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The Showroom
This is the place to show off your BMW to other members of the community. Post pictures and videos of your car and the modifications you have done to it. If you need a picture of something on a coupe, sedan, convertible or touring you will probably find it here!

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Old 01-09-2014, 09:18 PM   #61
Flop
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Originally Posted by stuntin325 View Post
The lipped edge assuming its bigger goes on the outside

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Just to make sure we are on the same page, by inside/outside, I meant like facing the outside of the car or facing the inside of the car.

So what you are saying is that, for example, the left side RTAB, the lip should be on the left side of the trailing arm?
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Old 01-09-2014, 10:18 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flop View Post
I plan on fabricating something very similar to the mason engineering unit, except it will be welded in.

And I have heard horror stories about solid motor/tranny mounts! I have the UUC (I think) isolated tranny mounts that will be going in shortly, which seem to have great reviews. Still undecided about motor mounts, but nothing too aggressive.

Securing the OPN? Please explain!
Nice work on the rear reinforcement bar.

OPN = oil pump nut. It likes to vibrate loose, something to do with the harmonics @ high RPMs (especially with a shot harmonic balancer, something else that you should look into). Obviously if it takes a crap the chain sprocket can vibrate off the shaft = no oil pressure. There's no real fix for it without upgrading the oil pump, but people have used loctite, safety wire, tack weld, and/or punching the shaft threads to hold it on.

Loctite: you will never get the threads clean enough for a good bond and has documented failures.

Tack weld: heat fatigues the shaft, cause shaft to crack

VAC makes a kit for the oil pump but I think that has seen some failures as well...

While you're in there you can add in an oil baffle to prevent oil starvation
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Old 01-09-2014, 10:30 PM   #63
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dude jb weld is not adhesive. it's just this rigga digga stuff that fixes things in a pinch. If you want to bond metal to metal do it properly with 3m panel bond or equivalent

http://www.amazon.com/3M-08116-Bondi...nding+Adhesive
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Old 01-09-2014, 10:48 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by travisn View Post
dude jb weld is not adhesive. it's just this rigga digga stuff that fixes things in a pinch. If you want to bond metal to metal do it properly with 3m panel bond or equivalent

http://www.amazon.com/3M-08116-Bondi...nding+Adhesive
I think you are misinformed. JB Weld forms a chemical bond with the metal. Plus, it has a higher heat tolerance than standard metal adhesives. Not saying the 3M product is bad, I'm sure it would work great, there are reviews of JB Weld holding up against much more extreme conditions than a subframe plate that sees no shear forces. It's basically an expensive washer.
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Old 01-09-2014, 11:03 PM   #65
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fvck that. i'd never use jb weld for anything.

Last edited by travisn; 01-09-2014 at 11:04 PM. Reason: i like to swear
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Old 01-09-2014, 11:26 PM   #66
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fvck that. i'd never use jb weld for anything.
Agree to disagree.
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Old 01-12-2014, 09:26 PM   #67
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Had a good time at the Centralia meet today.

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Old 01-19-2014, 12:43 PM   #68
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So I'm sure there are some folks curious about what the NVH increase is with the new subframe and differential bushings. I will try to be as descriptive as possible!

Noise: Noise is really the only noticeable increase in terms of NVH. The subframe/diff bushings combo definitely transmits a fair amount of additional noise into the cabin. The differential bushings are the most to blame here, though, as it is primarily increased gear noise. There are 3 "distinct" noises you hear with poly differential bushings:

1. Gear Whine: Audible under hard acceleration, and any sort of deceleration. It is hard to notice under coasting and mild acceleration. Also, the whine doesn't really kick in until above 40mph.

2. Driveshaft Noise: This noise makes shifts appear "clunkier". The noise stems from the slight bit of play built into the transmission and differential gears. When you shift, they knock against each other, because the gears go from "under load" to "free spinning" and back again in a short period of time. This "knock" is no longer absorbed by the differential bushings.

3. Bearing Noise: This one is a little harder to describe, but imagine radio static coming from directly under your rear seats. The noise starts at about 10mph and increases in frequency at higher speeds... It doesn't necessarily get louder, just a different pitch (but nothing like a whine noise). It's like a constant "shhhhhhhh" coming from under the rear seats, regardless of acceleration, coasting, or deceleration.

Vibration: None noticed.

Harshness: Very slight increase. It's not that bumps are any "harsher" than before. However, they appear slightly more "crisp," if you catch my drift. You feel like you are slightly more connected to the road. Imagine going from 32PSI to 40PSI of tire pressure... that is about what the increase in harshness feels like... Bumps aren't any harder than before, but you feel the road more. I love this.

