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Old 02-20-2013, 03:25 PM   #1021
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Just replaced my cracked Expansion tank and AT coolant thermostat at 146K, originals were still on. Replaced all with genuine parts, drained and refilled BMW blue coolant. See pictures ..... Cracked ET and broken Thermostat !!!
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Old 02-20-2013, 03:52 PM   #1022
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Replacing my ET mounting plate today.

I seems it is causing my upper radiator hose to bend right at the connector, making a tiny gap for coolant to escape.
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I pulled everything apart, and reassembled, with no luck.
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Old 02-20-2013, 03:54 PM   #1023
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Originally Posted by ///MPR77 View Post
Replacing my ET mounting plate today.

I seems it is causing my upper radiator hose to bend right at the connector, making a tiny gap for coolant to escape.
Attachment 491636

I pulled everything apart, and reassembled, with no luck.
you're leaking? what brand hose/tank? so you're saying the seal has a gap in it or something? that's strange. i'll help you look at it.
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Old 02-20-2013, 04:06 PM   #1024
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The hoses are genuine BMW, and yeah I had a small leak from the mounting plate.
Last night I pulled the ET completely out, and reinstalled it, which fixed the bottom leak, but created a leak at the top.

The ET is fully seated, with the little retainer clip on the side of the ET slid into it place.

I feel like the whole ET and assembly needs to turn/rotate just a tad for the hose to sit flush.


I have a 100,000 miles on the current mounting plate, and aside from the hard pipe everything else has been replaced, a few months ago.
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Old 02-21-2013, 12:00 PM   #1025
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Originally Posted by ///MPR77 View Post
The hoses are genuine BMW, and yeah I had a small leak from the mounting plate.
Last night I pulled the ET completely out, and reinstalled it, which fixed the bottom leak, but created a leak at the top.

The ET is fully seated, with the little retainer clip on the side of the ET slid into it place.

I feel like the whole ET and assembly needs to turn/rotate just a tad for the hose to sit flush.


I have a 100,000 miles on the current mounting plate, and aside from the hard pipe everything else has been replaced, a few months ago.
didn't know the mounting plates had these kinds of problems. is yours tweaked in any way that you know of? previously damaged? i'm sure you know this but just in case, is the ET hooked into the et bracket? the little hook facing the front of the car. kind of curious how your setup looks. keep us updated on this
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Old 02-21-2013, 01:58 PM   #1026
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The mounting plate was not the problem.

Happy to have replaced it though, as I know for a fact there was 170k miles on it.

Yes, aside from the hoses, the ET is secured onto the bracket by the hook, and the actual hard connections at the bottom (slide clip pushed in place.)

I mentioned replacing everything, though I shouldn't have, because the radiator has about 100k on it, and I am starting to wonder if, with all the hard canyon driving; maybe knocked it loose, or something.

I might to take you up on your offer, and cruise over sometime soon whenever you're available.
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Old 02-21-2013, 02:24 PM   #1027
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Originally Posted by ///MPR77 View Post
The mounting plate was not the problem.

Happy to have replaced it though, as I know for a fact there was 170k miles on it.

Yes, aside from the hoses, the ET is secured onto the bracket by the hook, and the actual hard connections at the bottom (slide clip pushed in place.)

I mentioned replacing everything, though I shouldn't have, because the radiator has about 100k on it, and I am starting to wonder if, with all the hard canyon driving; maybe knocked it loose, or something.

I might to take you up on your offer, and cruise over sometime soon whenever you're available.
We might end up sitting on the ground indian style with a couple of magnifying glasses and cooling parts spread all over the floor. I'd be careful removing things though. the more you do, the weaker those o-rings will become
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Old 02-21-2013, 05:09 PM   #1028
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ///MPR77 View Post
Replacing my ET mounting plate today.

I seems it is causing my upper radiator hose to bend right at the connector, making a tiny gap for coolant to escape.
Attachment 491636

I pulled everything apart, and reassembled, with no luck.
I replaced my radiator two weekends ago and I ran into this same problem. Exact same. Ive replaced all cooling parts with OE expect the radiator (Behr) and thermostat (Behr). Seems to leak more with the engine running. Enough to spill off the tank and hit my belt causing a squeal!

