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Old 01-26-2013, 08:47 AM   #3261
sg_wannabe
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Greg, not sure if these questions have been asked (i.e. i did not read the entire thread), but i have a few:
1. what do you recommend that is 100% safe to clean anodized wheels?

i was planning on using a dilution of p21s total auto wash on the wheels when they are cold

2. what do you recommend for protection/sealant for the wheels?

i was told that prima wheel armour is safe. i have a brand new bottle of that. i had used poorboy's world wheel sealant on clearcoated wheels in the past and was happy with the results/protection. i was also told that this product is safe for anodized finishes/surfaces.

3. what wax do you recommend for the painted surfaces under the hood?

i am looking for a high temp wax. so far, i have only confirmed auto finesse mint rims wheel wax as being one.

tia.
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Old 02-04-2013, 01:28 PM   #3262
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I apologize I didn't get to this thread sooner! I'm going to answer some of the more recent questions now. If you ever need a quicker response please e-mail us at support at detailed image dot com.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bullfrogs_M3 View Post
Other than Esoteric Auto's training/certification, can you offer any other good training programs/classes? I would like to expand into doing some detail jobs on the side and would like to have some additional training first to verify my process.
The Esoteric Elite Detailer Academy is awesome and I highly recommend it! Another option closer to you would be the The Detailing Pros in CA, which is also awesome. They do a great job of not only teaching you quality detail work but it's a long lasting group that sticks together long past graduation. Good luck!

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Old 02-04-2013, 01:38 PM   #3263
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TitanSilverE46 View Post
I have just purchased a 2001 E46 318i that must have been parked in the street for many years as after washing it carefully and trying to polish, the surface was still very rough.

Having searched for this thread, and finding it now stretches to 163 pages, I copied and read carefully posts 4, 5 and 6 from George of Detailed Images.

Now I have been working around motorbikes and cars for over 50 years and have never used clay before, but George's post convinced me to give it a try.

Here in Australia, many of the brands mentioned are not available, and after 7 years since the thread started, I am sure recommendations have changed, but who is going to read 163 pages to find the latest?

I purchased a pack of Mother's California Gold Clay Bar from my local Auto Store and set to work. For a few seconds you could feel the clay working and then it just glided over the surface. Even my 7-year-old grandson was amazed at the feel of the areas done compared to those yet to do.

Where has this stuff been? I was always scared to use such a product fearing it would scratch and damage the duco.

I am amazed and recommend those that have not tried it to do so.

I have still to polish the car but already it is looking magnificent.
Glad to hear the thread has been helpful. Locally in Australia I'd recommend http://www.carcareproducts.com.au/, they have a great selection and Mike is great to work with.

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Old 02-04-2013, 01:47 PM   #3264
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ngillan View Post
Just looking for a quick answer to a couple quick questions:
I just purchased poorboy's SSR 2.5 and SSR1 from detailed image. How much of the product should I apply to the paint (using a pad or microfiber towel)? Do I need to do the whole car to make it look even or can I just do certain areas? I plan on using these 2 products after a wash. Am I done with my car after using the SSR or is it a MUST that I apply a polish or wax after the SSR?
I would generally suggest applying the SSR 2.5 and SSR 1 to the whole vehicle for best results. If you have a few areas that need the SSR 2.5 you could just do them but then do the whole rest of the vehicle with the SSR 1. These polishes should help remove ultra imperfections and oxidation from the surface. The leave no protection behind so I'd highly recommend applying a sealant or wax afterward to enhance the shine you just created and protect the finish. Good luck!

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Old 02-04-2013, 01:56 PM   #3265
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Originally Posted by kaboo0m View Post
Greg,

Are these scratches removalable? paint in question is original factory single stage paint (black)
Are you sure the paint is single stage?

It's always hard to tell from a picture but I'm optimistic you can make a big improvement in the finish of the paint. A small portion of the scratch looks a bit too deep, but again hard to say. I would highly recommend you wash and clay the surface to help clean it. Next start off with a light polish like the Meguiar's Ultra Finishing Polish M205 but most likely you'll need to move up to the Meguiar's Ultra-Cut Compound M105 to remove more of the imperfections. Follow up the M105 with the M205 to remove any haze left behind and that area should look significantly better. Good luck!

