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Suspension & Braking Forum by BimmerWorld
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Old 02-07-2013, 09:41 PM   #1
mynewe45ride
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Help with strut install

I am installing koni orange WITH H&r springs. How tight should the top nut be? I tried as much as i can by holding the nut via socket & vice grip and using a hex key with pliers. I still some gap at the bottom of top plate & shaft where there is 45 deg slope. I am attaching pics. One side is slant so i know i got to redo to align. The nut is definately pita. Koni uses 22 mm nut as compared to 21mm stock.

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Old 02-07-2013, 09:44 PM   #2
mynewe45ride
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More pic as bimmer app keeps crashing on my droid. Its not allowing me to upload more than 1 pic.

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Dec 2011 - window regulator, vcg, vanos seals, fuel filter, PS hoses+resorvoir, water pump, wp pulley, belts, thermostat, spark plugs, springs, FCAB & RCAB
Aug 2012 - Driver & Passenger Seat Belt Tensioner to fix Airbag light
Dec 2013 - Rear Diff & subframe bushing, Shocks & Struts, Wheels
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Old 02-07-2013, 09:46 PM   #3
mynewe45ride
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Top view. Top of shaft is flush with top nut.

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My ride - 99/328i, Manual
DIY courtesy to this forum
Dec 2011 - window regulator, vcg, vanos seals, fuel filter, PS hoses+resorvoir, water pump, wp pulley, belts, thermostat, spark plugs, springs, FCAB & RCAB
Aug 2012 - Driver & Passenger Seat Belt Tensioner to fix Airbag light
Dec 2013 - Rear Diff & subframe bushing, Shocks & Struts, Wheels
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Old 02-07-2013, 10:02 PM   #4
///MPR77
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You want it pretty tight.

Do what you can while its on the ground, and finish tightening after its all back togehter.

Once installed:

Use an Allen through the Socket, and a clamp on the socket, and vise grips on the Allen, and tighten.

GL.
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Last edited by ///MPR77; 02-07-2013 at 10:03 PM.
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Old 02-07-2013, 10:05 PM   #5
bernie21614
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Doesn't look right, there should be about 3 or 4 threads on top of the nut after its tight, you need to keep the spring compressed while you tighten that top nut.
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Old 02-07-2013, 10:55 PM   #6
pleiades
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ///MPR77 View Post
You want it pretty tight.

Do what you can while its on the ground, and finish tightening after its all back togehter.

Once installed:

Use an Allen through the Socket, and a clamp on the socket, and vise grips on the Allen, and tighten.

GL.
+1. The nut should tighten properly once you have the strut assembly installed and the car on the ground.

If getting a 22 mm socket in there is the problem, Harbor Freight sells a 22 mm (7/8-inch) O2 sensor socket for a few bucks that you can sand down and fit in there quite well while counterholding with an allen key through the center.
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Old 02-07-2013, 11:20 PM   #7
hanna
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I used an impact wrench with a regular (non impact, thinner) 22 mm socket. It's the easiest way, no need for vice grips,etc..

Last edited by hanna; 02-07-2013 at 11:22 PM.
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Old 02-07-2013, 11:24 PM   #8
mynewe45ride
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Txs for the tips. I got it tight by duck taping a 40 coarse sandpaper on the 22mm deep socket. Then used a c-clamp to tighten it. I got 3 to 4 threads on the top and bottom slope fits tightly. I will check it once i bring her to ground.

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My ride - 99/328i, Manual
DIY courtesy to this forum
Dec 2011 - window regulator, vcg, vanos seals, fuel filter, PS hoses+resorvoir, water pump, wp pulley, belts, thermostat, spark plugs, springs, FCAB & RCAB
Aug 2012 - Driver & Passenger Seat Belt Tensioner to fix Airbag light
Dec 2013 - Rear Diff & subframe bushing, Shocks & Struts, Wheels
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Old 02-07-2013, 11:26 PM   #9
mynewe45ride
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Btw, still used a hex key with pliers to tighten it holding the c clamp. One tip that helped was to hold the strut mount instead of c-clamp when tightening with hex key.

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My ride - 99/328i, Manual
DIY courtesy to this forum
Dec 2011 - window regulator, vcg, vanos seals, fuel filter, PS hoses+resorvoir, water pump, wp pulley, belts, thermostat, spark plugs, springs, FCAB & RCAB
Aug 2012 - Driver & Passenger Seat Belt Tensioner to fix Airbag light
Dec 2013 - Rear Diff & subframe bushing, Shocks & Struts, Wheels
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Old 02-07-2013, 11:27 PM   #10
mynewe45ride
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Final pic from the bottom.

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My ride - 99/328i, Manual
DIY courtesy to this forum
Dec 2011 - window regulator, vcg, vanos seals, fuel filter, PS hoses+resorvoir, water pump, wp pulley, belts, thermostat, spark plugs, springs, FCAB & RCAB
Aug 2012 - Driver & Passenger Seat Belt Tensioner to fix Airbag light
Dec 2013 - Rear Diff & subframe bushing, Shocks & Struts, Wheels
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Old 02-07-2013, 11:29 PM   #11
pleiades
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hanna View Post
I used an impact wrench with a regular (non impact, thinner) 22 mm socket. It's the easiest way, no need for vice grips,etc..
It's also the way that strut installation guides typically warn against using to tighten the upper strut nut.
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Old 02-07-2013, 11:31 PM   #12
///MPR77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pleiades View Post
It's also the way that strut installation guides typically warn against using to tighten the upper strut nut.
Exactly.

Glad it worked out OP.
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Old 02-07-2013, 11:33 PM   #13
fth001
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Or you could spend $30 and save you alot of problems by buying a pass-thru socket set.
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Old 02-08-2013, 08:04 PM   #14
genuity
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I am surprised the inverted hex in the center threaded rod of the strut did not strip before you hit torque spec. If anyone ever has Bilsteins and does this, it will surely strip. I wasted all this money getting special sockets and what not to only have it still strip. Ask me how I know Just save yourself some time and impact it on. Meyle end links also uses this retarded design.
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Old 02-09-2013, 06:45 PM   #15
hanna
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Yeah, impact works perfect, just do not hammer on it for 5 minutes, zip it and done
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