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Go Back   E46Fanatics > E46 BMW > E46 Convertible

E46 Convertible
The E46 vert forum. Talk about dropping your E46 top here.

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Old 12-05-2012, 08:58 PM   #21
djsilver
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wes2952 View Post
I have a similar problem with my top. Wanted to check out the wiring harness at the first pivot point from the top front. I have to manually unlock the top from the windshield. When I try to manually open the top futher to get a little play in the wiring harness the top is a bit stiff and will not easily pivot up. Worried about what would happen if I try forcing it. Is there an easier way to do this?
When you want to pull the top front up, you have to pull the back up as well to get slack. Remember that when the top operates automatically, the front and back come up at the same time, when the back clears the cover, the cover comes up, then the whole thing folds into the storage compartment.
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Old 12-06-2012, 08:43 AM   #22
fmzip
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Actually I think that is incorrect. The sequence is the cab lid unlocks, the front opens, then the back lifts. If you can't lift the front enough the cab lid is likely locked and or there is still pressure in the system

1) Use the allen key and manually release the top (completely). Crank until you can't crank any further
1a) If necessary, remove rear seat to disengage locks to cab lid
2) use the allen key to crank the bowden cables under the rear seat to disengage the locks
3) Lift the front of the top and support that with a piece of wood or something.

Here is a pic of my car when I laid the tutorial out some time ago.

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=790169

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Last edited by fmzip; 12-06-2012 at 08:59 AM.
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Old 12-12-2012, 07:11 AM   #23
wes2952
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I followed the rcommendation. Manually opened and disengaged front of top at the windshield. Manually opened the lid locks located under the rear seat using the allen wrench after depressing the disengage button. Still no joy. Top will not open any further than a small gap at the windshield. Pressure in the system? How do you relieve that?
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Old 12-16-2012, 10:06 PM   #24
Landlorder
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Thanks man... when i half opened the top to see where the harness goes, it seems like it goes right inside the metal frame of the top itself... and i cant find/see the ends of the harness or where to unclip them from after they "disappear" into the soft top frame... do i cut off old connectors and pull out harness (with string)?

need to have a go at this and document everything.

Quote:
Originally Posted by djsilver View Post
I have not replaced the harness yet, as the repaired one is still working. The header is a metal cover over the mechanism that latches the top to the windshield frame. I'm sure changing the harness won't be a cake-walk but the key is to tie strings to the old connectors when you pull them out so that you can use the same strings to pull the new ones into place.
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Old 12-16-2012, 10:09 PM   #25
Landlorder
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mate, when you use that allen wrench to disengage top from windshield, you need to keep turning the living piss out of that wrench... , until you cant turn it any more, (it will spring back when you have reached this point). Also make sure the lid lock is actually unlocked under the seat (you can feel it when the allen wrench is loose after about half or 3/4 turn with wrench. After this then try and lift the front and back of soft top simultaneously and open top cover to pull everything back and into the top cover.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wes2952 View Post
I followed the rcommendation. Manually opened and disengaged front of top at the windshield. Manually opened the lid locks located under the rear seat using the allen wrench after depressing the disengage button. Still no joy. Top will not open any further than a small gap at the windshield. Pressure in the system? How do you relieve that?
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Last edited by Landlorder; 12-16-2012 at 10:12 PM.
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Old 12-23-2012, 09:18 AM   #26
wes2952
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Thanks, Landlorder. I was manually opening up the top just enough to open up from the windshield. As you said to do, I cranked it open to full stop with the allen wrench. The top opened up fine after that. One wire was completely severed at the bend. Now repaired and the top opening and closing is working fine.
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Old 02-02-2013, 04:39 PM   #27
socalragtop
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First thanks for an awesome thread. I tested all the pairs and triples and found continuity on all. Any suggestions for what to check next? Thanks.
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Old 03-13-2013, 11:04 PM   #28
4BUCK
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I tested continuity among all the pins. 9/18, 8/17, 7/16 all make a beep. The rest show a number in the 400s, except for 13/14. I'm assuming that means there's no continuity between 13/14 (Cowl Unlocked Sensor).

I cut open the harness in the top, just above the drivers side window, expecting to see a broken wire or two where most people have resolved this issue. My Green/White (13) and Brown/Yellow (14) look fine - they aren't broken.

Do you think 13 and/or 14 are broken somewhere else? If so, where do you think another breakage point might be?

Do you think it's possible 13 and/or 14 are broken in that spot but the brake is inside the wire itself (not visible)?

Do you think this means the Cowl Unlocked Sensor (S145) is broken?

THANKS!
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Old 03-16-2013, 06:54 PM   #29
4BUCK
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I fixed it!

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=976213

Quote:
Originally Posted by 4BUCK View Post
I tested continuity among all the pins. 9/18, 8/17, 7/16 all make a beep. The rest show a number in the 400s, except for 13/14. I'm assuming that means there's no continuity between 13/14 (Cowl Unlocked Sensor).

I cut open the harness in the top, just above the drivers side window, expecting to see a broken wire or two where most people have resolved this issue. My Green/White (13) and Brown/Yellow (14) look fine - they aren't broken.

