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Bavarian Soundwerks' Mobile Electronics Forum
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Old 07-08-2012, 11:48 PM   #141
Thotfulspot
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Thanks for the great info.
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Old 08-20-2012, 03:32 PM   #142
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How would I go about hooking my 4 channel amp which could be bridged to 2 channels, to two subs. I just don't know what wires to tap into for the subs.Thanks
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Old 08-29-2012, 01:12 AM   #143
scarede46er
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Is there a DIY for the same thing as this but with an aftermarket head unit in addition? I cannot see a place behind the deck from where I can drop the RCA wires down.
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Old 08-13-2013, 04:06 AM   #144
Mflara20
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I want to do this but I have an alpine headunit so I don't need to intall the RCA inputs. To clarify I have an HK sound system on mine with an alpine headunit, I want to get rid of the stock amplifier and replace it with an alpine one so it can power up the inside speaker and a subwoofer. Can I do this? And how do I do it? I read your DIY about how you install your amplifier but I get confuse.
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Old 08-13-2013, 08:45 AM   #145
Grande D
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The RCAs can be run down behind your climate control and through the center console, then under the seat and up the side sills of the car.

With an aftermarket head unit, you will take the HK amplifier inputs (from the harness) and plug them into high level input of your amplifier. Alternatively, you can run RCAs from your head unit to your aftermarket amplifier for a line level signal.
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Old 08-13-2013, 09:04 PM   #146
Mflara20
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DIY - Aftermarket Amp, Speakers, + Subs w/ Stock Head Unit (Make Sticky?)

By any chance do you know a DIY of how to do this?? I'm sorry electrical stuffs are not my strongest abilities.


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Old 08-14-2013, 12:03 AM   #147
M_South_Afrikanna
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sunnyjay View Post
Here is the wiring pinouts for the HK Audio System

output to amp:

Radio Constant 12V+ Wire: Red/White
Radio Switched 12V+ Wire: Purple/White
Radio Ground Wire: Brown
Radio Illumination Wire: None
Radio Dimmer Wire: None
Radio Antenna Trigger Wire: White
Radio Amp Trigger Wire: None
Front Speakers Size: 5 1/4"
Front Speakers Location: Kick Panels
Left Front Speaker Wire (+): Yellow/Red
Left Front Speaker Wire (-): Brown/Orange
Right Front Speaker Wire (+): Blue/Red
Right Front Speaker Wire (-): Brown/Orange
Rear Speakers Size: 4"
Rear Speakers Location: Rear Deck
Left Rear Speaker Wire (+): Yellow/Black
Left Rear Speaker Wire (-): Black/Orange
Right Rear Speaker Wire (+): Blue/Black
Right Rear Speaker Wire (-): Brown/Orange

output from amp to speakers:

Woofer connection
pin # Wire color Description
23 blue/red (+) front right
22 blue/brown (-) front right
25 blue (+) rear right
24 brown (-) rear right
2 yellow (+) rear left
1 brown (-) rear left
4 blue/white (+) front left
3 blue/brown (-) front left
Tweeter Connection
pin # Wire color Description
33 yellow/red (+) front left
34 yellow/brown (-) front left (mine is yellow)
31 yellow/black (+) rear left
32 yellow/brown (-) rear left
13 yellow (?) rear right
21 blue/yellow (?) rear right
11 blue/black (+) front right
12 blue/brown (-) front right
Midrange Connection
pin # Wire Color Description
41 blue/green (?) front right
42 green (?) front right
39 blue/white (?) front left (pos?)
40 white (?) front left (white/brown -)
happen to have the non hk amp wiring too?
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Old 08-19-2013, 05:58 AM   #148
Mflara20
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DIY - Aftermarket Amp, Speakers, + Subs w/ Stock Head Unit (Make Sticky?)

Anyone?


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Old 09-13-2013, 10:51 PM   #149
ixobelle
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I followed the OP's post for the wire color guide, and it was very helpful, although the format was a bit weird, and I ended up with Left and Right swapped in both front and back, so here's my own revised wiring.

THESE ARE FOR THE WIRES THAT LEAD TO THE SPEAKERS ONLY.

I was doing an aftermarket sub, amp, and some speakers that I threw in using the existing wire already in the doors. I replaced the largest speaker in each front door, and the ones behind the back seats, the tweeters and mids I left in place. The 6x9 "subs" I yanked and threw in the garbage.

