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This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW!

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Old 08-01-2013, 01:22 PM   #181
PeeweeCSHL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tbone8ty View Post
can this be done at dealer?

do you know what version you had and what version you flashed to?
This might be a little late but yes this can be done at a dealer but as with everything it'll be expensive and they probably won't recommend it or think it'll fix anything.

I wrote down the number 7561514 as the ECU flash version but upon googling it I can't find it its legit. I'd just suggest whatever the newest version of your ECU is going to be a lot better than whatever you're running right now.
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Old 08-03-2013, 07:39 PM   #182
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I wish I had tried this connection fix/cleanup before I replaced the intake solenoid with a new one. The solenoid started making a buzzing sound which alerted my that it was failing- I think prior to that it had been soft failing and robbing me of power and a steady idle. It never threw any codes for the solenoid either....
BUT once the intake cam solenoid was replaced it was like a new car!
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Old 08-12-2013, 12:05 PM   #183
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Tightened the DISA, MAF, and VANOS intake/exhaust plugs. Didn't use any electrical contact cleaner.

Today I drove the car with A/C on, and didn't realize at all. That's a substancial achomplishment for my car.
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Old 08-12-2013, 05:27 PM   #184
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Tightened the DISA, MAF, and VANOS intake/exhaust plugs. Didn't use any electrical contact cleaner.

Today I drove the car with A/C on, and didn't realize at all. That's a substancial achomplishment for my car.



Good to hear. Keep em coming.
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Old 09-02-2013, 11:29 PM   #185
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Re: Still Suffering from hesitation/bucking even after VANOS seals? Look Inside!

This is interesting. I'm gonna try it out. I'm at 175.5k and I think my car performs decently for its age. But a simple adjustment like this intrigues me.

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Old 09-06-2013, 06:49 PM   #186
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Another success story. I thought I'd screwed something up in my repair. Then I tried this. Tremendous gains in power--on par with the initial VANOS repair, at least in the case of my '99 328i with 170k
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Old 09-08-2013, 12:33 PM   #187
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same here, it was the plugs

Quote:
Originally Posted by BMARTINW View Post
Can I add!! replace spark plugs! I didint see it here but I replaced my MAF, fuel filter / fuel pressure regulator, air filter, coil packs, intake boots $600 later... and thought about replacing the fuel pump, it's was just the spark plugs the whole time, they had oil in the treads. Try that first too and get the oem ones work he's the NGK double platinum.
Same story here. Misfires, shaky acceleration from stop, loss of power and such. Numerous codes pointing to coil packs. Old plugs can be the death of coil packs- as the gap gets bigger due to wear the coil has to produce more and more current to generate the arc. Changed out all 6 plugs, was shocked at the wear. They may have been original (133K miles). No more hesitation, surging, weird feel on gear changes or shaky starts. So if you are going to open the hood and get your hands dirty might as well change the plugs as well as recrimp connectors etc. Easy job and the results can be dramatic.
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Old 09-15-2013, 10:05 PM   #188
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I have never used this stuff, but read about it right after reading this thread ... might apply? http://blog.wurthusa.com/2012/07/26/...stabilant-22a/
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Old 09-16-2013, 08:28 AM   #189
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I just drove my 325xi for the 1st time since buying it in May (skuzzy dealer) (then Mrs driving it 325 miles home), and it sometimes hesitates badly off idle and also stalls repeatedly, but sometimes idles fine and doesn't hesitate, it's really bizarre... I checked the air filter and found the intake boot torn about 1/2 way around, with the accompanying vacuum loss whistle. But with the filter cover back in place, the crack is mostly closed up. At one point, I stopped at a rest area to take a snooze (10PM, 225 mile drive) and suddenly the idle went bonkers and lopey... with the accompanying hesitation off idle when I decided to resume my trip.

When I got home, it stalled 10 times in a row and it was all I could do to get moving. I had to resort to revving it in neutral and feathering the throttle, much like the junk carburetored cars I used to drive. then all of a sudden, it idles fine and no hesitation.

Reading the above comment, I'll check the plugs, get a new boot and F connector, valve cover gasket (leaking). It also needs a new LR caliper, (siezed, vice-gripped brake hose) and rear shocks, (left one totally dead).

