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Old 04-08-2014, 01:23 PM   #21
amf
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Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: houston, tx
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I still have this p0011. I went ahead and brought car to local mechanic he scanned and keeps getting bmw code 67 Inlet VANOS camshaft, end position not reached. He tried to exercise vanos but he says it won't complete the exercise. He was thinking it could be solenoid but I did swap the intake and exhaust solenoids with no change. Is there a correct way to test solenoid? I did put 12volt on it and saw the plunger move about 3/8in outwards. He seems to think a gear is stuck on end of camshaft maybe. He suggest I do engine flush with cheap oil to try to free the stuck gear. Anyone think this could be problem or vanos solenoid?


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Old 04-08-2014, 01:42 PM   #22
TLM
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It may be the exhaust solenoid that needs to be cleaned out. You can also swap the intake and exhaust solenoids to test since they are the same.

Had a similar experience after doing the VANOS seals. Had to take out the VANOS again to get to the exhaust solenoid and open it up and clean it up.

Put everything back in and presto, no more CEL and the power was back.

It's been about 8K since doing the work and has been running really good.
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Old 04-08-2014, 11:13 PM   #23
Dirty-330
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amf View Post
I still have this p0011. I went ahead and brought car to local mechanic he scanned and keeps getting bmw code 67 Inlet VANOS camshaft, end position not reached. He tried to exercise vanos but he says it won't complete the exercise. He was thinking it could be solenoid but I did swap the intake and exhaust solenoids with no change. Is there a correct way to test solenoid? I did put 12volt on it and saw the plunger move about 3/8in outwards. He seems to think a gear is stuck on end of camshaft maybe. He suggest I do engine flush with cheap oil to try to free the stuck gear. Anyone think this could be problem or vanos solenoid?

He could be right, makes good enough technical sense.



Quote:
Originally Posted by TLM View Post
It may be the exhaust solenoid that needs to be cleaned out. You can also swap the intake and exhaust solenoids to test since they are the same.

Had a similar experience after doing the VANOS seals. Had to take out the VANOS again to get to the exhaust solenoid and open it up and clean it up.

Put everything back in and presto, no more CEL and the power was back.

It's been about 8K since doing the work and has been running really good.
He said he swapped already, but cleaning might fix. If both are equally dirty, the spec thats out of movement may only triger code on E side.

Try flush first b/c its easy and can do no harm. If no results clean E solenoid or both.

Last edited by Dirty-330; 04-08-2014 at 11:15 PM.
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Old 04-09-2014, 03:57 AM   #24
aj94260
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I happen to have the same codes as you have! p0011, p0012 and sometimes p0014. It has been about 1k miles and I think that it is beyond the break in period of the seals. Thank you for posting this up. I was actually going to visit an Indy tomorrow, but I think I'll cancel until I can check if I inserted the spring in the exhaust side! I'll post again as soon as I complete it. Note: I have replaced both the intake and the exhaust CPS.


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Old 04-09-2014, 11:32 PM   #25
Rajaie
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Here are the things that can cause these codes.
1. Wrong timing. But someone would have needed to disturb the timing.
2. Failed vanos seals. But you guys have replaced the vanos seals.
3. Aftermarket camshaft position sensor. Only use OEM.
4. Sticking vanos solenoid piston.

Here is how to resolve a sticking vanos intake solenoid piston.
Looking at the vanos from the front of the car, on the right side is a 2" long silver cylinder with an electrical connector at the end of it. This is the intake solenoid. Remove the cable electrical connector. At the base of the solenoid is a 32mm hex. Use a 32mm open wrench to unscrew the solenoid. Turn the wrench clockwise from the front of the car since the solenoid is screwed in from the rear of the vanos. Unscrew and remove the solenoid (hand). Where the solenoid is screwed into the vanos body there is a cylinder and finger size red spring loaded piston in the vanos body. Press in and release the piston. It should press in with a little resistance and spring back when released. It should move very smoothly. If it's slightly sticking that's the problem. Pull out the piston form the vanos. Clean the piston and cylinder with brake cleaner and towels. Let dry. Re-oil the piston and cylinder. Reinsert the piston in the cylinder and check its movement. It should reciprocate very smoothly. Reinstall the solenoid and plug in its cable electrical connector.

