E46 BMW Social Directory E46 FAQ 3-Series Discussion Forums BMW Photo Gallery BMW 3-Series Technical Information E46 Fanatics - The Ultimate BMW Resource BMW Vendors General E46 Forum The Tire Rack's Tire Wheel Forum Forced Induction Forum The Off-Topic The E46 BMW Showroom For Sale, For Trade or Wanting to Buy

Welcome to the E46Fanatics forums. E46Fanatics is the premiere website for BMW 3 series owners around the world with interactive forums, a geographical enthusiast directory, photo galleries, and technical information for BMW enthusiasts.

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us.

Go Back   E46Fanatics > E46 BMW > E46 Convertible

E46 Convertible
The E46 vert forum. Talk about dropping your E46 top here.

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Rating: Thread Rating: 63 votes, 5.00 average. Display Modes
Old 07-10-2014, 10:51 AM   #61
cvx5832
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Walnut Creek, CA
Posts: 2,572
My Ride: 325Ci, 325Cic, C300
^^ This. If the top can't "see" whether the trunk is closed or not, it won't open.

Skip the reader for now. You're already describing symptoms of a torn trunk loom in the accordion.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dtamack View Post
I read all the threads I could find, but still could not find anyone with my particular issue. I think this is the right thread to add to.

I diagnosed and fixed the typical broken wire above the driver's seat, everything else checked out in terms of continuity. (And up to this point, it was so easy I thought I was a genius.) When I re-plugged everything in, the convertible top LED would flash, but neither button did anything. After about 20 seconds, the light would go out and still nothing would happen. Cycling the key does nothing either.

If I unplug the module and re-plug it, the same thing will occur. When I re-plug the module, there are slight noises as if the hydraulics are being pressurized. The top is currently folded into the cover, but it will not latch. The same thing happens when the top was up but not latched.

I did discover that my trunk lid will not unlatch with the key fob or the button by the footwell. Also, the trunk lights do not come on when the trunk is open. I thought I checked all the fuses. Any guidance? Is there a common pass-through for all the trunk wires, including the hydraulics? Do I need to break-down and bother someone with a CVMII code reader?
The accordion is the common pass-through you're thinking of.
__________________


cvx5832 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-11-2014, 08:49 AM   #62
dtamack
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Schnecksville, PA
Posts: 11
My Ride: 2002 330Ci conv
Thanks Taylor192 and cvx5832, I will do a search on the forum, and it sounds like I have some work to do this weekend!

90 degree days in Pennsylvania without the convertible are killing me.

This e46 forum is definitely one of the best sites on the internet. Literally saving me $1000's in repairs!!
__________________
I finally have a real car.
dtamack is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-11-2014, 10:30 AM   #63
taylor192
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: The Best Place on Earth
Posts: 1,922
My Ride: 2003.5 M3
Can someone add this to the first post.

ATTENTION:

Operation of the softtop will be electronically locked out if there are electrical issues with the trunk.
- Check if the button on your key opens the trunk
- Check if the trunk release under the dash opens the trunk
- Check if the trunk open light is on the dash

If any of those checks fail, then a trunk issue may be locking out operation of the softtop, ie pushing the softtop buttons does nothing.

How to solve trunk issues: http://www.e46fanatics.com/forum/sho...ght=trunk+loom
__________________

Last edited by taylor192; 07-16-2014 at 01:17 PM.
taylor192 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-16-2014, 01:01 PM   #64
CVL
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Boston
Posts: 1
My Ride: 2001 330Cic
I just repaired my top using the information here. Excellent help, and thanks to everyone for contributing. My top was stuck just prior to latching. I forced it up by hand and held it open with a block of wood so I could access the wire harness. I had to remove a retaining clip inside the joint above the driver's window with a torx driver, then slice open the nylon sheath with a knife and scissors. The break was obvious, so I spliced a bit of stranded wire that I pirated from an old microwave in my basement, and soldered. I then taped up the splice, taped the nylon sheath, replaced the retaining clip, and it worked! Total time, about 20 minutes. Total time to find the tools, 15 minutes, so the repair itself was 5 minutes! Big time and money savings. Thanks everyone!
CVL is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-02-2014, 08:11 PM   #65
yoziyo
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Palmdale, ca usa
Posts: 1
My Ride: 2002 bmw 330ci conv
problem with my 2002 330 ci latches motor

the latches motor that locks the top on the windshield is almost brand new looking, but the mechanism is broken, do i have to buy the whole motor or the mechanism is sold separately?
thank you

Last edited by yoziyo; 09-02-2014 at 08:14 PM.
yoziyo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-02-2014, 08:26 PM   #66
basuter
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Florida
Posts: 19
My Ride: 02 325ci (332)
I got mine from Alex at Potomac german south in Orlando. They got me the whole unit used for $150. It was an easy install
basuter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-02-2014, 08:27 PM   #67
basuter
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Florida
Posts: 19
My Ride: 02 325ci (332)
his number is 4075153402..tell him bruce told you to call
basuter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-12-2015, 02:26 PM   #68
Archbid
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Marin, CA
Posts: 265
My Ride: 2003 330cic
Just ordered a new harness. There is no continuity to the cowl sensors. I opened the wire at the first bend, and while the wires looked worse for wear, the only compromised wire was one of the motor leads. I suspect the break in the wire is further towards the rear, and I would just as soon just replace with a $130 part.

