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Suspension & Braking Forum by BimmerWorld
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Old 01-28-2014, 10:45 PM   #141
ti317
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Originally Posted by Mango View Post
what are lemforder limiters? can you link these to me?
ECS carries them. They are plastic limiters made by Lemforder IIRC. I will have to check the invoice.
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Old 01-30-2014, 03:39 PM   #142
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Mango,

http://www.oembimmerparts.com/BMW_M3...7kiteoemm3.htm

These here at OEMBIMMER.
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Old 01-30-2014, 05:19 PM   #143
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Nope. Just as I thought, the RTABs are Lemforder. The limiters are aftermarket and tossed in as a kit. That's why it's called a kit. Lemforder would have no bushing making limiters as they don't come as factory equipment. Nothing wrong with them, just know they aren't Lemforder.
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Old 01-30-2014, 05:20 PM   #144
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^*meant business, not bushing.
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Old 02-02-2014, 12:47 PM   #145
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On the split bushings, does the orientation of the split matter? Should they be vertical, horizontal, etc?
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Old 02-03-2014, 10:24 AM   #146
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It's been a while since I've done it but I think it goes down/up. search around
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Old 02-03-2014, 11:05 AM   #147
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Old 02-03-2014, 11:39 AM   #148
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The way I have seen it done.....(l).......so split vertical. Don't know if it really matters though. I have one more source to check but it is at home.
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Old 02-03-2014, 12:16 PM   #149
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I couldn't find any info while searching, but the old ones were vertical so I put the new ones in vertical as well. I followed Mango's advice on how to set pre-load on the RTABs, and set preload on the inner LCA bushings by jacking up the hub to roughly static height and then tightening the bolt going through the bushing fully. Hopefully that's an OK method??
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Old 02-10-2014, 10:17 AM   #150
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Best tool set best price to do all the rear bushings.

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Old 05-10-2014, 05:50 PM   #151
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Just did this today.

Nobody should try to do this without the proper tool, I can't imagine trying it. I used the KTC rear axle service kit and it worked GREAT. Bushings all came out and went in like butter.

I went with powerflex RTABs and upgraded the lower outer control arm bushings to the M3 style



Room for limiters in there, I noticed... not sure if that would be a good idea or not (to pair limiters with poly RTABs), so I emailed powerflex.



I didn't have to remove the rotor, but I did remove the caliper to take pressure off the brake line (was getting pulled on with the suspension fully drooped)

The upper outer rear control arm bushings (the ball joint style) seemed perfectly fine. I probably didn't need to replace them, but had the parts so went ahead and replaced them anyway. I have 94k miles on my car. I suspect those ball joint style bushings will probably last a lifetime.
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Old 05-27-2014, 08:17 AM   #152
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Ohhh man, this is the abundance of information on rtab's I was looking for. Thank you a million times over Mango.

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Old 05-27-2014, 06:01 PM   #153
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Update: powerflex says not to use limiters with their RTABs. They say the poly restricts the movement the same as the limiters do, so no need for them.
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Old 06-23-2015, 04:04 PM   #154
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When upgrading the lower rubber mounting on a 330 for a ball joint from an M3, do you also need to change the eccentric camber bolt and washer? The M3 bolt is 98 mm long vs 82 mm for the 330.
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Old 06-24-2015, 12:57 PM   #155
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I didn't need to change that. Didn't even have to remove it.
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Old 08-25-2015, 02:27 PM   #156
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Thanks Mango (and other commenters)! I just ordered the RTABs, limiters and M3 joints (all Lemforder except the limiters), plus sway bar bushings & links f&r from FCP, and the MIS tool from MIS. Hoping I don't find bad diff or subframe bushings, as I'm really not in the mood to do those in the driveway...

I did the FCAs, bushings, etc, a few months ago, along with springs, shocks, struts, mounts, etc. And I have an AC evap waiting for the last recharge to leak out again...