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Old 02-04-2013, 02:32 PM   #3266
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Originally Posted by sg_wannabe View Post
Greg, not sure if these questions have been asked (i.e. i did not read the entire thread), but i have a few:
1. what do you recommend that is 100% safe to clean anodized wheels?

i was planning on using a dilution of p21s total auto wash on the wheels when they are cold

2. what do you recommend for protection/sealant for the wheels?

i was told that prima wheel armour is safe. i have a brand new bottle of that. i had used poorboy's world wheel sealant on clearcoated wheels in the past and was happy with the results/protection. i was also told that this product is safe for anodized finishes/surfaces.

3. what wax do you recommend for the painted surfaces under the hood?

i am looking for a high temp wax. so far, i have only confirmed auto finesse mint rims wheel wax as being one.

tia.
Glad to help!

1.) I would avoid cleaning those wheels in direct sun when possible, because often times the mineral deposits in water can leave residue behind or tech in to the wheels as it dries. If you do work in direct sun rinse them frequently. For maintenance cleanings soap and water is just fine. When you need a stronger cleaner the SONAX Wheel Cleaner Full Effect is top notch and it should be safe on all finishes including anodized wheels. To be safe I still always recommend testing a small area with any new product on any new surface.

The P21S Wheel Cleaner should also be safe on those wheels, but I haven't use P21S TAW on them to say for sure.

2.) I haven't used Prima so I don't have any experience to share there. For normal protection the Poorboy's World Wheel Sealant is top notch! It is very resistant to high temperature brake dust and it should help contaminants rinse clean.

Another option has recently come about for wheel protection called the 22ple VM1 Rim and Metal Coating. This stuff is incredibly strong and resistant to contaminants and brake dust. It should protect the wheels for a year or more! It's more expensive but it does work really well and the wheels look great afterward.

3.) Sealants are far more resistant to heat than any natural wax, so I'd highly recommend a sealant for under the hood. If you have a sealant handy you can certainly use that. If not the Klasse All In One (AIO) is one of my favorites, it's very durable and it helps clean while protecting.

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Old 02-04-2013, 03:45 PM   #3267
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg@DetailedImage.com View Post
Glad to help!

1.) I would avoid cleaning those wheels in direct sun when possible, because often times the mineral deposits in water can leave residue behind or tech in to the wheels as it dries. If you do work in direct sun rinse them frequently. For maintenance cleanings soap and water is just fine. When you need a stronger cleaner the SONAX Wheel Cleaner Full Effect is top notch and it should be safe on all finishes including anodized wheels. To be safe I still always recommend testing a small area with any new product on any new surface.

The P21S Wheel Cleaner should also be safe on those wheels, but I haven't use P21S TAW on them to say for sure.

2.) I haven't used Prima so I don't have any experience to share there. For normal protection the Poorboy's World Wheel Sealant is top notch! It is very resistant to high temperature brake dust and it should help contaminants rinse clean.

Another option has recently come about for wheel protection called the 22ple VM1 Rim and Metal Coating. This stuff is incredibly strong and resistant to contaminants and brake dust. It should protect the wheels for a year or more! It's more expensive but it does work really well and the wheels look great afterward.

3.) Sealants are far more resistant to heat than any natural wax, so I'd highly recommend a sealant for under the hood. If you have a sealant handy you can certainly use that. If not the Klasse All In One (AIO) is one of my favorites, it's very durable and it helps clean while protecting.

Greg @ DI
thanks for replying w/ your detailed post.

gotcha on not cleaning in direct sun. i never do but this is a good reminder
i already use sonax for wheels, so i am set there.

i have used poorboys wheel sealant before on clearcoated wheels and loved it. i try as sealant on the anodized wheels.

yeah, i actually was gonna ask about 22ple. as far as you know, is it safe on anodized finish for sure? i was not able to get a confirmation on this.

i have menzerna power lock but also have lots of klasse AIO left. i can use the latter.

thanks again.
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Old 02-04-2013, 11:10 PM   #3268
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What are your thoughts on the drivethrew brown bear car washes?

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Old 02-14-2013, 08:48 PM   #3269
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Whats best way to remove scratches in clear coat?

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Old 04-04-2013, 10:33 PM   #3270
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Hello Greg

I have a black sedan and was wondering what would be the process of meguair products I should use? How is meguairs ultimate compound?
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Old 04-06-2013, 11:35 AM   #3271
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M105, M205, then what?

Greg,
My BMW 330Ci TiSilber looks fine but I'd like to take it to the next level as far reflectivity and clarity. So, what should I use? 1800 grid wet paper?

