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The Showroom
This is the place to show off your BMW to other members of the community. Post pictures and videos of your car and the modifications you have done to it. If you need a picture of something on a coupe, sedan, convertible or touring you will probably find it here!

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Old 06-26-2014, 12:24 PM   #741
BDUB328I
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so what's not lining up with the M3 underpan, can you atleast get some of the bolts that secure it started?
I'll have to take some pics and show you guys. Hopefully I can make it over to my car today. But IIRC none of the holes were lining up
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Old 06-28-2014, 06:10 AM   #742
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I managed to get a few things done yesterday: I attached the fuel filter cover, the remainder of my heat shields, also installed a Clutch stop.

next on the agenda is to finish installing my m3 exhaust section 1 and 2. also install the front charcoal filter cover (I used it as my shield while soldering everything) I didn't even now where it belonged on the car until I got home and looked it up. I'm still waiting on my T-Bolt Terminal hold downs as I broke one after having my battery in and out 50 times in the past couple weeks. After that I just need to re-bleed everything, and get another ECU cover (the m3 one does not fit the non-m box, nor does the m3 cover bolts). I also need to get the little clip thing that holds the wire on the E brake so the E brake light comes on the dash when on.

ok does anyone have a pic of their fuel feed line that comes off of the fuel filter? It seems like my fuel feed hose is very close to the engine, I'm wondering if I should use a zip tie or something to hold it against the brake pipes or something? here is pic I took to remind my self to check it out... the blue/purple line is my SS clutch line and the big black one behind that is the fuel supply line/hose... I'm wondering if I have the supply hose routed improperly...

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Old 06-28-2014, 06:19 AM   #743
BDUB328I
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I also managed to test fit my front support again and took some pics. so I could show you why its not fitting.... where the front bolts to the control arms fits perfectly, but the back of the reinforcement brace is where I'm having problems...it's hitting the plastic inner wheel well.



I also noticed I have a bolt that broke off (when I removed it 3 years ago) on the driver side ^ where my old triangle brace bolted up...



sorry for crappy phone pics but I was laying on back holding up the brace with my body and trying to stick my camera/head between the brace and the front subframe
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Old 06-28-2014, 12:57 PM   #744
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do you have the pan upside down by chance?

If it's just plastic you can always trim the plastic to fit, but I still don't think you should need to do it.
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Old 06-29-2014, 02:30 PM   #745
BDUB328I
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do you have the pan upside down by chance?

If it's just plastic you can always trim the plastic to fit, but I still don't think you should need to do it.
the pan is not upside down, and even if it was, the pan seems to be far to wide in the rear... like both of the sides stick out into my wheel wells and hit the plastic...

do you have any pics of yours mounted?
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Old 06-30-2014, 08:54 AM   #746
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I have the OEM non-M underpan, it's a good bit more robust or less flimsy than the M underpan but does not have the connection from the LCAB carriers to the pan itself.

Could you try trimming that M pan in the area's it's sticking into the plastics and wheel well?
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Old 07-01-2014, 12:43 PM   #747
BDUB328I
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Originally Posted by JohnBlaze View Post
I have the OEM non-M underpan, it's a good bit more robust or less flimsy than the M underpan but does not have the connection from the LCAB carriers to the pan itself.

Could you try trimming that M pan in the area's it's sticking into the plastics and wheel well?
I could try trimming it but I will probably try other options first like buying a non-m underpan...

do you have the full m3 front suspension control arms steering ext? If so did you have any problems fitting the non-m pan?
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Old 07-01-2014, 07:13 PM   #748
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I have all oem style ZHP front suspension set up, although a lot of it is aftermarket.

The thing with the non M underpan is that it won't fit with your M3 LCAB carriers. The bolt holes that the M pan connects to on the LCAB carriers will get in the way of the non M pan. I personally had this problem on my 328ci that I had the M3 LCAB's on and ended up having to cut holes in the non M pan to make it fit.

If you were closer I'd give you this used M3 underpan I have sitting to try trimming it.
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Old 07-02-2014, 05:59 AM   #749
BDUB328I
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I have all oem style ZHP front suspension set up, although a lot of it is aftermarket.

The thing with the non M underpan is that it won't fit with your M3 LCAB carriers. The bolt holes that the M pan connects to on the LCAB carriers will get in the way of the non M pan. I personally had this problem on my 328ci that I had the M3 LCAB's on and ended up having to cut holes in the non M pan to make it fit.

