E46 BMW Social Directory E46 FAQ 3-Series Discussion Forums BMW Photo Gallery BMW 3-Series Technical Information E46 Fanatics - The Ultimate BMW Resource BMW Vendors General E46 Forum The Tire Rack's Tire Wheel Forum Forced Induction Forum The Off-Topic The E46 BMW Showroom For Sale, For Trade or Wanting to Buy

Welcome to the E46Fanatics forums. E46Fanatics is the premiere website for BMW 3 series owners around the world with interactive forums, a geographical enthusiast directory, photo galleries, and technical information for BMW enthusiasts.

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us.

Go Back   E46Fanatics > E46 BMW > General E46 Forum

General E46 Forum
This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Rate Thread Display Modes
Old 02-27-2013, 01:07 PM   #1
jsaklas
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Maryland
Posts: 38
My Ride: Chrysler PT Cruiser
Car hasn't run in 15 months Need advise to start it.

I've had a 323i in the garage for 15 months, during which time I have not started it. I rebuilt the front brakes and most all of the front suspension and power steering systems plus some other work and I now I want to see if I can start it.

I'm a novice (retired and the E46 is a retirement project) so please don't get too technical or ask me to take apart the engine, etc.

What advice do any of you have? Change spark plugs, put some oil in the cylinders (via the spark plug hole) etc.


js
jsaklas is offline   Reply With Quote
Ads by Google

Guests, get your FREE E46Fanatics.com membership to remove this ad.
Old 02-27-2013, 01:08 PM   #2
Mango
Over 15,000 visitors
 
Mango's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Southern California
Posts: 22,489
My Ride: M54B30
i would fill the oil filter housing with oil, let it sit a few minutes, put some fresh gas and start it up!
__________________
A lifetime free of problems if you follow my guides
Cooling | Maintenance | Suspension | Vacuum | Supreme Reliability | Details

OVER A MILLION VIEWS
Mango is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-27-2013, 01:28 PM   #3
Adionik
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: MURICA
Posts: 581
My Ride: Bavarian Panzer
You may need some starter fluid and the battery is likely toast. Also examine the tires from sitting that long as i'm sure they have flat spots.
Adionik is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-27-2013, 01:38 PM   #4
lcoleman
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: the barnyard
Posts: 2,458
My Ride: '79 Massey Ferguson
Might be worth disabling fuel (relay, pump fuse, etc) and cranking the engine over a few times to build pressure. The oil in the plug holes isn't a bad idea, but probably isn't necessary.Really, you should be fine with fresh gas.
__________________
lcoleman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-27-2013, 10:07 PM   #5
jsaklas
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Maryland
Posts: 38
My Ride: Chrysler PT Cruiser
Thanks for all the advice.

I bought, but haven't yet installed, a new battery, changed the oil and filter and after bleeding the brakes, I will take care of all your suggestions. Do you all have any hints on how best (and easiest way) to drain the tank? Since the battery is not hooked up the gas gauge can't tell me how much is in the tank.


js
jsaklas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-27-2013, 10:22 PM   #6
peytonracer4
:D
 
peytonracer4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Valparaiso, IN
Posts: 6,407
My Ride: '00 328i
There's a drain plug on (I think) the passengers side. Just remove that and it'll all come pouring out. Be ready with a few big oil pans to catch it. You might be able to gauge how much isin there by tapping it. Orby removing the fuel pump under the rear seat and sticking a ruler or something in there. Don't drop it though!
__________________
choose to click or forever hold your peace ;)
peytonracer4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-27-2013, 10:30 PM   #7
BMWCaptain
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: TEXAS - Where I give Real World advice and don't just criticize others. People here need to RESPECT other's opinions!
Posts: 1,601
My Ride: 03 325iT SportWagon
No don't make a mess by taking out the plug . Take the fuel pump out from the tank and pump it out with a simple fluid pump available at Harbor Freight or auto parts store. Your fuel pump is on the right side under the rear seat. Use a long screwdriver and a hammer to loosen the ring.
__________________
Founding Member of the Club of Dangerous Fanatics

Engine swap, HG, tranny swap, GM & ZF tranny rebuilds, shocks, struts, brakes, WPs, Thermostats, belts, tensioners, fuel pumps, radiators, window regs, hoses, PS pump, Spark Plugs, VCGs, coils, fuel filters, CVVs, VANOS seals, rack, LCABs, Exp. Tanks, OFHGs, RCABs, OP, boots, ABS, GUIDOs, starter, A/C, DISA, Diff, SAP

Ultra Premium Grand 10 Star+ Super Duper BMW-pedic Sport Plus +++
BMWCaptain is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-27-2013, 10:33 PM   #8
dslboomer
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Show-me state
Posts: 522
My Ride: 2001 BMW 330I
Quote:
Originally Posted by jsaklas View Post
Thanks for all the advice.

I bought, but haven't yet installed, a new battery, changed the oil and filter and after bleeding the brakes, I will take care of all your suggestions. Do you all have any hints on how best (and easiest way) to drain the tank? Since the battery is not hooked up the gas gauge can't tell me how much is in the tank.


js
I will not drain the gas tank before giving a try.
All late model cars have well sealed fuel system due to EPA mandate not like old 70s and 80s cars' fuel system.