Thanks,
Mark
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Old 04-07-2013, 05:24 AM   #3272
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Hi. I am painting my car doing a full co lour change from topaz blue to ford frozen white with blue pearl through the clear coat. i am aware that you cant wax the car for a certain time. im wondering is it still okay to snow foam it and hand wash it and what products can i put on to protect the paint and give off a nice lasting shine?

thanks Robaidh
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Old 04-26-2013, 01:19 PM   #3273
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Hi D.I., I'm sure the answer is in this thread, but even with a search I couldn't find it. I recently purchased about everything I need for wash/dry and polish (foam gun, mitts, orbital polisher, all the bits and pieces and soaps and polishes etc) And plan on doing my first polish soon. I get confused on the sealant process. I have some chemical guys citrus wash, which I understand will remove any wax/sealant that is on the car. What's the process at this point if I want to wash/dry, clay bar, polish and apply new sealant? Thanks!
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Old 06-02-2013, 06:03 PM   #3274
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I'm not sure if this has been asked but, my friend gave me a tire shine to use on my ///M and it dried out my tires and it looks horrible. Is there any product out there you would recommend to use to fix this ? I find myself with a nicely washed and clean car with these dried out looking tires. Thanks.
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Old 06-12-2013, 07:33 PM   #3275
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Would you be willing to set up a package and discount code for e46fanatics members for a complete DIYer setup soap, was towels, mitts, polish, clay bar, wax, etc of your recommended products? Thanks.
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Old 03-08-2014, 12:34 PM   #3276
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Hello all,

My name is Ivan and I will do my best to help out on the forums for the foreseeable future. Greg the owner has been extremely busy keeping up with the growth of Detailed Image (in large thanks to this forum), but didn't want to keep the forums unattended. I'll try to revisit as many threads and messages as possible, but if I miss something I encourage anyone to either post again or send a private message with any inquiries. I am a professional detailer in the Chicagoland area and I have been working with Detailed Image on a variety of projects for well over 5 years now. You can read more about myself as well as some articles I have written over the years on my profile page of the DI Ask-a-Pro Blog. I'm very happy to be getting back into the forum world and hope to assist many of you with any questions on car detailing products or techniques.

Oh and for what it's worth, I am a big BMW nut myself, with my favorite being an E36 M3. Over the past 8 years I've had the joy of driving a 98 328i, 99 M3, 87 325e (winter beater during my M3 ownership), 93 325i and a 95 525i. Currently I only enjoy my Yamaha R6 and a Mazda work wagon, but I did talk my wife into a 95 325iC (which she quickly learned to love) and hope to pick up another E36 M3 within the next 1-2 years.

Well anyway, enough about me, let's get back on the topic of car detailing!

Ivan @ DI


Quote:
Originally Posted by olivierE46M3 View Post
Whats best way to remove scratches in clear coat?

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Olivier, depending on how deep the scratches are, you are looking at least at some polishing, but for deeper scratches wet sanding might be necessary. Sometimes a scratch is so deep in the clear coat or completely through the clear coat that a repaint is the only safe way to completely fix it.

If you're looking to remove some lighter scratches and swirl marks yourself, you can get a good idea of what's involved through or Polishing Guide.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ZHPinthe103 View Post
Hello Greg

I have a black sedan and was wondering what would be the process of meguair products I should use? How is meguairs ultimate compound?
I don't have much experience with Meg's Ultimate Compound because I mainly use either their M105 or M100 compounds. I have however heard good things about the ultimate compound and it sounds like it's fairly aggressive, so I would be careful when using it. Meguiar's 205 finishing polish is also a great product from Meguiar's and something I highly recommend.

Do you have any tools and products already? Any experience with polishing? I'd be more than happy to recommend a polishing kit for you, like the Porter Cable 7424XP 5.5" Starter Kit, or put something custom together based on what you need.

Ivan @ DI

Quote:
Originally Posted by markusmarkus View Post
Greg,
My BMW 330Ci TiSilber looks fine but I'd like to take it to the next level as far reflectivity and clarity. So, what should I use? 1800 grid wet paper?

