Ask a professional detailer...

I took your steps to polish my car.
1. Menzerna polish II
2. Menzerna Finishing Touch Glaze
3. FMJ
I then used Pinnacle Wax
Now that I've done this, can I use any final detail spray such as Meguilars or Zaino?
Thank you for all the great information.

Originally Posted by dgtlhybrd®

I have some bad waterspots, it rained just recently and wasnt around to wash it after. now i have an amazing amount of waterspots on my car that almost seem baked in. what would you suggest to remove the spots? i took pictures but you cant see too well the amount of spots or to the degree of how bad it is. The only way i can describe all the marks are like " ghosts of the water drops"
There is also some light scratches on my car from lovely people in my area they arent too deep it seems.

waterspots
you can see in this picture that the waterspots didnt show up in the pic, but you can see how the reflection of the tree is distorted - it almost looks blurry,swirly and a bit bumpy. the white dots all over the car is ash, there is a fire pretty close at the moment.

another shot

one of the scratches on the side of my car

thanks for your time
- Dgtl

Watermarks are caused by mineral deposits in water that etch into the clear coat when the clear coat gets warm (mainly from the sun). Water from sprinklers (or hoses) is the biggest cause of this and the paint only needs a little bit of time in the sun to warm up enough for damage to occur. Rain can cause watermarks too but is less likely because it’s often cloudy when it rains. However if you get a quick sunshine after it rains or you have high levels of acid rain it can happen as well.

Since the watermarks are actually etched into the clear coat it requires a cutting polish. Unless the marks are extremely faint they generally requires a minimum of two coats of polish. Initially we recommend using a medium abrasive polish followed by a light abrasive polish. The first polish is a medium cutting polish that will remove an ultra fine layer of clear coat where the watermarks have etched themselves into. This will also help remove imperfections such as oxidation, fine swirls and light scratches. A medium cutting polish can leave a slight haze behind so we always recommend using a lighter cutting polish after, also known as a finishing polish. These polishes use extremely fine abrasives that will eliminate any haze and make sure the surface is nice and glossy. This two-step process will allow more light to pass through the clear coat so you get a deep reflection from your paint. These steps may sound a little intimidating but it’s really very easy to do and yields some pretty amazing results. Here are the products we recommend you use to permanently remove the watermarks.

By Hand (Recommended Lake Country Hand Applicator Kit)
Poorboy’s World SSR 2.5
Poorboy’s World SSR 1.0

Using a Buffer (Recommend Porter Cable 7424)
Poorboy’s World SSR 2.5 – orange cutting pad
Poorboy’s World SSR 1.0 – white polishing pad
or
Menzerna Intensive Polish - orange cutting pad
Menzerna Final Polish II – white polishing pad

To prevent watermarks and other imperfections from happening (aside from the obvious of avoiding places with sprinklers, parking inside, etc.) is to layer sealants on your clear coat. Sealants are like waxes but more durable and protect your paint better. Is this method fool proof? Certainly not, but its better than waxing or doing nothing. Additionally if you clay and polish the surface it will be smoother which has two main benefits: 1.) A smoother surface will help moisture roll off easier and form finer beads 2.) The sealant will adhere to the clear coat better. I also personally like to apply at least two coats of sealant to my vehicles for extra strong protection and shine.

In summary I would get the Porter Cable 7424 if you don't already have it and either one of those two step polishes. The PC 7424 is an amazing tool that is super easy and safe to use. If you want more information about how to best use the PC 7424 please read our "How To" section or ask me for some more information. Hope this all helped and we look forward to hearing from you.

Originally Posted by dewo

I took your steps to polish my car.
1. Menzerna polish II
2. Menzerna Finishing Touch Glaze
3. FMJ
I then used Pinnacle Wax
Now that I've done this, can I use any final detail spray such as Meguilars or Zaino?
Thank you for all the great information.

Yes you can use those products. The zaino ones tend to work best with zaino products from what users tell me. You can also just wash and add another quick coat of Pinnacle to the surface. My favorite quick detailer is the Menzerna High Gloss Acrylic Shield that tends to bond well to the surface. Its basically like a liquid fine version of the FMJ that adds a lot more "pop" to the paint.

