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Old 02-22-2014, 09:02 AM   #601
jdjg
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still cold crank issue ;(


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Old 04-10-2014, 06:04 PM   #602
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I too have had some issues with the TS2 since intall. It was installed about 12mnths ago now and since then the engine surges between 5-7k rpm. It pulls strong right upto 5k rpm (ish) and i don't have any cold start or idling issues. It's really got the better of me now as I have changed just about everything. The surge is very noticeable and annoying as the power feels like it shuts off and on between this rev range.

I've replaced OEM coil packs, iridium plugs, OEM MAF, OEM fuel filter, Aeromotive 340 fuel pump,vanos seals, vanos solenoids. The only thing I haven't replaced are the cam and crank sensors, the lambda sensors and knock sensors.. I have found no vacuum leaks and the SC drive belt is new. I'm running Shell V-power 99RON fuel and I'm now convinced that this must be a software issue. Has anyone else had similar issues or shed any light on this problem? I've spent a small fortune replacing everything to no effect.

I really don't think it will be the lambda sensors as it is happening when in open loop. I have a slight hunch that it may be pulling timing for a split second then returning to normal then pulling timing again, this giving me this surging symptom. What's your thoughts?

Also, What colour should the injectors be?

Thanks

Last edited by Alun1976; 04-10-2014 at 06:38 PM.
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Old 04-10-2014, 06:54 PM   #603
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Originally Posted by Alun1976 View Post
I too have had some issues with the TS2 since intall. It was installed about 12mnths ago now and since then the engine surges between 5-7k rpm. It pulls strong right upto 5k rpm (ish) and i don't have any cold start or idling issues. It's really got the better of me now as I have changed just about everything. The surge is very noticeable and annoying as the power feels like it shuts off and on between this rev range.

I've replaced OEM coil packs, iridium plugs, OEM MAF, OEM fuel filter, Aeromotive 340 fuel pump,vanos seals, vanos solenoids. The only thing I haven't replaced are the cam and crank sensors, the lambda sensors and knock sensors.. I have found no vacuum leaks and the SC drive belt is new. I'm running Shell V-power 99RON fuel and I'm now convinced that this must be a software issue. Has anyone else had similar issues or shed any light on this problem? I've spent a small fortune replacing everything to no effect.

I really don't think it will be the lambda sensors as it is happening when in open loop. I have a slight hunch that it may be pulling timing for a split second then returning to normal then pulling timing again, this giving me this surging symptom. What's your thoughts?

Also, What colour should the injectors be?

Thanks

did you try to contact ESS via email?

my injectors are red......



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Old 04-10-2014, 07:13 PM   #604
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did you try to contact ESS via email?

my injectors are red......



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Yes mine are red too. I've tried to get support from Simpson Motorsport, who is the dealer of ESS here in the uK, to sort the problem but I never get any response from them. I will try ESS via email tomorrow.

Have you any experience of this problem?
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Old 04-10-2014, 08:51 PM   #605
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They were not too helpful for me...
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Old 04-12-2014, 06:38 PM   #606
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Yes mine are red too. I've tried to get support from Simpson Motorsport, who is the dealer of ESS here in the uK, to sort the problem but I never get any response from them. I will try ESS via email tomorrow.



Have you any experience of this problem?

no, my only problem are the terrible
cold crank issue.......
please keep us inform about your issue please....



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Old 04-13-2014, 09:29 AM   #607
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no, my only problem are the terrible
cold crank issue.......
please keep us inform about your issue please....



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Will do. Ive analysed it a bit more yesterday whilst taking it for a hard run. The power pulses on and off for about 1 second intervals above 5.5k rpm. When I say off I mean power reduces to about 70 or 80% of full power. So when I reach 5.5k rpm the power reduces to about 70% for a second then it hits full power again for a second then cuts back to 70% again. This cycle repeats until 7k rpm even though the pedal is down to the floor. It is quite noticable and you can hear the difference in the engine tone when it happens. It also gives a small kick in the back when it happens so maybe the power drop is more than ive quoted. Sometimes it wont happen at all and the car will pull strong right to 7k. This is only the case though usually on a cold day and when ive been driving gentle and then knock it into second gear and floor it, It will pull strong right through tge entire rev range. However, the power problem will start to happen as I continue to floor it in 3rd, 4th gears etc beyond 5.5k rpm. Its really annoying cause I know the car should be pulling a lot more than it should and the uneven power delivery is horrible.

It feels like it may be retarding timing for one second intervals on and off but I am no expert in this field and dont know how the knock sensing system works. Can someone kindly explain to me precisely what the ECU does when knock is detected including details of timing retard duration.