If anyone has any lessons learned on replacing the harness, would love to hear. I got the cowl open, and the panels in the rear off. I suspect that it will be a pain in the a**, but I also know that I will be able to rule it out afterwards!
Archbid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-12-2015, 03:29 PM   #69
taylor192
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: The Best Place on Earth
Posts: 1,922
My Ride: 2003.5 M3
Quote:
Originally Posted by Archbid View Post
Just ordered a new harness. There is no continuity to the cowl sensors. I opened the wire at the first bend, and while the wires looked worse for wear, the only compromised wire was one of the motor leads. I suspect the break in the wire is further towards the rear, and I would just as soon just replace with a $130 part.

If anyone has any lessons learned on replacing the harness, would love to hear. I got the cowl open, and the panels in the rear off. I suspect that it will be a pain in the a**, but I also know that I will be able to rule it out afterwards!
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showpos...8&postcount=10

Read the hydrualic stickies, you'll need to familiarize yourself with the soft top.
__________________
taylor192 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2015, 05:40 PM   #70
Archbid
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Marin, CA
Posts: 265
My Ride: 2003 330cic
Quote:
Originally Posted by taylor192 View Post
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showpos...8&postcount=10

Read the hydraulic stickies, you'll need to familiarize yourself with the soft top.
So I replaced the harness. Link above was essential.

This is not a task for the faint of heart. Took about 5 hours.

The old harness I removed had broken or compromised wires at every bend. It was trashed. Full continuity now!

It is possible to replace the harness without completely removing the top, and you do not need to remove the actual fabric. I wanted to put the basic steps here. I may have missed steps, and one day I'll do pictures, but I wanted to get this down while it is fresh.

Tools
- needle nose pliers
- pliers
- set of torx bits and driver
- short-reach ratchet/bit driver - this was essential. Many screws are in very confined spaces. My tool: Powerbuilt 940478 1/4-Inch Drive Socket and Bit Driver Mini Ratchet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004QO9DAE..._W-SUub1MHQVGD
- 6' of cord or thin rope
- about 10 small zip ties - the type you use for bike computers
- equal number of long, regular zip ties
- standard screwdrivers, sockets and nut drivers

