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Driveline, Engine & DME Tuning
Talk about driveline improvements, NA tuning and DME tuning your E46 BMW here. This includes diffs, intakes, exhausts, chips, software and OBD tuning.

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Old 09-07-2013, 04:14 PM   #1
stgoulet
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Join Date: Jun 2011
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My Ride: 2001 330ci
DISA - Intake Manifold Actuator question

Sort of a newbie and enjoying the forum so I figured someone with some more knowledge could aid in my thought process. I replaced my CVV this past winter and in the process of replacing all of the rubber on the intake manifold and replacing as many gaskets as I could along the way, I definately believe that my DISA/ Intake Manifold Actuator may have been/ needs to be replaced. I remember playing with it and noticing that when it was rotated that it made a popping noise which I think I can vaugly hear when my car is idling after going for a trip (once it is at operating temp for a while) leading me to think that it may be gettnig worse. I have not had any noticable performance changes, at low idle it doesn't have any problems like I believe I have read would be present, just interested in getting some opinions on what someone more knowledgeable thinks about the car and the sound. Currently has 165,000 and I feel its well maintained. I am a college student who would like to not spend an arm and a leg on parts if they are not necessary but I want it to be maintained so if someone feels its necessary I wouldn't hesitate to purchase one. Thanks again
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Old 09-07-2013, 04:41 PM   #2
Solidjake
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Best thing to check if it has failed is to listen to the disa with it plugged in and the engine on. Then turn off the engine, unplug the disa connector, start the car and see if there is a difference. If you notice a loud rattling sound gone then it must be replaced.
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Old 09-07-2013, 05:03 PM   #3
judge_jamin
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As I recall, my disa (manifold adjuster) made the same popping sound when moving the flap, which is normal. This valve has a somewhat strange mode of operation, it is an electrically triggered vacuum operated device that is closes when then engine revs are below around 4000rpm and opens above 4000rpm.

There are threads on the forum that will assist in testing it.... basically close the flap and cover the small hole tightly with your thumb then let the flap go, if it rotates back with no resistance, the diaphragm is knackered. Be aware though there is more than one mode of failure for this device. edit: If the flap is loose or has fallen off then there are refurb kits available, but beware of anything coming loose in your intake!

I had lean codes and this valve wouldn't close when I had intake leaks, I replaced the intake boots as there was a tear (still had lean codes) then the ccv and all associated pipes due to puffs of white smoke, excessive oil consumption and an disturbing squeal/whistle when the engine was hot.

It now closes and operates as it should.

In my case at least the lack of vacuum seems to be the reason the valve didnt close, once the intake was airtight the disa operated normally.

Last edited by judge_jamin; 09-07-2013 at 05:06 PM.
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Old 09-09-2013, 05:20 PM   #4
stgoulet
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Thanks for the replies: I have had lean codes and other O2 codes and have replaced all the rubber on the intake as of last winter/into spring but still occasionally have codes thrown (I will look them up today when I get out of school). I have disassembled it twice and I don't hear any "sucking" leaks around the intake but I do hear that popping occasionally. I do apologize my knowledge isn't quite up there, but I'm learning. I took a picture of the valve this summer so I will get that up when I figure out how very soon to try and get your opinion on its condition, just remembered that I did that.
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