Thanks

Al

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Old 04-13-2014, 02:22 PM   #608
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It feels like it may be retarding timing for one second intervals on and off but I am no expert in this field and dont know how the knock sensing system works. Can someone kindly explain to me precisely what the ECU does when knock is detected including details of timing retard duration.
My guess is it is retarding timing too, perhaps fill up with some very high octane fuel and see if it disappears?
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Old 04-21-2014, 08:40 PM   #609
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The cold start idle issue sounds like lifters that have both leaked down while sitting and are slow to pump up on cold start, when the get really bad they cause cold start misfires on cold winter mornings, to diag remove valve cover and press down on them with a man thumb or suitable dull screwdriver, rock hard is good squishy (at all )is bad. M54 lifter bridges have such a tight carrier for the lifter that typical lifter noise is not as easily heard as on the n52 for example. Rev it a bit on cold start to pump them up, or replace all 24 lifters or deal with it. My lifters are new Oem with 10k and besian vanos seals with 10k, car idles like silk always even with zhp cams and tune.

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Old 04-21-2014, 09:25 PM   #610
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Will do. Ive analysed it a bit more yesterday whilst taking it for a hard run. The power pulses on and off for about 1 second intervals above 5.5k rpm. When I say off I mean power reduces to about 70 or 80% of full power. So when I reach 5.5k rpm the power reduces to about 70% for a second then it hits full power again for a second then cuts back to 70% again. This cycle repeats until 7k rpm even though the pedal is down to the floor. It is quite noticable and you can hear the difference in the engine tone when it happens. It also gives a small kick in the back when it happens so maybe the power drop is more than ive quoted. Sometimes it wont happen at all and the car will pull strong right to 7k. This is only the case though usually on a cold day and when ive been driving gentle and then knock it into second gear and floor it, It will pull strong right through tge entire rev range. However, the power problem will start to happen as I continue to floor it in 3rd, 4th gears etc beyond 5.5k rpm. Its really annoying cause I know the car should be pulling a lot more than it should and the uneven power delivery is horrible.

It feels like it may be retarding timing for one second intervals on and off but I am no expert in this field and dont know how the knock sensing system works. Can someone kindly explain to me precisely what the ECU does when knock is detected including details of timing retard duration.

Thanks

Al

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Stock exhaust manifolds I'm guessing? Try headers. I had what sounds like the same problem with the DME pulling timing on the top end when I had the stock exhaust manifolds and catalytic converters.
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Old 04-21-2014, 11:38 PM   #611
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Stock exhaust manifolds I'm guessing? Try headers. I had what sounds like the same problem with the DME pulling timing on the top end when I had the stock exhaust manifolds and catalytic converters.

Glad to see you're still posting.



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Old 04-23-2014, 07:08 AM   #612
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The cold start idle issue sounds like lifters that have both leaked down while sitting and are slow to pump up on cold start, when the get really bad they cause cold start misfires on cold winter mornings, to diag remove valve cover and press down on them with a man thumb or suitable dull screwdriver, rock hard is good squishy (at all )is bad. M54 lifter bridges have such a tight carrier for the lifter that typical lifter noise is not as easily heard as on the n52 for example. Rev it a bit on cold start to pump them up, or replace all 24 lifters or deal with it. My lifters are new Oem with 10k and besian vanos seals with 10k, car idles like silk always even with zhp cams and tune.

I rebuilt my motor before I put the SC also I change all the 24 lifters and have the well know cold crank issues


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Old 04-23-2014, 05:11 PM   #613
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Stock exhaust manifolds I'm guessing? Try headers. I had what sounds like the same problem with the DME pulling timing on the top end when I had the stock exhaust manifolds and catalytic converters.
Hi,

I have E36 M3 tubular headers fitted and a full decatted system, so not sure why it would pull timing. Ive recently bought an obdlink MX and downloaded the knock detect app on my android phone. It says that no knock is being detected despite the problem clearly happening. This is really annoying me now, cause ive changed literally everything and the problem still exists.

What other things can cause this surging problem above 5.5k rpm? The problem also seems to occur more often in warmer weather? Could the heat rating of a spark plug cause these issues?

Any ideas would be appreciated?

Thanks

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Old 04-23-2014, 05:56 PM   #614
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What plugs, what gap, & what heat range ?
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Nitrous is a little trickier than boost, but it's not the spray that kills motors, it's STUPIDITY!!
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Old 04-24-2014, 04:19 PM   #615
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What plugs, what gap, & what heat range ?
They are NGK BKR6EIX iridium plugs. I will have to check the gap.
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Old 04-25-2014, 02:23 PM   #616
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Originally Posted by Alun1976 View Post
I too have had some issues with the TS2 since intall. It was installed about 12mnths ago now and since then the engine surges between 5-7k rpm. It pulls strong right upto 5k rpm (ish) and i don't have any cold start or idling issues. It's really got the better of me now as I have changed just about everything. The surge is very noticeable and annoying as the power feels like it shuts off and on between this rev range.

I've replaced OEM coil packs, iridium plugs, OEM MAF, OEM fuel filter, Aeromotive 340 fuel pump,vanos seals, vanos solenoids. The only thing I haven't replaced are the cam and crank sensors, the lambda sensors and knock sensors.. I have found no vacuum leaks and the SC drive belt is new. I'm running Shell V-power 99RON fuel and I'm now convinced that this must be a software issue. Has anyone else had similar issues or shed any light on this problem? I've spent a small fortune replacing everything to no effect.