Pull the all plug out - you may need new ones if they are old or may need to clean up.
Rent a compression gauge from an auto part store and do a compression check for all cylinders. Make sure to pull out the fuel pump relay fuse. It is #3 in the DME fuse carrier. See this guide.

http://www.chitownm.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4284

If they are below 120 psi, pour oil through spark plug holes and wet cylinder wall. You can read last portion of this thread for how much oil to use and how to proceed after adding oil.

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=969084

After that, put them all back together and give a try.
Good luck!

Last edited by dslboomer; 02-27-2013 at 10:35 PM.
dslboomer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-27-2013, 11:27 PM   #9
Mango
Over 15,000 visitors
 
Mango's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Southern California
Posts: 22,489
My Ride: M54B30
I think you're overthinking it OP. it'll start just fine and minimal wear will occur if you have good oil in there like Castrol 0W-30.

Maybe disable the ignition system (unplug all the coils) or unplug the fuel pump fuse and let the engine crank a few times to get the parts wet with oil. that's as far as i'd go. no ceremony needed. just dmax it and annoint your head with brake dust in the shape of a roundel and possibly a dab of ol' blue.
__________________
A lifetime free of problems if you follow my guides
Cooling | Maintenance | Suspension | Vacuum | Supreme Reliability | Details

OVER A MILLION VIEWS
Mango is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-28-2013, 09:47 AM   #10
sunsetcoast
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: SW Michigan
Posts: 802
My Ride: '99 323i & '00 323iT
Quote:
Originally Posted by E46Mango View Post
i would fill the oil filter housing with oil, let it sit a few minutes, put some fresh gas and start it up!
Filling the oil filter is a good place to start.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lcoleman View Post
Might be worth disabling fuel (relay, pump fuse, etc) and cranking the engine over a few times to build pressure. The oil in the plug holes isn't a bad idea, but probably isn't necessary.Really, you should be fine with fresh gas.
Disabling the fuel relay is another excellent idea. Then remove the plugs, Squirt about 2 tbs of oil in each cylinder. Cover the holes. Crank about 20 secs, 5 secs at a time. This lubricates the dry walls without a gas wash. Replace plugs (new, if needed, since you are already there). Replace relay. Turn the key. Don't be concerned about all the smoke coming out of the tailpipe.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dslboomer View Post
I will not drain the gas tank before giving a try.
All late model cars have well sealed fuel system due to EPA mandate not like old 70s and 80s cars' fuel system.
Agreed. If you used Stabil, 15 months is a little long, but should be OK. I've stored a car longer than that (unintentionally: job got in the way of my summer toy) and had no fuel-related problems.

You can always drain the tank, if necessary, but why go through the effort for what is unlikely to be a problem. Just drive gently on the first tank, and use Top Tier high detergent gas for the first few tanks.

Depending on what was done (and how long ago) before it was put away, I'd closely inspect rubber parts, at least belts and hoses. Doubly so if you live where ozone is a problem.

Tires may seem a bit flat-spotted, and may have become more than a bit low. With proper inflation and gentle driving, modern tires will be fine within 5~10 miles.

I also typically lubricate everything that I can find before I drive after winter storage.
sunsetcoast is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-03-2013, 11:07 AM   #11
jsaklas
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Maryland
Posts: 38
My Ride: Chrysler PT Cruiser
Thanks to all responders.

Before carrying out your suggestions, I thought I would try to find the fuel filter opening on top of the tank - I was thinking that changing the filter sounded like a good idea.

I removed the seat but I don't see the tank. Am I supposed to remove the rubber covering - see attached photos.

Lastly, in the attached photos there is a wire with a connector on the end that is not connected to anything - is this something I should be worried about.


Thanks again
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Rear Seat 1a.jpg
Views:	60
Size:	143.6 KB
ID:	493456   Click image for larger version

Name:	Rear Seat3a.jpg
Views:	57
Size:	130.8 KB
ID:	493457  
jsaklas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-03-2013, 11:34 AM   #12
dmax
Registered User
 
dmax's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: NJ
Posts: 22,788
My Ride: '99 328i 1.04646 mu
Under the seat is where the fuel pump is, not the filter...that's above a panel that's under your seat...under the car.

TL...dr...if you ever need to get to the fuel pump, that's where it is...rt side is pump, left side is sending unit.
__________________


Performing at the Comedy Cove--595 Morris Ave. Springfield NJ reservations 973 376-3840

A recent set

dmax on the radio every Wednesday 7-9 p.m. NYC time. Call in! (661) 449-9340 watsonnwatson.com
dmax is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-03-2013, 12:15 PM   #13
BMWCaptain
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: TEXAS - Where I give Real World advice and don't just criticize others. People here need to RESPECT other's opinions!
Posts: 1,601
My Ride: 03 325iT SportWagon
Fuel filter is under the car, by frame rail directly under driver door. Remove panel to access fuel filter.

