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Go Back   E46Fanatics > E46 BMW > The Showroom

The Showroom
This is the place to show off your BMW to other members of the community. Post pictures and videos of your car and the modifications you have done to it. If you need a picture of something on a coupe, sedan, convertible or touring you will probably find it here!

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Old 02-22-2013, 07:26 PM   #21
JasonSmithed
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Got a few parts in..
New Bilstein Guibo with Directions for those that need it



Directions the second one down is English



EXHAUST REMOVAL



MAKE SURE TO MARK YOUR DRIVESHAFT I WASN'T SURE WHERE TO MARK IT SO I MADE SEVERAL...



PUT NEW CMB IN COMPARED TO OLD WORN ONE





INSTALLED
ITS BETTER TO TORQUE FROM THE OPPOSITE SIDE WITH NUTS OPEN FACING

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Old 02-23-2013, 02:21 AM   #22
Barbaros
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Brings me back the good old memories. Except you are kinda going with a different route. First time i am seeing an e36 steering wheel on an e46 and not feeling it but hey... your car your money.. Great work so far. Keep it up!
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Old 02-23-2013, 10:22 AM   #23
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I got it out of a wrecked e39 m5 every e36 I've seen has a different wheel without the buttons. Thanks though. It's different.
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Old 02-23-2013, 05:20 PM   #24
Barbaros
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonSmithed View Post
I got it out of a wrecked e39 m5 every e36 I've seen has a different wheel without the buttons. Thanks though. It's different.
sorry you are right.. it is an m5 steering wheel.
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Old 02-24-2013, 07:06 PM   #25
JasonSmithed
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with new oem grilles black and chrome



STARTED TO PUT IN MY NEW THERMOSTAT MINE WAS STUCK OPEN.



BOUGHT A NEW EXPANSION TANK



NEW HOSES FOR THE RETURN



NOTICED WHERE MY PROBLEM STARTED



HAD TO BUY A NEW LOWER RADIATOR HOSE FROM ADVANCED $10 HAD TO REUSE CONNECTORS



NEW THERMOSTAT AND HOSES INSTALLED



BACK TO NORMAL

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Old 02-26-2013, 11:08 AM   #26
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I'm getting an error on PA SOFT1.4 Fuel suction Jet pump? what is this? is it near the intake system?
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Old 03-07-2013, 11:52 PM   #27
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So I have my exhaust system completely off from the cats. My car has been on ramps waiting for BMW of S. Atlanta to ship gaskets I have ordered for the new headers. Also I found a pretty decent 3.46 I am going to be putting in myself. It's my first time doing the rear carrier/differential on a car, but it didn't seem too difficult once I was actually looking at what needed to be removed. I have the driveshaft removed at the moment because I was cheap and got a generic CSB/CMB. All while I'm commuting between work and on-campus. So, question... When I change the rear dif to the 3.46 from 3.07 do I need to go ahead and order a rear dif input flange and if so I would assume the flanges would be interchangeable between the two?
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Old 03-08-2013, 10:32 PM   #28
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OK so I spent most of the day driving back and forth from parts dealer to junk yard and back but I ended up getting a 3.46 with 120k miles. I started taking out my rear by myself taking several breaks it took me about three hours.. the worst part was having to go back and forth with the e-brake and putting the car into gear.. other than that i think I'm stopping by the stealership tomorrow and getting all new torx bolts for the drive shaft and the axels. hmmmm worst part was trying not to strip anything............... but on a lighter note. I'm waiting to get my headers in the mail should be here pretty soon. I would have taken pictures but I lost my cell phone about two days ago and dont have a digi. The flanges look the same btw so I'm just going to mount it because I'm sure they match..
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Old 03-08-2013, 10:51 PM   #29
braymond141
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Unless someone colored all the threads black, that's just a regular Sport E39 wheel, not an M5 wheel.



What the hell did you do here... That's an insane amount of gasket sealer. A complete mess and totally unnecessary.
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Old 03-08-2013, 11:38 PM   #30
JasonSmithed
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Lol yeah that had to be completely redone. I didn't know what I was doing. Anyway as for the wheel, I got it out of a 2000 m5 in 2001 they updated the m5 steering wheel to a 2 stage system and updated the design.
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Old 03-08-2013, 11:41 PM   #31
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If you're referring to the tri stitching I'm not sure and you may be right. If you go to autotrader and look at 2000 m5 within any distance range you can look for yourself there isnt a single m5 with that steering wheel with m tri-stitch. Maybe you're right though. Either way it is an upgrade and I'm not sure how the e39 sport wheel and m5 wheel differ. I know the e36 sport wheel doesn't have buttons for cruise or radio controls. Idk I'm still new to BMW cars so I'm sure you know what you're talking about.
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Old 03-11-2013, 10:54 PM   #32
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3. 46 diff swap

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Old 03-11-2013, 11:03 PM   #33
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This is the old one it was quite the pain by myself. This is the 3. 07 I'm deciding to hold onto for a while in case I decide to switch in the future. I have to say I love the gearing it feels like my grandmothers old e36 325I. Really snappy moves through the gears pretty quick but not that bad to where its annoying. It's how the gearing should have been.

