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This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW!

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Old 04-14-2013, 02:29 AM   #1141
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just surprising since you even put things like mounting bolts and fan blades in the list but didn't put a sensor that is easily breakable
you can remove the sensor and throw it in the garbage. nothing would happen.

you break or strip the bolts holding the water pump pulley upon removal and your day will get a lot longer.

Also it's not easily breakable. it twists off and twists back on with ease. i've done the job at least two dozen times. i know what the list needs and what it doesn't. replace it if it makes you feel better. i did.
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Old 04-17-2013, 12:01 AM   #1142
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Great post!

One question: if I buy all those parts myself, my mechanic's gonna get butthurt & not pull any punches on labor since he makes a good portion of his money on parts. He's a great guy & I trust him, but there will be no free hours given if I show up with a trunk full of parts. How many honest labor hours can I expect to pay for on an auto-tranny coolant system replacement for all the parts listed above?
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Old 04-17-2013, 12:12 AM   #1143
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Great post!

One question: if I buy all those parts myself, my mechanic's gonna get butthurt & not pull any punches on labor since he makes a good portion of his money on parts. He's a great guy & I trust him, but there will be no free hours given if I show up with a trunk full of parts. How many honest labor hours can I expect to pay for on an auto-tranny coolant system replacement for all the parts listed above?
Probably 5 or 6. I encourage you to do this yourself though. You'll pay at least $400-500 on the low end for labor. You may as well give that money to me
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Old 04-17-2013, 12:41 AM   #1144
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I agree with Mango!

Your probably looking at 4-5 hours if you are taking your time. Sometimes the hoses are tough to take off but once everything is removed and the system is flushed the new parts for like a glove. Bleeding the system is straight forward too.

Do the job yourself and enjoy the satisfaction of a job well done. This is also a good time to upgrade your water pump and power steering pump pulleys to aluminum ones to prevent the stock plastic once from breaking apart in the future.

Good luck!
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Old 04-17-2013, 12:33 PM   #1145
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Another Cooling question...

Ok I did the search but at 900 plus pages with reference to cooling temp, I just saves time to ask, besides it gives you a chance to increase your post counts!!

First Question: What is the optimal coolant temp range for the E54 eng.

I drove my car around for awhile using the OBD menu to display the coolant temp the highest it got up to was 95 deg C. Just want to check

Second Question: Has anyone installed a CoolantSnitch, if so what are your feelings about this product?

TIA
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Old 04-17-2013, 12:36 PM   #1146
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Ok I did the search but at 900 plus pages with reference to cooling temp, I just saves time to ask, besides it gives you a chance to increase your post counts!!

First Question: What is the optimal coolant temp range for the E54 eng.

I drove my car around for awhile using the OBD menu to display the coolant temp the highest it got up to was 95 deg C. Just want to check

Second Question: Has anyone installed a CoolantSnitch, if so what are your feelings about this product?

TIA
I don't know what an E54 engine is. maybe you meant M54? I believe 90-99c is the most commonly reported range. mine sits between 93-95c.

I don't think the coolant snitch is a bad idea. It can warn you before the upper limit of the buffer is reached (well before the needle creeps past middle)

If you maintain your cooling system, it's mostly a waste of money but some people might find it useful. I may get one at some point.
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Old 04-17-2013, 12:36 PM   #1147
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Sorry I was reading this post trying to find my answer, didnt want to post my question on here, but the main board. I dont have enough permissions to delete it. So if a moderator can move it that would be great, thx.
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Old 04-17-2013, 12:37 PM   #1148
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I don't know what an E54 engine is. maybe you meant M54? I believe 90-99c is the most commonly reported range. mine sits between 93-95c.
Sry typo. Thanks for the reply.
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Old 04-17-2013, 02:23 PM   #1149
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whats the dissadvantage of having regular green fluid in your radiator
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Old 04-17-2013, 02:25 PM   #1150
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whats the dissadvantage of having regular green fluid in your radiator
It's more expensive than the correct stuff and is not formulated specifically for the engine. It also looks horrible. There's literally no upside.
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Old 04-17-2013, 02:27 PM   #1151
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so would a drain and refill/bleed be enough or anything else i should do . cooling system was refreshed 20k miles ago by previous owner and i just noticed green fluid last night
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Old 04-17-2013, 02:32 PM   #1152
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so would a drain and refill/bleed be enough or anything else i should do . cooling system was refreshed 20k miles ago by previous owner and i just noticed green fluid last night
Refreshed how? The fact that you noticed "green fluid" means it's leaking. If it's leaking, there's a reason. Find out what wasn't replaced during the "refresh." If you are unable to obtain such information, then assume nothing has been done and replace it all. GL
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Old 04-17-2013, 03:45 PM   #1153
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so would a drain and refill/bleed be enough or anything else i should do . cooling system was refreshed 20k miles ago by previous owner and i just noticed green fluid last night
Leaking or not...Green fluid indicates your cooling system has an infection, proceed to nearest euro parts house, and pick up antibiotics in the form of BMW/Mini coolant.
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Old 04-21-2013, 06:58 AM   #1154
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Mango i have one question about coolant. As i saw on your first page you said that the car needs to be turned off while pouring coolant. Why all of the people say that you need to leave the engine running and open the radiator cap and loosen the black bleed / vent screw until water starts coming out of the hole. BMW's engine can reach 105 degrees. So what is the right procedure for bleeding? Hot engine and then loosening vent screw or when the engine is cold? I would really like to know because i have thermostate to replace and there are so many DIY's on web that i don't know which procedure is right. Thank you. I have M43B19 engine.
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Old 04-21-2013, 10:44 AM   #1155
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Use your OBC hidden functions to check your operating temperature. Normal is 93-95 C, so 105 would be very unusual.
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Old 04-21-2013, 12:44 PM   #1156
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I don't think that this is the right procedure. READ: Used in engines M43 (B16, B19, B19TU).
Map controlled thermostat, with seal, opening temp. 105 degrees C. At 100 degrees water boils so it has different specifications than under 100 degrees. That's why i am asking. Because it can cause serious damage to our engines.
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Old 04-21-2013, 01:37 PM   #1157
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You can run the engine when it is cold if you want to bleed running. Never open the cap after the engine is hot.
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Old 04-21-2013, 02:19 PM   #1158
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Yes but when the engine is cold water have different volume. i don't know maybe i am wrong but if thermostate opens up to 105 degrees..
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Old 04-21-2013, 03:38 PM   #1159
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bleed cold, run car, bleed cold again next day, run car, top off next day, top off next day, done.
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Old 04-21-2013, 04:00 PM   #1160
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Thank u mango. Only few more questions. Does car need to be on jack stands(front of the car) during this procedure? And what temperature car need to reach while running? After finishing bleeding i mean.
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