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Go Back   E46Fanatics > E46 BMW > E46 Convertible

E46 Convertible
The E46 vert forum. Talk about dropping your E46 top here.

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Old 06-27-2013, 10:13 PM   #1
avneet
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Convertible Stops at Trunk Lid

Quote:
Originally Posted by taylor192 View Post
AFAIK the trunk lid raising is controlled by the GM module, not the CVM module. If the lid won't raise I'd suspect the system doesn't know the lid unlocked and stops operation.

Does the top work in reverse? Ie if you lift the lid, manually fold the top into the storage area and rest the lid ontop can you:
1. Push the open button to get the lid to clamp down?
2. Push the close button to get the lid to raise and start closing?

Please start another thread rather than clutter this sticky since your problem appears unrelated... at this moment. There's been a couple members recently reporting issues with the top stopping in similar positions, search, hopefully they checked in with solutions.
Continuing a thread Taylor asked me to move to another thread. I've been trying to fix this for over 6 months now. Made past threads here and on other forums too but no one had this specific issue (most had wiring harness issue which caused the top to stop well before the lid).

In the sequence of the top opening, it stops where the trunk lid is supposed to open and just hangs there (no blinking light until I let go of the button). The lid itself unlocks fine and I can open it with my hand. I was thinking it could be a frayed wire in the CVM, but Taylor said the lid is controlled by the GM module. Where is that located? I will update the thread once I check tomorrow if the lid opens if I manually put the top into the trunk.
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Old 06-28-2013, 08:58 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avneet View Post
In the sequence of the top opening, it stops where the trunk lid is supposed to open and just hangs there (no blinking light until I let go of the button). The lid itself unlocks fine and I can open it with my hand. I was thinking it could be a frayed wire in the CVM, but Taylor said the lid is controlled by the GM module.
I would say that taylor192 has put you on the right track. Since there is no light blinking before you let go of the button, that means there is no "wrong" signal going to the controller - it likely hasn't received the signal yet that the lid is unlocked and thus will not proceed with pressurizing the tonneau cover lift cylinders.

It would be much more unlikely for the following, other possibilities to occur:
1) The controller gets the correct signal but doesn't proceed
2) The controller passes the signal to the valve pressurizing the tonneau cover lift cylinders but the valve doesn't open

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Old 06-28-2013, 10:11 AM   #3
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avneet,

Please familiarize yourself with the PDFs that describe how the top operates. Here are the steps to open the top:

• Top Switch Pressed “Open”
• CVM activates the top lock motor and the top is unlocked and raised past the tension point (LED switch flashing).
• At the same time, the CVM signals the GM to lower the windows (if closed) for approximately 1.5 seconds.
• Top lock motor is switched OFF - signal from cowl released hall sensor (S145).
• CVM activates hydraulic pump and switches the tension bow solenoid (V4) to raise the tension bow.
• Tension bow is raised to its vertical position - signal from tensioning bow angle hall sensor.
• CVM signals GM to unlock storage compartment cover.
• Storage compartment cover unlocked - signal from motor hall sensor (S700) - storage cover lock motor is switched off.
• CVM receives status of cover lock from GM over K-bus - switches storage cover solenoid (V1).
• Storage cover raised to its open position - signal from cover hall sensor (S188).
• CVM switches to the lowering solenoid for the tension bow (V3) - top starts lowering into storage compartment.
• CVM switches the main pillar solenoid (v2) - top is fully lowered into storage
compartment.
• CVM switches solenoid for top cover (V1) - cover is lowered - signal from storage cover lock hall sensors (S161 and S158).
• CVM signals GM to lock storage compartment cover.
• GM activates cover lock motor - cover is pulled closed by lock assemblies.
• GM switches off lock motor - signal from motor hall sensor (S700).
• CVM switches off hydraulics and LED.

Your top seems to get stuck at the underlined step. This is why I wanted you to try the 2 things I listed. #1 performs essentially the same step, just to lock the storage lid. #2 performs the exact same step to unlock the lid before opening.

Please report back once you've tried both.
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Old 07-01-2013, 12:40 PM   #4
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Convertible Stops at Trunk Lid

Check fluid level of pump. With top down and cover closed, fluid should be between top and bottom of circle on reservoir



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Old 07-01-2013, 10:28 PM   #5
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Sorry I took so long. It's been 100 degrees here these past few days so I was waiting for the coolest time I could.