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Old 03-17-2013, 12:09 AM   #34
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Ebay headers

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Old 03-21-2013, 12:07 AM   #35
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Well on my trip home from savannah I was going down the interstate and noticed my temperature gauge pegged all the way in the hot. I immediately turned the engine off and coasted to the side of the highway. when I tried to start it when it cooled completely off it wouldn't start.

My guess is that my waterpump failed while I was driving and I blew a head gasket. Anyway, my car is in Savannah, GA and I'm going to have to rent a uhaul to get it back home.

Once its back home I plan on disecting the motor completely taking the head off and inspecting it for warp/cracks. If it is damaged I may take a chance and have it machined. Otherwise I'll just do a motor swap. Either way it's a big headache.

I read this somewhere... and DMAX addressed one of my concerns.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmax View Post
Tim is the list owner, so he really can't give bad advice...me, on the other hand, I'm just a guy on the Internet and actually enjoy randomly guessing!

You don't have heat because the system wasn't bled properly...an air bubble is back there somewhere and preventing flow to the heater core...or worse, an air bubble caused the wp to cavitate, not pump coolant, and although your engine was getting hot, the wp wasn't pushing coolant to get to the temp sensor located on the lower radiator hose...and maybe the car shut itself off because of overheating...getting a 'fatal' reading from another temp sensor.

Actually, K, I don't think you should drive your car right now. I'm trying to formulate a theory of what's going on, and although it sounds like bleeding could fix you up, I do think you have a leak. That leak, if it did cause an air bubble to get to wp and cause cavitation, you'd have been overheating your engine but not knowing it. Were you hearing kind of nasty sounds from the engine before it stopped itself?

Had the temp gauge risen at all in the car or was there a red dot lit indicating overheating? Any warning lights on?

In listening to vid again, I wonder if I'm hearing a wp gone bad...the bearings don't seize often, but the impeller blades break. In your case, it might be spinning inside a dry chamber.

Don't drive your car. If your husband does most of the work on the car, I think this might be a good time to suggest he meets a guy named mango around these parts. The guy's a fruit, but has the market cornered on obsessing over his cooling system. He actually drinks coolant...though he does chase it with a beer as that is actually the proper antidote.

The simplest thing at this point is to make sure you have a working coolant system. You at least have a leak. You probably have a failed component like WP. You can buy an entire cooling system for $300 and there are diy vids here of shirtless fireman replacing the system...so you could do it yourself. On the other hand, you could spend about 3-4 hours reading cooling threads (use advanced/title search) and actually diagnose your issue and fix it. Read until you puke. It's not brain surgery, but there are a lot of details you need to know...and I don't know what you know.

My concern is that you had a leak, didn't have circulation, turning on the heater sucked coolant into heater core, out of engine, wp started to not pump, and you overheated...and maybe damaged your head gasket or cylinder head. I did it myself about 8 years ago.

Your starting point now is to follow bmw tis's method of bleeding exactly...pouring slowly...using only distilled water (because I'm ocd and most here are about that!). Mango has proper instructions. Don't follow my 'alternative instructions' as you should not be revving your car to 4K rpms for even 20 secs.

If you can fill us in on more of what happened, someone will make up other good stuff for you, I'm sure!

Oh, most important...forgot to mention this. You should do something very nice for your husband while going through your car's recovery. I won't mention anything specific...and I'll also mention that the cooling system is a known weak spot of this car of yours...so it's not his fault!
above it states that the car may not start due to a failed temperature sensor? I'm getting compression just from trying to turn the car over but I haven't further investigated anything. I was thinking the car wouldn't start either way if the head gasket were damaged.
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Old 03-27-2013, 01:55 AM   #36
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So a little update.. its 300 miles to savannah from my location and I have to get a trailer to bring her back. Since this happened during spring break vacation I'm having to work a lot this week to get funds to make another trip. Unfortunately my only option is a jacked up z71 tahoe on 35"s. So gas will be a biatch.

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