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DIY: Do It Yourself
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Old 03-10-2007, 04:29 AM   #1
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: San Diego
Posts: 54
My Ride: 2000 323i
Euro-Spec CSL Trunk Install DIY

Keywords: CSL, Trunk, Euro-Spec, Install, DIY, fitment, align, adjust, replica, fiber, glass, fiberglass, carbon, pre-facelift, boot, lid

How's it going everyone. I'm not personally a big poster on this thread but I love to lurk around and read what everyone's been doing. I've had saved thousands of dollars on labor and install fees, due mostly to this site. So I decided it was time to give back to the fanatics.

This is my first attempt at a DIY and my first trunk install so hopefully the solutions I present will help some of you in the same position.

Mart and Paul at really came through with a quality product. As we all know aftermarket parts aren't always going to fit 100% like OEM, with that in mind the guys at Euro-Spec are right around that 98% mark.

I recently installed my CSL Fiberglass trunk on my 2000 323i pre-facelift sedan. I was planning on just taking it to the shop and having them do the whole thing since they were painting my whole car anyway. I've always been an avid DIY'er so I decided to tackle this one myself. There were only a few fitment issues that I had come across, but nothing a trusty dremel couldn't fix!!

To answer any of the obvious questions first.

1) No I don't know if this will work the same for a coupe lid. (pretty sure though. just check your trunk with the pics in the DIY)

2) No I don't know if this will work for facelift coupes or sedans. (pretty sure though. just check your trunk with the pics in the DIY)

3) Yes I am in the military and Yes that is a real gas mask. (you'll see.)

Any other questions or comments please feel free to give feedback. If there is anything that I might have left out then please let me know. Again this is my first trunk install and DIY so don't rip me to shreads too quick.

I am available in the San Diego area for any one on one help, and in the LA area on a special case by case basis.



Car used: 2000 323i - Sienna Red

Estimated time to complete: 1-2 hours depending on skills


The following DIY is for informational and resource purposes only. I will NOT be held liable for any injuries to you or persons around you while following these instructions. I also will NOT be held liable for any f*** ups that occur as a result of following or mis-following these instructions. If you feel you are not capable of doing these modifications by yourself, please have your local body shop make these modifications for you. With that being said I hope that this will help those of you that want to save a little bit of money by doing this yourself instead of your body shop.



*Euro-Spec Fiberglass CSL Trunk Sedan Install DIY

The CSL Trunk from Euro-Spec needs a few adjustments that can be done yourself, instead of having to pay a body shop to do it. The following is a DIY to get all of the little kinks and fitment issues out of the way before you bring it to the shop to get prep and paint. Most of the fitment issues for handles, lights, locks, and other parts are mostly due to the fact that Fiberglass is thicker than sheet metal.

Tools Needed:

1 Dremel (or other rotary cutting tool)
2 Drill bit or cutting bit
3 Cutting wheels (dremel)
4 Sanding wheels (dremel)
5 Straight grinding bit
6 Angle grinding bit
7 Sand paper (I used 60 grit)
8 Sanding Block (Lowes or Home Depot)
9 Respirator or face mask (FG is NOT good to breathe in)
10 Safety glasses or goggles

Tools Recommended:

11 Flex shaft for Dremel (makes things a little easier)
12 Rag to wipe away FG dust
13 Vacuum to suck as much dust as possible while cutting

I'm in the military so I happen to have my Gas Mask around and used that. The face mask doesn't keep everything out.

Trunk Removal

This DIY's main focus is adjusting your CSL trunk, so I will not go into detail with pictures on how to de-trim your trunk. Here are a few quick steps.

1 Remove trunk tool box
2 Remove trunk liner
3 Unplug trunk light connectors
4 Unplug trunk latch connector
5 Unplug trunk handle connector
6 Unplug trunk lock connector
7 Remove trunk lid lights
8 Remove trunk handle
9 Remove trunk latch
10 Remove trunk lock
11 Remove rubber grommet for wires and feed wire bundle through hole (careful not to snag connectors)
12 Remove BOTTOM Torx bolts
13 Loosen TOP torx bolts
14 Slid trunk lid up and off of mounts.

Install is the reverse.



I recommend that you conduct steps 1 - 7 off the car to minimize fiberglass dust on car and in trunk.

Fiber glass can be VERY irritating on the skin. Please wear proper clothing and safety equipment when working with fiber glass or carbon fiber i.e. long sleeve shirt, gloves, goggles, face mask, etc . . .

**REMEMBER** make sure you have a way of opening your trunk either manually with key, access to latch rod or by electric trunk handle. Valet key does NOT work on trunk!! There is a step where you disconnect your battery so make sure you don't lock your keys in the trunk if you don't have fold down seats!! I don't have a remote release switch to my trunk so to be safe I just left my right trunk lid light off during this whole process so I had access to the lock and latch rod.

