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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 09-09-2012, 02:29 AM   #81
gsbmw
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You're very welcome editwizard (and jssamm earlier)!

Your description of yelling and laughing in your garage gave me a nice chuckle, because I think I did just about the same thing when I first looked in and saw the broken hose. It was a huge relief, since I had been having lean codes for months and my smog inspection (and therefore license tag renewal) were already expired for a month. That's when I started reading CCV replacement threads and noticed that, in those that had pictures of the old parts, hose #4 was frequently (if not always) broken. I knew that a broken CCV hose could cause those codes, so I decided to take a look to see if mine was broken, and....

It's been over 2 years now, and no further lean codes or CCV-related issues for me. I'm definitely happy I didn't have to tear my intake apart to replace that CCV! And I'm also glad the thread seems to be helping out a bunch of folks.
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Old 02-11-2013, 09:23 PM   #82
MySonsBeamer
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Thanks for this thread, this is my son's first car @ 14 years old. 2000 BMW 328i. This is far, far cry from my first vehicle, but I AIN'T SKEERED OF IT! He and I went out this evening after dinner and homework and replaced the lower CCV hose to the oil dipstick in less than 30 minutes and only 3 curse words (me, not him) I didn't want to take the time to order the part via the internet, so I remembered I had a short peice of silicone hose left over from a little emission job I did on my Duramax and just so happened to be the correct size. This car runs like a top now and CEL is out! You nailed it!!!! Thanks Again!
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Old 04-11-2013, 04:36 PM   #83
BeemerGSPilot
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I believe this post is on-topic, but I took my car to the local dealer to service the transmission recently and they performed a "safety check." The most expensive item they recommended ($709) was to "replace oil strainer for engine vent cyclone separator and hoses." I have read a lot here about the CCV (which I assume is the same thing), but I haven't found where anyone has mentioned replacing the oil strainer. Is the oil strainer a euphemism for the CCV and are they saying it should be replaced? From what I have read in this string all the way back to 2010, all I need to do in the way of preventative (my favorite kind) maintenance is replace the hoses. Is that correct? They also recommended replacing the cylinder head cover gaskets ($630) & the oil filter housing gasket ($412). This sounds like the kind of thing that would be good to do all at the same time since it's in the same area and removing the oil filter housing might give me better access to the CCV hoses. Any help is greatly appreciated. I've already finished the cooling system and power steering pump and reservoir, so after this I should be in good shape. I have a 2003 325ci with a little over 100k and haven't had any SES messages, but I have noticed a burning oil smell on occasion. Thanks in advance.
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Old 04-11-2013, 10:58 PM   #84
MySonsBeamer
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BeemerGSPilot- I have had my sons 2000 328I torn apart nine ways to Sunday and I learn something new each time I dive into it. I too have replaced all of the cooling hoses, coolant recovery tank, oil, oil filter, valve cover gskt, Trans fluid, rear diff fluid, lower control arm bushings, brakes (front and rear), 2 ingnition coil packs, complete tune up AND inspected the infamous CCV and associated hoses. The CCV was in good condition but the hose leading from the bottom of the CCV to the pipe that is part of the oil dipstick was all but gone. I was getting CEL with 1188, 1189 code pestering me everytime I turned the key. NO MORE! There was a special hose connector on the bottom of the CCV, the other end was just hose slid over the tubing at the bottom of the oil dipstick tube. All codes left immediately and the car runs like new! This repair cost me 45 min time and approx. $2.00 worth of oil resistant hose which happened to be silicone hose left over from a job I did on my DMAX.
I have heard of the CCV cracking, but most of the ones I've read are all from cold climates. Down here in the South, not a problem. All of the problems mentioned in your post are not difficult ones if you are just a little bit mechanically inclined. Hardest thing is bending over for a long period of time. That's why my son gets involved. It is, however, his car!!
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Old 09-10-2013, 04:34 AM   #85
moreese
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what is the ivc and where can find it everything you said was really helpful and thank you but could those be due to bad o2 sensor I replaced vent hose already
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Old 10-14-2013, 09:19 PM   #86
jwedd
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another thumbs up for this DIY! The '99 323i with 185k threw the 1188 and 1189 codes a couple weeks back. Even though I had checked the hose 3 months ago, I could feel that it was still the original factory hose with the poorly designed 90 degree elbow, so I got one ordered and installed. Everything went great! There was just a small hole about the size of a popcorn kernal at the end of the elbow, and the rubber was soft and disintegrating. The hardest part of the job was getting the old hose off the dipstick tube, I ended up using a box cutter to split it lengthwise and it came off fine after that.