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Old 09-14-2015, 12:46 AM   #157
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Just did the ball joints and RTABs this past week. RTABs were a breeze with the MIS tool (rented). upper and lower ball joints were harder, and I made a tool. I was not going to buy a ball joint set for $400 for this job. The core of the tool was a 7/16" threaded rod and couplers from HD, Simpson square washers, and hardened round washers. I used three different electrical conduit couplers for the press and receivers, and the whole thing worked great. Only issue - I stripped my first rod by using standard nuts instead of couplers.

Put four ball joints in, and the old ball joints were definitely worn. Rubber was in great shape, but the actual ball joint was floppy like a sleeping cat.

Not an "easy" job - it takes strength with the tools I was using. But not a difficult one to figure out.
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Old 12-16-2015, 09:50 AM   #158
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Originally Posted by CharlieFoxtrot View Post
Thanks Mango (and other commenters)! I just ordered the RTABs, limiters and M3 joints (all Lemforder except the limiters), plus sway bar bushings & links f&r from FCP, and the MIS tool from MIS. Hoping I don't find bad diff or subframe bushings, as I'm really not in the mood to do those in the driveway...

I did the FCAs, bushings, etc, a few months ago, along with springs, shocks, struts, mounts, etc. And I have an AC evap waiting for the last recharge to leak out again...
Sure no problem!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Archbid View Post
Just did the ball joints and RTABs this past week. RTABs were a breeze with the MIS tool (rented). upper and lower ball joints were harder, and I made a tool. I was not going to buy a ball joint set for $400 for this job. The core of the tool was a 7/16" threaded rod and couplers from HD, Simpson square washers, and hardened round washers. I used three different electrical conduit couplers for the press and receivers, and the whole thing worked great. Only issue - I stripped my first rod by using standard nuts instead of couplers.

Put four ball joints in, and the old ball joints were definitely worn. Rubber was in great shape, but the actual ball joint was floppy like a sleeping cat.

Not an "easy" job - it takes strength with the tools I was using. But not a difficult one to figure out.
Nice work on the tool. All the times I tried making special tools for the BMW rear end, they failed. Snapped crackled or popped. The rod seems to be the weak point. Hard to find a good rod.

Quote:
Originally Posted by clabcon View Post
When upgrading the lower rubber mounting on a 330 for a ball joint from an M3, do you also need to change the eccentric camber bolt and washer? The M3 bolt is 98 mm long vs 82 mm for the 330.
I did not need to touch it. Perhaps the control arm is a different thickness/width? There was plenty (same amount) of rod sticking out from what I remember. But if you have the parts, why not.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad W View Post
I didn't need to change that. Didn't even have to remove it.
Agreed here

Quote:
Originally Posted by typeflex View Post
Ohhh man, this is the abundance of information on rtab's I was looking for. Thank you a million times over Mango.
Any time
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Old 12-16-2015, 10:15 AM   #159
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clabcon
When upgrading the lower rubber mounting on a 330 for a ball joint from an M3, do you also need to change the eccentric camber bolt and washer? The M3 bolt is 98 mm long vs 82 mm for the 330.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mango View Post

I did not need to touch it. Perhaps the control arm is a different thickness/width? There was plenty (same amount) of rod sticking out from what I remember. But if you have the parts, why not.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad W
I didn't need to change that. Didn't even have to remove it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mango View Post
Agreed here

The Q&A above seems quite straightforward, so I don't know how I could be missing something, yet... The eccentric bolt is what holds the camber rod to the lower bushing. How could you change the bushing/balljoint yet not have to remove the bolt?

I didn't know there was a difference in the M3 bolt length, but since the bushings/balljoints are interchangable, and since the non-M camber rod still fits the upgraded joint, I have to believe the longer M3 bolt is not required. I don't even see a reason for the M3 to have a longer bolt, especially since RealOEM says the control arm is the same for both models, 33326770813.
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Old 04-08-2016, 05:16 PM   #160
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Nice write up. Thanks Mango! I am ordering the bushings/ball joints now and plan to start this project soon.

I found some complex tool sets online, most of them are made in Taiwan. It seems those set have a different design from MIS tool. The tool manufacturers claim for multiple bushings/balljoints in rear trailing arm. I am wondering anyone have experience on that. Plus, they are more expensive than MIS, usually 2-3 times. Are they worth to buy?
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