Otherwise I enjoyed the road trip. I noticed the brake pedal is too close to the gas pedal for my big feet, so I'll be adjusting that... The cruise is a bit weird, will take getting used to, and I figured out how to open the sunroof. (remove cover, small Allen bit in gear, and very hard to crank, but it opens). Fuel mileage was 27 at 65-70 1st fill up, 25 on 2nd, mostly interstate, some backroads. Vids to follow
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Old 10-02-2013, 07:31 PM   #190
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Re: Still Suffering from hesitation/bucking even after VANOS seals? Look Inside!

Bump

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Old 10-06-2013, 08:59 PM   #191
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Originally Posted by new//M3fan View Post
My car has suffered from a slight hesitation when taking off and under load, and also when suddenly accelerating under load at low rpm's up until 3k in 1st through 2nd even well after 3k miles on the beisansystems.com seals.

So I went in and looked at the MAF, cleaned it and also inside the connector I crimped down the pins inside so it would grab the receiving end pins better--that helped but the hesitation was still there.

Just 3 days ago I decided to clean and evenly crimped (using a pick) down the pins inside the connector for the exhaust VANOS solenoid; I took it for a spin and lo and behold the hesitation was pretty much gone! A few days went by and the more I drove the car the more low end torque it developed and it revved up smoother and smoother.

Yesterday, I did the same thing to the intake VANOS solenoid connector. Took it for a spin and the car felt as if the DME was relearning it's VANOS adaptations all over again! (felt sluggish at the beginning and started feeling stronger about 3 to 6 minutes later) 30 miles later the car feels great! and there is absolutely no hesitation under any circumstances!

The hesitation was caused due to shoddy and loose contact between the solenoid and it's receiving end [VANOS solenoid contacts]-- In other words



The pins inside both pigtails were spread open for some reason unknown to me.

The new found torque and instantaneous throttle response caught me off guard yesterday during a on and off drizzle when I punched it at 2750rpm in 2nd gear-- The rear end of the car kicked out to the side as if it had an LSD! (yes, I always drive with traction control off--at least when I can remember to turn it off.)



This is my MAF connector but the same concept applies to the VANOS connectors since they are the same in design.

You basically wedge a pick at the top and bottom of the filaments inside closing them together. Not all the way obviously but enough so that when it is plugged in it will open slighly and grab/bite the pins on the receiving end.

I've already done it to the image above. I don't have a before picture but the filaments were spread open and did not form a perfect rectangle as they do now.

Now after you have done so; Now when you are about to connect the pigtail you can feel some resistance ( which indicates the pins have a much better contact with the solenoid pins ) whereas before they simply just slid in like butter; Almost as if they were sliding into a void.

This trick would also work for MAF, DISA, IAT, Alternator pigtails, and all pigtails with the same design throughout the car.

Here's what Rajaie--Owner of besiansystems.com--had to say.



Which reminds me I need to detail my engine bay...

Lets try to keep this thread strictly on the topic at hand

For those who don't bother with searching [and newbs]...

For a in-depth VANOS walk-through

http://www.beisansystems.com/procedu..._procedure.htm

To purchase

http://www.beisansystems.com/products.html

E46 besiansystems.com support thread
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=524336
.

What exactly do you mean by evenly crimping the connections. I'm confused as to exactly how this is done. Could you please explain in more detail about how to do this? I'm in the same boat as you were before with poor engine performance. Thanks so much
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Old 10-11-2013, 06:03 AM   #192
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I am convinced that the OP has discovered something. I run Lubro Moly or Pentosin full synthetic engine oil and this has preserved my Buna O rings. My buddy with his M52TU with 268000 miles does not have any oil leaks and no idle stumble when cold. The same for me, but I am only at 83,000 miles.
------------------------------
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Old 10-14-2013, 10:53 PM   #193
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Originally Posted by shane28989 View Post
I am convinced that the OP has discovered something. I run Lubro Moly or Pentosin full synthetic engine oil and this has preserved my Buna O rings. My buddy with his M52TU with 268000 miles does not have any oil leaks and no idle stumble when cold. The same for me, but I am only at 83,000 miles.
------------------------------
I run exclusively Pento or Liquimoly and it does help the Buna material....however, the Buna will harden and failure as stated by Raj. I just pulled my valve cover gasket at 120,000 miles and the rubber seal was partially harden. I also pulled the Buna O rings from the VANOS and they were rock hard and compression set. I installed the Viton seals and produces significant more torque like when it was new. Also, my engine at idle is quieter with pronounced bottom end pull.
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Old 10-15-2013, 11:14 PM   #194
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I have never used this stuff, but read about it right after reading this thread ... might apply? http://blog.wurthusa.com/2012/07/26/...stabilant-22a/
Bentley lists the "electrical contact enhancer," Stabilant 22A for electrical connections. I've tried to find it here in the US, without luck.
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Old 10-15-2013, 11:50 PM   #195
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want it sent to your house?

