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Go Back   E46Fanatics > Tuning & Tech > Suspension & Braking

Suspension & Braking
Have some questions about suspension or brake setups for your E46 BMW? Get all your answers here!

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Old 02-12-2013, 11:50 AM   #1
Br0k3nLiNk
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Suspension/steering issue's after breaking wishbone

Hi all been looking at this site for a while at work, but could never register because of filters and forget when i get home Also never had a need to have an account as up until recently its been all smooth sailing with my BMW's....

Basically i had a nice incident recently that caused me to snap my passenger side Wishbone, avoided someone overtaking and hit a real high curb and apprently it doesnt like that too much! The end bolt that connects the wishbone to the hub snapped, not the wishbone, which i found odd as they are only made out of aluminum.

Anyway - replaced the wishbone and trackrod as that was also mangled. Roll bar and drop links look ok, so left it as just that. Suspension its self doesnt seem to have taken any damage, nor did the wheel bearing (have done about 500 miles since and it seems ok) Now the car has terrible play in the steering, tracking is all done and squared but i can turn the wheel left to right about an inch each way and it will not change the course of the car. Also on road where the camber is off, it will lean off that way without the wheel moving. What is the main thing to check in this instance, the steering column couplings? It passed its MOT without any advisories or anything so I'm very confused.

Also to go with that, it now seems to sit high on the passanger side compared to the drivers side. I dont know if i am just noticing the height difference now because of the incident, or not. Could the roll bar being bent and the droplinks being a little funny cause issues with how the car sits? I know the droplinks/roll bar determine the arc at which the suspension can move or whatever.. so i thought maybe this would be the case. Can you think of anything i can check?

Thanks in advance, i just want my bimmer to feel happy/normal again

Last edited by Br0k3nLiNk; 02-12-2013 at 11:58 AM.
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Old 02-12-2013, 03:03 PM   #2
Minnoe07
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Did you get an alignment after you replaced all the parts?
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Old 02-13-2013, 06:04 AM   #3
Br0k3nLiNk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Br0k3nLiNk View Post
tracking is all done and squared
Yea.. i got everything done with it, Tracking/alignment and then also the camber of all 4 corners. Had it done 3 times to make sure it cant be that, had to pay twice thought
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Old 02-13-2013, 06:10 PM   #4
Dave1027
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Sounds like the steering rack got tweaked. Are you looking to fix this yourself? You can replace the rack with a rebuilt unit. That's not super hard ... if you are experienced mechanically.
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Old 02-14-2013, 01:00 PM   #5
Br0k3nLiNk
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Yea I am going to do the work myself as i did the rest. BMW charge so much and to be honest so do most other local people, my friend who used to do it is in hospital with leukemia... Do you recon then that it is more than likely the Steering rack as opposed to the joints on the steering column?

It still feels smooth all the time and never goes stiff etc. Just the wheels have a great amount of travel whilst holding the wheel still
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Old 02-14-2013, 03:36 PM   #6
330iPilot
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Check your steering coupler, it's part #2. It has a rubber disc in it that can get torn.



Last edited by 330iPilot; 02-14-2013 at 03:37 PM.
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Old 02-15-2013, 06:04 AM   #7
Br0k3nLiNk
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Many thanks for the image, i shall check after work today.

On that image there looks to be another couple.. Number 5? Would this be able to have play too? In a way to doesnt look as if it would be able to move too much, but i have read that people have to replace both number 5 and 2
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Old 02-15-2013, 08:26 AM   #8
330iPilot
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You're looking at part #4 I think that is for the Xi models. Part #5 is the bolt that holds it on. If you don't have all wheel drive you'll have part #2.

Last edited by 330iPilot; 02-15-2013 at 08:28 AM.
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Old 02-15-2013, 10:48 AM   #9
Br0k3nLiNk
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OK - only 30 minutes till I can check... I hope its this as I think I can get the part cheaper than a refurbed rack.


