Still Suffering from hesitation/bucking even after VANOS seals? Look Inside!

Wow, where has this thread been? Its been hidden for too long! This sounds like exactly what I need to do.

Could someone repost the picture from OP's post? Its not showing up anymore and I'd like to see how far he closed the filaments.

In for pics. Have no idea what you're talking about.

I did this on my MAF because my cruise control wasn't working and it fixed it. I can definitely vouch for this.

Originally Posted by PeeweeCSHL

Wow, where has this thread been? Its been hidden for too long! This sounds like exactly what I need to do.

Could someone repost the picture from OP's post? Its not showing up anymore and I'd like to see how far he closed the filaments.

Originally Posted by Sweetness

In for pics. Have no idea what you're talking about.

Can't edit the original post anymore but here's a pic. Should be pretty self-explanatory on what needs to be done--stick a pick in the seams just above the filaments and close them until they are nice and square as shown below.

I tried this on my car. Beware. This didn't do anything for me personally as far as benefits go, but what it did do was made the pins on my vanos solenoid and MAF come out. If you work on your car a lot and unplug certain connectors, the connectors sometimes lose their ability to retain the pins in their respective bodies once this mod has been performed. No biggy but the pins are so fragile it's easy to change the shape of the pin and/or bend/break the delicate tabs that hold them in.

I'm sure these connectors are standard throughout the auto industry and I can't imagine them needing this type of service or failing to the point where contact is intermittent.

Originally Posted by Mango

I tried this on my car. Beware. This didn't do anything for me personally as far as benefits go, but what it did do was made the pins on my vanos solenoid and MAF come out. If you work on your car a lot and unplug certain connectors, the connectors sometimes lose their ability to retain the pins in their respective bodies once this mod has been performed. No biggy but the pins are so fragile it's easy to change the shape of the pin and/or bend/break the delicate tabs that hold them in.

I'm sure these connectors are standard throughout the auto industry and I can't imagine them needing this type of service or failing to the point where contact is intermittent.

If you're careful then this wont happen. It only happens if you pry in too deeply into the recess and if it does it's an easy fix. It all depends on the build date and harness used as well as history of the car. I've seen some E46's that benefited greatly and some that didn't.

Also just because the auto industry uses them and are the standard doesn't mean they are impervious to defects. Just look at the rear sub-frame fiasco so that's a moot point.

On the bright side there's nothing to loose for trying this out. It can only reward if not leave you as before. Win-Win situation if you ask me.

Originally Posted by new//M3fan

If you're careful then this wont happen. It only happens if you pry in too deeply into the recess and if it does it's an easy fix. It all depends on the build date and harness used as well as history of the car. I've seen some E46's that benefited greatly and some that didn't.

Also just because the auto industry uses them and are the standard doesn't mean they are impervious to defects. Just look at the rear sub-frame fiasco so that's a moot point.

On the bright side there's nothing to loose for trying this out. It can only reward if not leave you as before. Win-Win situation if you ask me.

The subframe issue is based on a proprietary design for one single BMW model. It's not an industry-wide part like a bolt or an electrical crimp connection that is shared among all bmw models as well as models of other makes as well. It likely isn't even limited to just cars. The same crimps are found at radio shack. Apples and oranges.

It may not hurt, but all I'm saying is for people to be careful they don't pop the pins out or damage them beyond repair. Cause then your problems could suddenly become a lot bigger.

Originally Posted by Mango

The subframe issue is based on a proprietary design for one single BMW model. It's not an industry-wide part like a bolt or an electrical crimp connection that is shared among all bmw models as well as models of other makes as well. It likely isn't even limited to just cars. The same crimps are found at radio shack. Apples and oranges.

It may not hurt, but all I'm saying is for people to be careful they don't pop the pins out or damage them beyond repair. Cause then your problems could suddenly become a lot bigger.

I digress on many of your points on this subject and wish to not dwell on it any further. To each their own.

Originally Posted by new//M3fan

I digress on many of your points on this subject and wish to not dwell on it any further. To each their own.

All I'm saying is I'm not ruling out your fix as being a fix, but it's likely if the crimps were a problem on the E46, they'd be a problem on all cars as all cars use a similar, if not the same electrical pin crimp. I'm just not seeing it unless there's something unique to the e46 chassis/wiring that makes the pins weak.

Originally Posted by Mango

All I'm saying is I'm not ruling out your fix as being a fix, but it's likely if the crimps were a problem on the E46, they'd be a problem on all cars as all cars use a similar, if not the same electrical pin crimp. I'm just not seeing it unless there's something unique to the e46 chassis/wiring that makes the pins weak.