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Originally Posted by latitude39 View Post
I've tried to find it here in the US, without luck.
http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&key...l_6bedl2u020_p



How many bottles do you want?

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Old 10-16-2013, 09:55 AM   #196
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Electrical connection enhancer

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Originally Posted by Stinger9 View Post

I should have looked more often. Thanks for the link.

I just wonder if using Stabilant to improve the connections would be better, or at least easier, than having to manipulate each electrical plug. I do find some talk about "stabilant" in the forums but nothing about anyone's experience with long-term reliability.

Last edited by latitude39; 10-16-2013 at 01:41 PM.
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Old 10-31-2013, 04:04 PM   #197
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Did this today on my VANOS intake and MAF connectors, no doubt it did help. When I removed the VANOS intake connector it literally slid right off.
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Old 10-31-2013, 04:08 PM   #198
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Did this today on my VANOS intake and MAF connectors, no doubt it did help. When I removed the VANOS intake connector it literally slid right off.
careful this "fix" can do more harm than good by fouling (breaking/bending) the little pins that lock the pin into the harness causing it to release or become unsecure.

It's my official position on this "fix" that it's all in the head and actually doesn't fix anything.

These crimp connectors are standardized throughout the auto industry (and others I'd imagine as they're basic crimp connections) and to my knowledge have no history of coming loose or damaged on other cars. I've done this "fix" on three different BMWs with no discernible difference.
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Old 10-31-2013, 04:35 PM   #199
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careful this "fix" can do more harm than good by fouling (breaking/bending) the little pins that lock the pin into the harness causing it to release or become unsecure.

It's my official position on this "fix" that it's all in the head and actually doesn't fix anything.

These crimp connectors are standardized throughout the auto industry (and others I'd imagine as they're basic crimp connections) and to my knowledge have no history of coming loose or damaged on other cars. I've done this "fix" on three different BMWs with no discernible difference.
I understand this, I read the thread. No problems here.
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Old 11-02-2013, 04:40 PM   #200
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mango View Post
careful this "fix" can do more harm than good by fouling (breaking/bending) the little pins that lock the pin into the harness causing it to release or become unsecure.

It's my official position on this "fix" that it's all in the head and actually doesn't fix anything.

These crimp connectors are standardized throughout the auto industry (and others I'd imagine as they're basic crimp connections) and to my knowledge have no history of coming loose or damaged on other cars. I've done this "fix" on three different BMWs with no discernible difference.
FYI,

This is only Mango's opinion, which he is entitled to. He surely knows his stuff.

But he's not providing any proof to back up his official position as I have in my posts.

It's just the same as me saying Mango doesn't know what he's talking about without providing proof... well unto the proof.



I do agree that this can cause more harm than good if you don't know what you're doing and press the PINS out of the socket...

Plus this is a fix on some cars and an improvement on most. (I've noticed that certain year/month harness suffer the most from this)

Mango, additionally your control group (3 cars) is too small to rule this out. I have done it on well over 20+ cars personally (some cars benefited greatly, others not so), not counting the success stories online and on this thread alone.

Not everyone has rich friends that buy well maintained cars... you don't know it all you know. (neither do I) but aspiring you do doesn't bode well on you or others

If you still stand by your opinion

Show me proof these are standardized, and suffer from no use inflicted damage.

and I will promptly follow up with a refusal for cause, without dishonor.
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