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General E46 Forum
This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW!

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Old 04-21-2013, 06:05 PM   #1161
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Thank u mango. Only few more questions. Does car need to be on jack stands(front of the car) during this procedure? And what temperature car need to reach while running? After finishing bleeding i mean.
lifting the car helps bleeding. i don't know anything about 318 model temps. sorry.
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Old 04-22-2013, 10:03 AM   #1162
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You know what..i'll do my own procedure and than i'll make DIY for M43 engine. BEcause if the engine temperature rise up to 105 degrees there should be different procedure. Mango's DIY is for cars under 100 degrees.
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Old 04-22-2013, 10:11 AM   #1163
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You know what..i'll do my own procedure and than i'll make DIY for M43 engine. BEcause if the engine temperature rise up to 105 degrees there should be different procedure. Mango's DIY is for cars under 100 degrees.
Why would that make a difference? A 50/50 mix will have a boiling point well above 100C
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Old 04-22-2013, 10:13 AM   #1164
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We are not talking about mixture. I am talking about M43 engine. And it looks like that this engine reach higher temperature than other one. And it needs special bleeding procedure(when it is hot) otherwise air bubbles will be in system.
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Old 04-24-2013, 09:19 PM   #1165
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I have a $225 credit at BMAautoparts...has anyone bought all of their cooling overhaul parts from that website? If so, what brand did you get for the WP, ET, and Thermostat? Thanks
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Old 04-24-2013, 11:36 PM   #1166
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I have a $225 credit at BMAautoparts...has anyone bought all of their cooling overhaul parts from that website? If so, what brand did you get for the WP, ET, and Thermostat? Thanks
i should do a mango recommendation list of brands

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Old 04-26-2013, 04:13 PM   #1167
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* E46 Cooling Guide (Information w/parts list/bleeding) *

Well mango you seem to be the authority so let me ask you. I'm a little tight on funds lately and I believe my cooling system is stock. What are the most critical components that need replaced. From what I read it's et and water pump but I thought I'd ask. Thanks


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Old 04-26-2013, 04:17 PM   #1168
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Well mango you seem to be the authority so let me ask you. I'm a little tight on funds lately and I believe my cooling system is stock. What are the most critical components that need replaced. From what I read it's et and water pump but I thought I'd ask. Thanks


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IMO: expansion tank, cap, upper hose (only because you're breaking the original seal by replacing the expansion tank), thermostat, belts and pullies. Fan switch if you have an extra $20 on top of all that.

Should cost you $60 + $10 + $20 + $50 + $10 + $7 + $20 + $20 + $20 + $20 = $237

That's if you're on a tight budget. I honestly wouldn't recommend any less than that at an absolute bare minimum.
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Old 04-26-2013, 05:19 PM   #1169
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If you want to stretch things, but make sure you avoid dire fails, you could remove your water pump and make sure you do not have a plastic impeller, nor is the bearing getting sloppy. If you have metal, put it back in with a new O-ring gasket.

Also you can monitor the thermostat operation by using the OBC hidden functions. It you're holding solid around the 95 degrees C level, wait till you see the beginning of a slow fail before you even think about replacing.

Def do the ET!

Got an automatic? Uh-oh!

Last edited by Stinger9; 04-26-2013 at 05:21 PM.
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Old 04-26-2013, 05:21 PM   #1170
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If you want to stretch things, but make sure you avoid dire fails, you could remove your water pump and make sure you do not have a plastic impeller, nor is the bearing getting sloppy. If you have metal, put it back in with a new O-ring gasket.

Also you can monitor the thermostat operation by using the OBC hidden functions. It you're holding solid around the 95 degrees C level, wait till you see the beginning of a slow fail before you even think about replacing.

Def do the ET!
The material of the impeller is irrelevant.
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Old 04-26-2013, 05:25 PM   #1171
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The material of the impeller is irrelevant.
au contraire mon frere
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Old 04-26-2013, 09:18 PM   #1172
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The material of the impeller is irrelevant.
Wrong! You do not want the Red Light of Death with a Plastic Impeller.

ALways go for the Stewart WP or one with the Metal Impeller. Plastic and BMWs do not mix@!!
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Old 04-26-2013, 11:42 PM   #1173
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Wrong! You do not want the Red Light of Death with a Plastic Impeller.

ALways go for the Stewart WP or one with the Metal Impeller. Plastic and BMWs do not mix@!!
no
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Old 04-27-2013, 12:21 AM   #1174
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no
Da!
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Old 04-27-2013, 02:45 PM   #1175
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I don't think any of the non-M impellers are plastic anymore. It's either metal or composite. The composite is superior; less load on the bearings.

Nothing inherently wrong with plastic either. S54 pump is plastic, and I've never heard of the impeller failing. Bearings on occasion, but that's pretty rare.

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Old 04-27-2013, 06:52 PM   #1176
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I don't think any of the non-M impellers are plastic anymore. It's either metal or composite. The composite is superior; less load on the bearings.

Nothing inherently wrong with plastic either. S54 pump is plastic, and I've never heard of the impeller failing. Bearings on occasion, but that's pretty rare.
Correct. I've explained this several times before but newcomers (and even old-timers alike) keep shouting plastic evil plastic evil and try to challenge anything else. It's caveman-like and doesn't look at the big picture.

The current (extremely old--at least a decade) design is plastic composite. For all intents and purpose, we refer to it as "plastic." To people like the above, anything not metal is "plastic" and sucks. Nothing could be further from the truth.

As I've posted in several threads, there are tons of other considerations to take into account when considering a water pump. In the end, all the current designs both OE and aftermarket are great and serve their intended life expectancy and purpose quite well. Not sure why people keep zeroing in on the "plastic water pumps." pretty much every OE E46 pump lasts 100k+ miles.

Nobody should even bring up the word water pump ever except when telling us they ordered a new one. Theres nothing to discuss. It's just another component that needs to be replaced.
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Old 04-27-2013, 07:33 PM   #1177
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I can testify to the longevity of the original water pump with "plastic" impellers
I just replaced mine after nearly 12 years and 173k miles of service without failure


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Old 04-27-2013, 08:56 PM   #1178
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Student of statistical analysis?

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I can testify to the longevity of the original water pump with "plastic" impellers
I just replaced mine after nearly 12 years and 173k miles of service without failure
That proves it all. Nothing more need ever be said.
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Old 04-27-2013, 10:48 PM   #1179
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Checked a coolant leak. It's the thermostat I put on a few weeks ago.
The only good news is, at first I thought it was the headgasket.
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Old 04-27-2013, 11:16 PM   #1180
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Checked a coolant leak. It's the thermostat I put on a few weeks ago.
Cause was defective gasket?
Or cracked housing?
Or bad seal to hose?

What BRAND did you install?
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