1.Manually release the roof mechanism. (I'm not going into detail on this or other tasks that have good diys)
2.get acquainted with these three states of the roof:
- Lid up roof in storage,
- Lid up roof up halfway, window down,
- Lid up roof up halfway. and window up
Use a short 18" brace to support the lid, and a 4' brace across the headrest to support the rear window area of the top. I alternated between these positions probably 20 times for routing and access to wires.
3. Remove driver side back seat interior panel and top trim piece
4. Remove front roof cowl. About 12 torx screws across the front, 2 nuts (on either corner, pry off the plastic cap), 2 screws that hold the roof liner (partially hidden), 2 screws on the edge of the face of the cowl under the side rubber trim. Also loosen but don't remove four screws on the back edge of the cowl. These are between the top canvas and the roof insulating liner. You will have to find them by feel. The cowl is slotted, so just loosen.
5. Unplug old harness at CVM in backseat passenger panel and open the vertical channel. Route new harness to match.
6. Unplug old harness just forward of the hinge. Cut zip tie holding old harness at front of hinge. Route the matching pigtail from the new harness and tie down with new zip tie. One down!
7. The next bit is really not fun, so take a breath.
Follow the tophydraulics.com guide to remove the hinge attachment nuts and the roof storage cover latch. On the passenger side, loosen the nuts holding the roof, but don't remove. http://www.tophydraulicsinc.com/e46line23guide.pdf
8. Lift the hinge off of the mounting bolts, then relocate around 5-6" towards the back of the car to get access to the solenoid housing attachment screws.
9. Remove 2 screws that attach solenoid housing to the hinge. You will find them on the front face. This is one of the many times my compact ratchet driver was a godsend.
10. Unclip connector at hinge sensor. It is hidden at the bottom of the huge and you will need a screwdriver to get it done. Pull out old harness pigtail.
9. Pull solenoid away from hinge and remove three connectors. Cut zip ties that hold old harness to the hinge bracket, I recommend pulling new zip ties at the same location to remind you where they were.
10. Pull solenoid connectors and hinge sensor connector leads through the hinge. Route the new harness connectors through the same path. Connect to solenoid and hinge sensor.
11. Loop zip ties loosely around the new harness to the hinge.
12. Take another break.
13. Reattach the pump control solenoid block and move hinge back onto bolts
14. You have two remaining pigtails, and they are much longer. As you remove each, tie cord to the old connector. This will 'remember' the route for the harness. It is a critical approach, as you will be moving the top back and forth, and it is shockingly easy to get lost!
15. At the front of the roof, disconnect the latch switch sensor connector below the motor. Did you remember to tie cord to it? Clip the zip tie at the corner of the roof, and immediately place a new zip tie, and close with a loop big enough to fit a connector through. Make certain you run the cord through this new loop so you remember the orientation.
16. Unscrew the cable clamp
That runs along the edge of the roof facing the driver. Wrap it around your cord and screw back in for safekeeping. Feed the old cable back to the rear of the roof - you may need to pry two metal clips. They aren't reusable. Destroy them. Clip the remaining pig tail at the back of the roof and replace with a new loose loop.
17. Adjust the roof to get access to the rear pillar area. Along the front edge of the pillar is a very small loop of a zip tie. Cut it. Take another small zip tie and feed it through the hole from the rear and back through the other hole.
18. Pull the old harness through the rear pillar. It takes some finesse, and you won't be able to see what you are doing.
19. Feed the old harness pigtail back. You will have to remove a cover plate to feed it though. Keep track of the screws. You may have to move the roof back and forth to get the access you need.
20. Untie the cord from the old harness and attach to the equivalent connector for the long pigtail from the new harness. Feed the new pigtail, using the cord to guide the path. Do not attach or tighten zip ties. Feed all the way to the front motor and attach connectors. Moving backwards, tighten the zip tie, re-attach the cable clamp, and insert the metal clips. Note that there will be cloth tape at every point where the cable is attached. Use the tape as a guide for tying and clamping. Don't forget the small zip tie that is hidden in the rear pillar.
21. Reattach the metal protecting plate.
22. Last pigtail. This goes to the rear window (spade connector) and the back hinge. Move the top
To the closed position and lift the back window area and brace.
23. Unplug the spade connector front the lead next to the rear window. Unplug the connector from the sensor in the rear hinge. Clip the three zip ties that hold the sensor wire.
24. Using a flat screwdriver, push the pins in the center of the plastic fasteners where the sensor wire is attached to the rear roof brace. Don't push too hard or the pin will go out the back
25. Remove the lead. Run your cord
Through the plastic cover and hook
It on a pin to remember the route. There are two cable guides that run along the edge of the inside of the canvas. Pull lead out firmly.
26. At the hinge, pull the old lead through. You will have to remove a cover plate for access. Completely remove lead.
27. Remove entire old harness. Marvel at the various breaks. Throw disdainfully in the corner of the garage.
28. Tie cord to the last lead, route through following cord. Attach sensor and spade connectors.
29. Use three zip ties to attach. Use tape as guide. Route into plastic cover and replace attachment pins.
30. Put cable into guides. This was a pain for me. I used a mirror to get a sense of how they attach (or the selfie camera on your phone)
31. Replace cover plate at hinge.
32. Attach zip ties at hinge base from step 6.
33. Replace retaining nut at front of hinge, then secure hinge attachment nuts at both hinges.
33. Test the harness for continuity

Last edited by Archbid; 02-10-2015 at 12:38 AM. Reason: Typos
Archbid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2015, 11:12 PM   #71
taylor192
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: The Best Place on Earth
Posts: 1,922
My Ride: 2003.5 M3
Awesome job! I think with a friend the job would be far less daunting. Having someone hold a light, a mirror, slightly adjust the top, ... Is so helpful when trying to see all the parts of the top.
__________________
taylor192 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2015, 11:36 PM   #72
Archbid
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Marin, CA
Posts: 265
My Ride: 2003 330cic
Quote:
Originally Posted by taylor192 View Post
Awesome job! I think with a friend the job would be far less daunting. Having someone hold a light, a mirror, slightly adjust the top, ... Is so helpful when trying to see all the parts of the top.
Mostly the issue is moving the roof around! That sucker is heavy.
Archbid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2015, 11:09 PM   #73
Phoenix330ci
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Phoenix
Posts: 667
My Ride: 04 330Ci Convertible
Taylor pointed me back to this thread, so long ago I forget I even posted in it at the beginning. So I'll be tearing into mine, so thank you for the guidance. I looked at mine the other day and decided it was doable without removing the top so glad to have someone confirm. Ordered the parts tonight, so will be doing this in about two weekends from now.

