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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 04-24-2013, 10:33 PM   #621
Riverbmr3
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if i replace my WR with a new one, do you guys suggest the zip tie method now in case it fail in the future?

Last edited by Riverbmr3; 04-24-2013 at 10:33 PM.
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Old 04-25-2013, 12:04 PM   #622
John in VA
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Originally Posted by pinoybmr3 View Post
if i replace my WR with a new one, do you guys suggest the zip tie method now in case it fail in the future?
Why not? It might give you a few extra cycles.
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Old 04-25-2013, 02:11 PM   #623
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Originally Posted by John in VA View Post
Why not? It might give you a few extra cycles.
thats what i thought
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Old 04-25-2013, 09:39 PM   #624
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pinoybmr3 View Post
if i replace my WR with a new one, do you guys suggest the zip tie method now in case it fail in the future?
Yes.
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Old 04-26-2013, 10:30 PM   #625
Riverbmr3
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just did mine today by about two hours but maybe next time its gonna be faster, i replaced with a new one but i did zip tie it and fixed the old one with zip tie as well, thanks to this forum.
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Old 04-27-2013, 08:16 PM   #626
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Hi all,

Just wanted to add, I fixed my passenger side window following these steps and it worked like a charm. I will be doing the driver side tomorrow.

Awesome posts people!

Cheers
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Old 05-05-2013, 12:08 AM   #627
1ball
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Driver side done today.... thanks for the write-up
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Old 05-05-2013, 08:12 PM   #628
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Fantastic write-up! Thanks for taking the time to document the procedure. I fixed my front passenger side today.
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Old 05-10-2013, 03:40 PM   #629
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Unhappy Regulator is back in but I can't get it up!

Aaaargh! I did my right rear regulator last year with no problems. Now I'm in the middle of doing the right front.... with a definite problem.

This one wasn't as messed up as the right rear so I went with the ziptie approach instead of buying a new unit. I had one broken part on one plastic clip but went ahead and ziptied both sides of both clips as shown in the DIYs.

I've got enough bits and pieces back together to test things. With the window unattached, the carrier pieces move up and down as they should. But with the window attached, the motor runs out of steam with the window about 60% of the way up. It slows down, is obviously straining, then just stops. Also, note that it is pretty difficult for me to physically push the window (when not attached to the regulator) all the way up. The DIY says to tape it in place so it doesn't fall while you're removing/installing the regulator...... no way I need to do that. It's a tight friction fit up there as it is!

So I'm thinking the motor may be going out and is weak, but, since it's so hard for me to get the window all the way up by pushing it manually, I'm also thinking something else might be wrong there. I've installed/uninstalled/reinstalled everything twice now and can't see anything that might be interfering with the window's path. Suggestions?

By the way, it's an '02 325i with about 56k miles.
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Old 05-10-2013, 03:47 PM   #630
Riverbmr3
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The purpose of bringing the window glass up is to clear up the path so you can take out your regulators, upon installation you need to lower the glass so you can re-attach the two screws thats holding the window glass, the one with red color.
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Old 05-10-2013, 08:22 PM   #631
tpm23
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I get that. The problem is that, after re-attaching the glass with the two bolts, the lift mechanism will not move the window more than about 60% of the way up.
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Old 05-14-2013, 05:59 PM   #632
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Did my driver's side on the weekend... useful write-up.
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Old 05-16-2013, 12:18 AM   #633
knsaber
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Thank you for the write up!! I had the same symptoms, did the zip tie fix and it worked! However I have a few things to add (2005 330xi):

• I skipped step 11 as the mirror module is behind the insulation
• I skipped step 13 since I am fixing the rear slider, the front does not need to come out
• CAREFUL when using tape to hold up the glass, I used packaging tape and it peeled away my tints. I then realized the window is snug enough to stay put by itself.
• Step 16 I only removed the 2 bolts for the rear slider
• Lastly, I tried the first original method of using two zip ties parallel to each other, but it wasn't tight enough for me and there was still play in the slider and the window would still get caught sometimes, so thanks to the video below, I criss-crossed the zip ties so there won't be any play.