Thanks,
Mark
Mark, have you done any polishing on the 330 already? I'm not sure if you need to look into sanding unless there's some bigger issue with the clear coat or the orange peel is really bad and bugging you. Otherwise, a proper polishing session should bring up the level of gloss and clarity quite a bit. Actually, we're discussing the gloss level of silver paint in this thread, so it may be worth to check it out... Why do silver cars tend to lose their lustre?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Robaidh View Post
Hi. I am painting my car doing a full co lour change from topaz blue to ford frozen white with blue pearl through the clear coat. i am aware that you cant wax the car for a certain time. im wondering is it still okay to snow foam it and hand wash it and what products can i put on to protect the paint and give off a nice lasting shine?

thanks Robaidh
You are correct in that when repainting a car, always follow the body shop's advice on how long to wait before sealing the paint whether it's wax, sealant, coating, clear bra, etc. Basically, you shouldn't use anything on the paint that can stick to it and prevent it from properly curing. Some quick detailers are ok to use, but many contain silicone and waxes that may be detrimental to your paint curing. However, you can surely wash as necessary and use a foam gun, but again, stick with pure soaps to avoid any issues during the recommended time period for paint curing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tacomeat1 View Post
Hi D.I., I'm sure the answer is in this thread, but even with a search I couldn't find it. I recently purchased about everything I need for wash/dry and polish (foam gun, mitts, orbital polisher, all the bits and pieces and soaps and polishes etc) And plan on doing my first polish soon. I get confused on the sealant process. I have some chemical guys citrus wash, which I understand will remove any wax/sealant that is on the car. What's the process at this point if I want to wash/dry, clay bar, polish and apply new sealant? Thanks!
Chemical Guys have a few citrus wash soaps, but I assume you're talking about the simple Citrus Wash? Either way, none of them will simply strip wax/sealant on the car if used at the recommended ratio. While some of the soaps are meant to be more aggressive than others, they still need to be used at a certain mixing ratio and might need to be used for 2-3 washes to completely strip off a wax or sealant.

So, if you're looking to strip anything on the paint before going through your process of clay bar, polish, etc., I would simply use 1-2oz of the Citrus Wash per gallon of water (maybe give it 2 washes) to try and strip most of whatever is on there already. Then, you will surely remove the rest through the claying and polishing process.

On the other hand, if you're worried about removing wax/sealant after you're done with everything, simply use a lesser ratio (something like 1/2oz to gallon of water) or switch to their Wash & Gloss soap as it's less aggressive.

Other than that, you're right in terms of process... wash thorough 1-2 maybe even 3 times to try and strip off old wax/sealant, clay bar, polish and apply new sealant.

Hope that helps!
Ivan @ DI

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hockeyguy02 View Post
I'm not sure if this has been asked but, my friend gave me a tire shine to use on my ///M and it dried out my tires and it looks horrible. Is there any product out there you would recommend to use to fix this ? I find myself with a nicely washed and clean car with these dried out looking tires. Thanks.
This question pops up every now and then, but the answer is always the same. If you look up the words "Blooming" and "Antiozonant" on google you'll find a ton of information on the subject. In short, tires are manufactured in such a way that they will start turning brown over time in order to prevent the outside from cracking and deteriorating. There's no magic product that will prevent the tires from turning brown, but there are products that may accelerate the process. Key is to simply keep the tires clean and whenever you wash the car, make sure the tires are properly washed of all the dirt, chemicals and previous tire dressing if any. A lot of people just keep layering on tire dressing, which makes the tires look good only for a few days before whatever is underneath comes through.

As for products, I mostly use Meguiar's Hyper Dressing at different ratios, normally 3:1 (3 parts water to 1 part dressing).

Quote:
Originally Posted by 330eyeGUY View Post
Would you be willing to set up a package and discount code for e46fanatics members for a complete DIYer setup soap, was towels, mitts, polish, clay bar, wax, etc of your recommended products? Thanks.
We already have a discount code for the forum and it's "10offe46" so you're more than welcome to use that whenever you place an order.

As for kits, we have various packages already set up (DI Packages) at a great discount (code doesn't work on those as they're normally already at least 10% off or more). However, I am always happy to work with anyone individually to put together a somewhat custom list together based on what you want to buy and what you're looking to accomplish with your car in terms of detailing. Simply shoot me a message or even better post here or in a new thread on the detail forum so others can use it as a guide going forward.

Ivan @ DI
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Old 03-16-2014, 06:14 PM   #3277
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Detailed Image View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg@DetailedImage.com View Post
I have a quick question for ya,
I noticed my leather looks pretty bad.
I am wondering how can I restore this back to somewhat good condition?
I have been reading around supposedly leatherique rejuvenator oil is my best bet with a lot of heat for a few hours?
If you look it at it, it looks almost like wrinkly or like crocodile leather.
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Old 03-16-2014, 06:33 PM   #3278
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Justinz View Post
I have a quick question for ya,
I noticed my leather looks pretty bad.
I am wondering how can I restore this back to somewhat good condition?
I have been reading around supposedly leatherique rejuvenator oil is my best bet with a lot of heat for a few hours?
If you look it at it, it looks almost like wrinkly or like crocodile leather.
I have always liked and would definitely recommend Leatherique Rejuvenator Oil and Prestine Clean to do an initial cleaning and protection of the leather.

