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General E46 Forum
This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW!

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Old 07-24-2013, 08:19 AM   #21
Entropyyy
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Fixing front of 330ci

Honestly this car has two accidents there not alot of hope for its frame


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Old 07-24-2013, 08:20 AM   #22
Entropyyy
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Fixing front of 330ci

So if you think something's bent it most likely is and you're gonna spend alot of money on this car to be disappointed in the end if you crash it again



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Old 07-24-2013, 08:20 AM   #23
Entropyyy
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Fixing front of 330ci

+1 for patient and safe driving


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Old 07-24-2013, 04:37 PM   #24
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Its not my car, my wife drives it, that's why i dont want to invest a lot of money as it might happen again, i am not so much worried for the frame as that she might **** it up in the worse way where repair is not resonable anymore, that's why i dont invest in expensive parts (unless its for drivetrain) so far i spent less than $350 in parts. If i would went to the shop i'd pay more than $1000 for sure.

Last edited by Scott_B; 07-24-2013 at 04:38 PM.
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Old 08-17-2013, 07:13 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glhx View Post
You need to go to pull apart or pick apart. Something like that.
Those yards have set prices for everything no matter what car it comes from.

They have online inventories to see if your caisson in there. The air box in there will cost $15 or something like that. Fenders are like $30. You take tools nd pull it yourself.your in LA. There are probably 5 of them. One will be import specific
Its called "LKQ Pick Your Part" junk yard they like country wide http://www.lkqpickyourpart.com/locations/,

however none of them have any 330 models i checked inventory on their website in 5 location.

Does air filter components and ducts different between different engines of e46?
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Old 08-17-2013, 09:15 PM   #26
David McMahon
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Originally Posted by Scott_B View Post
Its called "LKQ Pick Your Part" junk yard they like country wide http://www.lkqpickyourpart.com/locations/,

however none of them have any 330 models i checked inventory on their website in 5 location.

Does air filter components and ducts different between different engines of e46?
I think the main differences are between the early, later (yours) and the M3

check out www.realoem.com and compare my 328i's airbox part number to yours

If you look on www.realoem.com instead of typing in your 7-digit end of vin number, you can manuall select the different E46's and compare, also whack the BMW part number into google and ebay

http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...46&hg=13&fg=20 (mine)

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...06&hg=13&fg=20 (330ci, yours)

Notice the subtle difference on the box-to-inner-wing mount point.

Last edited by David McMahon; 08-17-2013 at 09:23 PM.
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Old 08-25-2013, 06:06 PM   #27
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Darn i have no time for research and going to junk yards right now car is piece of junk overall with salvage title and i will just keep sport filer in it for now. I got new filter for less than $30 from autozone
When i will fix rest of car i might get all missing parts in engine bay including air duct, but not right now, its easier to just buy extender and put filter somewhere where air is cooler.
P.S. it used to drive fine with this filter so unless engine gets damaged by hot air i will keep it for now.
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Old 08-25-2013, 06:15 PM   #28
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Fixing front of 330ci

You just loose hp, prolly 5hp buy suckig in how air. Them filters also don't filter air like the originals so some say this will damage you engine. It's no Honda engine and the tolerances are much tighter. This is why a little less filtering is a bigger problem on a BMW.


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Old 08-25-2013, 06:16 PM   #29
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Fixing front of 330ci

But if your tight on parts and cash I don't see a problem running it for now just as long as your aware of it.


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Old 08-25-2013, 06:17 PM   #30
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Fixing front of 330ci

http://www.rockauto.com


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Old 08-26-2013, 09:25 AM   #31
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With the software you will know if its a piece of junk. The maf sensor can give you hell. The cost is around $250. The problem is that if it does get messed up because of the air filter.....which being a hot wire style it's very sensitive......you cannot go cheap on it. If you do.......you will run into the same problem I had. High fuel trim because previous owner put china maf on my car. Took a month to resolve and the readings were stupid close to stock.....just a little bit made a huge difference. I had to replace it and it was a soft fail. Ruined gas mileage...power and stops up the expensive cats, fouls o2 sensors. I lost 10 miles per gallon.

You would never have known there was anything wrong. Check fuel trims....if its above 3 then you have some issues. Mine was 10 to 15, mileage was the only indicator. Once I took the chance on replacing it. It was a whole new car.gas mileage returned to normal. It soft failed so bad even the expers here had a hard time with it. We had to compare graphed information and a lot of it.