Good luck!
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Old 05-16-2013, 12:22 AM   #634
knsaber
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tpm23 View Post
Aaaargh! I did my right rear regulator last year with no problems. Now I'm in the middle of doing the right front.... with a definite problem.

This one wasn't as messed up as the right rear so I went with the ziptie approach instead of buying a new unit. I had one broken part on one plastic clip but went ahead and ziptied both sides of both clips as shown in the DIYs.

I've got enough bits and pieces back together to test things. With the window unattached, the carrier pieces move up and down as they should. But with the window attached, the motor runs out of steam with the window about 60% of the way up. It slows down, is obviously straining, then just stops. Also, note that it is pretty difficult for me to physically push the window (when not attached to the regulator) all the way up. The DIY says to tape it in place so it doesn't fall while you're removing/installing the regulator...... no way I need to do that. It's a tight friction fit up there as it is!

So I'm thinking the motor may be going out and is weak, but, since it's so hard for me to get the window all the way up by pushing it manually, I'm also thinking something else might be wrong there. I've installed/uninstalled/reinstalled everything twice now and can't see anything that might be interfering with the window's path. Suggestions?

By the way, it's an '02 325i with about 56k miles.
The friction with the windows is very tight unless you make sure it's aligned properly to the track. That requires you to either push the window outwards to let it slide, or grab the rear end and lift it up with enough force to "loosen" the window to slide up and down. Simple up and down force will never get it to move.
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Old 05-17-2013, 05:14 AM   #635
echung
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I changed both front and rear window regulators sometimes ago. I bought new BMW parts and found that there is only a little bit of grease on the pulley and wire.
Definitely the pulley or related parts failed after losing lubrication. Therefore, my two cents is to lubricate well on your new pulley and drive system with grease before installation.
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Old 07-18-2013, 09:57 PM   #636
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speeder View Post
Great thread... thanks to everybody for their input...Read it in it's entirety.... but I guess no one mentioned/had my same problem.

Driver Window stopped working. took the door apart, took the window motor off (<-- works fine) but, the window is stuck in the up position, which means I cant get to the bolts that hold the window to the regulator.

My guess is that the cable is stuck at some point but where??? Anyone have a guess?

Alternativly, any idea how I can get the window down a bit?

Thanks in advance.
how did u get it down?
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Old 07-20-2013, 08:41 AM   #637
UltimatePeter
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Question Concern about my window

So....
My driver side window:
It sounds very labored when it is trying to roll up.
Just bought the car, and was fine for a few days, then I heard something fall down inside the door toward the rear of the door. Since then it seems like whatever was holding the window to the rear is maybe not attached anymore?
It will still roll up, but sometimes it comes to a stop, then I have to either help the window by pulling up on the rear end, or straightening the window and then pushing the button again.

Does this sound like something the zip-tie deal would fix?
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Old 07-20-2013, 07:38 PM   #638
John in VA
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Originally Posted by UltimatePeter View Post
Does this sound like something the zip-tie deal would fix?
You'll have to look to see if the barrel has broken free from the keeper. Might need a new regulator - you can do the zip tie thing to the new one.
My Dorman regulators from Advance Auto are doing fine.
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Old 07-22-2013, 02:30 AM   #639
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Originally Posted by Jnyce718 View Post
how did u get it down?
I had same issue couldnt get to bolts, on the rear one, has a whol new mechanism and so cut the wire and was able to set free, not good but the only way
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Old 08-19-2013, 04:52 PM   #640
surveyranger
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After reading this I decided to go ahead and buy a new regulator for my front right door, but I plan to add the zip-tie fix to hopefully make it last longer. The problem is that the place where I ordered it from is telling my that it's a new, redesigned regulator (still OEM) for my '03 325i sedan. The different design apparently needs a new sound insulation ($27) panel. Since the current insulation panel is already form fitting, then it doesn't sound too implausible. I've ordered from these guys in the past with no issues. RealOEM listed the regulator part number as 51337020660 & the sound insulation as 51487114714. Those were the ones I used at the site.

Anyone ever heard of any changes to the window regulator? Thanks!

=====update=====

Bought the vapor barrier just in case...but didn't need it. Going to return it. FYI-the vapor barrier doesn't come with mastic.
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Last edited by surveyranger; 09-06-2013 at 04:24 PM. Reason: update
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