PS. That RealOEM.com site is so useful! Now rather than trying to explain an item to someone I can just link a picture. If there was a +Rep thing on here you would have earned my rep.. Thanks

Last edited by Br0k3nLiNk; 02-15-2013 at 10:53 AM.
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Old 02-15-2013, 01:53 PM   #10
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Don't just start throwing parts at it. Have a friend move the steering wheel and wheels and you get down there with your hands and eyes to determine exactly where the looseness is. In my case the guibo was fine but the rack and pinion had excess slack.
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Old 02-16-2013, 08:35 AM   #11
Br0k3nLiNk
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Ok well I checked mine and all the play seems to come from below that part. Either rack or pinion then I guess.. I need to get under the car and have a look too though as its hard to see anything lower than that part.

I've got to bleed the brakes at some point so I suppose ill just raise the whole car and take a peek.

Would a video of the movement make it easier for you guys to tell me which part is the culprit? Thanks again
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Old 02-16-2013, 10:40 AM   #12
Dave1027
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Those you tubes are not good enough resolution to make a confident judgement with. It's best to put your hands on those things so you can feel the small movements. If you feel movement on the input shaft but no movement at the tie rods then that would confirm the rack as the source of the looseness. If you feel movement on the tie rods but the wheels don't move then the tie rods are shot. If you have movement on the steering wheel but no movement on the input shaft then it's the guibo.

Last edited by Dave1027; 02-16-2013 at 10:42 AM.
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Old 02-19-2013, 12:14 PM   #13
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Here's an update on this topic.

I had my rack lowered yesterday to more thoroughly inspect it. Turns out that it does in fact look like I'm getting more play from the guibo than anything else. I removed the guibo for closer inspection. There is nothing inherently wrong with the rubber material other than it has worn and loosened around the four rivets. It was a simple task to hammer those rivets tighter. The entire guibo is now tighter than a brand new one. Saved $50.
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Old 02-19-2013, 03:34 PM   #14
Br0k3nLiNk
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So if i have play in it i can just hammer it together? Hmm lol sounds worth a try tbh.

I need to have my bonnet resprayed so at the moment not got a lot of time with the car - think im without it for a week But will try and sort my steering then and shall post what happens
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Old 03-29-2013, 02:33 PM   #15
Br0k3nLiNk
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Ergh it's been a horrible few weeks, not managed to have much free time to do my steering. Was going to do it yesterday and my disc brake sensor came on so instead I replaced all corners.

I did however manage to have a look under the car and its defo the swivel joint (guibo) causing all the play and I already have the bits to do it all.

My question is how do I get the joint out, some people say undo the two Bolts attaching it to the upper joint and the steering rack and then you can knock it out?! I'm not sure how that works as its on a spline each end. The part I am replacing is 32306764007, sorry I would link to realoem picture but my phone won't..

Any help would be appreciated as I am planning to do this on Monday!

Happy Easter!!
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Old 03-29-2013, 02:44 PM   #16
Dave1027
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On mine the upper part which extends into the guibo was telescopic and pushes up and swings out of the way allowing easy removal. I only had splines on the rack pinion shaft. The upper steering shaft is oval shaped and fits only one way into the guibo. This is actually a very simple job.

BTW, I did not replace my guibo. I hammered the rivots tight and it's been perfect ever since and saved me $50 and the wait for the part.
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Old 03-30-2013, 04:39 AM   #17
Br0k3nLiNk
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Yea i bought a new one because i just want to get it sorted ASAP. Only cos about 55 which isnt too bad.

I assume from the image below you have parts 1 and 2? I have parts 3 and 4 so when that is fixed in place it doesnt look as if you will be able to remove it without lowering the rack etc.



Its annoying this is like the only DIY you cant find online, and as much as i dont mind taking lots apart i just dont have to time to fart about with it all If it is just a simple case of undoing the two bolts then knocking it off then cool ill do it now.

If anyone has done this with the same stytle steering column i would like to know, please
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Old 03-30-2013, 06:13 PM   #18
Br0k3nLiNk
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Changed it, turns out just undoing the two bolts and then knocking it up allows it out. The steering column from the steering wheel can move in and out so as to give you space.

Drive is much better, however there is still a bit of 'wander' when driving. Dependant on camber of the road etc but I am sure it was never like this.

It also seems the steering wheel is straight, which is good. However for minor left hand turns I have to turn the wheel anti clockwise slightly more than I would clockwise to go right... Little confusing.

Last edited by Br0k3nLiNk; 03-30-2013 at 06:13 PM.
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