The physical connector itself may look the same bin the pin itself CAN become weak IMO is weak. For example E30's look like they have the same connector design until you look at the pins that are designed to always have consistent pressure on the mating pins. I can take a picture of on in my E30 by comparison and you can quickly see how BMW has gone ass backwards since then.

This isn't just E46 it's all BMW's with the same pin and connector design.

Hell, I've seen E46's with poor radio connections out the back causing the K-bus to dissapear which caused the car to not have lights, or be able to roll the windows up.

BMW wanted a million dollars to fix it, and independents wanted a quarter mil, and I fixed it for an alleged dinner that never happened... lol oh well

Originally Posted by new//M3fan

The physical connector itself may look the same bin the pin itself CAN become weak IMO is weak. For example E30's look like they have the same connector design until you look at the pins that are designed to always have consistent pressure on the mating pins. I can take a picture of on in my E30 by comparison and you can quickly see how BMW has gone ass backwards since then.

This isn't just E46 it's all BMW's with the same pin and connector design.

Hell, I've seen E46's with poor radio connections out the back causing the K-bus to dissapear which caused the car to not have lights, or be able to roll the windows up.

BMW wanted a million dollars to fix it, and independents wanted a quarter mil, and I fixed it for an alleged dinner that never happened... lol oh well

So far all the connectors i've looked at appear to be tight. I crimped them down anyway with no perceivable change. We'll see what the ICV one does.

Originally Posted by new//M3fan

I digress on many of your points on this subject and wish to not dwell on it any further.

Huh?

digress
verb [ no obj. ]
leave the main subject temporarily in speech or writing

Originally Posted by Stinger9

Huh?

digress
verb [ no obj. ]
leave the main subject temporarily in speech or writing

"many of your points" is the main subject, so it is implied (assuming it is part of the above post). There is not need for a grammar lesson. This is a forum where you write as if you had a conversation not a speech, unless you want to write an essay and make this your thesis statement. BTW, English is not my main language and found it funny cause the sentence makes perfect sense.

Originally Posted by djnekkon

"many of your points" is the main subject, so it is implied (assuming it is part of the above post). There is not need for a grammar lesson. This is a forum where you write as if you had a conversation not a speech, unless you want to write an essay and make this your thesis statement. BTW, English is not my main language and found it funny cause the sentence makes perfect sense.

Was a vocabulary lesson, not grammar. But forgiven 'cause I'd no doubt sound like a complete fool in your language.
Just havin' fun here anyway!

Hmm...interesting. I feel as if a DME flash can help this go away too. Either way, it's worth a glance on everyone's car to check. I'm sure this happens to less than 10% of all E46s. Could replacing Vanos Solenoid help this?

probably not. solenoids don't really fail.

also i tried this on all my connectors. nada.

Originally Posted by Mango

probably not. solenoids don't really fail.

also i tried this on all my connectors. nada.

Thanks for testing. You probably saved me from hacking up my car.

Originally Posted by new//M3fan

My car has suffered from a slight hesitation when taking off and under load, and also when suddenly accelerating under load at low rpm's up until 3k in 1st through 2nd even well after 3k miles on the beisansystems.com seals.

So I went in and looked at the MAF, cleaned it and also inside the connector I crimped down the pins inside so it would grab the receiving end pins better--that helped but the hesitation was still there.

Just 3 days ago I decided to clean and evenly crimped (using a pick) down the pins inside the connector for the exhaust VANOS solenoid; I took it for a spin and lo and behold the hesitation was pretty much gone! A few days went by and the more I drove the car the more low end torque it developed and it revved up smoother and smoother.

Yesterday, I did the same thing to the intake VANOS solenoid connector. Took it for a spin and the car felt as if the DME was relearning it's VANOS adaptations all over again! (felt sluggish at the beginning and started feeling stronger about 3 to 6 minutes later) 30 miles later the car feels great! and there is absolutely no hesitation under any circumstances!

The hesitation was caused due to shoddy and loose contact between the solenoid and it's receiving end [VANOS solenoid contacts]-- In other words

I have the exact same symptoms. Car has 54,3xx on the ODO and I've only owned for a week. Did the above today and took it just around the block. Need to take it out and see if there is a difference. All connectors were in great shape, no corrosion or signs of abuse. In fact, the damn thing looks new. I will report back, hopefully I am one of the success stories.

Hey! i have a similar problem! slight hesitation when taking off and ever so slightly gittery when stopped at lights, junctions ect. (auto box) it sounds fine in neutral. i took it to the shop and the first thing the guy did was open the oil cap! the car cut out and he said it was an air problem! that the engine was taking in air through air breather manifold or somewhere else! dose this sound right or has anyone had a similar diagnosis?? thanks!