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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 04-03-2013, 01:35 AM   #1
iRide113
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Talking DIY: Additioanl Glove Box Outlets and USB Charging!

So this really isn't a new idea, but I can't remember where the idea came from, but here is my first DIY. I searched to see if I could find anything similar on here, but couldn't find something exactly like it. So if there is another like this, feel free to let me know, and I'll ask a mod to remove the thread!

Mod Name: Glove box charging!
Mod Cost: Depends on the outlet you choose
Mod Benefit: More outlets and USB charging

Finished Product:




Part List:
Add-a-Circuit (Direct Wire Fuse kit)
Inline Fuse Holder (Radio Shack) holds 5x20mm fuses
6.3A 5x20mm fuse
sheet metal screw
20 Gauge wire
18-22 Gauge butt connectors
3M Double Sided Tape
Outlet (the one I used)

Instructions:


Step 1:
Remove the glove compartment.

Step 2:
Prep the adapter. Cut the wires, find which one is positive (use a multimeter) and wire in the in-line fuse to the positive wire.




Step 3:
We need to find a fuse that only gets switched on with the ignition. I chose Fuse #26 which is the Garage Door Opener. Place the 'add a circuit' in the fuse slot, and then add the original 5A Garage Door Opener fuse along with another 5A fuse to the two open slots on it.




Step 4:
Drill a small hole in the right bracket by the fuse box to make a ground. Make sure your drill bit isn't cheap, because the metal is pretty strong. Attach a ground cable using a eyelet.




Step 5:
Run the wire from the fuse box up, behind the whole fuse module and then do the same with the ground - make it as neat as possible.


Step 6:
Attach the wires from the fuse and ground to the postive/negative leads coming from the outlet module using the butt connectors.




Step 7:
Attach the outlet module to the metal top using the 3M tape, put the glove box back on, and viola! You now have extra outlets in your glove box!


Last edited by iRide113; 04-04-2013 at 05:21 AM.
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Old 04-05-2013, 12:09 AM   #2
Ballistic325
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Nice and neat... only downside as it appears is that the glove box would need to be open in order to access the additional ports. Unless there's a way of threading the cables through somehow.
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Old 04-05-2013, 12:12 AM   #3
iRide113
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ballistic325 View Post
Nice and neat... only downside as it appears is that the glove box would need to be open in order to access the additional ports. Unless there's a way of threading the cables through somehow.
Well for my phone, I just plug it into the USB and then close the glove box with having the cable come out of it, and it works perfectly. I haven't had a problem with having cables come out of the glove box while it's closed. You can still move the cables around and everything.
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Old 04-07-2013, 01:43 AM   #4
Rezist09
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dope im thinking of doing this but add it in the back
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Old 04-07-2013, 01:51 AM   #5
iRide113
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rezist09 View Post
dope im thinking of doing this but add it in the back
In the back, as in?
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Old 10-15-2013, 10:29 AM   #6
Knight
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Have been looking for something like this. Super clean install and directions. Thank you sir!
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Old 10-15-2013, 07:14 PM   #7
iRide113
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You're welcome!
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Old 10-15-2013, 07:45 PM   #8
TnT817
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Hmm I wonder if theres enough space behind the sunglasses tray to put one flush with the backside of it?
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Old 10-15-2013, 07:47 PM   #9
iRide113
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TnT817 View Post
Hmm I wonder if theres enough space behind the sunglasses tray to put one flush with the backside of it?
More than likely. I don't have my sunglasses tray anymore because I opted for a Dynavin instead.
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Old 10-28-2013, 02:04 PM   #10
Knight
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Do you think there will be any issue using 16 gauge wire instead? I ask because I have a ton of 16 gauge lying around but no 20 gauge.
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Old 10-28-2013, 02:05 PM   #11
iRide113
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I don't think there will be a problem. As long as the fuses are in place, you should be fine.
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Old 10-28-2013, 03:06 PM   #12
Knight
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Same 6.3A 5x20 fuse I assume?
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Old 10-28-2013, 07:51 PM   #13
iRide113
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Yes.
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Old 10-29-2013, 10:04 AM   #14
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Thanks!
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Old 11-07-2013, 01:24 AM   #15
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I began doing some prep work, and found just one insulated wire once I cut the adapter, with exposed wire wrapped around it.

It looks grounded to the metal cylinders, but not sure how to ground this to the bracket like you instructed. Do I twist the exposed part into a butt connector and add an insulated wire at the other end, or is the existing ground sufficient?
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Old 11-11-2013, 01:52 PM   #16
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I tested the wires with a multimeter to verify that the exposed wire is a ground. Makes sense, although the ground wrapped around the positive wire was something I didn't expect.

I then used a heat shrink tube to insulate the exposed ground wire, wrapped the split point from the original insulation with electrical tape and finally sealed it off with a larger piece of shrink tubing. The end result is below:
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Old 11-17-2013, 04:06 PM   #17
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Well, after checking Radioshack, Autozone and Walmart, no one seems to have an inline fuse holder that meets the spec listed. For anyone looking to do something similar, I bought this one off eBay. Now waiting for it come in so I can finish this wiring!
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Old 11-20-2013, 03:37 PM   #18
Gus330vrum
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Only in the e46fanatic forum members are willing to write this hundreds of DIY

very nice!
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Old 11-24-2013, 02:05 AM   #19
Knight
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Installation Complete

Sorry to have taken over this thread, but the final pieces arrived and the installation is complete.

The first photo captures the prepped extension and the second captures the extension installed and mounted in the glovebox. It sits flush and from a normal seated position, is completely hidden from view.

Afterwards I ran a flat USB cable behind the glovebox, around the center console and under the steering column. While a rounded cable can be easily run around, I used a flat one specifically to fit behind the wooden trim surrounding the LCM.

Add an adapter, zip ties and some heat shrink to get an added bonus of stealth wiring a GPS, which is seen in the final photo.

A few differences from the original instructions:

1. I ended up using 16 gauge wiring for everything. This is what the all the components used, and I only purchased items that were well reviewed or were from reputable brands.

2. Instead of a sheet metal screw, I used a small bolt and nut for the ground eyelet. That thing isn't going anywhere.

3. After crimping the butt connectors, I taped the ends and heat shrunk anything that I could. Overkill, but since my previous experience in touching automotive electrical components is limited to hard wiring a radar detector, overkill was the intent.

Also, after completion and running a bunch of tests, I noticed some odd behavior, specifically, interruption in music playing when touching ANY of the controls (window switches, fog lights, etc.). I tried to start the car and it would not at first. Took a few turns before it finally fired up. I let it run for a few moments and then attempted to restart. Fired up right away. Went for a drive and monitored the battery voltage via the OBC menu, and everything was within range. I attribute this to an older battery and having run many things during testing without starting the car.

I am confident in this setup because it is double fused and has power ONLY when the key is turned.

This thread was a huge help for me, and hopefully can be for others as well.
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Last edited by Knight; 11-24-2013 at 04:23 AM.
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Old 04-29-2014, 11:21 PM   #20
yappering
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Never mind

Last edited by yappering; 05-01-2014 at 12:20 AM.
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