I really don't think it will be the lambda sensors as it is happening when in open loop. I have a slight hunch that it may be pulling timing for a split second then returning to normal then pulling timing again, this giving me this surging symptom. What's your thoughts?

Also, What colour should the injectors be?

Thanks

LOL, Yes........ I have actually gone to a Haltech PS2000 computer, Problems solved.

Put it on a dyno and get a Boost and AFR read out, the engine might be leaning out above 5k.... this would not be the first.
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Old 05-01-2014, 11:46 AM   #617
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Well thanks for your help guys. After a long 12 months of trying to solve this problem and spending a **** load of money I can finally say that it's now sorted. You won't believe the culprit and neither can I.

When I installed the TS2, I also put a new set of uprated plugs NGK BKR6EIX. I have recently bought a set of BKR7EIX and fitted them and voilą, the problem is finally solved. Power delivery is smooth right through all gears and it pulls like a mother f**ker. I can't believe that a set of spark plugs can create such problems and that they have had me scratching my head for a bitter 12 months. I want to share this with others to prevent them the expense and frustration of trying to fix this problem if it happens to them.

ESS quote to stick with the OEM spark plugs, and I suppose that is fine if you don't experience any problems, but for those that do, please give careful consideration of changing plugs to one colder. This is a new thing I have learnt and will never forget. It has nearly drove me insane over the last 12 months and I'm still finding it difficult to understand exactly why a one grade hotter plug would cause such uneven pulsatile power delivery. It's beyond me!

Has anyone ever experienced this kind of problem with an unsatisfactory heat range of plug?

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Old 05-01-2014, 01:55 PM   #618
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Well thanks for your help guys. After a long 12 months of trying to solve this problem and spending a **** load of money I can finally say that it's now sorted. You won't believe the culprit and neither can I.

When I installed the TS2, I also put a new set of uprated plugs NGK BKR6EIX. I have recently bought a set of BKR7EIX and fitted them and voilą, the problem is finally solved. Power delivery is smooth right through all gears and it pulls like a mother f**ker. I can't believe that a set of spark plugs can create such problems and that they have had me scratching my head for a bitter 12 months. I want to share this with others to prevent them the expense and frustration of trying to fix this problem if it happens to them.

ESS quote to stick with the OEM spark plugs, and I suppose that is fine if you don't experience any problems, but for those that do, please give careful consideration of changing plugs to one colder. This is a new thing I have learnt and will never forget. It has nearly drove me insane over the last 12 months and I'm still finding it difficult to understand exactly why a one grade hotter plug would cause such uneven pulsatile power delivery. It's beyond me!

Has anyone ever experienced this kind of problem with an unsatisfactory heat range of plug?

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Will have to look into that!
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Old 05-02-2014, 12:00 AM   #619
cosmos328Ci
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Originally Posted by Alun1976 View Post
Well thanks for your help guys. After a long 12 months of trying to solve this problem and spending a **** load of money I can finally say that it's now sorted. You won't believe the culprit and neither can I.

When I installed the TS2, I also put a new set of uprated plugs NGK BKR6EIX. I have recently bought a set of BKR7EIX and fitted them and voilą, the problem is finally solved. Power delivery is smooth right through all gears and it pulls like a mother f**ker. I can't believe that a set of spark plugs can create such problems and that they have had me scratching my head for a bitter 12 months. I want to share this with others to prevent them the expense and frustration of trying to fix this problem if it happens to them.

ESS quote to stick with the OEM spark plugs, and I suppose that is fine if you don't experience any problems, but for those that do, please give careful consideration of changing plugs to one colder. This is a new thing I have learnt and will never forget. It has nearly drove me insane over the last 12 months and I'm still finding it difficult to understand exactly why a one grade hotter plug would cause such uneven pulsatile power delivery. It's beyond me!

Has anyone ever experienced this kind of problem with an unsatisfactory heat range of plug?

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Great work, it feels so good when your car runs as it should.

One way colder or hotter should not really make that much difference in relation to your problem.
I used to run NGK in my old street/drag car and had nothing but problems, then through testing the NGK plugs in a special spark plug tester found that they would fail. I went through sets of NGK spark plugs back in the mid 90's, they would literally last only a couple of hundred KM's before having to be replaced. After testing lots of plugs, I settled on Nippon Denso. These were the only ones to last up to a 1,000 Km's. I have never used NGK again since the mid 90's.

All the best and have fun with your new car.
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Old 05-02-2014, 11:31 AM   #620
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Great work, it feels so good when your car runs as it should.



One way colder or hotter should not really make that much difference in relation to your problem.

I used to run NGK in my old street/drag car and had nothing but problems, then through testing the NGK plugs in a special spark plug tester found that they would fail. I went through sets of NGK spark plugs back in the mid 90's, they would literally last only a couple of hundred KM's before having to be replaced. After testing lots of plugs, I settled on Nippon Denso. These were the only ones to last up to a 1,000 Km's. I have never used NGK again since the mid 90's.



All the best and have fun with your new car.

+1 I also use those spark plugs


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