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Go Back   E46Fanatics > Tuning & Tech > DIY: Do It Yourself

DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 02-10-2007, 09:53 PM   #21
Bozz
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CPS replace

Did mine today. Literally took about 15 minutes. Of note, the aftermarket (bought from Pelican auto online) was a little different than the OEM. I had difficulty placing it unless I put the O-ring over it then placed the unit into the head. Otherwise it's an easy process. Bozz
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Old 02-22-2007, 10:39 PM   #22
Yellowmann
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Great info... thanks for sharing.
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Old 02-23-2007, 08:17 PM   #23
Sleepr Cl
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just got done....nothing like 15 min...but i got it done....thanks for the detailed info...

what do i do to reset the ses?
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Old 04-04-2007, 12:37 PM   #24
ky-mike
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If the engine is running OK, how long am I safe driving before replacing the sensor? I assume that a total failure will just make the car quite running versus doing any major damage.
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Old 04-05-2007, 06:23 AM   #25
silverarrow330
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ky-mike View Post
If the engine is running OK, how long am I safe driving before replacing the sensor? I assume that a total failure will just make the car quite running versus doing any major damage.
Do not replace the sensor unless it is needed . Eventually, one day it may throw a code, but there is a way to check that too. Do not worry, it will not do any damage .
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Old 04-07-2007, 04:49 PM   #26
aladin
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P0340 Camshaft position sensor circuit malfunction

Quote:
Originally Posted by Canuck330i View Post
Great DIY!

Did this a few days ago. Couple things to add:

1. To loosen the VANOS solenoid, use a rubber strap wrench instead of an adjustable or open end wrench. I found that a metal wrench would press on the oil pressure line to the VANOS unit while trying to undo the VANOS solenoid.

2. Be careful with the PCV vent tube if you're going to remove for more clearance. It's quite fragile, seems to corrode from the inside out (corrosive blow-by gases?). Mine broke clean off and I know I'm going to have a ***** of a time replacing it. Taped it up with self sealing silicone tape for now.
I am nbew to this board and I am hoping someone can help. I got a couple of codes on my 323i 2 weeks ago (P1397 and P0340). I replaced the exhaust CPS exhaust side a week ago, but now the P0340 is back a few days later. Does this mean I have to replace the intake side as well? While replacing the sensor, I lost the original bolt and used a different one with same thread. Would this cause a problem? Thanks
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Old 04-21-2007, 04:55 PM   #27
garodgers
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Code

which code where you getting?
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Old 08-10-2007, 05:35 AM   #28
mnice78
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Hello,
I see that the diy in this thread is for p0430 for the intake camshafet sensor. I'm getting p0344 and after a search it looks like it is the same part, can someone please confirm?
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Old 08-11-2007, 05:24 PM   #29
vishal76
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I feel really stupid and embarassed. After getting through steps 1-5, I couldn't even locate the VANOS. Too afraid of pulling out the wrong thing, I put everything back together. My car is a 2002 330xi (E46). I am hoping someone can offer assistance or maybe just empathize with me.

The Rookie
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Old 08-19-2007, 12:22 AM   #30
Peas
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Thanks much for the step-by-step details and the pictures. They helped alot! I was able to do this in a couple hours after getting the right tools. Some mistakes I made which others might learn from:

1. Initially I bought a set of open-ended wrenches off Ebay. The 32mm size didn't fit well (just a tad to big) and started to strip the Vanos bolt. I then bought an adjustable wrench from Lowes (10" handle) for a mere $12 and it worked great. 32mm is just a hair over 1.25", so any adjustable wrench over 1.25" will do. Don't get one too big or it might have trouble fitting into that tight area.

2. Remove the oil pressure line. It's very easy to take off with most any good wrench. It's the one under the Vanos that gets in the way of the wrench. It leaks a tiny bit of oil so put a towel underneath. Also be watchful of the metal washer (don't let it fall!).

3. The 5mm bolt holding the camshaft sensor is on quite tight and takes alot of turns to remove. While removing it, the allen wrench slipped and fell into the deep crevices. I could see it, but as I tried to fish it out, it fell in further and disappeared I was worried, but the engine is running fine so I'm hoping it'll eventually fall out somewhere without doing any damage. Moral of the story: Keep a tight grip on that allen wrench!

I didn't add any loctite to the bolt. It went in as snugly as it came out (i.e. didn't move very freely).

Remove the entire airbox, not just the cover over the air filter. It's super easy and makes the work so much faster.