Luckily, when I took everything apart and reassembled it had went away. Ive driven a little over 2 thousand miles since then and have not noticed it leaking anymore. Still do not feel comfortable with this since all I did was take the hose off and reconnect it. Keep me updated also please.
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Old 02-21-2013, 05:27 PM   #1029
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We might end up sitting on the ground indian style with a couple of magnifying glasses and cooling parts spread all over the floor. I'd be careful removing things though. the more you do, the weaker those o-rings will become
What O rings? :gulp: I don't recall any on the hoses, are they "built in"?

This has been really discouraging, as I am used to winning at the game of DIY, maybe not always first try, but this is the 3rd coolant overhaul I have done on this car, over the course of 160k, and 3rd time I have opened up the system in the last 4 days.




Quote:
Originally Posted by ClaytonL View Post
I replaced my radiator two weekends ago and I ran into this same problem. Exact same. Ive replaced all cooling parts with OE expect the radiator (Behr) and thermostat (Behr). Seems to leak more with the engine running. Enough to spill off the tank and hit my belt causing a squeal!

Luckily, when I took everything apart and reassembled it had went away. Ive driven a little over 2 thousand miles since then and have not noticed it leaking anymore. Still do not feel comfortable with this since all I did was take the hose off and reconnect it. Keep me updated also please.
When you say you took everything apart, did you to take out the radiator? I am tempted to try another upper hose, before the radiator.


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Old 02-21-2013, 05:37 PM   #1030
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What O rings? :gulp: I don't recall any on the hoses, are they "built in"?
Maybe that could be your problem. Yes, there are O-rings built into the hose ends. Look internally and you'll see them in there.
Problem is if you didn't know they were in there, then you didn't lube them with O-ring lube. Makes things much more foolproof.
Bentley says to lube the rings with coolant, but I'm not a fan of that. Much prefer that I've used silicone O-ring lube and it makes the hoses go on very smoothly and insures no twisting or binding which can easily produce small leaks.

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Old 02-21-2013, 05:48 PM   #1031
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Maybe that could be your problem. Yes, there are O-rings built into the hose ends. Look internally and you'll see them in there.
Problem is if you didn't know they were in there, then you didn't lube them with O-ring lube. Makes things much more foolproof.
Bentley says to lube the rings with coolant, but I'm not a fan of that. Much prefer that I've used silicone O-ring lube and it makes the hoses go on very smoothly and insures no twisting or binding which can easily produce small leaks.
I bet that is what its is. I for sure rubbed a liberal amount of coolant in every connection, but that apparently doesn't preclude the ring from binding up.

Going to look at it right now.

Thanks

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Old 02-21-2013, 06:00 PM   #1032
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Oh no, I did not take the radiator out again. The radiator neck was perfect looking before I installed it (no scratches from production). I meant that I took the upper hose completely off, lubed the inside of the hose's o-rings with straight coolant again, and then re-connected. Pressed the hose on past the normal position point, then seated the metal clip and wiggled the connection until the clip caught. Hard to explain in text but my thought was I just didn't have the hose on enough even though the metal clip was fully seated.
Try lifting the metal clip, and pressing the hose on more (toward the headlight). This is what fixed my leak and why I still do not trust the outcome. Maybe the o-rings inside the BMW hose is flattened after a year of service.
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Old 02-21-2013, 06:39 PM   #1033
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Here is what the O ring inside looks like inside...no binding.

I don't have any O Ring lube so I used a bunch of coolant , and quickly reassembled.

Results:
The leak is still there, but down to a tiny drip.
On my way home I will pick up some rubber lubricant.

I feel that with the lube it will slide onto the tapered connection just a tad more, and seal it up properly.

Thanks for the input guys.
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Old 02-21-2013, 07:37 PM   #1034
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Originally Posted by ///MPR77 View Post
Attachment 491800

Here is what the O ring inside looks like inside...no binding.

I don't have any O Ring lube so I used a bunch of coolant , and quickly reassembled.