If you missed any pictures then let me know and while I'm in there I'll take a few. I might even do a shortened video. I couldn't seem to find one of them either.
__________________

Last edited by Phoenix330ci; 02-10-2015 at 12:04 AM.
Phoenix330ci is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2015, 12:37 AM   #74
Archbid
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Marin, CA
Posts: 265
My Ride: 2003 330cic
Please take pictures! Mine were junk.

And make sure you get the little zip ties. You need them.
Archbid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2015, 09:43 AM   #75
Phoenix330ci
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Phoenix
Posts: 667
My Ride: 04 330Ci Convertible
I have a bunch of little black zip ties. Ill take pictures as I go and then maybe you can use those to supplement your write up. I read it, sounds easy enough but pictures go a long way.

My stuff is orderd but it will be 2-3 additional days as the dealer has to get the parts from BMW. No big deal as I wont be doing it this weekend.

Any idea on where to get those little screws that hold the side plates on (the plates where the harness and the hydraulics hide behind). The jackball that fixed the ground wire the first time took them out, only replaced one, and zip tied it together. However there was too much bulk behind the plate and I guess it has been rubbing on the frame. Of course ill fix it this time around but I need the screws and realoem doesnt mention them. I was thinking best bet ace hardware??? I can pop one out from the passenger side too have it matched.

Hate people that work on your ride and do things that they figure you would never find out about.
__________________
Phoenix330ci is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2015, 10:38 AM   #76
taylor192
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: The Best Place on Earth
Posts: 1,922
My Ride: 2003.5 M3
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phoenix330ci View Post
Any idea on where to get those little screws that hold the side plates on (the plates where the harness and the hydraulics hide behind). The jackball that fixed the ground wire the first time took them out, only replaced one, and zip tied it together. However there was too much bulk behind the plate and I guess it has been rubbing on the frame. Of course ill fix it this time around but I need the screws and realoem doesnt mention them. I was thinking best bet ace hardware??? I can pop one out from the passenger side too have it matched.
The 4 screws are actually 2 different lengths. If there is a similar plate on the passenger side, then yes, remove them and make a trip the the hardware store.

Those screws are very easy to strip, and to lose. Zipties should work... that's how I held the plate on while I put in the screws, since it is difficult to get all the wires and hydraulics stuffed in correctly, hold the plate, and not lose/strip the little screws.
__________________
taylor192 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2015, 10:45 AM   #77
Archbid
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Marin, CA
Posts: 265
My Ride: 2003 330cic
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phoenix330ci View Post
Any idea on where to get those little screws that hold the side plates on (the plates where the harness and the hydraulics hide behind). The jackball that fixed the ground wire the first time took them out, only replaced one, and zip tied it together. However there was too much bulk behind the plate and I guess it has been rubbing on the frame. Of course ill fix it this time around but I need the screws and realoem doesnt mention them. I was thinking best bet ace hardware??? I can pop one out from the passenger side too have it matched.

Hate people that work on your ride and do things that they figure you would never find out about.
Totally! Pulled my pump today and it was overfilled by an inch. Very frustrating.

Buy a thread gauge. Then you can pull the screws and know exactly what to buy.

The screws are actually two different lengths, so take out enough to see the two sizes.
Archbid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2015, 03:03 PM   #78
mag911
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Bulgaria
Posts: 3
My Ride: e46
Hi guys I'm looking for wiring diagram for VCM module :61 356 938 005 , and
VCM module 61 358 375 444. Thanks!!!
mag911 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2015, 03:10 PM   #79
Phoenix330ci
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Phoenix
Posts: 667
My Ride: 04 330Ci Convertible
Quote:
Originally Posted by mag911 View Post
Hi guys I'm looking for wiring diagram for VCM module :61 356 938 005 , and
VCM module 61 358 375 444. Thanks!!!
Do you mean these from the very first post??

Here's the BMW wiring diagram system; (better than the one above)
http://www.bmw-planet.com/diagrams/release/en/index.htm
__________________
Phoenix330ci is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2015, 03:31 PM   #80
mag911
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Bulgaria
Posts: 3
My Ride: e46
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phoenix330ci View Post
Do you mean these from the very first post??

Here's the BMW wiring diagram system; (better than the one above)
http://www.bmw-planet.com/diagrams/release/en/index.htm
Hi I can open this site something with javascript or something like this, my story is that. I buy my first BMW without roof,VCM module,hydraulic pump. Now I have everything but my BMW it is 2001 year and it is was with old version VCM : 61 356 438 005 with hydraulic pump with only one valve. Now I buy pump with 2 valves and VCM : 61 358 375 444, and my car cable it is not like these for new module, thats why I'm looking for wiring diagram.Thanks sorry for text mistake!
mag911 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Censor is ON





All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:18 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2015, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
(c) 1999 - 2011 performanceIX Inc - privacy policy - terms of use