Do you think 13 and/or 14 are broken somewhere else? If so, where do you think another breakage point might be?

Do you think it's possible 13 and/or 14 are broken in that spot but the brake is inside the wire itself (not visible)?

Do you think this means the Cowl Unlocked Sensor (S145) is broken?

THANKS!
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Old 04-11-2013, 02:44 PM   #30
tmullins
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Props to vader007! Dude, you pointed me right to it. I just took a chance and sliced into that harness at the first bend and sure 'nuff, green striped wire broken completely in two. In my case I butt spliced it which eliminated the need for more wire since the butt splice barrel adds just enough length. Taped it all real solid with 3M electrical tape and voila!
Thanks man!
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Old 06-26-2013, 11:52 AM   #31
avneet
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Hi Guys,

Can anyone point me to which pin numbers are for the convertible lid? My top cycle stops after the front folds up, the back folds up, and then the back trunk lid is supposed to open to let the top fold into it. It unlocks just fine. It's just the lid itself that won't raise. I'm wondering which pins affect that.
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Old 06-26-2013, 12:26 PM   #32
taylor192
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Originally Posted by avneet View Post
Hi Guys,

Can anyone point me to which pin numbers are for the convertible lid? My top cycle stops after the front folds up, the back folds up, and then the back trunk lid is supposed to open to let the top fold into it. It unlocks just fine. It's just the lid itself that won't raise. I'm wondering which pins affect that.
AFAIK the trunk lid raising is controlled by the GM module, not the CVM module. If the lid won't raise I'd suspect the system doesn't know the lid unlocked and stops operation.

Does the top work in reverse? Ie if you lift the lid, manually fold the top into the storage area and rest the lid ontop can you:
1. Push the open button to get the lid to clamp down?
2. Push the close button to get the lid to raise and start closing?

Please start another thread rather than clutter this sticky since your problem appears unrelated... at this moment. There's been a couple members recently reporting issues with the top stopping in similar positions, search, hopefully they checked in with solutions.
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Old 07-23-2013, 12:26 PM   #33
jmcmahon
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2002 e46

I have a 2002 e46 convertible. the top was working fine when i parked and put it up. when i came back and tried to put it down, it wouldn t move. the windows didnt go down or anything. I went home and parked it in the garage. the next morning i went to start it and the battery was dead. any ideas where to start?
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Old 07-23-2013, 03:49 PM   #34
jmcmahon
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thanks
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Old 01-09-2014, 05:40 AM   #35
08shaban
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do you have the picture like this one for the sound system to on a 2000 model 323ci convertible.its not the hk system
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Old 01-09-2014, 08:44 AM   #36
M3squared
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Hyrdo Unit vs Cowl Switch Codes

I have a 04 M3 Convertible and the top unlocks and acts like it is going to raise but it stops. The dealer read the codes for COWL Switch shorted and noted it was a broken wire. I bring it in for the fix, but today he calls back and says the wires are fine that it's the Hydro unit -- a major difference. I'm just confused how it went from reading a Cowl Switch shortage code to the Hydro Unit? Are they under the same code family? If It were the Hydro unit to begin with, would it have sent it's own fault when we first checked it?

Last edited by M3squared; 01-09-2014 at 09:06 AM.
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Old 03-09-2014, 11:07 PM   #37
willrrr1
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Idk if this is a stupid question but how do I check the ccontinuity of the cvm
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Old 04-10-2014, 10:23 AM   #38
Charliewards
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My strange issue

I've been experiencing many of the same issues, the top only going down halfway or not moving at all, the flashing light with nothing happening etc.

Here's what's weird. I found that I can solve my convertible top issues by lowering or raising the windows. For example, when the top only goes down halfway, and I then lower the windows, the top's motor will kick into gear and the top will then go all the way down. Or, when the top doesn't move it all and the red light is flashing, if I drop or lower the windows the top will then move.

So, are the top and the windows on the same circuit? How do the two interact? Or could I have wiring that's out of whack?
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Old 04-10-2014, 11:05 AM   #39
taylor192
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charliewards View Post
I've been experiencing many of the same issues, the top only going down halfway or not moving at all, the flashing light with nothing happening etc.

Here's what's weird. I found that I can solve my convertible top issues by lowering or raising the windows. For example, when the top only goes down halfway, and I then lower the windows, the top's motor will kick into gear and the top will then go all the way down. Or, when the top doesn't move it all and the red light is flashing, if I drop or lower the windows the top will then move.

So, are the top and the windows on the same circuit? How do the two interact? Or could I have wiring that's out of whack?
The windows are controlled by the GM5 module and the top by the CVM module. They interact to control the sequencing. The GM5 module is known to have issues over time, I think the relays go bad... yet usually any of the electrical gremlins have been traced back to a bad battery. Have your battery load tested.
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Old 04-10-2014, 11:25 AM   #40
Charliewards
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Originally Posted by taylor192 View Post
The windows are controlled by the GM5 module and the top by the CVM module. They interact to control the sequencing. The GM5 module is known to have issues over time, I think the relays go bad... yet usually any of the electrical gremlins have been traced back to a bad battery. Have your battery load tested.
I got a brand new battery and I'm still experiencing the problem.
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