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Old 12-07-2013, 01:01 AM   #421
mikeetastic
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fire730 View Post
Does the take off feel different if you have it in full automatic or M 1st gear?
nothing different aside that it wont go reverse, it's just like the car is pulling a small trailer.. it feels like the throttle is holding back or something?

Last edited by mikeetastic; 12-07-2013 at 01:02 AM.
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Old 12-10-2013, 02:07 PM   #422
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Brand new refurbished valve body being shipped to my mechanic now. Will update you all if it's a success in fixing my 2000 BMW 328i 5L40E no-reverse issue
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Old 12-10-2013, 04:21 PM   #423
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Brand new refurbished valve body being shipped to my mechanic now. Will update you all if it's a success in fixing my 2000 BMW 328i 5L40E no-reverse issue
Sadly, you only need a solenoid, not the entire valve body. And, if they swap the solenoids from the old valve body onto the new one, you will still have trouble. You need the Reverse Solenoid. The cost is $80-ish to your doorstep, and it takes another 5 minutes or so on top of the time needed to pull the pan and drain and refill the transmission. Basically, transmission service (routine fluid change) calls for dropping the pan and replacing some screens and filters. Pulling the five or six screws that hold the valve body and the clip that holds the solenoid, and putting this back together only adds a couple of minutes to the routine fluid change.

If you had read the thread and followed the advice, you would have saved several hundred dollars. How much to they get for the valve body these days?
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Old 12-11-2013, 11:05 AM   #424
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Perhaps it is you who has not read through this thread or many of the other 5L40E-specific no-reverse threads on the internet. This is a case of faulty bore hole placement design on by General Motors and is a common issue that can be fixed with Sonnax kits. This is a thoroughly studied problem.

and also fyi re-mfgd valve bodies, at least from my manufacturer, come with brand new solenoids.

Last edited by cwithbmw; 12-11-2013 at 11:07 AM.
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Old 01-05-2014, 12:59 AM   #425
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do i have a gm or zf tranny?? I dont see any markings on mine..

Pics... https://www.dropbox.com/s/aany3htsrs...101_104556.jpg
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Old 01-06-2014, 01:31 AM   #426
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Originally Posted by jdstrickland View Post
Sadly, you only need a solenoid, not the entire valve body. And, if they swap the solenoids from the old valve body onto the new one, you will still have trouble. You need the Reverse Solenoid. The cost is $80-ish to your doorstep, and it takes another 5 minutes or so on top of the time needed to pull the pan and drain and refill the transmission. Basically, transmission service (routine fluid change) calls for dropping the pan and replacing some screens and filters. Pulling the five or six screws that hold the valve body and the clip that holds the solenoid, and putting this back together only adds a couple of minutes to the routine fluid change.

If you had read the thread and followed the advice, you would have saved several hundred dollars. How much to they get for the valve body these days?
Wrong. The solenoid can be the problem but only in a very few cases. There are countless posts in this thread and all over the internet proving that after replacing the reverse solenoid the problem of no reverse still persists.

The problem in most cases is the worn out reverse lock out bore or the pieces of the solenoid screen stuck in that bore. You need a new valve body with Sonnax kit to fix the no reverse.

Please stop spreading the debunked solenoid version as the main cause. Again, it is possible but very rare.

The solenoid itself very rarely gets bad.
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Old 01-15-2014, 10:38 PM   #427
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Photo of the GM TCC lock out bore repair kit:



See Sonnax.com for more information!
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Old 01-26-2014, 01:27 AM   #428
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I have done hundreds of ZF overhauls with no reverse and have never seen the reverse drum shred. There is a snap ring that in my opinion is too close to the edge of the drum considering the amount of pressure that is used for reverse, The edge of the drum cracks off just above the snap ring allowing the piston to push the clutches out too far which lets the piston in the reverse drum get crooked in the bore and shears off the seal which reduces the fluid pressure. The car might still have reverse when the fluid is cold because it is thick and can still apply enough pressure to the cluthes cold but not when it warms up.

Once the piston seal is torn there is reallly no way for the drum to shred because it doesn create enough pressure to work. The forward gears will still work because that drum and clutches is only used for reverse. I see a lot of people spend lots of money gettng this fixed when they don't need to. The drum with seal kit is like $400 and they are ZF parts. I vry rarely repace the clutches even with 100k thay are usually You can get them from wittransmissions.com

The hard part is finding someone to fix the trans with customer supplied parts. The actual time for removing and overhauling is like 6.5 hours
This is old thread but it happening with my car this day. I am wondering if you have DIY to replace the seal. Thank you.
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Old 02-04-2014, 06:18 PM   #429
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Originally Posted by lszlszx View Post
Photo of the GM reverse lock out bore repair kit:



See Sonnax.com for more information!
awesome! this kit confirms what we already knew here, TCC solenoid can cause this problem. Mine is still holding up strong as ever. The others must have a problem with the regulator.

