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Mid Atlantic
Have you seen another BMW while driving around in your area? Maybe you can find their car in the E46Fanatics Garage!
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Old 03-15-2013, 01:13 PM   #61
FooFighter94
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Originally Posted by Eisenheim View Post
What I was under the imression of was that, the early models until 2002.5-2003 were notorious for the weak subframe. Granted the subframe is weak no matter what year, the early models were the worst. If I were you, I would do the TMS kit (or similar) and have a brace made in the trunk. it'll be a little pricey, but its way more cheap than paying over 4k to REPAIR and REINFORCE, than reinforce alone. Or just drive like a grandma, but for me, I bought an M3 to drive it like an M3, not just to look good.
Blahhh I hope mine is still in good shape and all I have to do is reinforce, rather than repair.. Where precisely should I look for this damage? I am in college right now and don't have the car with me, but I go on break in a week and wanna check this out. Maybe I can learn how to weld and do it mostly myself
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Old 03-15-2013, 07:38 PM   #62
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Originally Posted by FooFighter94 View Post
Blahhh I hope mine is still in good shape and all I have to do is reinforce, rather than repair.. Where precisely should I look for this damage? I am in college right now and don't have the car with me, but I go on break in a week and wanna check this out. Maybe I can learn how to weld and do it mostly myself
This is not a good "learning project" for welding. The subframe is the rear differential/suspension carrier that the rear suspension and differential bolt to. The failure points are the rear floor that it mounts to (4 mounting points with big bushings). If you want to spend the time to figure out how to take it apart and put it back in, please hire a mobile welder that is qualified to do this kind of work..
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Old 03-16-2013, 12:28 AM   #63
FooFighter94
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This is not a good "learning project" for welding. The subframe is the rear differential/suspension carrier that the rear suspension and differential bolt to. The failure points are the rear floor that it mounts to (4 mounting points with big bushings). If you want to spend the time to figure out how to take it apart and put it back in, please hire a mobile welder that is qualified to do this kind of work..
Yes you are definitely right about learning to weld on something that could potentially put my life and car at risk. I am hoping that since my grandmother originally drove the car, she took it easy on the launches

If I don't find any cracks or tears, what is the most I should pay to have the reinforcement plates welded in? I am confident that I can disassemble/reassemble the rear end. Its just the welding I am scared about. There's a shop not too far from me that has done it before, just need to see what prices I should be expecting?
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Old 03-16-2013, 09:11 AM   #64
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if i remember correctly, wasnt Piper the shop that did that V10 E30? Glad you got everything fixed, but I would DEFINITELY take legal action against the dealership. How could a dealer sell you a car like that? Dont just eat that $4K or however much you ended up paying, get your ****ing money back.

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Old 03-16-2013, 09:52 AM   #65
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he signed a purchase contract for "as-is" and the anti-lemon laws only cover a certain period of time after the sale (like 2-3? depends on state maybe?) so the only option would be to take the dealer to court which has its additional costs and time spent, only resulting in the dealer continuing to refuse to pay since the payment is not enforceable by law. You would just hassle the dealer, but not as much as your own hassle, because the dealer has experience in dealing with these matters. Change the dealership name and voila, back to doing sketchy business.
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Old 03-16-2013, 10:24 AM   #66
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he signed a purchase contract for "as-is" and the anti-lemon laws only cover a certain period of time after the sale (like 2-3? depends on state maybe?) so the only option would be to take the dealer to court which has its additional costs and time spent, only resulting in the dealer continuing to refuse to pay since the payment is not enforceable by law. You would just hassle the dealer, but not as much as your own hassle, because the dealer has experience in dealing with these matters. Change the dealership name and voila, back to doing sketchy business.
damn, thats some sad shiit.
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Old 04-17-2013, 07:56 PM   #67
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Yea i know where that is. Im right in Annapolis. Did you replace all of the associated bushings? I.E subframe, diff (front and back with the cover) ect ect.
Sure did, Subframe, Diff and RTABS. It was the only sensible thing to do.

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Originally Posted by FooFighter94 View Post
Blahhh I hope mine is still in good shape and all I have to do is reinforce, rather than repair.. Where precisely should I look for this damage? I am in college right now and don't have the car with me, but I go on break in a week and wanna check this out. Maybe I can learn how to weld and do it mostly myself
well...it's kinda hard to see if its just starting. you cant really see it without dropping the subframe. But if its already pretty bad, you will be able to feel it...and possibly see it punching cracks in the trunk floor.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamdrivedrift View Post
This is not a good "learning project" for welding. The subframe is the rear differential/suspension carrier that the rear suspension and differential bolt to. The failure points are the rear floor that it mounts to (4 mounting points with big bushings). If you want to spend the time to figure out how to take it apart and put it back in, please hire a mobile welder that is qualified to do this kind of work..
you are very correct!
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Originally Posted by fayraree View Post
he signed a purchase contract for "as-is" and the anti-lemon laws only cover a certain period of time after the sale (like 2-3? depends on state maybe?) so the only option would be to take the dealer to court which has its additional costs and time spent, only resulting in the dealer continuing to refuse to pay since the payment is not enforceable by law. You would just hassle the dealer, but not as much as your own hassle, because the dealer has experience in dealing with these matters. Change the dealership name and voila, back to doing sketchy business.
Yup, thats exactly what they did. Changed the name slightly, and their phone number. Edited the online add (which I had the original printed out thank god) and stopped returning or answering my calls. The guy (Madi) would hand up as soon as he would hear my voice. Shady ****face. BBB basically said up yours even though I provided all the email logs, original add and Piper even vouched for me. All I can say for him is....



Karma's a ****.
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Old 04-17-2013, 08:20 PM   #68
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what's their new companies name?
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Old 04-17-2013, 08:26 PM   #69
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what's their new companies name?
Auto Madi - 187 West Shirley Ave., Warrenton, VA 20186

http://www.automotiveguideonline.com...rections.shtml

https://www.facebook.com/pages/AUTO-...01600009901627

Pathetic ****s. Their site isn't even running hahah. All they have is a FB, and my car is actually on there.
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Old 04-17-2013, 08:35 PM   #70
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pillage them
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Old 04-17-2013, 08:38 PM   #71
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pillage them
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Old 05-12-2013, 07:32 PM   #72
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th?
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Yea i know where that is. Im right in Annapolis. Did you replace all of the associated bushings? I.E subframe, diff (front and back with the cover) ect ect.
Yea I replaced the Diff, Sub frame and RTABs while it was getting done. Powerflex diff and sub frame, and UUC RTABs....man did those RTABs squeek for a bit. You doing the Philly Cheese steak run on the 19th?
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