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Old 04-10-2013, 01:33 PM   #41
yenghead
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Have you look at the crank shaft sensor and the wiring to it?? That's what fixed my problem...
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Old 04-15-2013, 06:31 AM   #42
pSyCoSiS
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Right - another update.

Took it to a guy who:
  • Removed all injectors and thorougly checked and cleaned them
  • Cleaned DISA valve
  • Cleaned Throttle Body
  • Re-sealed everything back into place
The car ran ok for a few days, but is NOW DOING THE ROUGH IDLING AGAIN !!!

What else can this be?

Is it possible it could be the MAF? As I know they don't always show fault codes..

If it is a possiblity of being a MAF, any idea where I can get a genuine / correct one at a reasonable price? As from BMW, they are expensive!
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Old 04-15-2013, 08:31 AM   #43
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don't throw your money at a maf. disconnect it and drive. if it does the same thing, that's not it. let me help you buddy. i had the same issue as you. I actually was guaranteed to stall my car, which is an automatic if I was going a bit faster than normal and had to take a turn soon. as soon as I slowed down going into the turn, halfway through the turn, the called stalled. I also noticed the stalling occurring primarily when the cars rpms were plummeting where the computer had shifted the tranny into neutral. when it did stall, it started right back up like nothing happened. the rpms bouncing around going up and down was a constant. i too was replacing things like mad. I'm surprised you're not showing faults codes. I had a least misfires every now and then.

First off, have you or had you recently had an oil leak due to a valve cover gasket? is there signs of an oil leak from the VCG. ok, now, when has the spark plugs last been changed? that was my issue. I checked only 1-2 spark plugs while I was doing VCG but failed to check them all. 2 of them had been gunked up by oil due to the leaking VCG. after changing them, my problems were no more. odd spark plugs could do that.

also, is the surging rpms bouncing around happening during a cold start? mine felt and ran fine during a cold start but as soon as the engine warmed up, that's when it happened. I thhink its because engine puts more fuel in during the mornings, which helped with spark plugs combustion.
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Last edited by NumbaOneNewb; 04-15-2013 at 08:34 AM.
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Old 04-15-2013, 08:39 AM   #44
pSyCoSiS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NumbaOneNewb View Post
don't throw your money at a maf. disconnect it and drive. if it does the same thing, that's not it. let me help you buddy. i had the same issue as you. I actually was guaranteed to stall my car, which is an automatic if I was going a bit faster than normal and had to take a turn soon. as soon as I slowed down going into the turn, halfway through the turn, the called stalled. I also noticed the stalling occurring primarily when the cars rpms were plummeting where the computer had shifted the tranny into neutral. when it did stall, it started right back up like nothing happened. the rpms bouncing around going up and down was a constant. i too was replacing things like mad. I'm surprised you're not showing faults codes. I had a least misfires every now and then.

First off, have you or had you recently had an oil leak due to a valve cover gasket? is there signs of an oil leak from the VCG. ok, now, when has the spark plugs last been changed? that was my issue. I checked only 1-2 spark plugs while I was doing VCG but failed to check them all. 2 of them had been gunked up by oil due to the leaking VCG. after changing them, my problems were no more. odd spark plugs could do that.

also, is the surging rpms bouncing around happening during a cold start? mine felt and ran fine during a cold start but as soon as the engine warmed up, that's when it happened. I thhink its because engine puts more fuel in during the mornings, which helped with spark plugs combustion.
Thanks for this reply. I could check this to see how bad the spark plugs are. They were changed about a month before the Valve Covers Gasket / Vanos Unit was replaced, so not too sure if it will still be a cause.

The thing is, the car doesn't really stall, it just idles up and down. It will stall if you don't get the bite right, due to the revs dipping.

The issue you described was what I had on my Jaguar XJR Supercharger - oil was seeping into the spark plug chambers and causing the car to misfire and cut out.

And yes, it does seem to happen more when the car is at a warmer temperature. When cold, it (mostly) seems to behave itself.

