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E46 Convertible
The E46 vert forum. Talk about dropping your E46 top here.

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Old 07-20-2013, 10:42 AM   #41
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Thumbs Up Hydraulic fluid for the convertible top

A few comments about proper hydraulic fluid for the convertible top system:

Totally acceptable fluids outside of the overpriced BMW fluid are:

FeBi 02615 (same as BMW fluid, but much cheaper, for example at http://www.rmeuropean.com/Part-Numbe..._D18BD03A.aspx)
Mercedes fluid A0009899103 (same as FeBi and BMW fluid, also sometimes referenced as p/n 000989910310)
Pentosin CHF-11S (available in some parts stores)
Aral Vitamol ZH-M (in Europe)

The BMW part number for the same fluid as above is 54340394395, and it is also sold as Hoerbiger fluid HB92952-215.

All the above fluids are ZH-M type synthetic oils. The main characteristics are very low viscosity over a wide temperature range, no additives that would harm the seals, and no emulsifiers that would suspend water in the fluid.

Do NOT use bottle jack oil or brake fluid!

Klaus

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Some BMW E46 hydraulic cylinders, pumps, and valves that we rebuild and upgrade at Top Hydraulics:
54347025593
54347025600
54347025599
54348236956
54348243269
5434-8234530 (hydro-unit)
54347025592 (control unit)
54347025598 (improved hoses manufactured at Top Hydraulics)
http://www.tophydraulicsinc.com/en/56-bmw-e46
www.tophydraulicsinc.com

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Old 07-25-2013, 10:47 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TopHydraulicsInc.com View Post
Totally acceptable fluids outside of the overpriced BMW fluid are:

Pentosin CHF-11S (available in some parts stores)

Really?

Well that's handy- I have two bottles of that! That's the same stuff we use for the SMG system. And I was just about to order more of the MB stuff too! (Since I'm still generally OK with occasional fluid top offs rather than dealing with the full top removal... for now.)
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Old 08-30-2013, 11:33 AM   #43
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line substitute numbers

hi... i need line # 34 replaced on a 330ci 2006 set up,,,, i have access to a new line #24 at a very very low price... can i use the #24 to make the repair..and route the line out of harms way...instead of purchasing an extened #34.

Last edited by 237_330ci; 08-30-2013 at 11:36 AM. Reason: added more info
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Old 08-30-2013, 01:24 PM   #44
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hi... i need line # 34 replaced on a 330ci 2006 set up,,,, i have access to a new line #24 at a very very low price... can i use the #24 to make the repair..and route the line out of harms way...instead of purchasing an extened #34.
You should be able to coil up the excess length of line 24 somewhere (making sure not to kink the line and to tie up the coil in a safe place). However, you will also have to deal with the fittings on line 24 being curved as opposed to the fittings on line 34 being straight. I don't own an E46, and don't know if there is a safe way to deal with the lines coming out at an angle if you use #24.

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Some BMW E46 hydraulic cylinders, pumps, and valves that we rebuild and upgrade at Top Hydraulics:
54347025593
54347025600
54347025599
54348236956
54348243269
5434-8234530 (hydro-unit)
54347025592 (control unit)
54347025598 (improved hoses manufactured at Top Hydraulics)
http://www.tophydraulicsinc.com/en/56-bmw-e46
www.tophydraulicsinc.com

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Old 08-30-2013, 04:23 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 237_330ci View Post
hi... i need line # 34 replaced on a 330ci 2006 set up,,,, i have access to a new line #24 at a very very low price... can i use the #24 to make the repair..and route the line out of harms way...instead of purchasing an extened #34.
YMMV.

You can see the straight fittings of lines #31/34 vs the angled fittings of lines #23/24:


There is not enough room to install angled fittings in #31/34 facing the opposite direction of #23/34, so they'd have to be installed facing the same direction. If you did that then you can see little room there'd be to route them:


You'd have to route them similar to #21/22, do a loop then come back and through:
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Old 11-04-2013, 06:28 PM   #46
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Taylor

This sensor, is this one suppose to flop freely, or does it have gearing in it?

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-325...2.5l/ES158633/
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Old 11-23-2013, 12:59 AM   #47
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Re: DIY: Convertible hydraulic cylinders and lines

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Taylor

This sensor, is this one suppose to flop freely, or does it have gearing in it?

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-325...2.5l/ES158633/
Sorry I missed this. No clue. I would assume it's magnetic like the others... yet that's just a guess.

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Old 01-27-2014, 03:58 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TopHydraulicsInc.com View Post
Totally acceptable fluids outside of the overpriced BMW fluid are:

Pentosin CHF-11S (available in some parts stores)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave View Post
Well that's handy- I have two bottles of that! That's the same stuff we use for the SMG system.

Can someone confirm this?

