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Old 09-30-2013, 10:48 AM   #81
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Bobby,

It is, they are at 78% duty cycle with the turbo pushing around 54 lbs a min.
Is the FPR boost referenced?

If it's not, there's some headroom left there by attaching manifold pressure line to the top port of the FPR.
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Old 09-30-2013, 12:40 PM   #82
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Is the FPR boost referenced?

If it's not, there's some headroom left there by attaching manifold pressure line to the top port of the FPR.
It is referenced inline with the manifold. I had it set to a static 50psi, then preceded to look up to the manifold.

Not to worried about maxing out this injectors, as I'm already pushing the limits of the motor, I'm already looking at changing the whole setup hopefully, in the near future.
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Old 10-16-2013, 12:09 AM   #83
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I've been following this for awhile and i love it. its awesome! definately have a lot of questions for you, as i will be wanting to do this in the future..

A) why did you steer away from the top mount setup? it doesnt look like theres much room for anything, but it looks easier than the bottom mount setup.

B) Why not have ESS tuning or Goodspeed do the tune?

C) how many miles were on the car prior to adding boost?

Ive been lurking around a little bit and am fairly new to FI. Im thinking of a garrett GT35 with a custom tube top mount manifold. Low comp. forged internals etc. i ould like to be arount 600 - 800whp. not sure if thats achievable with the m54 but i figured it was worth a shot.
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Old 10-16-2013, 02:10 AM   #84
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I've been following this for awhile and i love it. its awesome! definately have a lot of questions for you, as i will be wanting to do this in the future..

A) why did you steer away from the top mount setup? it doesnt look like theres much room for anything, but it looks easier than the bottom mount setup.

B) Why not have ESS tuning or Goodspeed do the tune?

C) how many miles were on the car prior to adding boost?

Ive been lurking around a little bit and am fairly new to FI. Im thinking of a garrett GT35 with a custom tube top mount manifold. Low comp. forged internals etc. i would like to be around 600 - 800whp. not sure if thats achievable with the m54 but i figured it was worth a shot.
A) I had a top-mount setup, but heat seamed to be an issue, with a plastic valve cover, coil pack distributor it didn't help. In-fact the plastic started to catch on fire, thankfully I had a fire extinguisher on hand! Now that I look back top-mounts are just for show, as heat is a constant problem, and rapping the manifold/turbo just creates problems after the hot-cold cycles and cracks form. Now if you had a 2JZ motor, there would be no question.

B) First off I like to tweak therefore going to someone to "tune" the stock DME would not work, as I had changed my setup, and want to improve on it. Secondly, the stock ECU only has a few safety features, knock, and sensor malfunction --> limp-mode therefore only one of the few standalone' EMS's that had much more features that just about ALL others was Pro EFI. The CAN bus talked to the EMS so it saw all the sensors, and I was able to keep the dash without Christmas lights on ( DSC, EML, SEL etc.) Plus they would probably want alot of $ to spend the time to tune my car

C) car had ~100k miles pre-boosted, and now I've racked on 36k miles.

GT35 would be perfect in 600+ whp. It is defiantly doable if you have it built No real need to do low-compression now-a-days, with how good the ECMs are. there are a number of cars making big power on mid-high compression.

Top-mount vs bottom mount.. they both have pros and cons

while you have heat issues on top, some other things to consider: A/C lines in the way, little room for decent air filter, downpipe size routing(next to firewall), no scavenge pump needed!

Bottom mount: journal bearing turbos defiantly need a scavenge pump, WG can be a pain to fab while keeping low-profile for ground clearance, extra heat? no problem, A/C compressor is in the way for turbo inlet (i just ripped out my A/C and ran a 4" intake pipe ) With the scavenge pump its best to fab up an oil reservoir coming from turbo, so it can delay spikes of oil pressure (as saad racing found out...)

I hope you follow through with it!
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Old 10-30-2013, 08:47 PM   #85
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thanks for the reply dude! i'm thinking of doing a top mount setup but i figured the plastic valve cover would be a problem. i've been wondering if a metal heat shield could be built to dissipate most of the heat. i wont be able to do any of this soon, hopefully wanting to start on it late next year. but its definately my plan. i've wanted to do an ls or 2jz swap but wiring isnt my strong point and id probably give up before i got started haha
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Old 10-30-2013, 11:12 PM   #86
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thanks for the reply dude! i'm thinking of doing a top mount setup but i figured the plastic valve cover would be a problem. i've been wondering if a metal heat shield could be built to dissipate most of the heat. i wont be able to do any of this soon, hopefully wanting to start on it late next year. but its definately my plan. i've wanted to do an ls or 2jz swap but wiring isnt my strong point and id probably give up before i got started haha
Yes the plastic valve cover wont last long, depending on your driving style. It seams like people whom have top-mount turbos on their bmw's are mainly for show, if you try to race it or get on it all the time, your valve cover will warp. You can try heat shielding it add a turbo blanket, double rapping downpipe that will mitigate it, but wont be 100%. There has been a couple people whom have done an LSx and 2JZ swap (e46 platform) that you could get more info for it. but its not for the faint of heart everyday DIYer.
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Old 10-31-2013, 02:47 AM   #87
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A/C compressor is in the way for turbo inlet (i just ripped out my A/C and ran a 4" intake pipe )
That A/C compressor AND the front sway bar are big obstacles.

