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General E46 Forum
This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW!

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Old 02-05-2013, 09:36 PM   #21
ryannel2003
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I can't answer that question as I don't want to give you bad info. I'd do a little bit of research before doing it myself though.
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Old 02-05-2013, 10:07 PM   #22
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I can't answer that question as I don't want to give you bad info. I'd do a little bit of research before doing it myself though.
Google didnt help much. I took it on a drive after replacing. No issues! I hope it stays like this.
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Old 02-06-2013, 09:25 PM   #23
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Everything seems fine EXCEPT my idle. It will often bog. I tightened my plugs. Cleaned icv, throttle body, boots. Ideas?
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Old 02-06-2013, 09:42 PM   #24
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Idle problems typically point to vacuum leaks, which means anything connected between the MAF and the cylinder head. That's a lot of ground to cover on these cars. Jfoj has the best thread on this, and I know you've seen it. Have you looked at everything he covers? The fact that your problem comes and goes can help you pinpoint it. Notice the conditions when it happens. Is the car warm or cold? Is the weather warm or cold? Does it only happen at idle? You get the picture. If you can correlate a situation that exists every time you have this problem, you are close to solving the problem.
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Old 02-06-2013, 10:06 PM   #25
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Idle problems typically point to vacuum leaks, which means anything connected between the MAF and the cylinder head. That's a lot of ground to cover on these cars. Jfoj has the best thread on this, and I know you've seen it. Have you looked at everything he covers? The fact that your problem comes and goes can help you pinpoint it. Notice the conditions when it happens. Is the car warm or cold? Is the weather warm or cold? Does it only happen at idle? You get the picture. If you can correlate a situation that exists every time you have this problem, you are close to solving the problem.
Makes me think of how bad my fuel pump may be. I have replaced my fuel filter already.
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Old 02-06-2013, 10:45 PM   #26
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EML CEL and DSC together makes me think it could be the throttle position sensor, which I believe is integrated into the throttle body for E46 non-Ms

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Old 02-07-2013, 08:03 AM   #27
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EML CEL and DSC together makes me think it could be the throttle position sensor, which I believe is integrated into the throttle body for E46 non-Ms
Switching my ripped o ring on my disa seemed to fix thy issue.
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Old 02-07-2013, 08:06 AM   #28
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The bogging occurs when the engine is warm.
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Old 02-07-2013, 08:10 AM   #29
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Switching my ripped o ring on my disa seemed to fix thy issue.
I think that might be a temporary fix though, as after cleaning my throttle body I put my DISA back in and cut the o-ring as well. All my car had after that was a check engine light but the car drove and performed normally.

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EML CEL and DSC together makes me think it could be the throttle position sensor, which I believe is integrated into the throttle body for E46 non-Ms
When my car was doing the same thing, this is what I was told. However I had success in cleaning my throttle body and the codes haven't come back for almost a year. Apparently throttle body issues are common on the 323's.
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Old 02-07-2013, 09:35 AM   #30
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I think that might be a temporary fix though, as after cleaning my throttle body I put my DISA back in and cut the o-ring as well. All my car had after that was a check engine light but the car drove and performed normally.



When my car was doing the same thing, this is what I was told. However I had success in cleaning my throttle body and the codes haven't come back for almost a year. Apparently throttle body issues are common on the 323's.
Maybe I'm not cleaning it right. How did you clean yours?
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Old 02-07-2013, 09:41 AM   #31
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Exactly what I am experiencing. Do you know if seafoam is safe to clean electrical connections? It looks like my connection and input on my disa valve is Brown inside.
Probably, but you should use electrical contact cleaner or MAF cleaner or brake cleaner. Any of those will work. You may have to scrub it with a small brush or cotton swabs.
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Old 02-07-2013, 03:26 PM   #32
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So after I replaced my O-ring, I completely forgot to plug in the small hose that plugs into the intake boot, and I just realized it today as I opened my hood while I was having a rough idle. I hope that may end this!
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Old 02-07-2013, 05:00 PM   #33
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So obviously the problem still hasn't Went away, no lights are coming up, but when I Idle, the RPMs jump down like they are being jerked. Does that sound anything similar to something I can fix?
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Old 02-08-2013, 09:26 PM   #34
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And of course my car decided to do the same thing it is been doing right as I passed a cop pulled over putting someone in handcuffs. How in their sing. I seriously don't know what else to do. I had to pull over and reset the engine like I normally do. And continue with my drive. I keep getting that the throttlebody's stuck, but if it was really stuck, my car would be doing this way more often than so many miles every time I clean it.
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Old 02-08-2013, 09:33 PM   #35
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Did you replace your lower intake boot recently??

