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E46 Xi Forum
The E46 XI was produced from 01-05 in sedan and touring body styles. Powered by either a 2.5L inline 6 in the 325xi or a 3.0L inline 6 330xi. Discuss all thing about BMW AWD E46 'Xi' here.

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Old 03-12-2013, 05:06 AM   #181
Itzed
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Of course it's impossible to know what is really going on with these, but logically, if they moved at all, I would bet that they were not coming off straight and were only moving on one side, not straight out. If that was the case, the more it moved on the one side, the more it old be jamming on the other, if that makes sense.
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Old 03-12-2013, 07:15 AM   #182
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Quote:
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Of course it's impossible to know what is really going on with these, but logically, if they moved at all, I would bet that they were not coming off straight and were only moving on one side, not straight out. If that was the case, the more it moved on the one side, the more it old be jamming on the other, if that makes sense.
Perhaps, but after already spending as much time as I did... I couldn't take the time to keep trying more than more things, wife needs her car back. I have confidence the shop will be able to get it sorted out in a timely fashion. At least I already had a nice GKN axle for the replacement and they agreed to use it.

Saved so much money on the axle vs the dealer that I'll probably still come out ahead, or at worst break even on what I would have paid if I never bothered trying DIY... and if it would have slid out it would have been totally worth it.
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Old 03-12-2013, 01:55 PM   #183
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Update: the shop got my old axle out and said it was "no problem" *gasp*.... they probably have much nicer presses and stuff though

Unfortunately they also noticed that both my rear springs are broken... not sure why we wouldn't have noticed that while driving around but I suppose the shock absorber is still there so maybe not as noticeable as you'd think if it isn't making any rattling sounds. Since it was already there, I'm just having them do it even though I'm pretty sure it wouldn't be too bad to do it myself, I feel bad for sending them my vehicle like I did, part way through the axle change and with my own part, I'm pretty sure they don't make as much money when that happens since they only would have charged for labor.
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Old 03-12-2013, 02:57 PM   #184
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Have you had the inspection for the subframe defect? If it were my car and they told me both rear springs were broken, I'd be looking pretty closely for cracks in the subframe just to make sure I felt good about there being no further damage. I think I remember reading somewhere that the AWD versions were not affacted, but I'm not sure about that and I still worry about it.

Last edited by Itzed; 03-12-2013 at 03:01 PM.
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Old 03-12-2013, 03:04 PM   #185
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Quote:
Originally Posted by linuxfreakus View Post
Update: the shop got my old axle out and said it was "no problem" *gasp*.... they probably have much nicer presses and stuff though

Unfortunately they also noticed that both my rear springs are broken... not sure why we wouldn't have noticed that while driving around but I suppose the shock absorber is still there so maybe not as noticeable as you'd think if it isn't making any rattling sounds. Since it was already there, I'm just having them do it even though I'm pretty sure it wouldn't be too bad to do it myself, I feel bad for sending them my vehicle like I did, part way through the axle change and with my own part, I'm pretty sure they don't make as much money when that happens since they only would have charged for labor.
Broken rear springs are a known issue on xi's. I didn't use OEM for replacement. you can get a complete set (4) of Eibach's for less than a pair of OEM's.
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Old 03-12-2013, 06:12 PM   #186
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Broken rear springs are a known issue on xi's. I didn't use OEM for replacement. you can get a complete set (4) of Eibach's for less than a pair of OEM's.
True, I saw that too, but I don't want to lower my vehicle and I'm not sure those would last any longer; since they are stiffer they may actually have less longevity... all the vibrations would be primarily focused on the ends of the springs leading to rapid metal fatigue in the constantly stressed area... probably the same reason the OEM springs seem to fail faster than softer springs people might be used to on other "non-sporty" cars. Sure Eibach offers a "million mile warranty" but I'm sure that is just marketing BS, they can't seriously expect them to last a million miles, that is outrageous. I just read the fine print on their website and the warranty claims are only after you buy a new set, and then they *might* reimburse you at their sole discretion after they examine the failed spring which you must pay to send back to them.... and a quick search on google turns up many people who've had them fail in less than 40k miles. They are probably banking on the fact that once people get to the point where they are replacing springs, they probably won't keep the car long enough for the second set to wear out also.

