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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 07-28-2011, 03:01 PM   #21
Shanealan
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Great right up!!!!!

It worked like a charm, but I have some minor details to save you some time and frustration.

When you are ready to remove the AC hoses from the compressor, remove the AC left hand side 6mm Allen key bolt to the compressor first. Then you can move that AC hose out of the way and tackle the other 6mm bolt without any interference.

Also the trigger wire to the compressor just pulls out! I was trying to turn it out believing it had a thread!

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Old 08-03-2011, 02:05 AM   #22
KuyaPatrick
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I just replaced my Evap and about to replace my drier. Do I have to replace the compressor?
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Old 09-25-2011, 10:24 PM   #23
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Great write up. I don't understand where to connect the flush tool? http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...70&hg=64&fg=60
Can anybody show me on the diagram? Or maybe on a picture?
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Old 09-27-2011, 02:49 PM   #24
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Bump! Which line feeds the condenser? Please help.
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Old 10-14-2011, 11:48 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phamine View Post
The drier is required if you're replacing the compressor?

My issue is different. I did an engine swap and the crank pulley from the new motor(2006) has 4 ribs while the compressor has 5 (2001).
If there a way that I can just remove the pulley? Would a new drier be needed?

Hi,

Could you someone clarify it that we need replace drier or not when we replace the compressor?

thank you guys.
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Old 10-14-2011, 11:55 AM   #26
'busa
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From my understanding, yes. Once you open up the system, your drier is no longer good.
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Old 10-15-2011, 10:17 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KuyaPatrick View Post
I just replaced my Evap and about to replace my drier. Do I have to replace the compressor?
You do not need to replace the compressor. You would replace the compressor only when it is bad.

The drier is replaced anyting the system is open to outside atmosphere. If you remove and replace any part of your system, then you should replace the drier. It is a dessicant and absorbs moisture.

If you:
replace the evaporator, replace the drier
replace the condenser, replace the drier
replace the compressor, replace the drier
replace the hoses, replace the drier

If you:
just charge and recharge R134a, then no drier replacement.


Always pull a vacuum on the system before recharging a system that you have change parts on.
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Old 10-27-2011, 12:22 AM   #28
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Uhm... Can I / Need I / How to flush system if I don't replace the compressor? If I replace a dryer and expansion valve only, for example? I don't feel good to flush it with a compressor connected; probably I'd need to disconnect pipes from the compressor anyway, right?
Where to get that flush tool, does it require air compressor?
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Old 11-17-2011, 05:53 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xeus View Post
Bump! Which line feeds the condenser? Please help.
The line that comes FROM compressor.
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Old 09-11-2012, 10:11 AM   #30
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This is a really helpful DIY. But I am confused on how to flush the system. Most bottles of a/c flush, and most sites I've read, recommend that the expansion valve NOT be flushed. I assume this is because particulates loosened in the flush might jam in the small orifice of the expansion valve. On our cars, I thought the expansion valve was connected to the evaporator deep in the dash. If so, how do you flush the evaporator without also potentially gumming up the expansion valve?
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Old 09-11-2012, 10:56 AM   #31
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The expansion valve is NOT buried deep in the dash. It is accessible from within the engine compartment. Take out you fresh air filter right above the engine and on the firewall. If you remove the expansion valve, you can flush the evaporator. Then you can also clean the expansion valve, since it is out and the particles in it can be sprayed.

You need a small torx bit for the expansion valve.

Last edited by BMWCaptain; 09-11-2012 at 10:57 AM.
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Old 09-11-2012, 11:07 AM   #32
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DIY: A/C expansion valve replacement

You are not supposed to flush the expansion valve, compressor and dryer. You must flush A/C evaporator, condenser and all hoses.
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Old 09-11-2012, 01:40 PM   #33
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Thanks for setting me straight!
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Old 09-15-2012, 02:17 PM   #34
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Are the bolts holding the a/c lines treated with loctite? These bolts, and the ones on the expansion valve take a lot of force to release, and they release with a snap before easily turning out, making me think they are treated with a thread locker.
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Old 05-25-2013, 04:52 PM   #35
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Very handy thread for me, my clutch has gone up in smoke today
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Old 05-28-2013, 09:57 AM   #36
David McMahon
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Here's a tip, the bottom of the hoses connecting to the Drier are very sharp! Thick gloves are an idea here, ask me how I know!
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Old 07-20-2013, 11:26 PM   #37
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working on this as we speak. woulda been done but have a minor 3 day set back waiting for the right part to come in. for the '99 323i guys like me. Autozone has the wrong dryer / receiver part for our car. we need the 2000 part. its longer , more like a cylinder . they have a short and stubby on file. and there's only (1) screw per a/c hose . and when your filling the compressor with oil, you have to turn the clutch as you pour. overall great write up.
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Old 07-20-2013, 11:28 PM   #38
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and! its not a 6mm allen wrench . its a torx t-40
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Old 08-19-2013, 04:40 AM   #39
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guys, I'm trying to replace magnetic clutch, since only the bearing making loud noises, beside that compressor still ok, blowing cold air. but on my way to open the outer clutch plate by removing 10mm bolts, then I seems can't take out those outer plate from the clutch pulley. is there's any other bolts need to removed? your inputs highly appreciated.
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Old 10-29-2013, 08:11 AM   #40
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I did an A/C system rebuild using this DIY and others as a guide. This was very helpful. A few notes about my re-build:

I replaced every o-ring in the system when I disconnected everything. This is never a bad idea, and it is recommended in almost all DIY's that I read.

The expansion valve DIY that is referenced earlier in this thread does not give the job its proper respect as far as degree of difficulty is concerned. The valve bolts to a plate that is not retained axially. It is just a plate that slides freely on the tubes that go to the evaporator. In order to fasten the valve to the plate you must sneak a tool behind this plate to retain it. I used a right-angle pick to do the job. Space is limited and you will be uncomfortable because you are bent over the whole time.

Make sure you take into account the oil that comes shipped inside of the new compressor! I was rushed, and like an idiot, I rotated the pulley on the front of the compressor instead of the plate at the front of the compressor as I tried to pour out the oil and I was surprised (at the time) to see that no oil came out. I did not realize my mistake until everything was bolted onto the car and 8 oz. of PAG 46 oil was added to the compressor and receiver/drier. It is possible that I ended up with more oil in the system than recommended as a result. It turns out that my system worked fine after the vacuum and recharge, but nonetheless it was a silly mistake. Moral of the story-- do not rush!

-John
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