Last edited by wildcat293; 02-04-2014 at 06:19 PM.
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Old 02-24-2014, 09:24 PM   #430
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Hello all,

I recently had reverse go out on my 2000 328i. It is definitely the GM transmission. Initially, it would not reverse when it was very cold, but would engage after it warmed up. I took it to a transmission shop that changed out the solenoid as outlined above. Since then, reverse has been no more reliable. When the oil is warm and I've been driving for a while, it engages properly 99% of the time. When the oil is cold, it doesn't matter how long I let the car warm up or shift to R and throttle up (presumably running oil in the torque converter to warm it up). Any ideas?

Thanks!
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Old 02-24-2014, 09:38 PM   #431
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Experience shows that the problem is the valve body.
To be specific, it's the wear of the lockout bore.

If replacement of the solenoid didn't fix it, my next step would be to install the reverse lock out bore repair kit.
See picture above!
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Old 03-06-2014, 03:21 AM   #432
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Neil, what does GM stand for? I am new to E46. I searched and registered on E46 due to intermittant, no reverse problem. Unbelievable description . . . my experience exactly at 94K miles on my 2000, 328I .

I can't believe all the information you've shared here. Thank you, thank you!! Would like to take it to a mechanic. I live in So California, south Orange County . . . Aliso Viejo/Irvine/ Mission Viejo/Lake Forest areas. Are you familiar or is anyone else?? Any mechanic recommendations?? I have two. One I think is trustworthy, but doesn't get this involved and the other probably qualified, but I don't trust any more because I have spent $3,000 and three or four visits to repairs leaks that I still have! Not really certain he's not jerking me around any more. Most recently, tho I haven't let him do it , he now claims it's the main seal! The power steering pump is the only repair that I really considered necessary that I could tell for myself. The rest, I have to take his word, however I still have the leak. Clear, fist sized stains on the floor. Some pea size black grease spots too. Either that or it's the nastiest oil I've ever seen.

I have to say in spite of the problems, I still love my 328i. Should I take it to a dealership and pay the $150 or so to have it diagnosed both the tranny and leaks and then get repairs done by an independent that specializes in BMW? I don't want to be taken to the cleaners for lack of knowledge. I have a better understanding of cars, parts, function, than other women I know, but electrical and trans are the least of my knowledge. I only get my hands dirty to check water, oil and power steering fluid levels. I started at age 20 by using a kitchen knife to hold the butterfly of a carborator open to start my car in 20 degree weather in Chicago many years and cars ago! Your thread has given me more information than I could have hoped for. Any advice or recommendation is welcome ! Thanks again!!
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Old 03-06-2014, 07:56 AM   #433
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Joy... print this and show it to any potential mechanic. Maybe you could sneak a chat with a mech at a BMW shop and get him to do the oil leak at home? Check CL, sometimes the guys run a small shop at home at nite or wknds.

I found a small 1 car garage shop to repair a friends Subaru. It was 100 miles away, but after friend bot a junk Subby from a Stealership off ebay, the engine block was cracked, and this guy was a pro, and did an amazing job in just a few days for MUCH less than anyone else, with total competancy.



3 months later and the car is running great with the "new" smooth quiet motor, and heads re-done form the junk Subby. All in it was $1400 OTD. there's got to be an honest guy near you?!?!?!?!
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Old 03-07-2014, 12:17 AM   #434
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Neil, taking this to my mechanic! I 'm pretty sure based on your awesome volume of info that I have a GM. With this info my mechanic won't waste my money trying something for the wrong issue. By the way . . mine lost it at 93,500K mi.!! My question now is, what and when will I encounter problems with all the forward gears??!! I've replaced the throttle body, radiator, power steering pump and two window regulators as well as various parts of front end suspension.

Thanks!
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Old 03-07-2014, 09:45 AM   #435
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Neil isn't active right now on the forum.
The forward gears aren't problematic on these transmissions.
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Old 04-10-2014, 09:46 PM   #436
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Hi All! Sorry for the duplication here, I read the newbie posting thing after I posted this in the general questions section......

I am placing an order for the solenoid to fix the no reverse issue I am having and I wanted to make sure these were the correct parts and also ask what kind and how much fluid should I be buying? Also, I need a pump but are there any other tools I need that cannot be found in a regular tool set? Any input is welcomed. Thanks!