Last edited by linuxfreakus; 03-12-2013 at 06:41 PM.
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Old 03-14-2013, 01:24 PM   #187
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Picked up the car from the shop and new axle is silky smooth. I think perhaps it needed replacement long before I started hearing clicking recently, it was never this smooth before. Also, looked at the old part and it was a crappy chinese knock off one according to the shop (previous owner must have already replaced before), so that might be part of the reason it was so hard to get it out.

Last edited by linuxfreakus; 03-14-2013 at 01:25 PM.
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Old 03-19-2013, 06:48 AM   #188
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I've been riding on Eibach springs & Koni shox for a few years now. No regrets.
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Old 04-22-2013, 08:23 AM   #189
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tried to replace the front axles last night, but couldn't get the axle nut off the car! Whoever installed the axle nut smashed the tabs in pretty good...any tips on getting them off?
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Old 04-22-2013, 08:34 AM   #190
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tried to replace the front axles last night, but couldn't get the axle nut off the car! Whoever installed the axle nut smashed the tabs in pretty good...any tips on getting them off?
Try grinding the tabs out.
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Old 04-22-2013, 08:58 AM   #191
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I just use a punch and/or chisel. Be careful of the threads if you aren't changing axles.
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Old 01-02-2014, 12:00 AM   #192
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Replaced the left front with Cardone from Rockauto, and they are clunking and vibrating even at low spreads. Anyone have this issue?
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Old 01-02-2014, 08:01 AM   #193
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Those Cardones are the ones I used from Rock Auto, and didn't have any issue. I installed the passenger side, and it was such a bitch, I paid someone to install the drivers.

My next step in this vibration ridiculousness is to change out the motor mounts.
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Old 01-02-2014, 10:25 AM   #194
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It just feels like the left front is wobbling...
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Old 01-02-2014, 02:07 PM   #195
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So from my experience in installing this axle, it was a super B****, I've installed other axles, and for some reason, the splines on these were especially difficult to remove and then replace. I didn't have a press and I had to remove the knuckle arm hub assembly from the strut. I had to pull apart the inner joint boot and then proceeded to remove the axle by hammering it out of the arm knuckle hub assembly. It eventually came out...the inner axle remained on the differential. This I also had to tap out, by crawling under the car which of course was already on jack stands. The inner seals were also difficult to remove. I pieced it out carefully, having to cut out a wedge with a chisel and hammer. I inspected the inner surface and found no damage. I tapped in a new Victor Reinz Seal. I thought I could reach the motor mount but it was impossible to turn the top bolt off. I also did not have the large hex bolt remover to replace the differential oil.
So I installed a Cardone axle from Rockauto. The inner spline would not go in easily despite reassuring proper alignment and some mild grease application. I then had tap it in with the outer spline partially installed and rocking it in. Finally hearing a click and snap sound I inspected that the inner CV was flushed on the differential. I then worked on sliding the outer spline in after properly aligning the knuckle arm on the strut and tightening the bolt. I replaced the control arm, steering rod, and the end links. I had to also tap the hub into spline to be able to finally place the locking nut in. I replaced the disk and then the calipers. Tightening the bolts down. I put the wheel on and voila, vibration and clunking noises...
I was hoping I was going to cruise through the re- install, but each time it was difficult. For instance the strut kept turning and was difficult to slide the knuckle in place. It was also difficult to reattach the end link because the strut was turned.
Anyway, any ideas?
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Old 01-05-2014, 10:39 AM   #196
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Chilton

Not sure what your question is...
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Old 01-05-2014, 03:00 PM   #197
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Why is it vibrating?
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Old 01-05-2014, 03:14 PM   #198
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Probably either a defective axle or you damaged a cv joint during installation (if you were pounding on it from the hub end to seat it). Assuming this is a new vibration since the repair.

I think the quality on the Cardones is totally random. I changed out my drivers side, and it's fine so far. I then did the pass side, and the first one I got looked like it was a rebuilt aftermarket (not OEM) so I swapped it at OReillys for a different one. That one was undersize where it sits in the seal and leaked. I swapped it for a GKN.
If you look at other peoples posts about Cardones here, the consensus seems to be that the new ones are crap, and the rebuilts could be OK, or could be junk. I thought it was worth a try, but from now on, it's GKN for me.

Make sure you get a wrench for your fill cap and top off (or better yet change) your dif fluid.
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Old 01-05-2014, 04:17 PM   #199
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I agree on that...I purchased a gkn and waiting for a chance to put it on
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Old 01-05-2014, 04:36 PM   #200
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I've had bad experiences with A1Cardone & a Chinese brand. GKN is the only way to go.
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