1. I tried this. I held the open top button until the part it stops where the lid is supposed to open. I turned off the car and proceeded putting it into the trunk and closing the lid. I first lift it slightly open an inch, then pressed the open top button. Nothing happened at all (no blinking lights either). Same thing when I closed the lid completely. Didn't lock. It seems like it thought the sequence was done.

2. When I pressed the close top button, I could heard the sequence start with the lid lock opening. From there nothing happened. Lid still wouldn't open.

3. Also to note. When I first tried to open the top using the switch for step one: When it reached the lid opening part, I just unpressed the button first and walked over and lifted the lid. When I let the lid go, it stayed up at about a 35-40 degree angle (but not as much as it would on it's own without touching it). Only when I turned off the car to put it in manually did it fall.

Cinredman. I will check that next when I get through this 100 degree weather. Though I have never had any liquid leak out anywhere that I've seen. Assuming I'll have to take my trunk apart. Spent so long mounting a fire extinguished to the left side. Just my luck.
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Old 07-02-2013, 10:19 AM   #6
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That sucks. I think you're going to need a shop or dealership to monitor what is happening with the top.

Since the back window raises during the top open sequence, I would say it is probably not a hydraulic problem, yet it would be good to rule that out by checking the fluid level. The level must be checked with the top down, and since the lid won't lock down to complete the top open sequence you'll have to carefully open the trunk to avoid hitting the storage lid.

You are the 2nd person to have this issue, not sure what happened with Ruslan, he stopped posting.

FYI the GM module is known to fail. People have reported issues with door locks and windows related to a failed GM module... yet I have no clue how to test that.
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Old 07-03-2013, 09:37 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by taylor192 View Post
That sucks. I think you're going to need a shop or dealership to monitor what is happening with the top.

Since the back window raises during the top open sequence, I would say it is probably not a hydraulic problem, yet it would be good to rule that out by checking the fluid level. The level must be checked with the top down, and since the lid won't lock down to complete the top open sequence you'll have to carefully open the trunk to avoid hitting the storage lid.

You are the 2nd person to have this issue, not sure what happened with Ruslan, he stopped posting.

FYI the GM module is known to fail. People have reported issues with door locks and windows related to a failed GM module... yet I have no clue how to test that.
Do you mean back lid? It doesn't open on it's own, but only after I lift it it stays. If you do mean windows, they go down a bit like they are supposed to when you first start the sequence.

Also thanks a lot for your help guys. I really appreciate it. I think this will be the end until I have a new idea in the future. I was being told by the dealer that anything to do with the top usually costs over a thousand dollars. That's just not something I want to spend on this car when I'd rather fix real mechanical issues like wheel barrings (and not spend more than the car is worth after all repairs).

I was reading the pdf and can't figure out where the GM is located. Do you think it could be worth changing that and seeing what happens?
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Old 07-04-2013, 10:13 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avneet View Post
Do you mean back lid? It doesn't open on it's own, but only after I lift it it stays. If you do mean windows, they go down a bit like they are supposed to when you first start the sequence.
I didn't say "back lid" I said "back window" or "storage lid"

After the top disconnects from the windshield, the back window raises, then the storage lid raises. If the back window raises then the hydraulics are working.
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Old 07-04-2013, 10:56 AM   #9
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I'm having the same symptoms you're having man. Hoping that something is figured out here on this thread. I've had the problem for I while. i get a strong feeling it's the GM module because of the windows acting up as well. The gm module in the verts is located behind the arm rest in the drivers side back seat. It's not very difficult to access.
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Old 07-04-2013, 11:59 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by jjamal99 View Post
i get a strong feeling it's the GM module because of the windows acting up as well. The gm module in the verts is located behind the arm rest in the drivers side back seat. It's not very difficult to access.
Where?



The GM5 module is located behind the glove box. This guy offers a repair service so I would start with him and see what is different between a GM5 module for a coupe and vert: http://www.bmwgm5.com/

The coupe does not have the rear window relays, does thevert have something extra not pictures or labeled?