Greg @ Detailed Image

WOW. I knew Detailing was a long process but i never thought it'd get this complex with clays, polishes sealants whatever. Im the kind of guy who washes, dries and spray details and thats it, done, but have never done such complex detailing like this and to be honest, i dont have the time to be doing all of this. Do all these steps have to be done right afte the other? I guess a job like this will take a good day right? Is there car spa's? Can you get this done with someone else? How much would a detailing job like this cost? The full package?

The whole process can take up the better part of the day but IMO its so worth it when the paint looks stunning again. However if you just wash/dry, use the SSR 2.5 and SSR 1.0 and seal the paint you should be able to do that very thoroughly in less than 5 hours. Its really rather easy and its fun to learn how to take care of these problems as they occur. The maintenance would just be wash/dry and seal the paint which takes me about 1.5 hours. If you just want a spray on product the Menzerna High Gloss Acrylic Shield is great. Its basically a liquid fine version of the durable Menzerna FMJ. It adds a nice shine to the paint and protection as well.

There are places that can do this kind of detail work for you however the price and most importantly the quality vary tremendously. For wash/dry, two coats of polish and a coat of sealant you can expect to pay anywhere from $100 - $350+. If the offer is $100 its most likely too good to be true, I would expect to pay somewhere in the middle.

Greg @ Detailed Image

Thanks for the advice Greg! You'll be seeing my order in your system in about a week

Thank you, we look forward to getting you some great products and helping you get your vehicle looking its best.

Greg @ Detailed Image

61 pages of reading..wao...spent like 3 hours reading all that..

I have a Titanium Silver Sedan...just repainted...wat's my options?

Was thinking like
1. Clay - Any offers?
2. Paint Cleaner - Still have some Meguiars Paint Cleaner. Is this ok?
3. Klasse AIO - Any offers?
4. Carnauba - Still have some Meguiars Carnauba Wax. Is this ok?

Are these steps good?

um....it depends. how long ago was it painted? Thats key. If it was JUST painted you should hold off for a while (month to two months) so the paint can cure.

Just keep it clean, no need for all that stuff yet.

I received my PC from Detailed Image yesterday. Thanks Greg and George for your service and quick response to my messages.

This is really a lot of work, and I can appreciate what an experienced detailer might charge for swirl removal, glaze, and sealant. It would have been impossible without the PC.

My question is how long should I wait between FMJ coats? Can I just begin again as soon as I have finished a coat? I see you recommend a couple of coats, or should I consider three coats, maybe? (This is the easy part, the swirl removal is what really takes time.)

Do you recommend carnuba or other "wax" after the sealant, or is it good to go? The car looks great already, with one coat of sealant.

Originally Posted by beem

61 pages of reading..wao...spent like 3 hours reading all that..

I have a Titanium Silver Sedan...just repainted...wat's my options?

Was thinking like
1. Clay - Any offers?
2. Paint Cleaner - Still have some Meguiars Paint Cleaner. Is this ok?
3. Klasse AIO - Any offers?
4. Carnauba - Still have some Meguiars Carnauba Wax. Is this ok?

Are these steps good?

For clay bar I like the ClearKote Kit we have available w/ the 200g bar and Quick Shine Clay Lube.

You certainly can finish up using the Meg's stuff you have already. To be honest, Klasse AIO is a Paint Cleaner w/ Protection so there is no point in doing both the Meg's Paint Cleaner and the Klasse AIO. Klasse will leave behind a layer of protection that will last 3 - 4 months and without knowing about the Meg's one you have I can't give you any feedback on that.

I'd suggest finishing up what you have and when you are ready upgrade to some better products to further enhance your detail.

Originally Posted by Lobo

I received my PC from Detailed Image yesterday. Thanks Greg and George for your service and quick response to my messages.

This is really a lot of work, and I can appreciate what an experienced detailer might charge for swirl removal, glaze, and sealant. It would have been impossible without the PC.

My question is how long should I wait between FMJ coats? Can I just begin again as soon as I have finished a coat? I see you recommend a couple of coats, or should I consider three coats, maybe? (This is the easy part, the swirl removal is what really takes time.)

Do you recommend carnuba or other "wax" after the sealant, or is it good to go? The car looks great already, with one coat of sealant.

Thanks for the positive feedback. If you are trying to apply multiple coats of FMJ I would suggest waiting at least 12 - 24 hrs between coats for the 2nd coat to bond properly. Same goes for the 3rd.