I am almost positive that most of the increased noise is due to the differential bushings, and not the subframe bushings, as it all stems from the differential. I know that OEM subframe bushings would help to absorb this. However, it would be better to absorb the vibration at the source (differential), instead of transmitting it through the subframe itself.

I am considering swapping out the front differential bushings to OEM, and leaving the 90a poly bushing in the rear location. The rear poly bushing has enough "meat" on it to actually absorb noise. However, the front bushings don't have a whole lot of polyurethane to absorb NVH.
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Old 01-19-2014, 06:05 PM   #69
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Hope your RTAB's went in easy! Here is a not so good picture on the way to the meet!

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Old 01-20-2014, 12:13 AM   #70
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Hope your RTAB's went in easy! Here is a not so good picture on the way to the meet!
Thanks man! Weather was pretty nasty getting up there.

I ended up working around the house doing yard work most of the weekend, so no RTABs yet. Hopefully next weekend though.
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Old 01-20-2014, 01:03 AM   #71
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NVH.
I was actually thinking about this earlier this weekend. Lol. My rear diff bushing is starting to separate. You have solid subframe bushings and poly diff bushings, correct?

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Old 01-20-2014, 02:17 AM   #72
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Nice work so far


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Old 01-20-2014, 09:50 AM   #73
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I was actually thinking about this earlier this weekend. Lol. My rear diff bushing is starting to separate. You have solid subframe bushings and poly diff bushings, correct?

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Correct. I'm a big proponent of the solid subframe bushings, but am hesitant to recommend poly diff bushings, unless you are like me and don't mind the added noise.
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Old 01-21-2014, 10:24 AM   #74
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There should be some noise isolation provided by retaining the factory subframe bushings while using poly diff bushings though, correct?

I'm trying to figure out a way to reduce drive train shock and bushing fatigue (ultimately premature bushing failure) when clutch kicking it. It sounds like my diff is going bye-bye when I do it. I really need to stop trying to drift with an open diff....


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Last edited by TopasE46; 01-21-2014 at 10:27 AM.
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Old 01-21-2014, 11:37 AM   #75
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Originally Posted by TopasE46 View Post
There should be some noise isolation provided by retaining the factory subframe bushings while using poly diff bushings though, correct?

I'm trying to figure out a way to reduce drive train shock and bushing fatigue (ultimately premature bushing failure) when clutch kicking it. It sounds like my diff is going bye-bye when I do it. I really need to stop trying to drift with an open diff....


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You really should be trying to do the opposite when it comes to upgrading bushings. You want to have solid and/or poly subframe bushings and stock or poly diff bushings. The main source of noise is the diff. You really want your subframe to be mounted as solid as possible, especially when clutch kicking. For example, I can't imagine the noise level increasing much over stock if all you did was switch out to solid subframe bushings while keeping the diff bushings stock. The reason you want to have stronger subframe than diff bushings is because of the deflection soft subframe bushings see under acceleration/braking. If you upgrade diff bushings while leaving stock subframe bushings in. You are increasing the torque load on the subframe mounts and increasing the likely hood for subframe damage.
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Old 01-21-2014, 12:00 PM   #76
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You really should be trying to do the opposite when it comes to upgrading bushings. You want to have solid and/or poly subframe bushings and stock or poly diff bushings. The main source of noise is the diff. You really want your subframe to be mounted as solid as possible, especially when clutch kicking. For example, I can't imagine the noise level increasing much over stock if all you did was switch out to solid subframe bushings while keeping the diff bushings stock. The reason you want to have stronger subframe than diff bushings is because of the deflection soft subframe bushings see under acceleration/braking. If you upgrade diff bushings while leaving stock subframe bushings in. You are increasing the torque load on the subframe mounts and increasing the likely hood for subframe damage.
Couldn't have said it any better myself.

It's best to take care of drivetrain shock/noise at the source, which is the differential. Then the solid subframe bushings will better disburse the drivetrain load into the chassis, without the added noise.
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Old 01-21-2014, 12:08 PM   #77
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in. can't wait to see the progress!
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Old 01-22-2014, 08:12 PM   #78
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Installed matte Khoalty grills and LED license plate light bulbs last night.





Matte black vinyl wrap for the window trim is en route!
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Old 01-23-2014, 10:30 PM   #79
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So many UNinstalled parts! Starting to drive me crazy.

Parts I have that still need to be installed:
- Seats
- Spherical RTABs
- VANOS seals
- all idler pulleys

Here are the seats that will be going in shortly (Bride Vios III). They actually fit my skinny ass.



And the Wedge seat brackets are BEEFY. Just need to get side mounts now.

Last edited by Flop; 01-23-2014 at 10:30 PM.
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Old 01-23-2014, 10:53 PM   #80
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Great thread. Keep up the good work. Have any videos of you sliding it around?


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