If you were closer I'd give you this used M3 underpan I have sitting to try trimming it.
ok well thanks for all the reply's... I'll have to figure something out

I got my car insured/registered yesterday and was driving it on the street a bit, It was running ok at some points and not very good other times. I'm hoping that its just running rough because I reset all the adaptations? It seemed to get a little better when I put some fresh gas in it...

When I got back after about a 10 minute driving session, it all of a sudden had a crazy knocking noise while in neutral and the clutch was not pressed. This sound was not there before taking this 10 minute drive, and i did start my car and dive it in first and 2nd gear around the parking lot a couple times prior. As soon as I push the clutch the noise is gone and the car idles quietly. I'm hoping its just some "chatter" or something from my ACT flywheel but it is much louder than i expected..

this is NOT my car its a random video of an e36 m3 with UUC flywheel, but my car sounds almost exactly like this when in neutral without pushing the clutch...

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Old 07-02-2014, 02:18 PM   #750
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I didn't have any issues with the M3 reinforcement plate bolting up to my sedan with the M3 front control arms.

Also, the clutch rattle happens pretty frequently with the lightweight flywheel. I have the same issue. UUC suggests a different fluid mix. You can also raise the idle to around 1050rpm so it's less obnoxious at a stop.
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i'd rather be gapless with no bulge
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Old 07-02-2014, 04:40 PM   #751
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I didn't have any issues with the M3 reinforcement plate bolting up to my sedan with the M3 front control arms.

Also, the clutch rattle happens pretty frequently with the lightweight flywheel. I have the same issue. UUC suggests a different fluid mix. You can also raise the idle to around 1050rpm so it's less obnoxious at a stop.
What fluid do they recommend? I'll have mine out this weekend.
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Old 07-02-2014, 04:58 PM   #752
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bino5150 View Post
What fluid do they recommend? I'll have mine out this weekend.
http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/flywheel/gear_rattle.htm

YMMV.
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i'd rather be gapless with no bulge
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Old 07-02-2014, 04:59 PM   #753
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I didn't have any issues with the M3 reinforcement plate bolting up to my sedan with the M3 front control arms.

Also, the clutch rattle happens pretty frequently with the lightweight flywheel. I have the same issue. UUC suggests a different fluid mix. You can also raise the idle to around 1050rpm so it's less obnoxious at a stop.
Ask us how we know...
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Old 07-02-2014, 04:59 PM   #754
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HighBoostin330 View Post
Ask us how we know...
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i'd rather be gapless with no bulge
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Old 07-02-2014, 07:21 PM   #755
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyberkaa View Post
I didn't have any issues with the M3 reinforcement plate bolting up to my sedan with the M3 front control arms.

Also, the clutch rattle happens pretty frequently with the lightweight flywheel. I have the same issue. UUC suggests a different fluid mix. You can also raise the idle to around 1050rpm so it's less obnoxious at a stop.
awesome at least that gives me some re-assurance that nothing is seriously wrong, I was a little scared at first... The trans fluid is the only fluid I have not changed yet so I guess I'll add that to my list. I guess I should raise the idle also... need someone to help me with coding (I will probably end up bribing Terra...), for some reason INPA hates my laptop and I cant get it working after many hours of trying.. PA SOFT works great but is only capable of doing so much and I don't think raising the idle is an option with pasoft

interesting you didn't have any problems bolting up the reinforcement plate, I wonder if the 325/330 are different? or maybe the reinforcement plates are different for vert/coup... my plate came from a vert. I'll have to do some more research
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Old 07-02-2014, 07:38 PM   #756
cyberkaa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BDUB328I View Post
awesome at least that gives me some re-assurance that nothing is seriously wrong, I was a little scared at first... The trans fluid is the only fluid I have not changed yet so I guess I'll add that to my list. I guess I should raise the idle also... need someone to help me with coding (I will probably end up bribing Terra...), for some reason INPA hates my laptop and I cant get it working after many hours of trying.. PA SOFT works great but is only capable of doing so much and I don't think raising the idle is an option with pasoft

interesting you didn't have any problems bolting up the reinforcement plate, I wonder if the 325/330 are different? or maybe the reinforcement plates are different for vert/coup... my plate came from a vert. I'll have to do some more research
There may be something different about your pre-facelift sedan. I believe the M3 vert and coupe reinforcement plates have the same part number.
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Quote:
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i'd rather be gapless with no bulge
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Old 07-03-2014, 06:07 AM   #757
BDUB328I
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There may be something different about your pre-facelift sedan. I believe the M3 vert and coupe reinforcement plates have the same part number.
yea I checked and the vert/coup is the same p/n... I guess something is different with my pre-face

Another strange issue I noticed is that when I was at the gas station filling up with 93 octane the pump continuously kept shutting off as if my tank was full, like every .2 gallons it would stop and I would have to pull the handle again...another thing I need to look into
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Old 07-03-2014, 09:41 AM   #758
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Thanks. Just know I actually did skim their site looking for that before I asked you lol.

