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Lighting Forum
Angel Eyes, DDEs, lighted rings, Clear Turn Signals, LEDs, Xenon, HID, or Bi-Xenon. If it lights up and you want to discuss it, post here!

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Old 07-25-2013, 10:54 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMW-JB View Post
To remove assy video

To remove assy pix http://www.bigpatsfans.com/hl/headlight.htm

To remove projector pix http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=332078

To remove projector video
none of those will work for a facelift coupe. btw, i believe DIY links are also posted in my thread (for taking apart headlights for the other e46s)
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Old 07-25-2013, 10:56 PM   #42
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That is sort of what I figured, I have experience doing automotive chassis and ecu wiring harnesses but I couldn't figure out how to get the damn thing out.

Thanks for the reply, is there any guide on how to remove the projector assembly from the headlight housing?

Sean
there's no guide for the FL coupe headlights. but I highly recommend that you DO NOT try to lol. it's a bitch, and you'll probably never figure out how to put it back lol

I would just try to repair the wiring with everything in place. it's a little harder to maneuver, but way easier than trying to take the projector apart without breaking anything.

normally the insulation breaks at the connector, so it's a pretty easy fix.
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Old 08-12-2013, 11:53 AM   #43
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I am going to give it all a shot today, I bought several sizes of heat shrink and I think I am going to try and just make one cut and shrink it over the whole thing then solder it back and cover the cut with more heat shrink.

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Old 08-27-2013, 06:53 PM   #44
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Thanks to your thread, I was able to replace my igniter on my own, much appreciated!
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Old 09-02-2013, 05:42 PM   #45
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Maybe add the dash-board lights to this. All the rest of the bulbs are easy to find, the dash lights are a bit harder.
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Old 09-02-2013, 05:49 PM   #46
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Old 09-02-2013, 07:40 PM   #47
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Thanks to your thread, I was able to replace my igniter on my own, much appreciated!
you're welcome

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Maybe add the dash-board lights to this. All the rest of the bulbs are easy to find, the dash lights are a bit harder.
what do you mean by dash-board? as in the LEDs for the cluster and stuff? those aren't really user replaceable.

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Old 09-02-2013, 08:04 PM   #48
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you're welcome



what do you mean by dash-board? as in the LEDs for the cluster and stuff? those aren't really user replaceable.



what's up man?
You know. Staying busy with work. Saw this thread randomly pop up. Figured I would stop in and say hello! How ya been?


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Old 09-02-2013, 11:11 PM   #49
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You know. Staying busy with work. Saw this thread randomly pop up. Figured I would stop in and say hello! How ya been?


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i see. it's been ok. how's life been for you? i haven't seen you online in months. work must be crazy for you or something.
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Old 09-02-2013, 11:44 PM   #50
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what do you mean by dash-board? as in the LEDs for the cluster and stuff? those aren't really user replaceable.
I saw a DIY for the LED display but are the instrument lights fixable? My temp gauge light went out. I did a diagnostic run with INPA and when it tested the cluster, it reported an error but during the test operation the light came back on. It died again after a few days.
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Old 09-03-2013, 01:27 AM   #51
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I saw a DIY for the LED display but are the instrument lights fixable? My temp gauge light went out. I did a diagnostic run with INPA and when it tested the cluster, it reported an error but during the test operation the light came back on. It died again after a few days.
the cluster lights are all LEDs. it's different on some clusters. it could be the LEDs that are bad or even the resistor itself. it's fixable if you know what you are doing. I'm not sure anyone knows the resistor values, so if it's that, you're generally SOL. the LEDs are easy to replace if you know how to solder surface mount LEDs
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Old 09-03-2013, 05:19 AM   #52
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the cluster lights are all LEDs. it's different on some clusters. it could be the LEDs that are bad or even the resistor itself. it's fixable if you know what you are doing. I'm not sure anyone knows the resistor values, so if it's that, you're generally SOL. the LEDs are easy to replace if you know how to solder surface mount LEDs
If the resistor is standard coded, you can read its value from its color bands. My guess is, I take the cluster out, separate the main board from the housing and replace the LED and resistor. Not too many suppliers around here, should Radio Shack carry the LEDs?
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Old 09-03-2013, 01:26 PM   #53
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If the resistor is standard coded, you can read its value from its color bands. My guess is, I take the cluster out, separate the main board from the housing and replace the LED and resistor. Not too many suppliers around here, should Radio Shack carry the LEDs?
they are smd resistors that don't have any markings. i don't think radioshack has the LEDs. they should be plcc-2 LEDs (usually that's what they are, but some models had different LEDs). i think radioshack only sells 2-5mm LEDs.

but if they do have the LEDs, then yeah, just remove and replace. hopefully it'll work fine since we have no way of know what Vf the original LED is
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Old 09-03-2013, 02:13 PM   #54
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they are smd resistors that don't have any markings. i don't think radioshack has the LEDs. they should be plcc-2 LEDs (usually that's what they are, but some models had different LEDs). i think radioshack only sells 2-5mm LEDs.

but if they do have the LEDs, then yeah, just remove and replace. hopefully it'll work fine since we have no way of know what Vf the original LED is
I think Im screwed. Since a cluster activation made it come on for a while, I'm going to try reflowing the solder joints at the LED and resistor. If that doesn't work, I'll look for a cluster to cannibalize.
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Old 09-03-2013, 02:18 PM   #55
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I think Im screwed. Since a cluster activation made it come on for a while, I'm going to try reflowing the solder joints at the LED and resistor. If that doesn't work, I'll look for a cluster to cannibalize.
yeah that would probably be the best solution.
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Old 09-04-2013, 04:53 PM   #56
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yeah that would probably be the best solution.
Thanks. And thanks for putting this thread together. I'm sure it as helped a few people.
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Old 10-26-2013, 12:15 PM   #57
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Hey, sillie, First of all GREAT write up, i hope my problem can be added to it, from reading many of your Q/A and posts you recommend checking the grounds in the vehicle as a first approach. And we do have a lot of grounds in these vehicles. Anyways my situation is i recently changed the left (driver's side) tail light because a couple of the LED burnt out. All was working good until this morning after parking the car at work i looked back and noticed the lefthand rear light was on. All other lights was off. I went back and turned on all the lights and then turned them off, i did this a couple of times but the left (driver's side) stayed on. My ride-- 2006 330Cic with Oem led tails, i am lost
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Old 10-26-2013, 12:27 PM   #58
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Check your turn signal stalk, make sure it's in the off position...


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Old 10-26-2013, 01:08 PM   #59
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[QUOTE=ikeupinya;157Check your turn signal stalk, make sure it's in the off position...


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I just went back out and tried it swear you guys are geniuses i think Pres. OBAMA should give you guys an award, well at lest a six pack or some good Jamaican weed, you guys took a load of stress off me. Thanks and thanks and its not the first time you all helped me. I owe you two six pack or, nuff respect everytime
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Old 10-26-2013, 04:04 PM   #60
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I just went back out and tried it swear you guys are geniuses i think Pres. OBAMA should give you guys an award, well at lest a six pack or some good Jamaican weed, you guys took a load of stress off me. Thanks and thanks and its not the first time you all helped me. I owe you two six pack or, nuff respect everytime
It's a European parking light feature, shut the car off, move the stalk to the side you want to turn on and the front and rear park lights stay on. This marks the outside of the car with less drain on the battery.
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