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Go Back   E46Fanatics > Tuning & Tech > Suspension & Braking

Suspension & Braking
Have some questions about suspension or brake setups for your E46 BMW? Get all your answers here!

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Old 10-11-2012, 07:16 PM   #81
subieworx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IrocThe325i View Post
how about something like this:

Attachment 472103

Not from my iphone
Wouldn't recommend it in that form. Subaru guys tried it a few years ago and it resulted in many failures. Could have been the taper sizing or could have been material problems. IMO, the only way to do that design correction would be to bottom out the shoulder of the hex on the bottom side of the knuckle.
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Old 10-12-2012, 01:16 PM   #82
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Originally Posted by subieworx View Post
Wouldn't recommend it in that form. Subaru guys tried it a few years ago and it resulted in many failures. Could have been the taper sizing or could have been material problems. IMO, the only way to do that design correction would be to bottom out the shoulder of the hex on the bottom side of the knuckle.
yeh i read extenders are a no no

Not from my iphone
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Old 10-20-2012, 10:04 AM   #83
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fuhk. i bought these spindles and now sean from SLR says he can get me a roll center correction kit and bearing setup to fit my stock controls arms for around 500...
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Old 10-20-2012, 11:35 AM   #84
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Sell the spindles, go with Seans setup!
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Old 10-20-2012, 10:17 PM   #85
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Sell the spindles, go with Seans setup!
yeh probably...

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Old 10-24-2012, 11:19 AM   #86
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what is the ball joint taper angle on e46 spindles?

if i move the ball joint mount location off the spindle an inch how badly will that effect camber and scrub?
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Old 07-30-2013, 01:07 AM   #87
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Working on search engine optimization here and the roll-center search brought this thread up, so I figure I'd throw some info here.

Our roll-center correction kit for the E46 gives 28mm of correction and matches the bump-steer at the same time 9saving you having to get a separate bump-steer kit). It also quickens the steering and fits in smaller wheels than any other kit out there.

On top of that, you can adjust the bump-steer and roll-center further with shims if you like, and you also get 5 different ackerman positions. (ackerman defines how much more the inside wheel will turn than the outside).

There are a bunch of NASA GTS and SCCA cars running our setup now and customers are routinely dropping 1.5-2 tenths per lap, and some recent data logging showed a customer pulling .2 MORE G just by installing our setup and dropping the front spring rate 150lbs. (less spring rate is required when you mechanically reduce the roll-tendency through roll-center adjustment).

The rear of the E36 and E46 does not change anywhere near as much as the front when lowering (due to the entirely different rear arm layout compared to the struts in front) and so huge improvements can be gained from this simple mod.

Our roll-center/bump-steer only setups are only $550 and press into a stock E46 arm, while our complete race front kits come with tubular chromoly arms and run $1050. Both include all race quality heims and spherical bearings and you're getting a setup that is used and tested by some of the best racers in the country.

Check out SLRspeed.com



https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.n...40276508_n.jpg_nr_
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Old 07-30-2013, 01:17 AM   #88
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I'm just explaining the theory.

There have been solutions created for E46's, Bimmerworld makes one, I'm not sure if SLR does for the E46. My point is I think you're better off spending your money on other things first because I doubt you're running a good double(+) adjustable damper. This is coming from someone who has built and raced several E46's, including those with and without roll center correction. But what do I know?
I would highly agree that coilovers are the first step, but roll-center correction on a strut suspension yields VERY impressive gains, and especially on the E46, since the rear suspension roll-center chainges very little even when lowered 2-3inches, you gain a LOT more of the OEM steering feel and turn-in bite by correcting the roll-center in front.
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Old 09-07-2013, 01:59 PM   #89
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Moving ball joint

I don't know if I missed this, but moving the ballpoint out of the arm won't fix roll centers. It just looks that way. The pivot point at the ball joint is actually where the roll change happens. If you draw a line through the center of the ball joint, and the pivot of the control arm that's your angle. The arm will look level, but the center didn't move at all. A modified spindle is an option. A fabricator for the VW MK5 GTI makes one. It addresses all the issues. It fixes bump steer too. With that approach you can use stock ball joints. No squeaks, or greasing. Less vibration. I don't see why it couldn't be done for our cars.
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Old 09-09-2013, 08:33 AM   #90
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went with the SLR kit and i absolutely love itttttt. Amazing steering feel, angle, steering speed.

My only mistake was ordering it with oem length control arms and now i can only get about 2.7* of negative camber maxed out.

Im only slightly lower than stock sport height tho so Ill havta drop it a bit more soon.
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