Also, I had this email from RP from when I first got the BMW.
Good afternoon Bino,

For your 1999 BMW 323i 2.5L 6 cylinder we recommend the following:

Engine: Royal Purple SAE 5W-30 (part #01530, quart bottle) Or for a significant upgrade in performance and protection we recommend Royal Purple HPS 5W-30 (part #31530, quart bottle); 6.9 quarts.

Auto Trans: Royal Purple Max ATF (part #01320, quart bottle); 4L30-E- 3.2 quarts on a pan drain and fill and 9.3 quarts on a complete dry fill / 5L40-E- 4.2 quarts on a pan drain and fill and 9.5 quarts on a complete dry fill;

Manual Trans: Royal Purple Synchromax (part #01512, quart bottle); 1.25 quarts;

Differentials: Royal Purple Max Gear 75W-90 (part# 01300, quart bottle); 1.5 quarts;
(w/o limited slip)
Differentials: Royal Purple Max Gear 75W-140*(part# 01301, quart bottle); 1.5 quarts;
(w/ limited slip)

Power Steering; Royal Purple Max EZ (part # 01326 12-oz bottle) or Royal Purple Max ATF (part #01320, quart bottle);
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Old 07-03-2014, 01:28 PM   #759
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bino5150 View Post
Thanks. Just know I actually did skim their site looking for that before I asked you lol.

Also, I had this email from RP from when I first got the BMW.
Good afternoon Bino,

For your 1999 BMW 323i 2.5L 6 cylinder we recommend the following:

Engine: Royal Purple SAE 5W-30 (part #01530, quart bottle) Or for a significant upgrade in performance and protection we recommend Royal Purple HPS 5W-30 (part #31530, quart bottle); 6.9 quarts.

Auto Trans: Royal Purple Max ATF (part #01320, quart bottle); 4L30-E- 3.2 quarts on a pan drain and fill and 9.3 quarts on a complete dry fill / 5L40-E- 4.2 quarts on a pan drain and fill and 9.5 quarts on a complete dry fill;

Manual Trans: Royal Purple Synchromax (part #01512, quart bottle); 1.25 quarts;

Differentials: Royal Purple Max Gear 75W-90 (part# 01300, quart bottle); 1.5 quarts;
(w/o limited slip)
Differentials: Royal Purple Max Gear 75W-140*(part# 01301, quart bottle); 1.5 quarts;
(w/ limited slip)

Power Steering; Royal Purple Max EZ (part # 01326 12-oz bottle) or Royal Purple Max ATF (part #01320, quart bottle);
I find Synchromax to be too notchy in the 420G and 250G manual transmissions when cold and causes heavy chatter with the UUC flywheel when warmed up. A fresh fill of OEM MTF-LT-2 did wonders for the various 420Gs for shifting feel.
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Quote:
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i'd rather be gapless with no bulge
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Old 07-03-2014, 02:19 PM   #760
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Interesting reply I got from RP this morning... figured I'd share with you guys, just a little FYI.

Good morning Bino,

We are going to recommend that you make zero fluid changes in your 99 BMW 323i 5 speed manual, until you actually verify that you in fact have an input shaft gear chatter issue following your clutch and flywheel change.

If you do get a gear chatter issue that you want to reduce by the potentially better dampening ability of a thicker fluid, then we are going to recommend that you do NOT mix different Royal Purple fluid types together.

For a thicker than Synchromax fluid that is still appropriate for your gear box, we are going to recommend using Royal Purple XPR 5W-30 (part #01021, quart bottle) in a complete fill of 1.25 quarts.

In the unlikely event that you find an even heavier fluid is needed or desired you can go the next step up with Royal Purple XPR 10W-40 (part #01041, quart bottle).
XPR Racing: http://www.royalpurpleconsumer.com/p...pr-racing-oil/

It is best to use small incremental changes when trying to optimize an oil viscosity, rather than immediately going with a potentially too heavy fluid.

Thanks for choosing Royal Purple and have a great day!

Best Regards,

James Morrissey
Sr. Automotive Technical Support
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