Last edited by Peas; 08-19-2007 at 12:29 AM.
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Old 09-01-2007, 08:37 PM   #31
mnice78
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i finished this install today, pretty straightforward, but it took me 1.5 hours. i was struggling with the cps bolt removal with the limited space available.

First let me say great write up and great pics, couldnt have done it without this thread.
Somethings that helped me:
1. a new cps bolt is pre-threaded with loctite and it costs .31 (part # 13627545338
2. removing the entire airbox, not just the top allowed me far better access to reach and grab the new sensor while threading it through the engine compartment.
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Old 09-21-2007, 01:52 AM   #32
bluey
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Very helpful DIY, just swapped out mine tonight. Since I had an aftermarket intake, the replacement only took about 30 minutes or so.

One thing that I took out was the vent hose to ease entry to the sensor bolt, BUT if you do opt to do that make sure that you don't bend that hose too much or else it'll crack and break ... much like in my case. I had to duct tape it together. I hope that vent hose is not a critical system.
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Old 01-02-2008, 05:27 PM   #33
BMW808
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Hey guys you just saved me $400 bucks!!! seriously i was going to go to bmw here in hawaii... and they asked $600 plus tax just to fix this sensor, telling me that its a very hard spot to get into. Some bull sh*t and crap... so what i really wanted to say was thank you!!! =) KEEP UP THE GREAT WORK!!!!!
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Old 01-13-2008, 08:44 PM   #34
TXAggie91
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From when the service light indicates the cam sensor needs replacing, how much driving is permissable until you can get around to installing a new one? In a DIY job like this, I could see it taking a few days (3-5) to get the part in, and then a weekend to do the job. Does it still hurt to drive the car several days?

Thanks.
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Old 01-13-2008, 08:58 PM   #35
celluloidheros
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hello, i did mine today. the entire job took about 1 hour total with 20 min of prep work getting the tools and parts ready. i drove my car around for a month with the light on. is you car acting sluggish when you take off ? Do you have a 32 mm wrench ? i bought one for the VANOS but an adjustable would have worked just as well. i would advise that ypou take out the oil filter but let the oil drain down in as you pull it up, If you just pull the filter out it has about a cup of oil in it. I guess you can throw it ouit and refill.

The hardest part is routing the sensor wire back down to the connection point, i tried tying a string to the old sensor and then pulling the new one in, i should have used a stiff wire. anyway, i got all done and drove the car but my SES light did not go off. It is not clear whether it should go off on it's own or i need to go to autozone and have it reset.

does anyone have experience here ? Does it go away by itself or do i need a reset. I did forget to plug in the VANOS plug and i started the car once but did not drive it until i remembered to plug it back in, i assume that i will have a code for this in memory ?

Thanks, CH
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Old 01-19-2008, 01:05 PM   #36
ICEWATER66
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great thread for changing intake cam sensor. When I took the pcv vent tube out it broke. Can anybody tell me where I cann get one besides the dealer. I have searched but don't see it anywhere on the web. Thanks again.
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Old 01-21-2008, 03:05 PM   #37
sdsbama
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dude, I replaced the intake position sensor by myself thanks to this thread. I had an independent garage replace the exhaust twice and it was still acting up. After the 2nd replacement the autozone computer finally came back with the intake side and so I decided to do it myself since I had spent $100 bucks in labor to have the exhaust side done twice. After I replaced it I had to go to autozone and have them reset the ses light for me and it hasnt come back on since and the idle and throttle are perfect now!! thanks so much folks. just wish i would of found the exhaust side earlier and done that job myself and saved a little money on it as well.
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Old 03-08-2008, 04:35 AM   #38
henkiee
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Great DIY:

My experience:

-oil filter does not need to be opened (use a 5 mm hex L-wrenche to loose sensor)
-air filter, only remove the top-cover
-keep the old wiring in place, stuff the new sensor wire down the
motor compartment, this is the hardest thing to do, use a long small
stick to guide the wire down the engine, stick with your right arm
under the air intake and catch the wire and connect the sensor

when the engine starts, engine power should be back
as normal, fuel consumption will decrease again, engine wont stall anymore

throw a party
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Old 03-08-2008, 07:58 PM   #39
Pancho328i
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Do you think the the 32mm wrench I purchased for replacing the fan clutch will fit the vanos solenoid?

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Old 03-09-2008, 04:45 PM   #40
henkiee
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yeah i used a 32 mm wrench too, and adjusted the size of the wrench to the size of the vanos.
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