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Suspension & Braking Forum by BimmerWorld
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Old 09-19-2013, 02:57 PM   #41
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You will not notice any NVH with the balljoints unless you are a hypersensitive person. These points are not directly connected to the chassis (the vibration has to go through a second bushing to get to the car, either the TA Bushing, Shock/Spring, Subframe bushing). This mod just helps to tighten things up/reduce variation when under load, which will translate to better handling characteristics.
I think as fanatics, we are all hypersensitive. I like it though. not at all turned off by the increased vibration.
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Old 09-19-2013, 03:48 PM   #42
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Can someone post a link to a bushing/ball joint press that can be used to replace the upper/lower bushings/ball joints. Thanks!
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Old 09-19-2013, 03:50 PM   #43
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I already did. See post 1
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Old 09-19-2013, 04:47 PM   #44
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I already did. See post 1
See it now. I was hoping someone would point out the generic (aka cheaper!) ball joint press kits would work, preferably the kind I can rent at local auto stores.
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Old 09-19-2013, 04:52 PM   #45
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See it now. I was hoping someone would point out the generic (aka cheaper!) ball joint press kits would work, preferably the kind I can rent at local auto stores.
There is none. The true BMW kit for this is upwards of $800-$1,000. Consider the tool I linked a bargain.
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Old 09-19-2013, 05:22 PM   #46
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Re: So, you wanna service the rear trailing arm? Definitive Trailing Arm Guide

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There is none. The true BMW kit for this is upwards of $800-$1,000. Consider the tool I linked a bargain.
This.
The MIS tool is really amazing. I was doing two e46 suspension refreshes which took me about 12 hours total. That's everything including struts, control arms, bushings, springs, shocks, tie rods, sway bar bushings and linkage, mounts, and RTABs. I saved the RTABs till last and at 3am the last thing I wanted to do was "rig" an autozone tool to work. I was already tired, frustrated, sweaty, and just plain sore. The tool put a smile on my face on how easy it worked. Almost as easy as replacing a thermostat.

Many members have then for rent. I got mine for $20. Well worth it. I actually regret not buying it.

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Old 09-19-2013, 05:28 PM   #47
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This.
The MIS tool is really amazing. I was doing two e46 suspension refreshes which took me about 12 hours total. That's everything including struts, control arms, bushings, springs, shocks, tie rods, sway bar bushings and linkage, mounts, and RTABs. I saved the RTABs till last and at 3am the last thing I wanted to do was "rig" an autozone tool to work. I was already tired, frustrated, sweaty, and just plain sore. The tool put a smile on my face on how easy it worked. Almost as easy as replacing a thermostat.

Many members have then for rent. I got mine for $20. Well worth it. I actually regret not buying it.

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I believe he is talking about the E36/E46 rear axle service kit, not the RTAB tool.
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Old 09-19-2013, 05:33 PM   #48
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The MIS tool is really amazing.
Ball joints not RTABs.

Quote:
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There is none. The true BMW kit for this is upwards of $800-$1,000. Consider the tool I linked a bargain.
Looks like I'll be making a tool then. These are bargains:



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Old 09-19-2013, 05:35 PM   #49
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Ball joints not RTABs.


Looks like I'll be making a tool then. These are bargains:
I tried making similar tools but the truth is the rods arent big or sturdy enough. I snapped two custom tools in half and bent a hardened steel socket. The bushing didn't budge one bit. Depending on how corroded the original bushings/balljoints are, you may have a difficult time removing them with home-made tools. Some have done it but I found it best to not waste my time. Plus flying steel is never safe. Wear eye protection.
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Old 09-19-2013, 05:56 PM   #50
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Re: So, you wanna service the rear trailing arm? Definitive Trailing Arm Guide

Wow. My fault. Sorry.
That's why I hate using my phone app. It's harder to keep up.
Disregard.

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Old 09-20-2013, 09:00 AM   #51
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I tried making similar tools but the truth is the rods arent big or sturdy enough. I snapped two custom tools in half and bent a hardened steel socket. The bushing didn't budge one bit. Depending on how corroded the original bushings/balljoints are, you may have a difficult time removing them with home-made tools. Some have done it but I found it best to not waste my time. Plus flying steel is never safe. Wear eye protection.
Yeah I've read online as well that those ball joints are near impossible to remove without the special tool, even with heat.

When I do my overhaul at a local "DIY garage" shop thing around here, I'll ask them if they have any tools that might be able to do it. If they have some tool that'll work I'll let you know.

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...all-Joint-Tool

This guy is renting out a tool that can do it, the thread is old but maybe he's still around.
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Old 09-20-2013, 09:29 AM   #52
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Yeah I've read online as well that those ball joints are near impossible to remove without the special tool, even with heat.

When I do my overhaul at a local "DIY garage" shop thing around here, I'll ask them if they have any tools that might be able to do it. If they have some tool that'll work I'll let you know.

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...all-Joint-Tool

This guy is renting out a tool that can do it, the thread is old but maybe he's still around.
Oh yeah. I have the tool? How do you think I did it? Tim has it at the moment otherwise I'd show you how it's set up. Or I might have a pic around somewhere. but it's pretty much like the home made tool but a LOT sturdier. For one, the rod is solid as fvck. Heavy duty. Designed for the job. The pieces also have to be machined to a certain shape so they don't come into contact with the brake heat shield.
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Old 09-28-2013, 02:27 PM   #53
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I just Googled "The shiznitt" and Mango's picture came up!

Thanks Mango! Great thread! Big ups!
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Old 10-01-2013, 09:43 AM   #54
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I need to do this. Go Mango on getting on the E46 front page!
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Old 10-01-2013, 11:20 AM   #55
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Thanks! and yay didn't notice. i should check that more often.

yes if you track your non-M, or even M3, it's best to upgrade/service these trailing arm components and/or upgrade to the M3 balljoints
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Old 10-01-2013, 11:55 AM   #56
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Awesome guide! I need to stop reading your guides cause its making me spend too much money =P
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Old 10-01-2013, 12:36 PM   #57
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Awesome guide! I need to stop reading your guides cause its making me spend too much money =P
hahaha
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Old 10-01-2013, 03:53 PM   #58
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I ordered FCABs and RTABs both by Febi Bilstein. I'll do them this weekend and report on the quality.
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Old 10-01-2013, 06:14 PM   #59
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Yeah that's the thing. Also not sure I'd trust something pressed in with hand pressure that's supposed to be pressed.
Have you ever DRIVEN a car with the powerflex or UUC RTAB's?

I have had powerflex on my own cars, and installed them on other peoples cars. They are a wonderful upgrade, one you can actually feel.

When going this route you don't need anything beyond a drill bit and air chisel for removal and your hands to install. It is a thing of beauty.

Nothing wrong with OE bushings, but nothing wrong with powerflex either.

Oh, and there is more movement of a stock bushing than a powerflex, pressed or not. Both are BOLTED to the car.

As for special tools, whatever. People said I couldn't do rear wheel bearings without a special tool, I did that too. Even documented it on youtube. There is always a way around things. It is the difference between experience and book knowledge.

Nice write-up, and Kudos for adding the other ball joints, most people skip that item.
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Old 10-01-2013, 08:27 PM   #60
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THANK YOU FOR THIS i think mine needs some "maintenance"

Don't ask, I blame the tow truck driver who probably attached a winch to it

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