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From Auto-X to Trackday to Racing and Professional Motorsports this is the place to discuss making BMWs fast

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Old 07-29-2013, 07:50 PM   #1
Hopz
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ZHP HPDE Car Prep

Watsup guys,
I just bought a ZHP with 50k miles in excellent condition, and am looking to do some HPDE events. I was wondering where I should put my money as far as making my car withstand the abuse on track.
I am not trying to make it faster, I just simply wanna thrash it around a track and be able to drive it back with no issues (its my DD). So what kind of items should I be looking at changing/keeping fresh? I want RELIABILITY mods, if there is such thing.

THanks!
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Old 07-29-2013, 09:50 PM   #2
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I know there are a few ZHP track guys on here. If you are up on maintenance, I would suggest some good brake fluid and brake pads.
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Old 07-30-2013, 08:23 AM   #3
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I think when we say brake pads, we are referring to dedicated track pads or stronger street/track pads. The odds are, as you getting better throughout the day, you will experience some brake fade/mushiness if you're running stock pads. It's better to put that worry out of your mind and get something that will hold up to the event. This way you can focus on learning the line and getting your braking points and shifting point perfect. Good luck.
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Old 07-30-2013, 09:45 AM   #4
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Put away $$ for tires
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Old 07-30-2013, 11:06 AM   #5
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Ehhh, forget the tires if it's your first event. It's too easy to get a false sense of control with sticky tires. Start out by learning, then you can play once you know how to do everything correctly.
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Old 07-30-2013, 11:15 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by ML///M3 View Post
Ehhh, forget the tires if it's your first event. It's too easy to get a false sense of control with sticky tires. Start out by learning, then you can play once you know how to do everything correctly.
Sounds like he's planning on multiple events+DD. Hence why I said put away $$ for tires, good ones aren't cheap.
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Old 07-30-2013, 11:25 AM   #7
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Depends on how many events you plan on doing. If just a couple then just some good track pads and a fluid refresh for the breaks.
Check your main drive belt, prob good to take one with you.
Then maybe an oil change to some nice fluid!!
Not much needed for a great car like the ZHP with low miles...
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Old 07-31-2013, 10:28 AM   #8
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Should oil change/brake fluid be done prior to event or after?
I'll def look into pads. Between the Pagid S, and the Hawk HP plus, which ones are more recommended? Should I do front and back or can I get away with just the fronts?
Are SS brake lines worth the money?

Thanks for all the replies!
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Old 07-31-2013, 11:58 AM   #9
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Old 07-31-2013, 06:30 PM   #10
ML///M3
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If this is your first event ever, which I think it is otherwise you wouldn't be asking this question. Most track related prep items are the same regardless of car. Forget the tires for now unless you need new tires. Otherwise this is a great opportunity to run and learn your car. That said when you do your prep track inspection you'll be looking over the coolant, engine and underneath the car. Your biggest issue is braking too much for the stock system. Mainly just the fluid or the pads. As the weekend goes on you'll get faster and when you get faster you'll need to stop quicker. Hence the brakes. Your tires don't give out the same as your brakes. If you do a simple pad upgrade and high performance fluid you'll be all set. A guy just just ran his stock Z4 with oem brakes and at the end of the fourth run they were getting a little mushy. Then as you get faster and know what you're doing out on track you can start modding the hell out of your car. Regardless though that doesn't make you a better driver. Seat time on track and at speed does. As for SS lines again these are not necessary but you can do them since you're changing the fluid anyways. Just remember after you bleed the system once, bleed it all over again. You nee to make sure there are NO micro bubbles. Done this many times and it makes for a firm pedal and confidence. Bleeding once is a no-no. Okay I'm done talking. Good luck.
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Old 07-31-2013, 09:52 PM   #11
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Check fluids.
Check brakes. Not just pads, but rotors. Put good brake fluid in and pads.
Retorque lug nuts.

I usually give the car a good one over. For new members to HPDE I recommend a good brake fluid and pads.
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Old 07-31-2013, 10:28 PM   #12
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Just drive it, you don't have the skills to really hurt anything (yet).

I promise, you'll figure it out as you go.



Good luck.
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Old 08-02-2013, 01:07 PM   #13
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Agreed, just go drive it. Its going to take you 2-3 days on track before you'll be needing to do anything special.

Just take it to a shop that does tech inspections and have them inspect the car to make sure everything is good to go. You might want to change the brake fluid if you don't know how old it is. Swap to some Ate Blue fluid.

One other thing is that I recommend filling the engine to the top with oil. Make sure you're right at the top of the dip-stick.

First thing you'll end up needing is aftermarket brake pads. This will happen out of necessity and you'll know it. First you can get away with a street/track combo pad like a Performance Friction Z-Rated (stay away from Hawk). But eventually, you'll someday need to swap pads and use something like a Performance Friction 08 racing pad once you get going really fast. If you need a more aggressive pad early on, its probably because you're riding your brakes.

Then you'll need to start looking into tires. If you're running something like all-season tires, you'll need to move to a summer tire. If you're already on a summer tire then you're good to go. The higher the performance the summer tire, then the more reliably it will perform. Don't get r-compound tires until you're ready to advance to the highest run group.

For reliability though, at some point you're going to want to secure your oil pump nut and baffle your oil pan. Talk to VAC Motorsports about this. They make the best kit.

Don't go through long sustained high-speed turns at unecessarily high RPMs; e.g. don't go through a huge sweeper that puts a high g-load on the car at 6k RPMs. You WILL starve the engine of oil. The same turn at 4k RPMs will go great and you'll be faster coming out because you'll have one less shift to do.