I ask because the Pentosin seems to be substantially thicker/gooier than the stuff I've been using in the top. Doesn't seem like it'd mix well or work... almost like it'd clog.
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Old 03-24-2014, 03:50 PM   #49
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So line #23 on my vert is leaking too.
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Old 03-25-2014, 06:16 PM   #50
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So line #23 on my vert is leaking too.
At least you have a reasonably easy and cheap solution! ;-)

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Old 04-03-2014, 11:22 PM   #51
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I replaced line #23. Now when I press the button to put the top down, it drops the windows but that it. nothing else. Light is solid red when I press the top down button. Any ideas guys?
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Old 04-04-2014, 11:50 AM   #52
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I replaced line #23. Now when I press the button to put the top down, it drops the windows but that it. nothing else. Light is solid red when I press the top down button. Any ideas guys?
Post a new thread and we'll figure it out.

Does the red light blink when you release the button? The red light will be solid when you push the button (unless you have the storage area collapsed, then the light is yellow).

The next step after the windows lower is unlatch from the windshield. Can you manually unlatch from the windshield? If so, then leave the top in this state and try pushing the button again. At this point the hydraulics should pressurize and activate the bow tension cylinders to raise the rear window.

Alternatively manually store the top in the storage compartment, and rest the lid ontop. Then press the close button and see what happens. At this point the hydraulics should pressurize and activate the storage lid cylinders to raise the storage lid.
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Old 04-05-2014, 07:06 PM   #53
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Guess I'm not gonna need a new thread. I fixed the problem. It turned out one of the wires at the first bend was cut off (maybe while I manually close and open the top many times). I reconnected them and my top is working again now.
See pix



Thank you very much Taylor for your help, pointing me to the right direction. I couldn't have fix it without you sir. Save me a lot of money from the dealer.
I got the line #23 from Top Hydraulic Ins. They ship really quick. It's really early to comment on the quality but the line looks really good.
Also, thanks to this forum.
Vu
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Old 04-05-2014, 08:50 PM   #54
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Awesome! Glad it worked out for you.

Were you able to change line 23 without removing the top from the car? If so, please chime in, it'll help motivate others who may consider the repair too daunting.

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Old 04-06-2014, 02:04 AM   #55
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Yes, I changed line 23 without removing the top. It was easier than I expected and really straight forward. The tricky part was to get the right angle to remove the line from the valve block and reconnect the new line back on. Tight space to work with
Running line 23 through was easy. Just follow line 24. They run side by side. Definitely need a helper though. Took me and my gf 1.5 hrs to do it.
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Old 04-17-2014, 12:16 PM   #56
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Thumbs Up 1.5 hours DIY saved you >> $1k

Quote:
Originally Posted by 03jetblackm3 View Post
Yes, I changed line 23 without removing the top. It was easier than I expected and really straight forward. The tricky part was to get the right angle to remove the line from the valve block and reconnect the new line back on. Tight space to work with
Running line 23 through was easy. Just follow line 24. They run side by side. Definitely need a helper though. Took me and my gf 1.5 hrs to do it.
03jetblackm3,

glad to hear that you have a working top again. Congratulations, you saved a lot of money there in 1.5 hours! Thanks for the detailed report.

Klaus
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Old 04-23-2014, 11:54 AM   #57
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I wanted to make sure my DIY guide for the bow cylinder repair was hosted on these forums too, especially if the thread is saved.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf BMW E46 Convertible Bow Cylinder replacement guide.pdf (2.30 MB, 56 views)
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Old 04-23-2014, 12:16 PM   #58
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Thumbs Up

Stefan,

thanks again for creating such an awesome DIY! In post 4, taylor192 has referred to your DIY being posted in Top Hydraulics' website's DIY section http://www.tophydraulicsinc.com/en/c...y-instructions, but it is good to have the pdf hosted on this site, as well.

You guys rock!



Klaus
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Some BMW E46 hydraulic cylinders, pumps, and valves that we rebuild and upgrade at Top Hydraulics:
54347025593
54347025600
54347025599
54348236956
54348243269
5434-8234530 (hydro-unit)
54347025592 (control unit)
54347025598 (improved hoses manufactured at Top Hydraulics)
http://www.tophydraulicsinc.com/en/56-bmw-e46
www.tophydraulicsinc.com

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Old 04-23-2014, 12:50 PM   #59
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Missed that.. thanks Klaus! You were fantastic to work with and I still appreciate all of your help. The repairs you did are better than original OEM and I am one happy guy with the top down, now that the weather is starting to improve again! 8)
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Old 04-25-2014, 04:11 PM   #60
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I've posted this in a new one earlier but can any one point me in the right direction ?


Thanks.


Got a problem with my 325ci



When I go to put the roof down the soft top attempts to go down fast then it gets slower and then stops, the back struggles to lift then eventually just stops half way open and then everything just stops all together, the red light blinking...



I also found some oil in my boot well





Any ideas of what's going on?



Thanks !


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