VGC and VANO

May do vanos bearings while your in there. I've heard on the 330 they are notorious to sound like a sewing machine. I'm deciding whether to do mine as I am doing all this if hit now

I'm only doing the vano seals. And yes the o-ring was compressed flat. I have just finished installing the seals and now waiting to the darkness to come to assemble everything back (it is scotching hot in the garage).

I heard the majority of vano rattle happened in ZHP, not the normal 330. Mine seems ok.

I have driven the car for a few days after the work. What I can say is, wow!

The vano seal did make a difference even on the first drive. I have always felt sluggish in D mode, but in S mode it is much better, so I always blame the transmission software. But after the new seal, even in D mode, it feels much more responsive and willing to rev. Even the sound is more ... solid is word I can think of. So now for daily drive D mode can also be enjoyable. That $60 is well worth it.

I have yet to compare fuel consumption. But from the instant readout on uphill drive, I can already notice slight drop in fuel comsumption.

No oil leak so far, finger crossed. I have yet to a long, hard drive to prove it.

Originally Posted by chillinhardinanE46

I think this might help.



http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=882732



as tech4tech mentioned. You might wanna do your seals as well.

http://www.beisansystems.com/procedu..._procedure.htm

Excellent reference thread!
Thanks

Thoughts on using the Dr. Vanos kit as apposed to the beisan systems setup? Only reason I ask about the Dr. Vanos is because it's a direct swap out part, not that the writeup looks tough, but less time consuming/and fear of breaking a seal/ring.

Originally Posted by Mulrich07

Thoughts on using the Dr. Vanos kit as apposed to the beisan systems setup? Only reason I ask about the Dr. Vanos is because it's a direct swap out part, not that the writeup looks tough, but less time consuming/and fear of breaking a seal/ring.

Of course it is better. It fixes both the seal and rattle. But for $400 that's a bit too costly. If money is not your concern then go for it.

In theory it's only $250. So I guess what it boils down to is my time worth the difference between the two systems after a core charge.

You can't tell if the vanos bearings are ok unless you test them. Put just the vanos piston on the car and lightly tighten down. My bearings didn't rattle. But there was so much play I brok down nd bought the kit. Lost 3 days of down time. No matter what. There will be more play than you like. They cost $65 plus the red vice inserts to clamp the piston in the vice.

They are notorious on several cars. Zhp and 330. Never usually on the 325.

I found that using a razor blade knife or anything for that matter to get the old hardened seals out takes patience and skill. Very easy to score the vanos piston and the red insert with the smaller o rings was worse. Dr vanos has that going for him.

Have steady hands and be very careful