I have no idea where it is for a PT Cruiser.
__________________
Founding Member of the Club of Dangerous Fanatics

Engine swap, HG, tranny swap, GM & ZF tranny rebuilds, shocks, struts, brakes, WPs, Thermostats, belts, tensioners, fuel pumps, radiators, window regs, hoses, PS pump, Spark Plugs, VCGs, coils, fuel filters, CVVs, VANOS seals, rack, LCABs, Exp. Tanks, OFHGs, RCABs, OP, boots, ABS, GUIDOs, starter, A/C, DISA, Diff, SAP

Ultra Premium Grand 10 Star+ Super Duper BMW-pedic Sport Plus +++
BMWCaptain is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-03-2013, 12:47 PM   #14
Brevik
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 783
My Ride: Tiag M3
If it were me I would just put the battery in, turn the key a few times to make sure you have fuel pressure and give it a shot. It is not like it has never ran before, it should be just fine, don't over think it. If you are unable to start it after a few trys, then start to dig deeper.
Brevik is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-03-2013, 01:25 PM   #15
sgoetz628
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 333
My Ride: 2002 330 CiC
Quote:
Originally Posted by jsaklas View Post
Thanks to all responders.

Before carrying out your suggestions, I thought I would try to find the fuel filter opening on top of the tank - I was thinking that changing the filter sounded like a good idea.

I removed the seat but I don't see the tank. Am I supposed to remove the rubber covering - see attached photos.

Lastly, in the attached photos there is a wire with a connector on the end that is not connected to anything - is this something I should be worried about.


Thanks again
It's a good thing you didn't go any further. In case your tank is more than 3/4 full (or maybe it's only half), when you take the pump out you'll be swimming in gasoline. Check other threads or maybe someone else can enlighten further.

I'm putting a new fuel pump in just as soon as it warms up a bit. Since I stored it in December with a full tank of gas, I'll have to drive around a good bit to burn off gas before starting the procedure.
__________________
I love my car as much today as the day I bought it
sgoetz628 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-17-2013, 01:10 PM   #16
jsaklas
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Maryland
Posts: 38
My Ride: Chrysler PT Cruiser
Sweet success!!!!!

http://s1.e46fanatics.com/forum/imag...icon_thank.gif
Thanks much to all of you. After I finished the brake bleeding, I dropped the car off the jack stands. I removed the plugs, removed the 20 AMP fuse for the fuel pump relay (this was the hardest part of the whole task, surely BMW could design a better fuse box), put about 1- 1.5 tablespoons of oil down the spark plug holes. connected a brand new battery (the old was stone dead) and cranked it 4 times for about 4 seconds each time. Then I put new NGK plugs (the Bosch that were in there looked decent, but since I had them out I replaced them), replaced the 20 AMP fuse, I got behind the wheel and WHAM, after 16 dead months, it fired up after cranking only a second or two. Hey for a 65 year old guy, I almost got a hard you-know-what.

I had the garage door open, but it still made it smell like a diesel truck warehouse - I immediately backed it out, let it idle turned the steering lock to lock (I had changed ALL steering hoses) added some ATF fluid and took off. I kept the RPM below 2500 as I drove through the subdivision. It seemed to run well. There was a scrapping sound at first in the passenger side rear, but it went away (rusting brakes, I assume) and there may be some clicking near the engine rear (valve?, knocking?)

I'm glad I didn't need to change the gas - tank was more than 3/4 full.

It's back in the garage now. I need to change at least one headlight assembly and, if I can, I need a rear end boot - look for me on some new threads.

Again, THANKS
jsaklas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-17-2013, 01:50 PM   #17
David McMahon
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Suffolk, UK
Posts: 1,330
My Ride: 15/Dec/98 E46 328i
Congratulations
__________________
David McMahon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-17-2013, 11:59 PM   #18
BMWCaptain
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: TEXAS - Where I give Real World advice and don't just criticize others. People here need to RESPECT other's opinions!
Posts: 1,601
My Ride: 03 325iT SportWagon
That is the best way to do it. Nice and simple.
__________________
Founding Member of the Club of Dangerous Fanatics

Engine swap, HG, tranny swap, GM & ZF tranny rebuilds, shocks, struts, brakes, WPs, Thermostats, belts, tensioners, fuel pumps, radiators, window regs, hoses, PS pump, Spark Plugs, VCGs, coils, fuel filters, CVVs, VANOS seals, rack, LCABs, Exp. Tanks, OFHGs, RCABs, OP, boots, ABS, GUIDOs, starter, A/C, DISA, Diff, SAP

Ultra Premium Grand 10 Star+ Super Duper BMW-pedic Sport Plus +++
BMWCaptain is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-18-2013, 12:04 PM   #19
sunsetcoast
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: SW Michigan
Posts: 802
My Ride: '99 323i & '00 323iT
Congratulations! Except for the battery, 16 months isn't *that* long for a car to sit.

One thing I have learned is that you can coat the rotors with a very light layer of vegetable oil to prevent rusting. You have to be careful not to saturate the pads. Of course, you also have to remove it when you want to drive it again.

May be more trouble than its worth for many, though.
sunsetcoast is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Censor is ON





All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:26 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
(c) 1999 - 2011 performanceIX Inc - privacy policy - terms of use