The power steering hose doesn't need to get moved at all. The 2 electrical connectors are easily moved and provide enough access to get to the fitting. 30 min job.
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Old 10-18-2013, 04:19 PM   #87
BeemerGSPilot
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Since the above posting in April, I have finished replacing the valve cover gasket, the oil filter housing gasket, the CCV valve and hoses, the oil level sensor, the forward O2 sensors (pre-cat converter), the air filter, cabin filter, throttle body gasket, rebuilt the disa valve and changed the oil and filter. Most things went well, although they always took longer than expected. I found information on this forum to be very helpful, but with one caveat, which is that information is often presented as though all e46s are the same and that is definitely not true. I found significant differences in several instances between my 2003 325ci and what had been posted for a generic e46.

One case was for replacement of the CCV valve and hoses. Although it is good to do that at the same time you replace the OFH gasket, that alone will not be enough for you to have the necessary access. On my car, you will also have to remove the disa valve and throttle body in order to get to the screws that hold it in place as well as to be able to route and seat the hoses onto the CCV so you get a solid 'click' and tight connection. As far as replacing the hoses is concerned, IMO that is a no-brainer. I found my hoses to be very hard and brittle to the point it would have been ridiculous to try to save money on hose replacement.

Also, in order to replace the oil level sensor, you will have to work a lot harder on my year model than you apparently do on earlier models where the sensor was pictured to be out in the open in the forward part of the oil pan. In my case there was a large, thich, heavy aluminum plate that covered the oilpan and sensor that was held on with 8, 17mm bolts and the sensor was at the rear of the pan on the driver's side. Since I was working alone in my garage with a jack and jack-stands, it was pretty difficult to get that plate out of the way enough to have access to the oil level sensor. I left one loosened bolt holding it in place so I could rotate it out of the way because I knew it would be a bear to get it back in place and get a bolt started while trying to hold it in place with one hand. Then, after I had finished replacing the sensor, I re-tightened the loose bolt and guided the plate so it would line up with the other holes and then added a couple more of the bolts across the front of the plate. I would highly advise anyone working under those same conditions to either do the same thing or have someone help you. On the plus side, removing the alternator so I could get access to the OFH was a piece of cake compared to what some other people said they had to do, so that went pretty smoothlly.

If anyone with a 325 close to the same year as mine is about to tackle any of these jobs and would like more information, feel free to contact me and I can go into more detail if needed.
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Old 10-19-2013, 02:25 PM   #88
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Well, add another one to the list. I had p0171 and p0174 and after doing some research, found this thread and thank goodness my hose was split almost in 2! I was so happy and thankful. Ordered the hose from rockauto and did the install today. If anyone has problems installing, like me, I may have another access point. My hands were far to big to get in from the top, so i went in from below. I already had the bottom cover off for some other maintenance, so I thought I'd give it a shot. The only issue I had was I had to work by feel. I could see it, but not when my hands were on it. There was a loom of wires in the way below the nipple, so I reused the 90 degree elbow in the new hose and it worked fine. I could not get the 45 degree elbow on there because of that wire loom lurking just below the nipple. Hope this helps someone in the future. Thanks
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Old 11-06-2013, 05:21 PM   #89
ndz
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Thanks for this thread. Add one more to the list. CCV to dipstick hose 11157532649 was completely cut below the elbow. RockAuto had the URO replacement hose for $7.07+ship. With the airbox out, I also cut an inch off both PS reservoir hoses to stop small PS leaks.