Adding a wax over FMJ can add additional depth and gloss and give it a warmer glow rather than a reflective mirror look from FMJ. It really is preference as far as what you like best. I personally like the look of a natural carnauba wax but that is my own personal preference.

Glad to hear you got good results. Let us know if there is anything else we can help you with.

Sincerely,

George @ Detailed Image

Um, are you giving him permission to do that stuff.

Come on now. Its a def no...he just repainted.

Originally Posted by deafboy

Um, are you giving him permission to do that stuff.

Come on now. Its a def no...he just repainted.

Over looked that... thanks...

Beem...

You can wash and dry, claybar, polish and glaze. Call the place who did the work to find out how long it takes to for the paint to cure. Typically you'll have to wait 90 - 120 days. Do not seal or wax your car until the paint has properly cured.

George @ Detailed Image

thanks for the info!

Greg,

Super quick question I need a quick reply to..

I puchased my car about 6 weeks ago and since owning it have done this, in this order at different intervals:

Zymol Carbon
Zymol cleaner wax
Poorboy's Sealant (1st time)
Poorboy's Wax (the bubblegum stuff we got from you)
Poorboy's Sealant (2nd time)

The last two I did back to back, the evening I did the wax then the morning I did the sealant. That was about 2 weeks ago.

NOW, my wedding is this saturday and we're driving off into the sunset in my 330i and I want it to sparkle. I don't have a lot of money and I have no time to order any special products.

My question is of the four choices I have which should I use to get the best shine before the wedding. I DO have time to do one coat of something tonight and one coat of something tomorrow morning. The poorboys wax then the sealant you think? Or the zymol carbon? Just the sealant and nevermind the wax? How much is too much?

Also, because rehersal dinner is friday night I can't do any waxing/cleaning that night, I need a quick spit shine sunday morning (cause Baltimore drops a lot of soot on my car even just sitting around). My brother and I were going to give it a once over with zymol detailer.

Thanks!

P.S. That poorboy's wax was harder to get off than I expected. Also, while I was waxing I watched a fly land on the hazed wax, take off and die almost immediately. NOW THAT'S STRONG STUFF! LOL

THANKS!

These pics were taken after I did the poorboys wax on a friday night, then the sealant sat morning. Then I took her for a ride and took these pics:

EDIT: I do have LAMIN-X on the front in case people are wondering. Self-installed.


(my fav- look at those parking lines reflect!)

For a deeper shine I would just add more coats of the wax and nothing else. This won't last for months but it will look stunning for after the wedding. When I use the Poorboy's Wax I try to make sure that I apply it nice and thin (by lightly working the pad in a circle in the jar). I also remove it after I complete 1 - 3 panels. Then use the quick detailer you mentioned to clean it up on Sunday and it should be fantastic.

Congratulations on the wedding!

Greg @ Detailed Image

Greg,
I just went ahead and used the sealant, I loved how easy it was to get on and off and the slipery extreme shine it had left in the past. I just finished a coat. Maybe I'll do one more again tomorrow but doubtful, the car just looks great.

Thanks,
HJS

No problem I'm glad to hear its looking great. Enjoy your beatiful looking vehicle and the wedding!

Greg @ Detailed Image

im going to do an end of the year detail . clay , abbrassive polish, finishing polish , glaze , sealeant , wax. thats the correct step right? what do you know about collinite Liquid Insulator Wax (No. 845). my boy has that and it looks amazing. also should i use this insted of a sealeant. i want the highest shine and the most protectant

Originally Posted by wiggy123

im going to do an end of the year detail . clay , abbrassive polish, finishing polish , glaze , sealeant , wax. thats the correct step right? what do you know about collinite Liquid Insulator Wax (No. 845). my boy has that and it looks amazing. also should i use this insted of a sealeant. i want the highest shine and the most protectant

wiggy123,

You have the process down correctly.

I haven't personally used Collinite IW but I heard it is a good product, many people do like it. I honestly cannot comment on the durability but maybe some of the people on here that have used it can comment.

From doing a quick search it seems to be called a wax but has a lot of characteristics of a sealant: durability + reflective mirror look, rather than a carnauba wax which is typically low durability + "wet" look / hard candy look and deeper gloss and reflections.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Sincerely,

George @ Detailed Image