Here's how to check and resolve a sticking vanos exhaust solenoid piston.
With the vanos mounted on the engine, remove the vanos exhaust solenoid with a 32mm deep socket.
Most 32mm deep sockets aren't deep enough for the vanos solenoid. The Advance Auto AutoCraft 32mm deep socket works. Also a showerhead socket works.
Place paper towels on the radiator lower hose to catch dripping oil. Also have a paper towel under the solenoid junction when removing the solenoid.
Where the solenoid screws into the vanos is a cylinder with red spring loaded piston. Press in the piston and release. It should press in with resistance and spring back when released. The piston movement should be smooth. If it's not then this is likely the problem.
Pull out the piston while holding a paper towel under it to catch oil.
Spray clean the piston and it's cylinder with brake cleaner. Dry the piston and cylinder.
Oil the piston and cylinder and reinstall the piston.
Check the piston movement. Press in and release the piston multiple times. Its movement should be very smooth.
Reinstall the solenoid.

Last edited by Rajaie; 04-09-2014 at 11:32 PM.
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Old 04-10-2014, 12:54 AM   #26
aj94260
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Smile

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rajaie View Post
Here are the things that can cause these codes.
1. Wrong timing. But someone would have needed to disturb the timing.
2. Failed vanos seals. But you guys have replaced the vanos seals.
3. Aftermarket camshaft position sensor. Only use OEM.
4. Sticking vanos solenoid piston.

Here is how to resolve a sticking vanos intake solenoid piston.
Looking at the vanos from the front of the car, on the right side is a 2" long silver cylinder with an electrical connector at the end of it. This is the intake solenoid. Remove the cable electrical connector. At the base of the solenoid is a 32mm hex. Use a 32mm open wrench to unscrew the solenoid. Turn the wrench clockwise from the front of the car since the solenoid is screwed in from the rear of the vanos. Unscrew and remove the solenoid (hand). Where the solenoid is screwed into the vanos body there is a cylinder and finger size red spring loaded piston in the vanos body. Press in and release the piston. It should press in with a little resistance and spring back when released. It should move very smoothly. If it's slightly sticking that's the problem. Pull out the piston form the vanos. Clean the piston and cylinder with brake cleaner and towels. Let dry. Re-oil the piston and cylinder. Reinsert the piston in the cylinder and check its movement. It should reciprocate very smoothly. Reinstall the solenoid and plug in its cable electrical connector.

Here's how to check and resolve a sticking vanos exhaust solenoid piston.
With the vanos mounted on the engine, remove the vanos exhaust solenoid with a 32mm deep socket.
Most 32mm deep sockets aren't deep enough for the vanos solenoid. The Advance Auto AutoCraft 32mm deep socket works. Also a showerhead socket works.
Place paper towels on the radiator lower hose to catch dripping oil. Also have a paper towel under the solenoid junction when removing the solenoid.
Where the solenoid screws into the vanos is a cylinder with red spring loaded piston. Press in the piston and release. It should press in with resistance and spring back when released. The piston movement should be smooth. If it's not then this is likely the problem.
Pull out the piston while holding a paper towel under it to catch oil.
Spray clean the piston and it's cylinder with brake cleaner. Dry the piston and cylinder.
Oil the piston and cylinder and reinstall the piston.
Check the piston movement. Press in and release the piston multiple times. Its movement should be very smooth.
Reinstall the solenoid.
In addition, if you happen to have placed the spring on the intake side you will also get these codes. After I took the vanos apart I found that mine was actually in the intake side. I then relocated it to the exhaust side and the car felt much smoother and I got rid of the damn cam shaft lights!!! Make sure you insert the spring in the exhaust side!!!!!!! I was quoted 500 to fix the problem... it took me about 4 hours to fix it lol
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Old 05-07-2014, 06:53 PM   #27
amf
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update for me. I took to another bmw mechanic. They checked the timing and it was definitely off. They retimed correctly and I pick up car tomorrow. I am glad it is finally figured out.
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Old 05-07-2014, 07:29 PM   #28
Dirty-330
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amf View Post
update for me. I took to another bmw mechanic. They checked the timing and it was definitely off. They retimed correctly and I pick up car tomorrow. I am glad it is finally figured out.
Hmm...

How many miles on the motor?

So you were told the only problem with the car is that the timing is off, any parts they are replacing?
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Old 05-08-2014, 06:53 AM   #29
amf
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Originally Posted by Dirty-330 View Post
Hmm...

How many miles on the motor?

So you were told the only problem with the car is that the timing is off, any parts they are replacing?
I bought it with 106,000 miles. It had this CEL code when I bought it. I thought it was just a sensor ( easy fix). I have put 2000miles on it since I bought it. The did replace a idler pulley and belt they said need to be replaced. I will do water pump soon. They replaced no other parts besides valve cover gasket and vanos gasket.
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Old 05-27-2014, 09:24 PM   #30
amf
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well just an update for my p0011 code. I took to an independent service mechanic. They checked the timing and my timing was off. The have corrected the timing and the code is gone!!!! They said that someone has pulled the head off before and that is probably what screwed up the timing. I guess you never know buying a used car. I wish the owner would have said something. Thanks for the help.
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