If so, pull the upper boot off and look down inside the lower boot with a flashlight and make sure the lower flap in the lower intake boot did not get caught and is inside the throttle body.

Also you should be able to turn off and restart your car while rolling.

If an automatic, just put the trans in neutral, the the engine off, then restart.

If a manual, do the same but have the clutch pushed in.
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Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

Fuel pump failures - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temps, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

E46/E39 GM5 Door Lock Info - www.bmwgm5.com

Lower hose fan switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299
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Old 02-08-2013, 10:42 PM   #36
trentcdrums
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Did you replace your lower intake boot recently??

If so, pull the upper boot off and look down inside the lower boot with a flashlight and make sure the lower flap in the lower intake boot did not get caught and is inside the throttle body.

Also you should be able to turn off and restart your car while rolling.

If an automatic, just put the trans in neutral, the the engine off, then restart.

If a manual, do the same but have the clutch pushed in.
Checked, it's good. And should call the dealership tomorrow... This is getting old.
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Old 02-13-2013, 10:26 PM   #37
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Interesting news. I decided to hook my scan tool to the car under the engine. I got more codes. P1510, P0101, and P1770. It looks as if my computers are noncooperating right. Obviously this must mean that there is something wrong with the wiring. So I took time to use electrical cleaner on my ICV, and mass airflow sensor. The reason why I am checking these codes again is because the car decided to do the same thing it has been doing again tonight. After over 500 miles of it's being cooperative. I just read another thread on someone else getting similar codes to this, and it was due to a faulty ICV, so I may go ahead and buy a recycled wine and try it out if this problem comes back again after this Because that individual with the problems I am having had no other issues after he had the dealership changes ICV, of course I will change my own though.
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Old 02-14-2013, 04:29 AM   #38
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If your car has the 20 pin round under hood connector, it has to have the top cap in place for the under dash 16 pin connector to read DME codes.

There is a shorting jumping in the under hood connector that passes the DME signals to the under dash connector. Make sure the jumpers in the under hood cap are not damaged.
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Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

Fuel pump failures - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temps, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

E46/E39 GM5 Door Lock Info - www.bmwgm5.com

Lower hose fan switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299
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Old 02-14-2013, 05:16 AM   #39
mizter_pino
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hello trentcdrums

i made a review a while ago.
please read it, hopefully it will wel you if it matches your problems.

hope hearing frm you

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...014&highlight=
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Old 02-14-2013, 05:53 AM   #40
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The title states it. I have cleaned my throttle body, ICV, replaced intake boots and cleaned, changed spark plugs. The dealership said the reason this was last time was because I had a bad valve cover. So I spent $500 on that replacement and it was great for months. Now it's doing it again.

I am drumming a huge youth retreat 2 hours away and had to pull over "12" times because the car wouldn't let me go over 45 mph! So I turn the car off and on again. The cel stays on but the eml and traction lights are off. Every stop sign I approach, the lights comes back!

I know there are multiple threads on this. But I am wondering if maybe y throttle body is done for or my icv.

Here are the codes.
P1510 -ICV STUVK
So searching your other codes...1770 came up as a clutch solenoid issue somewhere online Not sure that's the same code for us or not.

Also...for grins, check your battery voltage both with car off and on. When I drove my car with a bad battery for about 30 miles, the first lights I had were the one's you had. I'm wondering if you're just suffering from running on a battery just on the edge of totally bad...which you could do for a while. But, if that while was too long, eventually the alt would wear down too. Easy to check...and check the cables too.

And, if you search for me and "tampa bay" you might find my post about my icv cleaning approach...which basically was to clean like a freak from every possible angle and a can and a half of TB cleaner.

And I replaced icv grommet, tb gasket too.

GL...hth
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