The corresponding pin on the clips are in parenthesis:

Front Right Door:
Tweet - yellow/brown (34)
Tweet + yellow/red (33)

Mid - blue/white (39)
Mid + white (40)

Large - blue/brown (3)
Large + blue/white (4)


Front Left Door:
Tweet - blue/brown (12)
Tweet + blue/black (11)

Mid - blue/green (41)
Mid + green (42)

Large - blue/brown (22)
Large + blue/red (23)

Rear Left Door:
- blue/yellow (21)
+ yellow (13)

Rear Left Deck (behind seat):
- brown (24)
+ Blue (25)

Rear Right Door:
- yellow/brown (32)
+ yellow/black (31)

Rear Right Deck (behind seat):
- brown (1)
+ yellow (2)


The only other wire I concerned myself with was pin #12, a solitary white wire that was the "on/off signal" for my aftermarket amp. The rest of the wires on the clips all pertain to the 6x9 subs mounted in the trunk, which I cut and ignored (my new sub goes directly to my new amp, so whatever).

pics:



(Full album of six or so images here):
http://imgur.com/a/WLcyV


Go ahead and laugh at the "Power Akoustik" 5 channel amp, I don't care. The whole setup cost me about $250, and sounds a bazillion times better than it did beforehand. This is also the first aftermarket sound system I've ever installed (besides basic head unit swaps), and so help me god, I'm never going to do it again. What a pain in the ass running cables under the carpet, ugh.
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http://i.imgur.com/eQcudaz.jpg

Last edited by ixobelle; 09-13-2013 at 10:54 PM.
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Old 02-22-2014, 06:48 PM   #150
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saved for later
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Old 03-03-2014, 02:21 PM   #151
BananaHammock
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I've looked around and it seems they don't make the VEN4 Line Out Converter anymore. Is there any particular term I should include in order to get results relating to converters for the BMW system? Just putting in "line output converter" comes back with devices intended to take speaker input and turn it into amp input. If I understand correctly, that's not what we want. We want to tap into the signal before the BMW/HK amp and send that to the aftermarket amp.

Unless the 'main' amp sends a normal signal to the weenie little subwoofer amp. If that's the case, no LOC needed for a sub amp. Just swap the wires from the stock sub amp to the new amp and figure out where to mount it.

Last edited by BananaHammock; 03-03-2014 at 02:41 PM.
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Old 03-29-2014, 07:55 PM   #152
AxwelF
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BananaHammock View Post
I've looked around and it seems they don't make the VEN4 Line Out Converter anymore. Is there any particular term I should include in order to get results relating to converters for the BMW system? Just putting in "line output converter" comes back with devices intended to take speaker input and turn it into amp input. If I understand correctly, that's not what we want. We want to tap into the signal before the BMW/HK amp and send that to the aftermarket amp.

Unless the 'main' amp sends a normal signal to the weenie little subwoofer amp. If that's the case, no LOC needed for a sub amp. Just swap the wires from the stock sub amp to the new amp and figure out where to mount it.
Got the same question over here. Still trying to figure out how to hook my stuff up properly.

Won't this work? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RCA-Car-4-...item4154f29840

EDIT: Found that the company that produced VEN4 is now called PAC Audio.
http://pac-audio.com/Products.aspx?CategoryId=28

These are their line out converters, I guess they should be as good as VEN4?
What about this one? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-PAC-LP...item2a34da3606
Super cheap and awesome?

Last edited by AxwelF; 03-29-2014 at 08:06 PM.
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Old 04-21-2014, 03:49 PM   #153
gordo172
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If an amp has a "speaker level input" do we need a LOC? Or is that for something else?

-Sam
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Old 04-29-2014, 12:13 PM   #154
AxwelF
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gordo172 View Post
If an amp has a "speaker level input" do we need a LOC? Or is that for something else?

-Sam
From what I can understand it depends on the amp - if it can manage BALANCED speaker level/high level, then you just plug you cables in. If the amp cant manage balanced high level, then you need a LOC and then plug the LOC into the amps low level inputs.

The later alternative is how I got my stuff working. However, get very low sound pressure (and bad quality) from the speakers driven on my aftermarket amp, even though it should be able to power them nicely. I think it´s because of my cheap LOC from ebay, so put that in mind when planning and installing.
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Old 07-11-2014, 04:06 AM   #155
GimliTheDwarf
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seth_Horwitz View Post
Here are the references that I used:

- http://e46fanatics.com/faq/stereosaga.html

Excellent and most helpful site – “correct” wiring diagrams and signal theory for BMW OEM amp. Notice that some of the no-connects are actually used in out H&K system, although there were not used during my upgrade.



- http://bimmer.roadfly.org/5series/me...w06/11357.html

Outstanding knowledge of BMW factory systems and a/d/s upgrades.



- http://www.adst.com/pages/manuals.html

Great guides for a/d/s upgrades for BMW’s.