1 Pressure regulator,convert.lockup clutch 24327532013 $70.38
1 Gasket, oil pan 24117524707 $28.61
1 Set oil filter 24117557070 $114.52
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Old 04-12-2014, 04:13 PM   #437
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Mango, I want to give you the benefit of doubt realizing there are individuals whom sometimes don't weigh how abrasive and insulting their comments can be in attempt to be direct. Did you mean to be insulting to me? Did you mean to imply that I'm not of "high" intelligence? Good for you that you can spend your day's with your head under the hood of a car, but I can't because I'm an architect with a family who has more than my car to live for. (Virginia Tech graduate - not bad for being of less than "higher" intelligence, dont you say?) Granted, I've made some mistakes with this car and the intial mechanic I used and I'm humble enough to admit it. Yet, NO CAR should be this much trouble no matter whom is working on it! I'm 50 years old and have been fortunate enough to own some very fine cars including Chevy's, Ford's, Dodge's, even the Lexus I drive now, and without a doubt this BM'r has been the biggest turd I've ever owned. So Mango, it's your prerogative to criticize me for how I've chosen to solve the problems I've had (having) with this car, but I think I have a very valid point to question why can I put 200,000 miles on a Honda accord with just basic recommended service, yet this "superior" engineered BMW can't get out of the driveway without something falling off it? It's just a fact Mango that not everybody is a mechanic and that's ok. Humbly, I think you (and anyone else who happens to agree with your insulting post to me) should do a reality check and decide if it's my mistake being conceded to believe I shouldn't have to be a mechanic to own a BMW or more your mistake having to be one just to make your car reliable enough to compare to many equally and capable cars? I would appreciate any future remarks to me be made with respect and consideration. Thanks.
Abrasive... insulting? Probably.

You shouldn't take anything personal on the internet/forums. Use the positive comments/recommendations and disregard the negative stuff.

Your car is old and you should be able to find out anything you need to know by searching forums and reading. Anything you think about posting has probably already been asked numerous times.

Also, if you have some basic tools... you are highly capable of replacing parts yourself.
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Old 04-12-2014, 08:38 PM   #438
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I also have owned many many cars, and without question the less I pay the better they are. It's just a weird thing.

I bot my '03 325xi last May, 159k, $4,000, and and it has a few probs, like fuel pump-1/4 tank issue, siezed LR caliper, leaking and dead LR shock, two rt side tires losing air, leaking valve cover, torn intake boot.. Small stuff, but a repair shop bill would sue add up if I couldn't do it myself. I drove it to Western Mass last fall, and really like the overall feel, tranny shifts nice n firm, good fuel mileage, 28-32.

I also drive an '84 Suburban daily, from California, bot in '07 w 234k, now w 276k, hardly ever a prob, and I drove it 3,000 miles return to Michigan and Indiana last summer, 17mpg w no A/C at 60-65

My nearly identical '84 K5 Blazer w 1/2 the miles is always acting up. both are 6.2 diesel 4x4's.

On the insults, I recently wrote a letter to a social column, and most folks were sympathetic to my plight, but some were nasty vicious and insulting. It makes me think that they have the prob, not me. Like Mango, they may have lots of good info, but just lack some social graces or just feel comfortable hurling rotten eggs at easy targets.

When I ran an auto repair shop and then switched to apt rentals, I would feel bad for people and help them fix stuff, no charge or way below market value. Mrs would get so PO'd, and she was rite. The money I would save them they would blow somewhere else, or get ripped off the next day after I tried to save their skin...

I don't recall if I read the off-putting comments, but the typed page can be flat and hard to express a feeling or easily mis-interpret someones thoughts. I'm not apologizing for Mango, but I go to the internet for relaxation/socialization, not to be flamed. I suspect you do to... You can get off the Psych couch now -)
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Old 04-17-2014, 07:47 PM   #439
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Here's my story, it might help someone:

A month after I bought my car, the reverse stopped working. I hoped that the TCC solenoid replacement would fix it, but it didn't. What I noticed was that the inlet filter was missing on the old solenoid. You can see it here on the right:



I figured those broken pieces were wreaking havoc inside the transmission, so I removed and disassembled the valve body to look for them.
Sure enough, I found them - at least most of them - inside the bore, see below:



Here you can see them better. These broken pieces could have prevented the plunger from moving, or reduced fuel pressure by restricting flow.



If you do this, be careful when handling the valve body, there are these plastic balls placed at strategic places that control the fluid flow. No matter how careful I was, the balls moved.
Luckily with the help of this photo that I took after separating the valve body,I was able to replace them.

At this point, I was not even worried about the reverse, I just didn't want to lose the forward gears.



Other than that, the valve body isn't that complicated.



Well, I put it back together and it all worked including the reverse.

This was in February 2013 and at the time of this edit, in October 2014 is still working.

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Old 04-17-2014, 08:45 PM   #440
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Good post, I found the check balls intimidating also, but when the book is referenced, it is pretty easy to get them back in place, I used trans lube to stick them in place so they didn't fall out when inverted, locations:


The book can be found on Google, search for 5L40E.pdf
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