You should make the air filter a prioity. That sensor along wi the 2 primary o2 sensors make up the whole fuel system delivery information. Protect it the best you can.

Fuel trims are the best way to diagnose most engine performance problems.

Get the elm327 or the inpa package if you haven't. You should have both really. My elm327 is the very small blue one. It's Bluetooth wireless and never leaves my car. I run diagnostics with torque pro at least every other week. The torque pro app on my phone is programmed to show me everything and anything I want to know very quickly. It's very inexpensive

Last edited by glhx; 08-26-2013 at 09:30 AM.
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Old 09-25-2013, 08:24 PM   #32
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Hey funny thing is my maf is messed up, but i dont believe its because of hot air, i was working fine before i started working on the car, now I could not start car more than few seconds before i disconnected it. I guess it actually connector on it that gives me problem.

I do have error code scanner for android. You think i should fix MAF before i check fuel trims, common sense says yes, but engine runs great with it disconnected.

I understand i will change filter if i keep car.


Other more urgent problem now is that left fender is bend up where you put in turn signal. You think i can hammer it down to proper position myself or i need to pay in body shop.
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Old 09-25-2013, 10:15 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by Alex323Ci View Post
I could easily be incorrect about how it looks out of specification. But it just looks way off in the photos. Almost too high
You are correct. Those strut towers are mushroomed, with the driver severely shroomed.

@Scott: The strut studs are supposed to be parallel to each other. If you buy the factory strut tower reinforcement plates (part #51717036781), you can put them underneath the tower to use as reference to try and pound it down with a block of wood (2x4) and hammer. The bottom of the tower is supposed to be flush against the top of the plate. Then get yourself some new upper strut mounts and maybe new shocks to boot. I am guessing you have a 2001 from some of the items I see, including the strut tower design (bulges), so time to get some new shocks if you have not replaced them. Afterwards, getting a properly designed strut bar should help protect them from re-shrooming.

In addition to using the block of wood and hammer with the reinforcement plates as a reference, if you get extra an extra reinforcement plate or two you can use them to sandwich your tower in between the plates by torquing down with some grade 8 bolts and washers to safely squeeze the tower back down more evenly than the wood and hammer time can correct a severely mushroomed tower.
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Old 09-26-2013, 12:29 AM   #34
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Strut tower plates are pretty heavy duty. They do go on the underside of the towers. Factory shocks are shot at 80k. This trashes tires from the un controlled bounce of the springs.....it also mushrooms towers. The ride also becomes stiff and the body....strut towers take the absorption of that instead of the shocks.

Do not run with the maf unplugged. The car will run rich. The computer sing getting real time information. It's running on pre programmed parameters and they are just to not strand you when the sensors fail. They are not efficient at all.

The maf workers off of air passing over the hot platinum wire. This cools the wire.
The computer keeps the wire at 200c......with air flowing over it it's cooling the wire below 200c
The amount of electricity the computer sends to the wire to keep it at 200c tells the computer how much fuel to run.

Last edited by glhx; 09-26-2013 at 12:32 AM.
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Old 09-26-2013, 05:31 PM   #35
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Is there chance i messed up left strut tower by jacking incorrectly? I had hard time fitting my jack under low clearance of this car and put it trough the front because bumper not there it had more space.
So i jacked right where wishbone connects to front axle support.


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Old 09-26-2013, 05:39 PM   #36
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OP, lifting by that area is OK.

Let this picture of my car be inspiration to you!

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Old 09-26-2013, 07:17 PM   #37
Scott_B
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OP, lifting by that area is OK.

Let this picture of my car be inspiration to you!
If you talking about bar between two strut towers, then that what i actually was panning to do. My other Ford had this bar, but old owner actually put it after side collision to adjust the cup, bar had nut as it was universal, so he put it on turned the nut and it bend towers aside. Cheap way of fixing it rather than paying for re-welding them.

Overall your car looks great inside i do like clean engine bay.

About jacking that point, gasket on wishbone joint to front axle almost got pushed out, i dont think that's good for its lifespan.

Another thing, shocks in the front are dead while ago, could driving with dead shocks and springs bend strut towers?

Last edited by Scott_B; 09-26-2013 at 07:18 PM.
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