Removing the A/C compressor certainly is one way to do it, but you CAN fit a 4" intake pipe.

It took me a couple of iterations, and a fairly expensive pile of pipe....but in the end I HAVE fit a 4" inlet and utilized a massive air filter as well while keeping all of the OEM A/C system in place.

I know...where are the pictures? Don't have any yet...
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Old 10-31-2013, 03:22 AM   #88
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That A/C compressor AND the front sway bar are big obstacles.

Removing the A/C compressor certainly is one way to do it, but you CAN fit a 4" intake pipe.

It took me a couple of iterations, and a fairly expensive pile of pipe....but in the end I HAVE fit a 4" inlet and utilized a massive air filter as well while keeping all of the OEM A/C system in place.

I know...where are the pictures? Don't have any yet...
my hat is off to you keeping the A/C system intact. I literally took a 4" tubing from scrap intersection light post (90 degree) and just cut it down to size, call me ghetto, but it fits perfect

I'll have to take a better picture of my setup one of these days
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Old 10-31-2013, 09:34 PM   #89
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God I want the money to do this right now. Car will be driven hard but it will not be driven daily. Now I'm thinking of a heat shield and some sort of ram air duct through the hood
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Old 11-16-2013, 05:36 PM   #90
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dyno day!

so I found out at a local car meet this morning that a shop was doing a dyno day, and for the price I did not hesitate. I didn't bring my laptop to make any tuning changes between pulls, but found out that I was spiking 26psi, and that it was breaking up (spark was getting blown out) therefore I didn't make as much power as it should.

While some may say there is up to a 12% loss in the mustang dyno, I still have decent numbers considering the hiccups. Made more TQ that HP, that surprised me!


(looks like he's easing into it)
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Old 11-24-2013, 10:12 PM   #91
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Are you running an oil cooler? What oil do you use?
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Old 11-25-2013, 03:28 AM   #92
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Are you running an oil cooler? What oil do you use?
no oil cooler. I do shell t4 full syn 5w40, as its the cheapest syn oil that Id run, that still does okay, especially since my car eats 2 qts of oil every 3k.
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Old 11-25-2013, 01:30 PM   #93
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What are your oil temps?
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Old 11-25-2013, 01:46 PM   #94
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What are your oil temps?
I have no idea, as I have the oil temp sensor removed (for turbo feed line)I just play it safe and let it cool down (idle) for a couple minutes after hard runs.
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Old 11-25-2013, 05:25 PM   #95
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Ehhhhh. That's kinda scary IMO. I'm looking at possibly relocating the oil temp sensor relocated so I can install this.

http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-10...r-housing.aspx

My factory oil filter housing is cracked at the mount anyway.
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Old 11-25-2013, 05:53 PM   #96
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Ehhhhh. That's kinda scary IMO. I'm looking at possibly relocating the oil temp sensor relocated so I can install this.

http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-10...r-housing.aspx

My factory oil filter housing is cracked at the mount anyway.
its really not that scary, this setup "works" but is not the best, as I had little downtime and made the mistake to do this to my DD. that oil filter housing is one way to do it. Eventually when I have the time, $ and space I'll redo my whole setup, and have a built motor. I'll tig weld a AN fitting onto the oil housing, fab a intake and exhaust manifold also. That is if I end up with a M54 motor, other wise it will be a S54.
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Old 11-25-2013, 10:32 PM   #97
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Keep the M54. Show what the underdog engine can do. Especially the 2.5.

Keep the motivation for modifying these engines up so more and more people can do it as well.
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Old 11-26-2013, 02:40 AM   #98
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Keep the M54. Show what the underdog engine can do. Especially the 2.5.

Keep the motivation for modifying these engines up so more and more people can do it as well.
We will see, there are some annoying hurtles that I'd have to overcome with the M54 Intake manifold design (w/DBW, and ICV), whole different oil pump(doesn't like high RPM w/out self-destructing), and upgraded the head hardware) that is already done in the S54. For get the 2.5L I'd at least do a 3L.
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Old 11-26-2013, 11:02 AM   #99
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Wouldn't a crankshaft dampener help out with the oil pump vibrations? Or is the oil pump on these engines not even driven by the crankshaft. Or is the oil pump itself made out of potato chips and pritt stick?
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Old 11-26-2013, 09:52 PM   #100
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Wouldn't a crankshaft dampener help out with the oil pump vibrations? Or is the oil pump on these engines not even driven by the crankshaft. Or is the oil pump itself made out of potato chips and pritt stick?
even though its driven by the crankshaft via chain, dampener wouldn't do anything. I have not personally experienced this weakness, but there are several others on here, whom track their cars and or rev higher than 6.5k rpms that had some catastrophic results. There are ways to "band-aid" the issue, via special nut/rig, but still doesn't fix the internal issue.
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