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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 06-24-2012, 02:06 PM   #181
sillieidiot
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did you try putting both stock bulbs back?
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Old 06-24-2012, 08:08 PM   #182
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Not at the same time, but i will try this and see what happens. thx
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Old 07-01-2012, 12:54 PM   #183
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I didn't have much time before to mess with it but I tried today and still wont turn on and the stock bulbs and led ones work I put them on the trunk and they turned on so idk what else to do.
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Old 08-31-2012, 12:09 AM   #184
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sorry to bump this dinosaur thread, but I just wanted to thank sillie for a wonderful tutorial. I only ran into some minor problems with the footwells and the rear c-pillar lights. those metal shields that "slide" off were simply not budging. I think I just popped the shield off the rail for the drivers and side and then somehow managed to pop off the passenger side. then, there was the stupid copper looking prongs that practically bend if you breathe on them. both rear lights were on the column SOLID. good thing I knew where to shove the flathead. thanks again man!!!
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Old 11-19-2012, 03:25 PM   #185
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This post was awesome! I replaced all of my lights very quickly.

I pieced together my own kit because I work for an Autoparts store.

These are the lights I used:
Trunk - 42 mm X2
Vanity - 42 mm X2
Dome - 194 X3
Rear interior - 194 X4 (2 per side...these were harder to open)
Footwell - 37 mm X2

** I didn't do my glove but I bet it's a 37 mm.

I have extras since I ordered a bunch so if you want to buy them just ask.


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Old 12-06-2012, 04:20 PM   #186
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anyone know if anyone has orange type bulbs to match dash and steering wheel lights
i currently have a 2-din deck i set to the orange colored theme to so it would be nice to match it all
if so, anyone think the lighting is still good because i'd believe it'd be hard to read something written on paper or whatever
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Old 12-06-2012, 07:54 PM   #187
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr_325 View Post
anyone know if anyone has orange type bulbs to match dash and steering wheel lights
i currently have a 2-din deck i set to the orange colored theme to so it would be nice to match it all
if so, anyone think the lighting is still good because i'd believe it'd be hard to read something written on paper or whatever
that would probably be hard to find a dark orange led bulb. i haven't seen anything even remotely close.

if you're planning to do different colors, i would only do the big 3 (and footwells) that comes on when you lock/unlock. leave all the map/vanity lights that way you can still read stuff.

it's also what i would do if you were looking to get the look on a budget. since you only need like 5 bulbs (vs. 12).
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Old 12-08-2012, 03:20 AM   #188
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Originally Posted by sillieidiot View Post
that would probably be hard to find a dark orange led bulb. i haven't seen anything even remotely close.

if you're planning to do different colors, i would only do the big 3 (and footwells) that comes on when you lock/unlock. leave all the map/vanity lights that way you can still read stuff.

it's also what i would do if you were looking to get the look on a budget. since you only need like 5 bulbs (vs. 12).
thanks
after some searching i believe i found it



"Red" LED Kit from LED Automotive but definitely would wanna put some pure whites in for reading purposes, ur right
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Old 07-22-2013, 01:23 PM   #189
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I put a 50 watt, 40 ohm resistor across the passenger side footwell light epoxied to the metal cover plate on top of the light, and everything works fine. It does not get very hot, even when the lights are on for a while. It is possible that a higher resistance would work too, but I haven't tried other values.

Here's one:

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...ame=RHRD-40-ND

Mitch
Hmm. How long did you leave it on? I installed a resistor that I had leftover from my previous car that was used to prevent fast blinking with my LED turn signal bulbs. It looks very similar to the one you linked. I put it on the passenger footwell light as well and it got VERY hot within a few minutes. Like hundreds of degrees burn your skin in one second hot. Like so hot that there was no way I'd leave it installed and shove it back up in the dash for fear it would start a fire. I need another solution for this. It looks pretty ridiculous to have all white LED interior lights and one yellowish incandescent bulb.
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Old 07-31-2013, 01:46 PM   #190
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well if you look through the thread, there's a resistor that is recommended in one of the pages.
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Old 07-31-2013, 01:48 PM   #191
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You mean the one recommended in the post that I quoted? Yeah, I saw that.
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Old 07-31-2013, 01:52 PM   #192
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there's another one i believe, that uses a smaller (in size) resistor. at least i remember seeing it somewhere lol
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Old 07-31-2013, 01:57 PM   #193
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I was thinking if I had another festoon mount I'd just wire in the original bulb! I could probably come up with some semi-creative way to safely do it...
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Old 07-31-2013, 01:59 PM   #194
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Quote:
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You mean the one recommended in the post that I quoted? Yeah, I saw that.
i guess those are the ones lol.

those ones are 50w, 40 ohms. usually the ones for LED turn signals are 50w, 6 ohms. you should check yours to see which ones you have. they aren't the same resistors though, it should be smaller in size. probalby 2/3 the size of the normal LED turn signal resistors.
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Old 07-31-2013, 02:04 PM   #195
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I tried to look mine up but the specs aren't written on it and I couldn't even find definitive information online using the code number. Oh well. I may actually try using the stock bulb.
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Old 07-31-2013, 02:09 PM   #196
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well if it's used for LED turn signals, i'm pretty sure you have the 6 ohm version. if you tried to use the 40 ohm version, it wouldn't work. you'd still get the fast blinking. just try buying the 40 ohm version instead. even the bulb itself gets pretty hot.

another solution would be to use 1 xenon bulb (the blue coated incandescent bulbs).
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Old 08-09-2013, 09:39 PM   #197
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Hmm. How long did you leave it on? I installed a resistor that I had leftover from my previous car that was used to prevent fast blinking with my LED turn signal bulbs. It looks very similar to the one you linked. I put it on the passenger footwell light as well and it got VERY hot within a few minutes. Like hundreds of degrees burn your skin in one second hot. Like so hot that there was no way I'd leave it installed and shove it back up in the dash for fear it would start a fire. I need another solution for this. It looks pretty ridiculous to have all white LED interior lights and one yellowish incandescent bulb.
No resistor should be needed. Mine all worked till I put in the last bulb. I figured it out. LEDs pull such low current that the light module shuts down the interiors sensing a short circuit. Someone with NCS Expert can code the module to not respond to any errors.

I did mine and the lights started working immediately, no resistor.
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Old 10-18-2013, 10:00 AM   #198
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After installing my LED kit from Khoalty, nothing works of course (except the switch operated lights)
So I installed the resistor, and still nothing works
I then went to my local Autozone to get some new bulbs for the footwells because the old ones had blown, still nothing
Is there a fuse that could have popped or something? A bulb in each footwell should be enough draw to to turn trip the switch, right?
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Old 10-19-2013, 10:44 PM   #199
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After installing my LED kit from Khoalty, nothing works of course (except the switch operated lights)
So I installed the resistor, and still nothing works
I then went to my local Autozone to get some new bulbs for the footwells because the old ones had blown, still nothing
Is there a fuse that could have popped or something? A bulb in each footwell should be enough draw to to turn trip the switch, right?
You do know that LEDs are polarity sensitive, don't you?
Easiest way is to put the bulbs back in and replace them one at a time, reversing polarity on the LED if it fails to light. Leave the footwell under the glove box till the last.

I can't urge you enough to get your lighting module coded to ignore errors. No need for resistors or anything special
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