Best way to not destroy your M54 engine on track though is to not rev it over 6500 RPMs. Even though the engine revs to 6800 RPMs, keep it at 6500. Even though it goes to 7000 RPMs if you get a chip, keep it at 6500. These engines have harmonics issues and every little bit you go past that originally designed limit is hurting it. Ask some of us how we know You're not trying to win any trophies out there, there is no big dollar contract for coming across the finish line a tenth faster, and there is no champagne to taste at the end of the day; you'll just get a big repair bill some day.

Last edited by SpeedDemon; 08-07-2013 at 11:53 AM.
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Old 08-02-2013, 10:55 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpeedDemon View Post
Agreed, just go drive it. Its going to take you 2-3 days on track before you'll be needing to do anything special.

Just take it to a shop that does tech inspections and have them inspect the car to make sure everything is good to go. You might want to change the brake fluid you don't know how old it is. Swap to some Ate Blue fluid.

One other thing is that I recommend filling the engine to the top with oil. Make sure you're right at the top of the dip-stick.

First thing you'll end up needing is aftermarket brake pads. This will happen out of necessity and you'll know it. First you can get away with a street/track combo pad like a Performance Friction Z-Rated (stay away from Hawk). But eventually, you'll someday need to swap pads and use something like a Performance Friction 08 racing pad once you get going really fast. If you need a more aggressive pad early on, its probably because you're riding your brakes.

Then you'll need to start looking into tires. If you're running something like all-season tires, you'll need to move to a summer tire. If you're already on a summer tire then you're good to go. The higher the performance the summer tire, then the more reliably it will perform. Don't get r-compound tires until you're ready to advance to the highest run group.

For reliability though, at some point you're going to want to secure your oil pump nut and baffle your oil pan. Talk to VAC Motorsports about this. They make the best kit.

Don't go through long sustained high-speed turns at unecessarily high RPMs; e.g. don't go through a huge sweeper that puts a high g-load on the car at 6k RPMs. You WILL start the engine of oil. The same turn at 4k RPMs will go great and you'll be faster coming out because you'll have one less shift to do.

Best way to not destroy your M54 engine on track though is to not rev it over 6500 RPMs. Even though the engine revs to 6800 RPMs, keep it at 6500. Even though it goes to 7000 RPMs if you get a chip, keep it at 6500. These engines have harmonics issues and every little bit you go past that originally designed limit is hurting it. Ask some of us how we know You're not trying to win any trophies out there, there is no big dollar contract for coming across the finish line a tenth faster, and there is no champagne to taste at the end of the day; you'll just get a big repair bill some day.

I thought about commenting or adding,........................but I'll just say;


Yes, Yes, & Yes.
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Originally Posted by RacerX View Post
Nitrous is a little trickier than boost, but it's not the spray that kills motors, it's STUPIDITY!!
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Old 08-10-2013, 09:52 PM   #15
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I recently tracked my ZHP with 113K miles for the first time. I planned on doing a bunch of prep and getting it ready, I just didn't get around to it. I did however have new performance pads and i bought some racing brake fluid but i never put it in. I am definitely gonna get some stainless steel brake lines just to be safe. Tires aren't necessary but i did overheat mine and a few small chunks came off. I bout some OZ Racing Wheels off craigslist and I'll eventually get some tires. But you'll be fine your first time. Just get a feel for the car. I was really surprised with how it performed. Be safe and have fun. Cheers!
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Old 08-11-2013, 06:20 PM   #16
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I am definitely gonna get some stainless steel brake lines just to be safe.
SS lines are a total waste. Speaking from experience of actual telemetry data and comparison testing.
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Old 08-11-2013, 07:12 PM   #17
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Re: ZHP HPDE Car Prep

Really? Well when I eventually do replace my brake lines just because they are old and corroded its still not worth the few extra bucks? Do ss lines even last longer or are they just a total waste? Are there any advantages?
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Old 08-12-2013, 03:03 PM   #18
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SS lines are a total waste. Speaking from experience of actual telemetry data and comparison testing.
Interesting. Can you post such telemetry?
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Old 10-16-2013, 12:02 AM   #19
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Not to thread jack, I'd just rather keep this one going...

I replaced my entire cooling system 6 months ago, replaced VCG and vanos seals, replaced rotors and brake pads (OEM rotors with StopTech street performance pads), and change oil every 7k. Bilstein HD shocks are 40k old with powerflex FCABs and RTABs. Stock springs. What else should be done for my 323ci to prepare it better for HPDE's?? Currently I'm running Continental DW's. They held up well at my first event ever at Thunderhill on 9/28. But I'm signed up and registered for Sonoma on 11/9 and Laguna Seca on 11/29 & 12/21.

Would a 12mm spacer all around make much of a difference? How about sway bars? I wanna get a feel for my car better while it's still very stock, but I'm anxious to start preparing it better for some track days to come. Any advice would be awesome!
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Old 10-29-2013, 10:15 AM   #20
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Safety items: closed face helmet, high temp brake fluid and make sure you have enough meat on pads, rotors and tires.

Do a proper tech inspection to make sure the car is in good shape, address anything found during inspection.

Spend the rest of money on seat time. Down the road as you progress, think about getting dedicated track pads and sticky tires.

Don't tinker with any 'mods' - get a feel for the car first, experience what it's like to drive that car the limit because on the streets you never have. Then address any deficiencies later after you've gotten some decent seat time.
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