1. Trunk Light Fitment: My trunk lights were not lining up straight with the edges of the trunk so I had to sand the sides down a little bit. The original trunk line were where the yellow lines are. I used the Sanding Block and the 60 grit paper. It's trial and error. Sand, Fit, Sand, Fit, etc . . .

I don't have pictures of before but as you can see the lights now line up really well with the lines of the trunk

2. Trunk Light Fitment 2. I also had to cut part of the trunk away to fit the left trunk light. I used the dremel cutting wheel. The yellow area is where the FG use to be. My trunk lights are Ebay lights so I'm not sure if you need to do this for the stock.

3. Trunk Lock. The FG is too thick where the trunk lock is installed at. I used a flat sanding wheel to thin out the FG where the lock installs at. I also had to enlarge the Lock opening on the outside using the straight grinding bit. I used the angle bit to make the rubber grommet fit better (more detail in step 9). I installed the sandpaper wheel upside down so the sand was facing the Dremel. I then put the wheel in the hole and used it to sand down the back side of the fiber glass all the way around the opening. I went through approx 10-15 sanding wheels. They are really crappy paper circles and "burn-out" quick. You might want to stack up 2 together to make them a little stiffer.

If the mounting holes on the lock don't line up, then you have to cut away apart of this notch so that it will turn all the way.

4. Trunk Latch Rod. One thing I noticed was there was a FG wall where the plastic latch rod was supposed to pass through. Not a problem, a little bit of attention with the drill bit and straight grinder fixed that right up

5. Trunk Latch Mount. Two of the holes where the latch mounts up to, were off. The one on the left was fine. The right was just a little off so I just enlarged it. The bottom one was a little high so I had to drill a new hole.

Right Hole

Bottom Hole

6. Trunk Handle Mount The square holes in yellow had to be enlarged a little bit to accept the square plastic screw "anchors." The hole in Red had to be enlarged using the straight grinding bit or drill bit. This is where a circle tab fit. I think it was to help in aligning the handle. For the square holes I used my cutting wheel bit (not the wheel but only the bit) wrapped in some sandpaper to fit inside the hole. It probably would have been best to use a small flat file, but I didn't have one, so this worked fine.

I haven't picked up my trunk roundel or my License Plate mounts but I'm pretty sure they might have to be enlarged also.

7. Rubber Trunk Bump Stops The rubber Bump Stops that are on the left and right sides of the trunk latch are just big rubber screws. On the CSL trunk the right hole for the bump stop was not large enough in the little "keyhole" slot. I just used the straight grinder bit to enlarge it.

8. Installing and aligning trunk: There are 8 bolts used when aligning the trunk. 4 torx on the lid and 4 hex on the trunk frame. Put torx bolts in the top mount holes but don't thread them down all the way. Lift trunk and slide onto trunk mounts. Thread bottom torx bolts through mount holes and into trunk, and tighten down about 85%. Run the existing wire bundle from the trunk, in between the weather stripping and the back window to ensure that you don't damage the wires when opening and closing.


Notice how I removed the left trunk shock. I removed it because the trunk is a lot lighter than the stock and with both shocks on it opens very fast. You have to use a LOT more force in closing with both shocks on. With one shock you have to use a little bit more force than the stock trunk when closing but not enough to notice. If your trunk sits high on one side also try removing one shock as this might help remedy that problem. To remove them use a flat tip screwdriver to pry up the clips on the tops and bottoms of the shocks and pull off.

Aligning the trunk can be done by the torx bolts on the lid and by the hex bolts on the frame.

Aligning the trunk is just trial and error. The bottom hex bolts allow you to move the trunk up and down vertically, tilt it back and forth and slide forward and back. The torx bolts allow only forward, backward, left and right alignment. It took me about 6 fitments to get everything right. Just close, check alignment, open, loosen bolts and adjust, tighten again, close, check alignment . . . . Once you have everything done we'll be running the wire bundle back into the trunk and hooking everything back up.

9. Trunk Light Connectors and grommet. The next thing I had to do was enlarge the hole where the wires enter the trunk. I also had to remove the trunk light connectors to fit through the hole. The last thing I had to do was angle the cut of the FG so that the rubber grommet will fit snug.


Unclip white tabs on trunk light connector

Remove white cover of connector

Use a small screwdriver to push pins out
(Careful not to break them)
. I would suggest
marking them with tape

Connector Disconnected

After your done removing the connectors tape all of the loose connectors to the wire bundle so nothing gets snagged. Feed the bundle through the hole and position connectors where they go. Don't forget to re-assemble the trunk light connectors.
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