Last edited by pSyCoSiS; 04-15-2013 at 08:42 AM.
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Old 04-15-2013, 08:46 AM   #45
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yeah, you see. if you had changed your plugs after VCG, I would say its not it. this is a quick check and its free. I had chased my issue for almost 8 months replacing a whole bunch of stuff (although I do consider most of it preventative maintenance or soon to need to change maintenance) and when it all came down to it, it was the spark plugs. shouldn't take you long at all to check all 6. like I said, something free and if not it, you can cross it off your check list. if the VCG was leaking pretty bad, in a months driving, especially if high rpms were reached, spark plugs could easily get gunked up and it'd only take 1 to show your symptoms. in my case, I'd say it was 2-3 that was bad.
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Old 04-15-2013, 09:24 AM   #46
pSyCoSiS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NumbaOneNewb View Post
yeah, you see. if you had changed your plugs after VCG, I would say its not it. this is a quick check and its free. I had chased my issue for almost 8 months replacing a whole bunch of stuff (although I do consider most of it preventative maintenance or soon to need to change maintenance) and when it all came down to it, it was the spark plugs. shouldn't take you long at all to check all 6. like I said, something free and if not it, you can cross it off your check list. if the VCG was leaking pretty bad, in a months driving, especially if high rpms were reached, spark plugs could easily get gunked up and it'd only take 1 to show your symptoms. in my case, I'd say it was 2-3 that was bad.
You have a very good point there - many thanks for this post.

It's really weird though. Had a full Inspection II done at the BMW Specialiat, and within a month or so, the oil light started coming on. The thing is, it would never drip any oil to the ground Or I could not smell any oil burning either.

But, if the oil was changed only a month prior to it being empty, then it could possibly have been leaking into the chambers...

When the VANOS was being done, the VCG was replaced, as the old one was brittle / broken.

I will try and get it over to a local mechanic to inspect the spark plugs. And in the meantime, will unplug the current MAF to see if that makes a difference.

Thank you once again.

Last edited by pSyCoSiS; 04-15-2013 at 09:25 AM.
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Old 04-15-2013, 10:25 AM   #47
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Mine crackled and disintegrated after touching it. It was neglected, severely. Yeah hope you get this solved
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Old 04-15-2013, 10:58 AM   #48
irwankencana
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You're Saying the other MAF you're using was a USED MAF? if so, then could be the "used" MAF not working perfectly.
I had same issued even with new "cheap chinese" MAF and it didn't help at all. Bought original Siemens for $200, then all problems disappeared.
But then again, you said tried unplug the MAF without any result, so this could not be MAF issue to.
Well at least in my identical problem with you, it cured with replacing with new OEM MAF.

Quote:
Originally Posted by pSyCoSiS View Post
Hi there,

Yes - it was an OE part, removed from an E46 BMW 325i 2001 model year.

Was known to be working, but, when connected to the car, the car revved erratically, then just cut out....
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Old 04-23-2013, 08:40 AM   #49
joni
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Any progress on this?
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Old 04-25-2013, 05:58 AM   #50
pSyCoSiS
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Hello all.

An update.

Got my guy to take out all spark plugs.

There was a little oil residue in the chambers, but the spark plugs didn't look too bad.

Nevertheless, I had all 6 Spark Plugs replaced with new Bosch SuperPlus Iridium tip ones (got them for a good price).

Guess what - the problem is STILL THERE!

I actually feel like just getting rid of the car now. My wife refuses to drive it, and understandably so, as it's dangerous in the traffic she has on the way to and from work.

I have now disconnected the MAF, and will see if this makes a difference.

To clarify a few points regarding the MAF:
  • The car is still using it's original MAF
  • I tried a used MAF sensor on the car, and when this was installed, the car just kept cutting out (I didnt actually buy the part, but tested it from the guy who was selling it)

It still doesn't seem to feel 'right', even with the MAF disconnected.

Do you think I should buy an OEM MAF Sensor? If so, where can you recommend getting from, as from BMW direct, it's around 350 GBP! (and with the money already thrown at the car, I ain't spending that on a MAF!).

Also, this may or may not be related, the car seems to be using a fair bit of oil.

I had an Inspection II done on the car back in Feb of this year, and when the VANOS was replaced, the oil was almost empty (this was probably due to the cracked valve cover gasket).

The VCG was replaced, and the oil topped up. This was in mid March.

This week I checked the oil on the dipstick, and it was showing almost empty again!

I topped up 1.5 litres, and this brought the level back up to normal...

Question is:

Why is the car using so much oil? The VCG has been replaced along with the whole CCV breather unit. There are no visible oil leaks anywhere else.

Could the oil consumption be related to the idling issues?

The car is only driven around 400 miles per month, so that should no way use that amount of oil.

Any advice would be of great help - I am literally at a stage that I don't know what to do with it!

Many thanks.
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Old 04-25-2013, 06:05 AM   #51
HallisterJ1
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Wow, what a complex problem you have.
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Old 04-25-2013, 06:15 AM   #52
scarede46er
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Dude, I told you. You tried the wrong used MAF. At least to eliminate the problem try a MAF from a 2003+ car and see.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pSyCoSiS View Post
Hello all.

An update.

Got my guy to take out all spark plugs.

There was a little oil residue in the chambers, but the spark plugs didn't look too bad.

Nevertheless, I had all 6 Spark Plugs replaced with new Bosch SuperPlus Iridium tip ones (got them for a good price).