Results:
The leak is still there, but down to a tiny drip.
On my way home I will pick up some rubber lubricant.

I feel that with the lube it will slide onto the tapered connection just a tad more, and seal it up properly.

Thanks for the input guys.
I had same problem with my upper hose. Turned out when you look into hose you could see the o-ring disappear from a 7 o'clock to 11 o'clock. Meaning it would not properly seat onto the radiator causing a leak in mine. At this point I questioned the design of these hoses but when I got a free replacement and installed it, everything has been fine.

Good luck with yours.
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Old 02-21-2013, 07:42 PM   #1035
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I had same problem with my upper hose. Turned out when you look into hose you could see the o-ring disappear from a 7 o'clock to 11 o'clock. Meaning it would not properly seat onto the radiator causing a leak in mine. At this point I questioned the design of these hoses but when I got a free replacement and installed it, everything has been fine.

Good luck with yours.
Thanks man...in my case, I will take the blame, not fault the design.

Glad your replacement worked out for you.
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Old 02-22-2013, 12:24 AM   #1036
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Yes, sir. Every connection that holds water/coolant must be sealed with an o-ring or other rubber seal. that goes for the t-stat, hoses, water pump, hard pipes, etc etc. as for hoses, honestly, i'd just spent the $15 and replace that upper hose. at this point, there's too much riding on doubt/luck to hope things work again. i'd also carefully clean where the hose connects to. almost on an microscopic level.
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Old 02-22-2013, 01:04 AM   #1037
///MPR77
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Yes, sir. Every connection that holds water/coolant must be sealed with an o-ring or other rubber seal. that goes for the t-stat, hoses, water pump, hard pipes, etc etc. as for hoses, honestly, i'd just spent the $15 and replace that upper hose. at this point, there's too much riding on doubt/luck to hope things work again. i'd also carefully clean where the hose connects to. almost on an microscopic level.
Yeah it simply needed a bit more lubrication to fully seat.
If it acts up again, then I will replace it.

When you mentioned O Rings, I freaked out; I was imagining "separate part number" O rings that required installation...lol.
This makes me feel like I have just been lucky the past couple of overhauls. A sort of humble pie I guess, but hell I have those moments in the studio, and I have been recording for 15 years.

Thanks again guys!




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Old 02-22-2013, 05:58 PM   #1038
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Hi, new to the forums! My family's had a 2002 325xi and the water pump just blew, along with an exploding fan rupturing the shroud and the radiator @ 117k km's (72k miles)

I've bought:
- Behr autotrans rad
- 3 o-rings for the rad as recommended by autohausaz
- Saleri W/P
- VictorReinz w/p gasket
- OEM fan shroud
- Uro fan blade

After having lurked around the forums, I'm still having difficulty understanding why my mechanic was mentioning that there's a part that almost always break when taking it out, and that I would most likely need to spring for a $115 oil cooler thermostat. I had a look at this part and it seems to be a relatively easy part to replace.

- Was he talking about the expansion tank mounting plate? (i've read various comments about this part being terrible to come off)
- Am I missing any parts? Ideally I would have replaced the thermostat, accessory belt, upper/lower hoses, exp tank, but funds do not allow for that so I was going to hold off on those pieces until late spring/early summer.

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Old 02-22-2013, 06:03 PM   #1039
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was talking about the auto trans fluid thermostat. he is correct; breaks every time someone tries to remove it.

avoid URO parts of all kinds whenever possible. bad feedback.

Never ever buy a VR VCG as they leak at a very high rate. That makes them suspicious for all their other parts now.

Are you sure your new WP does not come with a new gasket? I thought most do.

what is the condition/age of your tensioner and idler pulleys?

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Old 02-22-2013, 07:07 PM   #1040
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After having lurked around the forums, I'm still having difficulty understanding why my mechanic was mentioning that there's a part that almost always break when taking it out, and that I would most likely need to spring for a $115 oil cooler thermostat. I had a look at this part and it seems to be a relatively easy part to replace.


Thanks guys!
He's correct about the transmission oil thermostat cooler breaking 90% of the time while removing the expansion tank, mine broke see picture ....
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