As far as the condition of your leather is concerned, did it look different before and changed? Leatherique, or any other leather products, won't fix or improve cracks, wrinkles, etc. It will simply clean it up well and help prevent future cracks/wrinkles in leather. If all your seats are the same texture there's a chance that's how it came or that's the nature progression of that leather.

I hope that helps a bit.

Ivan @ DI
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Old 03-23-2014, 10:00 AM   #3279
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Speeding the drying time of interior after detailing

Hello Ivan,

I had my 2002 325xiT detailed 13 days ago (after purchasing it about 3 weeks ago), and it took a long time for the interior foot well carpet areas to dry after they were shampooed/steam cleaned (or whatever it was the detailer did). I live in Toronto where we've had an unusually long and cold winter, and I kept the car in the sun with the windows open a bit whenever I could to help the inside dry after it was detailed. I also kept the protective boot mats off the foot well areas whenever the car was not being driven so that the carpets could dry. But even 10 days later I noticed that the carpets were still holding some moisture, and I was concerned that they might develop mildew. Then I decided to use a hairdryer to help dry the foot well areas, and this did help to some extent. Today is day 13 after detailing and everything finally seems fine.

In the future I'll know not to get the carpets shampooed in the really cold weather! I'm new to this, so I've learned that Spring and Fall are better times to detail my car! Other than that, are there any other recommendations you might suggest to help speed the drying time of the foot well carpets? And, do you think the detailing place might have used a cleaning method that resulted in too much moisture deposited on the carpets?

With the wonderful information you and other experts from DI have so generously shared on this detailing forum (which I just discovered last night), I plan to purchase a detailing kit from you and do all future detailing myself. I'll be in touch to place an order over the phone, as I read an earlier post indicating that Canadians must order this way rather than via your website. Thank you!
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Old 03-23-2014, 11:25 PM   #3280
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Hello Ivan,

I had my 2002 325xiT detailed 13 days ago (after purchasing it about 3 weeks ago), and it took a long time for the interior foot well carpet areas to dry after they were shampooed/steam cleaned (or whatever it was the detailer did). I live in Toronto where we've had an unusually long and cold winter, and I kept the car in the sun with the windows open a bit whenever I could to help the inside dry after it was detailed. I also kept the protective boot mats off the foot well areas whenever the car was not being driven so that the carpets could dry. But even 10 days later I noticed that the carpets were still holding some moisture, and I was concerned that they might develop mildew. Then I decided to use a hairdryer to help dry the foot well areas, and this did help to some extent. Today is day 13 after detailing and everything finally seems fine.

In the future I'll know not to get the carpets shampooed in the really cold weather! I'm new to this, so I've learned that Spring and Fall are better times to detail my car! Other than that, are there any other recommendations you might suggest to help speed the drying time of the foot well carpets? And, do you think the detailing place might have used a cleaning method that resulted in too much moisture deposited on the carpets?

With the wonderful information you and other experts from DI have so generously shared on this detailing forum (which I just discovered last night), I plan to purchase a detailing kit from you and do all future detailing myself. I'll be in touch to place an order over the phone, as I read an earlier post indicating that Canadians must order this way rather than via your website. Thank you!
Definitely happy to help! First off, I believe you didn't get the proper interior job done. Any detail place who does such interior work should have the proper equipment to dry a car before delivery to the customer. Stuff like large fans, air movers, dehumidifiers, etc. will all help dry a cars carpets and upholstery after a thorough interior shampoo/cleaning.

On the other hand, if you must get the car still damp and dry it yourself, you may have to look at more DIY type solutions rather than buying a bunch of tools that you will rarely use. One simple solution is using the heat from the vehicle (usually put it on feet to help blow directly on carpets) while driving or just have the car idling. Also letting it sit out in the sun (obviously in warmer weather only) with windows cracked open a bit. Aside from that, the simple and logical blowing air at it will dry it, but how quickly will depend on what you're using to blow that air. Hair dryer is probably your least effective option, whereas placing even a smaller 12-18" room fan will help do it much faster.

I'm much more experienced on exterior work and paint polishing, but again I'd say your main thing is finding someone to do the job properly in the first place, so you don't have to bother with actually finishing the job.

Hope that helps!

Ivan @ DI
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