Guess what - the problem is STILL THERE!

I actually feel like just getting rid of the car now. My wife refuses to drive it, and understandably so, as it's dangerous in the traffic she has on the way to and from work.

I have now disconnected the MAF, and will see if this makes a difference.

To clarify a few points regarding the MAF:
  • The car is still using it's original MAF
  • I tried a used MAF sensor on the car, and when this was installed, the car just kept cutting out (I didnt actually buy the part, but tested it from the guy who was selling it)

It still doesn't seem to feel 'right', even with the MAF disconnected.

Do you think I should buy an OEM MAF Sensor? If so, where can you recommend getting from, as from BMW direct, it's around 350 GBP! (and with the money already thrown at the car, I ain't spending that on a MAF!).

Also, this may or may not be related, the car seems to be using a fair bit of oil.

I had an Inspection II done on the car back in Feb of this year, and when the VANOS was replaced, the oil was almost empty (this was probably due to the cracked valve cover gasket).

The VCG was replaced, and the oil topped up. This was in mid March.

This week I checked the oil on the dipstick, and it was showing almost empty again!

I topped up 1.5 litres, and this brought the level back up to normal...

Question is:

Why is the car using so much oil? The VCG has been replaced along with the whole CCV breather unit. There are no visible oil leaks anywhere else.

Could the oil consumption be related to the idling issues?

The car is only driven around 400 miles per month, so that should no way use that amount of oil.

Any advice would be of great help - I am literally at a stage that I don't know what to do with it!

Many thanks.
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Old 04-25-2013, 01:55 PM   #53
NumbaOneNewb
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You do indeed have a very complex issue. I don't understand how you're still losing oil. You've pretty much eliminated all the known possible causes of oil leaks. Are you sure vcg was done correctly? did the guy use rtv silicone? Although that shouldn't cause the idling problems that could explain oil consumption. Others may say our cars cars naturally eats oil but not that much. Now you said that when you disconnected the maf it didn't run right. Did it have an idling issue however?
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Old 04-25-2013, 04:29 PM   #54
HallisterJ1
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It's time to take it to an independent or well-known german auto specialist. (Yelp is a good guide, at least in SD)
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Old 04-30-2013, 03:53 PM   #55
pSyCoSiS
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Hi all.

Been running the car with the MAF disconnected and it hasn't idled up and down as bad as it was.

It did it a couple of times, but that could just be the car adapting to it's values?

Nowhere near as bad as before and seems more stable.

It does seem down on power though with the MAF disconnected - I take it as this is normal?

I can't get my hands on an indentical MAF to try, so have no option other than to buy a genuine replacement.

I can get a genuine new Siemens VDO unit for around 200 GBP.

If this doesn't fix the issue, the car is going! I've really have had enough of it now!

As for the oil consumption, I will keep a close eye on it and see how that goes. It could have just been a one off, or could be something else underlying...
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Old 04-30-2013, 08:22 PM   #56
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Couple things. If you end up selling, it'll be hard to get a good value out of it idling funny like that. Bmws don't run like that and you'll take a big hit selling with issues remaining. If it doesn't end up being the maf, you've invested so much already, not to mention a lot of it in labor, i bet you can't be too far off from knocking most of the known problems out. She might keep running for you for a long time.
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Old 05-04-2013, 09:50 AM   #57
abby.kekana
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Hi
I', experiencing the same problem. This ended messing my gearbox up. As the idling was uneven, I tried engaging the gear while on high revs and that damaged the gearbox.
One reputable mechanic recommended that i take it to BMW to have the throttle body checked. I'm still gathering courage to do this.
Should this resolve my problem, I will let you know.
Hope something gets resolved soon.
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Old 05-04-2013, 10:41 AM   #58
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It sounds like you've just thrown parts on the car hoping to find the problem but you can't pull the intake boots off to look for tears? It's the easiest thing to do and only US$40 to replace. I'm afraid to ask how much you've spent on parts and labor.
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Old 05-04-2013, 10:49 AM   #59
04330ciZHP
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I had a car in the shop doing this yesterday. No faults codes stored but the idle was up and down. Found the alternator was only putting out 12.5 volts at idle, battery light was not coming on. New alternator fixed the idle issue. May be worth checking.
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Old 05-09-2013, 06:29 AM   #60
pSyCoSiS
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Originally Posted by tcphoto View Post
It sounds like you've just thrown parts on the car hoping to find the problem but you can't pull the intake boots off to look for tears? It's the easiest thing to do and only US$40 to replace. I'm afraid to ask how much you've spent on parts and labor.
All of these had already been checked prior to replacing major components.

There are no tears in the intake boots.
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