- http://forums.roadfly.org/bmw/forums...=770237&page=1

Good information from Dom, who is collecting stuff to be added to the FAQ.



- http://www.mindspring.com/~pmbenn/stereo.htm

- http://www.projectbimmer.com/

Examples of installs on BMW’s.



- http://www.eskimo.com/~dalus/bmw/e46...tallation.html

Excellent post on how to install the Factory CD Changer Kit.



- http://www.bmw330ci.com/DIY_Door_Panel_Removal.htm

Great link on how to remove the front door panels.







I know this was a very long post, but I hope that it will help others with their own upgrade plans.



William

12/01/02











Re-Print of David Badgy’s wiring diagram for E46 cars taken from here (not added the H&K signals as I did not used them):

http://e46fanatics.com/faq/stereosaga.html





Factory harness Wiring information:

Now that you have the connectors made, you need to figure out how to wire things up…

Some of the wiring harness info available on bimmer.org in the archives and the info faxed to me by ADS for the E46 is WRONG.



In the course of making the connector I started with info from the bimmer.org archives and a faxed page of info from ADS re E46 wiring – both had (different) errors in them – be advised that it pays to check all wiring for yourself in a project like this. Both sources had incorrect pin numbers and colors that did not match the wires physically in the harness. I have provided (to the best of my knowledge) corrected information below.



The notation I used below is:

Pin # xx / Signal

(main wire color) / (wire stripe color)

no connection literally means that there is not a wire in the factory harness at that pin.

Signal name followed by an * are signals that I believe to be correct, the color code is verified with the harness etc, but I did not personally use these signals in the upgrade so I can not claim to have proven the connections out personally. In particular I did not verify the +/- polarity of the factory mid range speakers. The non-* signals lines I am using to run the upgraded system so I am sure they are correct (at least for my car).



The harness connector pin numbers are embossed on the plastic. There are two “halves” to the connector, looking at the female harness connector its pin lay out looks like this:



Grey ˝ of connector

Pin # 13 / Tweeter Rear Right door + * Yellow Pin # 21 / Tweeter Rear Right door - *Blue / yellow

Pin # 12 / Tweeter Front Right - Blue / Brown Pin #20 / no connection

Pin # 11 / Tweeter Front Right + Blue / black Pin #19 / no connection

Pin # 10 / Switched +12v remote turn on White Pin #18 / no connection

Pin # 9 / Head unit output Front Right + Blue / red Pin #17 / Head unit output Front Right - Brown / orange

Pin # 8 / Head unit output Rear Right + Blue / black Pin #16 / Head unit output Rear Right - Brown / orange

Pin # 7 / no connection Pin #15 / no connection

Pin # 6 / no connection Pin #14 / no connection

Pin # 5 / +12v factory amp +12v supply *Red / green

Pin # 4 / Woofer Front Left +Blue / white

Pin # 3 / Woofer Front Left -Blue / brown

Pin # 2 / Woofer Rear Left +Yellow

Pin # 1 / Woofer Rear Left -Brown



Black ˝ of connector

Pin # 34 / Tweeter Front Left - Yellow / brown Pin # 42 / Mid Front Right door + *Green

Pin # 33 / Tweeter Front Left + Yellow / red Pin #41 / Mid Front Right door - *Blue / green

Pin # 32 / Tweeter Rear left door - * Yellow / brown Pin #40 / Mid Front left door + *White

Pin # 31 / Tweeter Rear Left door + * Yellow / black Pin #39 / Mid Front left door - *Blue / white

Pin # 30 / Head output Front left - Brown / orange Pin #38 / Head output Front Left + Yellow / red

Pin # 29 / Head output Rear Left - Brown / orange Pin #37 / Head output Rear Left + Yellow / black

Pin # 28 / no connection Pin #36 / no connection

Pin # 27 / no connection Pin #35 / no connection

Pin # 26 / DC ground factory ampBrown

Pin # 25 / Woofer Rear Right +Blue

Pin # 24 / Woofer Rear Right -Brown

Pin # 23 / Woofer Front Right +Blue / Red

Pin # 22 / Woofer Front Right -Blue / Brown



Pins 1-5 and 22-26 are heavier connections that then other pins, these are the ones that feed the woofers and provide power to the factory amp. I did not use the power connections for the factory amp for the ADS amp – the ADS can draw 30A and the factory connector had wire much to small for that type of current draw. Instead I powered the ADS amp directly (with safety fuses etc) from the battery (easy since BMW puts the battery in the trunk).






William

Richardson, Texas

2002 Alpine White/Black Leather/SMG

THANK YOU!!!! Helped me install my subwoofer
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Old 10-15-2014, 01:23 AM   #156
tks
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what an awesome thread.
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