Angel Eyes Remote Kit Install Diy

Credit given to everyone who developed the concept and fleshed out how to do the remote installation. Here's the original thread started by needanswer that developed the idea: Original Thread. ALL THE CREDIT GOES TO THESE GUYS WHO SPENT THE TIME TO DEVELOP THE KIT.

Here's where I started - you'll need to have a Wheelpower type of harness already being used for your angel eyes/ddes:

PARTS:

One 12Volt 40Amp SPDT relay (5 pin) [$5.63]
One package of 16 guage wire (used about 4ft) [~$1 used - $2.99 package]
One butt connector [$0.12 - assort pack $1.99]
One fuse holder [$1.50]
One 5 Amp fuse [$0.30 - 5 pack for $1.50]
One female spade connector [Free for me]
Lots of zip ties [Free for me]

Total material used material cost - $8.55 [~$13-14 spent]

TOOLS:

Crimping tool
Phillips head screwdriver
Scissors or snips
Pliers

The following posts are my step by step.

STANDARD DISCLAIMER APPLIES - MODIFICATION IS DONE AT YOUR OWN RISK.

Step One:

Crimp female spade connector to one end of the fuse holder.

Step Two

Crimp on a butt connector to the other end of the fuse connector and the lenght of wire to be used for the new trigger.

DO NOT crimp on the T-tap to the other end of the trigger wire at this time. It'll make it hard to feed through the firewall into the interior of the car. Save that for when you get ready to tap later in Step Five.

Step Three,

Pull the relay off of the relay connector on the wiring harness. Then slip the female spade connector end of the new fuse holder into the middle slot (87a on the fuse) on the bottom. It will only fit in one direction - look at the other slots going the same direction to get a better idea of which way to insert it. Once you insert it in, it should click into place.

Step Four

Run the new trigger wire (for tapping into the interior footwell lighting - or other lighting) into the firewall of the car. I ran mine towards the passenger side and used a nub in the firewall to snake the wire into the interior of the car. I also used a zip tie to snug the nub up to make sure it nothing leaked into the interior.

In the third picture - it gives you an idea of what the interior looks like after the glove box is removed. I used a Phillips head to remove the 6 screws that hold it in. 3 along the top, 2 on the sides and 1 on the bottom near the passenger door area.

Step Five

I used a multimeter to check power to the footwell lighting wires. For me it was the one that was red w/ white stripe (or it could be gray stripe - hard to tell by flashlight). I crimped on the T-end on the end of the trigger wire and the socket on the interior wire and plugged them together.

Step Six,

Reinstall the glove box and then I slipped the new relay back into the relay harness. Put the 5Amp fuse into the fuse holder and you're done!!

sweet...great diy. i should have my kit installed this weekend. so many mods..so little time.

In my opinion, this is all overkill. I have a DDE kit on order, so I'll refrain until I verify it works as expected, but you can hook up your DDE's with only two diodes and no relays.

Only disadvantage may be a very, very slight dimming of the DDE's. Something on the order of 5% (probably less), which really isn't visible.

The basic hookup - grab two diodes from RS, with at least 1A/400V capacity. Diodes have two leads and a "band" on one side. Hook the band side leads of two diodes together, and hook this to a 1A fuse and then to the (+) wire of the inverter. Hook the ground of the inverter to ground. Now hook one diode wire to your ECU power (or other switched source) and hook the other diode lead to your interior lighting circuit.

Basic theory: Diodes only let power go one way. If the ECU has power, it will flow through the diode to the inverter, but it can't flow backwards through the other diode into the interior lights circuit. If the interior has power, the opposite will be true. If they both have power, whichever one has higher voltage will power the inverter.

Simple, easy, reliable. Plus, if you believe the "voltage spike" theory, this still works because the diode won't let the spike back through to the ECU or the interior lights. You're actually safer off.

I'll do some pictures and diagrams when I get my DDE's this weekend.

Ahh - I think I see what you're doing. I don't have an engineering background so it's a little over my head, but I kinda follow what you're doing. I'd love to see how it works out, it would be incredibly simple.

For those who don't have a wiring harness with their kit - a typical wiring harness would look something like this (more complicated):

Plugging into the female relay connector slots:

• Slot 30 - two wires (different lengths) crimped together with a female spade connector into the female relay connector - they run off to the ballast/inverters and plug into those positive wires via bullet splices

• Slot 85 - one wire to the ECU trigger wire (T-tap connector)

• Slot 86 - three wires crimped to a female spade connector into the female relay connector - one of those wires then leading to ground the other two (different lengths) lead to the negative wires of the ballasts/inverters and are connected by bullet splices.

• Slot 87 - wire (with fuse holder) connected to the positive battery terminal]

• Slot 87a - reserved for the interior light trigger mod.

You can see the bottom of the female relay connector in the post above referred to as Step Three - that's where all the wires plug into and then the relay sits on top on the other side. I'd estimate the cost to make this type of a wiring harness to be roughly about $25 bucks in materials including the relay (or if you made it from scratch with an SPDT relay - adding in the remote mod would only be about $5 more for another fuse holder and some connectors). For a few more bucks add wire loom and make it a cleaner install.

Here's what the circuit looks like using diodes. I also posted pictures of a DDE ring running with and without the diode in line. Same exposure, f-stop, etc. Can you tell which is which?

Ahh - that diagram is exactly how I thought you had it wired up. I can't tell the difference between the two - there isn't a discernable difference in luminescence.

Since I've got mine all wired up with the relay - do you think it's a good idea (or overkill) to wire in a diode on the ECU tap wire? I'm guessing it won't hurt to do it.

You've got yours wired exactly the same way the Jlevi or WP kit works. I don't see any reason to mess with it if it works. Lots of people out there have proven the relay method to be safe and effective, even if it is overkill.

Originally Posted by Moeser09

For those who don't have a wiring harness with their kit - a typical wiring harness would look something like this

A couple of people asked about the wiring harness thing for their ebay CCFL kits. I sketched a pretty ugly diagram that shoes a wiring harness with integrated remote trigger (requires a SPDT relay).

To install - you can use one of these DIY's (it's the same as installing a Wheelpower kit) in conjunction with mine:

Jake's install DIY

Picture of the ECU trigger wire]

Removing headlights

I think there's another DIY out there that was pretty good too, but I can't remember the link.

excellent DIY

Nice DIY

Does anyone know where I can purchase t-taps like the 3m brand shown in the picture?

Originally Posted by byunts

Does anyone know where I can purchase t-taps like the 3m brand shown in the picture?

Walmart has them or you can find them online. I actually haven't seen them anywhere else like autozone or anything.

If they don't have them there I am at a loss without buying bulk...

-Tyler

Originally Posted by byunts

Does anyone know where I can purchase t-taps like the 3m brand shown in the picture?

I found a pack of 3 at Kragen's for $2.

Thanks Tyler and abigfire. I'll check out wal-mart and an autoparts store tonite.