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Old 08-05-2013, 10:48 PM   #1
Phrygian
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Front and Rear Mid-bass Replacement

Today, I pulled the trigger on four Dayton Audio RS150-4 drivers (http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=295-372) to replace my front and rear mid-bass woofers. I'm thinking about going the PVC cap route (http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=801817) for the front doors, instead of using MDF rings. Any thoughts?


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Old 08-06-2013, 07:15 PM   #2
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in to see how it sounds
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Old 08-06-2013, 10:06 PM   #3
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I've checked these out awhile ago when finding replacements for my mid bass and didnt know if they would be good enough. When you get them in let me know if the bass from these is louder and better sounding than the stock ones. if so i will be getting a set as i just managed to blow almost all my woofers.

also to answer the question I think mdf will be easier. you could try get flat pvc or plexi glass and make the rings out of those. if you go the pvc pipe route I will defiantly be interested in your results
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Old 08-06-2013, 11:51 PM   #4
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Re: Front and Rear Mid-bass Replacement

I don't really know how well the stock system sounded. This is my first BMW, and I just bought it used almost a month ago. It's got the non-HK 10-speaker system with the factory amp in the trunk. The original rears on the deck had been replaced with some cheap Pioneer coaxials, everything else is stock. However, the front left woofer is blown.

I know the the OEM drivers are 2 ohm, and the Dayton's I'm replacing them with are 4 ohm with a sensitivity of 89 db 1W/1m. I have a local friend who's a well known manufacture of planar magnetic HI-FI loudspeakers. I may take last the working OEM driver to his shop for testing after I remove it.

I am planning to upgrade in stages. Ultimately, I'll probably replace factory amp, but I'm not ready yet. I also don't want to replace a component speaker system system with coaxials. When I'm ready to switch over to aftermarket amps, I'll probably build my own passive crossovers, if the components match up well enough that is.

As for the PVC mounts, the OP for the rear PVC mounts was contemplating replacing his front MDF rings with a similar setup. For me Dremeling some PVC would be a lot easier than making my own MDF rings. The only thing that concerns me about using PVC is the heat during the summer time.


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Old 08-07-2013, 10:08 AM   #5
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I got a similar idea to that. my main goal right now is to get my crappy speakers at least sounding normal.

this will help with the amp install
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=245914

if can let me know what you did to get these in I would like to see. cause i see the speaker depth is over 65mm so im curious to see if they fit without cutting the door grill
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Old 08-07-2013, 09:33 PM   #6
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Re: Front and Rear Mid-bass Replacement

I bought a pair of 6" PVC caps today. These things are enormous! The outside diameter is 6-11/16". I don't see how they could possibly fit in the front doors. I'm going pull a door panel this weekend and see if there's any possible way these can work. I'll let you know how it goes.


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Old 08-12-2013, 09:20 PM   #7
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so how the swap go?
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Old 08-13-2013, 09:10 PM   #8
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Re: Front and Rear Mid-bass Replacement

I was too busy too pull a door panel this weekend. I don't have everything I need yet to do the swap anyway. I still need some Dynomat or equivalent. I was just going to take some measurements to see if the PVC would even be feasible. I may get to it this week, but I'm more concerned about getting my flexdisk replaced before my kid starts school next week since I'll be driving about 60 miles a day then.

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Old 08-15-2013, 08:58 PM   #9
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Here's how I did mine

I like the concept of the pvc but it will never fit in the doors. I just did the front doors on my zhp sedan today and it wasn't easy. I purchased the hertz 163 3 way and to replace the factory hk... I saw all the posts of how to do the baffles but my speakers were too big (width) so I made a slightly different system with the same results. Pics are attached
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Old 08-16-2013, 12:37 AM   #10
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I Like that. so the pvc wont work at all? couldnt we just cut a 6 inch pipe to fit and attach some 90 angle fastners to the door and pipe? all that would be left is to sound mate the inside of the tube with some mat tape right
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Old 08-16-2013, 09:49 PM   #11
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I have a pair of Morel tempo 5's in my front's. Looks like the Dayton's are a bit deep when it comes to mounting depth. My tempo's are a little under 2.5" in depth and there is no room behind them. I'm using some foam mat to make sure the drive seals around the mounting bracket when I get a chance to install it. I've also seen some people use mdf rings to build up a pod to mount them in.
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Old 08-24-2013, 01:18 PM   #12
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Re: Front and Rear Mid-bass Replacement

Since I'm waiting on some MDF rings for the doors, I decided to work on the rear mounts today.

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Old 08-24-2013, 05:36 PM   #13
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looks extremely clean. but what they look like installed. Sorry to use you as the test subject im looking at getting 4 of these but i want to see if they even fit lol. looks good though
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Old 08-26-2013, 02:40 AM   #14
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really clean and creative.... i'm looking at doing this upgrade to my wife's 2000 bmw 323ci next week, the day after i land back home. i have the corner trunk enclosure/sub/amp already but i may not have enough time to piece a front/rear stage together so i may find/choose a drop-in replacement kit other than a BSW kit for $700

M_South_Afrikanna, are you going to HIN next weekend with the Houston M club or BMWCCA group of houston??
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Old 08-26-2013, 02:20 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by lrinco01 View Post
really clean and creative.... i'm looking at doing this upgrade to my wife's 2000 bmw 323ci next week, the day after i land back home. i have the corner trunk enclosure/sub/amp already but i may not have enough time to piece a front/rear stage together so i may find/choose a drop-in replacement kit other than a BSW kit for $700

M_South_Afrikanna, are you going to HIN next weekend with the Houston M club or BMWCCA group of houston??
Wasn't even aware of those events to be honest or apart of the club or group but now that you tell me about it i might look into it. you in either?
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Old 08-29-2013, 06:58 PM   #16
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I had no idea what I was getting into tearing apart the rear deck. Everything was brittle and falling apart. I already knew that the speaker covers were shot, as well as the rectangular shaped plastic trim that goes around the child seat tethers. My c-pillars are broken in a couple of places. I think I can fix those with epoxy, and maybe a little bit of fiberglass if needed. And, the black rubberish damping material that covers the metal behind the rear seat and under the rear deck was crumbling to pieces. So, today I ordered new speaker grills, the vent/grill piece that goes between the deck and the window, those rectangular pieces that go around the tether points, and a few sheets of Sonic Barrier Vinyl Sound Damping. While I've got the deck out, I'm going to clean it and spray it with some Dupli-Color Vinyl & Fabric Coating.
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Old 08-31-2013, 12:46 PM   #17
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Re: Front and Rear Mid-bass Replacement

I've spent all morning working on the left rear mount. I just barely had enough depth.


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Old 09-08-2013, 11:25 PM   #18
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nice looking good so far
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Old 09-14-2013, 12:54 PM   #19
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Re: Front and Rear Mid-bass Replacement

I finally finished the rear deck today and I'm very happy with the results.

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Old 09-14-2013, 11:45 PM   #20
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looks good so im guessing they sound nice too. does the pcp act as a good insulator/mount. I think you saw my other post with 3.25" depth speakers im putting in. im probably gonna 3d print the mount and grill for it but would you suggest these for the front doors? cause im looking into getting dd cs6.5 but its hard to get them in my area.
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