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Old 07-04-2013, 02:08 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by jjamal99 View Post
I'm having the same symptoms you're having man. Hoping that something is figured out here on this thread. I've had the problem for I while. i get a strong feeling it's the GM module because of the windows acting up as well. The gm module in the verts is located behind the arm rest in the drivers side back seat. It's not very difficult to access.
My only worry about the GM module not being the problem is that I personally have no lock or window problems. But at this point for me it's either check that, or spend bank at the dealership.
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Old 07-04-2013, 02:51 PM   #12
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My mistake. I mislead you. I was thinking the CVM which is the hidden white module to the left of the black amplifier in your picture. The GM module is in the glove box behind the fuses or above. Can't remember exactly. The website you linked is vouched for based on my research on this site. I think the guys name is scott.
From my understanding of the GM module there are different relays on it controlling different things meaning you can have one problem without having another.
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Old 07-04-2013, 03:22 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by avneet View Post
My only worry about the GM module not being the problem is that I personally have no lock or window problems. But at this point for me it's either check that, or spend bank at the dealership.
Hopefully you can convince another local member with a convertible to swap GM5s to see if that helps.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jjamal99 View Post
My mistake. I mislead you. I was thinking the CVM which is the hidden white module to the left of the black amplifier in your picture. The GM module is in the glove box behind the fuses or above. Can't remember exactly. The website you linked is vouched for based on my research on this site. I think the guys name is scott.
From my understanding of the GM module there are different relays on it controlling different things meaning you can have one problem without having another.
The pics I posted of the GM5 module show 6 relays for:
- 2x door locks
- 2x front windows
- 2x rear windows

I don't see any other relays that might be for the convertible top.

Perhaps the CVM has relays that can go bad too. I haven't seen a photo of the CVM circuit board anywhere though.
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Old 07-04-2013, 03:46 PM   #14
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I guess we should contact this scott guy and ask him. I'm sure he would have the answers. I believe I saw his account somewhere on this forum. I'll look for him again.
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Old 07-04-2013, 05:31 PM   #15
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I guess we should contact this scott guy and ask him. I'm sure he would have the answers. I believe I saw his account somewhere on this forum. I'll look for him again.
If I was nearby I'd swap GM5s with you just to see if it helps. Considering there's a few members with this issue now there's a chance I may encounter it so it'd be nice to find a solution sooner than later.
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Old 07-04-2013, 07:18 PM   #16
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I just sent him an email asking if GMs for convertibles have any relays on the circuit board to control the trunk lid for the top. I linked him to this thread too.
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Old 07-06-2013, 01:51 PM   #17
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His reply was that the GM does not control the convertible trunk lid. Now the question is, what does?
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Old 07-06-2013, 02:51 PM   #18
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Re: Convertible Stops at Trunk Lid

Quote:
Originally Posted by avneet View Post
His reply was that the GM does not control the convertible trunk lid. Now the question is, what does?
The BMW manuals say otherwise. The GM controls locking/unlocking the lid, not raising/lowering it.

We know the motor under the rear seat controls locking/unlocking the lid, maybe it has some electronics in it that communicate with the GM.
As I said before, your best bet is to find another vert owner locally and try swapping some parts. At the point it is stopping it could be one of:
CVM not operating correctly
GM not operating correctly
Lid motor or sensor not responding correctly
Latch sensors not responding correctly
Hydraulic solenoid not operating correctly to lift lid

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Old 07-06-2013, 04:42 PM   #19
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I know for sure it's not the motor under the back seats. Already took that apart and it works fine. The latch unlocks as it should from that motor. It's the motor the raises and lowers the latch that never kicks on to raise the latch.

Quote:
Page 10 in PDF:

During the soft top operation, when the tensioning bow is raised or when the top is in the storage compartment, the CVM signals the GM over the K-Bus to unlock the storage compartment cover. The GM activates the lock motor and the motor turns 180 degrees to unlock the cover latches. The motor always turns in the same direction to unlock/lock the cover.

Once the motor has turned 180 degrees, the hall sensor (S700) input signal will cause the GM to switch off the motor. At the same time, the GM will signal the CVM to continue top operation.
This seems to be where my issue is. It unlatches perfectly, and then nothing happens for the lid to start raising. I wondering if Hall Sensor S188 could be the problem. Page 16 of the PDF manual states this is what causes the lowering or raising of the lid.
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Old 07-06-2013, 06:19 PM   #20
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Re: Convertible Stops at Trunk Lid

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Originally Posted by avneet View Post
I know for sure it's not the motor under the back seats. Already took that apart and it works fine. The latch unlocks as it should from that motor. It's the motor the raises and lowers the latch that never kicks on to raise the latch.

This seems to be where my issue is. It unlatches perfectly, and then nothing happens for the lid to start raising. I wondering if Hall Sensor S188 could be the problem. Page 16 of the PDF manual states this is what causes the lowering or raising of the lid.
The hall sensors rarely go bad, they are just glorified magnets, yet they are cheap and easy to replace. The hall sensors are all the same, I found them without the connectors for $20 on the ECS Tuning site.

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