Symptoms:
- low idle surges when cold (I'm unsure if this is fixed yet.....)
- P1188,P1189,P0170,P0173,P0150

2000 528i/5 M52TU 121k miles.
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Old 11-24-2013, 01:43 PM   #90
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Updating my previous post above. Another cool Florida morning (50's F) -- low idle surges remain and codes are back:

P0170 fuel trim bank 1
P0173 fuel trim bank 2
P1188 fuel air meter
P1189 fuel air meter
P0305 Cyl 5 misfire
P0306 Cyl 6 misfire

I believe the misfire codes only appear if the car sits and idles with low surges before it is warmed up.

I thought the CCV to dipstick hose may have fixed P1188 and P1199 but they are back. Onward with more vacuum leak hunting... I ordered an intake boot (elbow is prone to leak) and will replace that when I do my idlers / alternator / and OFH gasket next week. Original CCV / DISA / VANOS at 121k but no failure symptoms.
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Last edited by ndz; 11-25-2013 at 03:36 PM.
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Old 12-26-2013, 08:52 PM   #91
mtx1
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Just wanted to say THANKS!! This fixed my cold idle & misfire issue throwing 1189, 1188, and 2 misfire codes. Replaced DISA valve and same issue. Found this thread and bought the hose for $25 at local BMW stealership. Mine was broke in the same spot. Problem solved car runs better and no SES light. Cold idle is perfext now. Thanks for posting this!
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Old 12-26-2013, 09:12 PM   #92
jwedd
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mtx1, it's very likely the start of a long row of rubber hose cleanup. My '99 has what looks like endless plastic and rubber projects ahead. I'm going to kit the entire CCV next. I just may get disgusted enough to pull the entire intake off and go through the rubber piece by piece. Sheesh, what messy situation BMW has given us.

John/Fresno
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Old 02-22-2014, 03:44 PM   #93
ndz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ndz View Post
Thanks for this thread. Add one more to the list. CCV to dipstick hose 11157532649 was completely cut below the elbow. RockAuto had the URO replacement hose for $7.07+ship. With the airbox out, I also cut an inch off both PS reservoir hoses to stop small PS leaks.

Symptoms:
- low idle surges when cold (I'm unsure if this is fixed yet.....)
- P1188,P1189,P0170,P0173,P0150

2000 528i/5 M52TU 121k miles.
ALERT, ALERT, - DO NOT buy the URO replacement. The new URO part failed after three months. Hose ripped at both ends. Get OEM, your dealer may have them in stock (mine did).
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Last edited by ndz; 02-23-2014 at 08:29 AM.
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Old 02-23-2014, 10:00 PM   #94
jwedd
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my URO hose was still perfect, 6 months later. I had replaced just the cracked hose a few months back, and then bought an entire kit from ECS (also was URO parts).

It's the plastic fitting portion that seems cheap.

John
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Old 02-24-2014, 10:27 AM   #95
ndz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwedd View Post
my URO hose was still perfect, 6 months later. I had replaced just the cracked hose a few months back, and then bought an entire kit from ECS (also was URO parts).

It's the plastic fitting portion that seems cheap.

John
On my e39 you can see the bottom of the hose where it attaches to the dipstick with a flashlight so it's easy to keep an eye on. I was surprised when the other end of the hose was split just as bad. It could be bad luck but I won't take the chance on URO again.

Plus, the fitting on the OEM part snapped on the CCV much better.
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Old 04-16-2014, 08:15 PM   #96
tegboi
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I had the P1188 and P1189 codes as well, for quite a long time actually. Just a couple days ago I had a misfire and went down to check things under the intake manifold. This hose as all of you was torn in two, took it off, used some fuel line I had, used the original top plastic elbow, and back on it went.

Now I still have the P1188, P1189, P0170, P0305, P0306, P0304, P0301, and P0130.

Time to keep hunting. The CCV seems like the culprit now.
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