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Go Back   E46Fanatics > Tuning & Tech > DIY: Do It Yourself

DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 02-26-2012, 10:54 PM   #281
DJ Mabe
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I finally got it right after posting this thread. I did use a pickle fork and beat the hell out of it and the joint finally let go. I got the car on the road and now it's making an awful clunking noise in the front. I just replaced the rear shocks, shock mounts, springs, front struts, springs, CA's and CAB's. The car didn't really have any major noises before the work so i'm not sure what to check. Everything seems tight and proper but the car sounds like something is really loose. Any ideas what i should check or what it could be?
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Old 02-27-2012, 06:18 AM   #282
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Possible

In reading your post I don't see:
"Sway Bar Links" which is also a clunk maker
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Old 02-27-2012, 12:11 PM   #283
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In trouble shooting the last thing or things you did are the most likely causes of the problem. If we were there we'd just have to carefully go over all that you have just done.
And then throw in anything else that may cause clunking.
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Old 04-01-2012, 09:14 PM   #284
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stinger9 View Post
In trouble shooting the last thing or things you did are the most likely causes of the problem. If we were there we'd just have to carefully go over all that you have just done.
And then throw in anything else that may cause clunking.
Stinger, will be doing my LCABs soon, read the last few posts, not all 280, how long did it take you to do LCABs?
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Old 04-01-2012, 10:19 PM   #285
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Stinger, will be doing my LCABs soon, read the last few posts, not all 280, how long did it take you to do LCABs?
In my car I didn't have to take off the reinforcing plate. Took time to lift car up on jackstands and I did CA's with new FSD's in the struts all in the same project. Threw in reinforcing plates too. Did over two days.
Estimate if I just did the CAB's would have been 3-4 hrs if I'd been able to get the old CAB's off of the CA's easily. I work slo.
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Old 04-02-2012, 06:01 AM   #286
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Stinger, will be doing my LCABs soon, read the last few posts, not all 280, how long did it take you to do LCABs?
Did mine over the weekend. Front arms and CABs. About 5 hours total. Most of that being the arms.

Last edited by ELCID86; 04-02-2012 at 06:03 AM.
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Old 05-26-2012, 06:55 PM   #287
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I did CABs using Lemforder bushings today. Biggest challenge for me was getting my car up on stands as I've never used a floor jack or jack stands before. All went well there and doing the CABs was really pretty easy. Most helpful tips for me were:

Using a really large C clamp to get the old bushing off the arm. Took about 10 minutes or so slow but steady on each side.

Turning the steering wheel to the passenger side when I installed the driver side replacement bushing really helped get the new bushing lined up with the bolt holes.

My old bolts didn't look so great (had corrosion) so I'd recommend you get new bolts for the installation. (I have a 1999 323i with 150,000 and the CABs have been replaced at least once before.) I cleaned mine up and used blue loctite but I'd feel better if I had new bolts in. The bolt size is something you can easily get at Home Depot but the original bolt comes with an integrated washer that I wasn't able to remove so I just reused the old bolts.

Very gratifying to take that test drive. The steering wheel shimmy I was having when I brake on a downhill is gone and the car is handling better - tighter.
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Old 05-26-2012, 09:34 PM   #288
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My old bolts didn't look so great (had corrosion) so I'd recommend you get new bolts for the installation. (I have a 1999 323i with 150,000 and the CABs have been replaced at least once before.) I cleaned mine up and used blue loctite but I'd feel better if I had new bolts in. The bolt size is something you can easily get at Home Depot but the original bolt comes with an integrated washer that I wasn't able to remove so I just reused the old bolts.
Never get bolts from Home Depot or anyone similar for your car. There is a huge difference in the bolt grade you get there. I've had their chinese crap bolts shear the head off when trying to tighten them.
Remember this is for a critical suspension mounting that would destroy control of your car if it broke.
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Old 05-29-2012, 12:36 AM   #289
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Thanks for the tip.

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Old 07-30-2012, 09:50 PM   #290
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going to be looking at this next weekend. thanks
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Old 02-10-2013, 10:05 PM   #291
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pretty straight forward, did this over the weekend. Went with the powerflex hoping to not mess with them again.

Ran into one issue and have to take it out to look at. The rear passenger side brace bolt went in by hand, did this with all 4, I had it hand tight. Torqued the front two bolts and the drivers side with no issues. Passenger side not sure if the bolt took a dump or maybe the prior owner or a tech over torqued it? I also had no issues taking the bolt out.
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Recent Maintenance: Spark Plugs/CCV/Expansion Tank/Radiator/Thermostat/Both Intake Boots/Air Filter/Cabin Filter/Valve Cover Gasket/Control Arm Bushings/All Pulleys/Hatch Shocks/Vanos Oil Line/Fuel Pump/Fuel Pressure Regulator/Rear Rotors & Pads/Belts/Water Hoses/Front End Links/Front Sway Bar Bushings/Alternator/Power Steering Hoses/Power Steering Reservoir.
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Old 02-10-2013, 11:05 PM   #292
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Gotta do these again next week

So far my OE lasted about 40k, and ECS branded poly lasted about 55k. Going to try Meyle next.
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Old 02-11-2013, 10:22 AM   #293
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^Well I gave the powerflex a shot and I was impressed with my ride this am, especially given the crappy roads in the winter months in Chicago. No rattling, jarring, noises, ect. I actually only had one bad but decided to replace both since I didn't know when either was last replaced from the prior owner. What I have read is these last much longer then anything else and offer the closest to the OEM bushings. If I recall they are only 30% stiffer? Anyway worth giving a try if your looking to try something different.
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Old 02-11-2013, 10:40 AM   #294
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Had Poly's on for 40K miles so far and haven't begun to show any wear.
Dealer saw them on my car, and said "smart thing to put these on so you won't have to replace them so frequently".
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Old 04-15-2013, 04:54 PM   #295
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Has anyone experienced problems after using just soap with no water to slide on the FCABs? Liquid soap seems to stay greasy when it dries, so I'm worried that the bushings might slide around and not seat right.
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Old 04-15-2013, 05:06 PM   #296
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Has anyone experienced problems after using just soap with no water to slide on the FCABs? Liquid soap seems to stay greasy when it dries, so I'm worried that the bushings might slide around and not seat right.
As per TIS instructions, that's why we use a very dilute soap solution. Full strength is ill-advised.
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Old 04-15-2013, 05:22 PM   #297
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As per TIS instructions, that's why we use a very dilute soap solution. Full strength is ill-advised.
I first tried a soap & water mixture and the FCABs were impossible to push on by hand with the control arms still on the car, so I ended up using 100% soap. Many DIY video's and people in this thread used just soap and even grease. I'm wondering if they ever had problems afterwards.
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Old 04-15-2013, 05:29 PM   #298
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nope
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Old 04-15-2013, 06:23 PM   #299
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I'm wondering if they ever had problems afterwards.
Good question.
BMW makes it seem like it would be dangerous to do it the wrong way.
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Old 04-27-2013, 12:04 AM   #300
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Front Control arm bushings install (Pictures/Instructions)

TIS does ask for a 20:1 mixture of water to soap.

I just replaced my FCABs with Meyle HDs and I went with the full strength soap. It worked well for my install.

If there is some concern about using full strength soap I will just take my hose to the FCABs tomorrow and dilute that soap.


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