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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need! |
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#1 |
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www.thielstudios.com
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Rehosting all my dead linked pictures. Mods, feel free to merge the threads.
Original thread: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=288495 ************************************************************ **** Not the most challenging of installs, but it did have its complications. It's pretty straight forward, just relocating the functions/switches of the detector. I'll be short but sweet. Basically, I found the concealed display offered by V1 as just a stupid selling factor. To me, the best place to get a look at your radar display is up by the rear view mirror (where the V1 is traditionally located) or the gauge cluster... to minimize how far you take you eyes of the road. To me, having the radar hidden was the point of the concealed display, not where you look. So I decided to relocate my radar to the back of the car, for a few reasons. 1.) If I decide to leave my windows down when running errands, I don't have to worry about somebody reaching in and swiping my radar detector 2.) If a cop sees my radar detector and pulls me over for speeding, he is less likely to give me just a 'warning' 3.) I don't want my driving view cluttered with more then it needs so with this, I relocated the detector to the rear of the car. This being said, radar waves travel through most materials (glass, flesh, leather) with the exception of metal. So by mounting my radar detector in the rear window, I have not lost my ability to trace radar waves. Laser is different, but when that goes off it's pretty much too late anyways. Given the pros I stated above, the reduced ability to detect laser from the front has been reduced (however rear laser detection has been increased) Research on a radar detector forum has tested this location and gave similar results in comparing rear and front mount. This being said, I move on. first thing... this is a list of the things I did for the install: 1.) Installed detector at the rear window, passenger side center 2.) Hardwire into my accessory power 3.) Relocated the Buzzer/speaker to the front of the car 4.) Relocated the volume control to the front of the car 5.) Hardwired a mute function into my steering wheel buttons 6.) Replaced my OEM rearview mirror with a 2 way mirror 6.) Located the concealed display behind my rear view mirror I still have a couple things to do, but Ill post those updates later when 100% complete. a.) I am replacing my frequency band surface mount LED's with different colors for easier identification. From the factory all the LED's are red. (i.e. Laser = blue led, X-band = green, orange, yellow..etc.) b.) Fabricating a concealed mount at the rear window making it difficult to tell the radar is in the rear window, even when looking at it. The suction cups on the rear window would be a dead giveaway. And the install. Dismantled the guts of my V1 1.8 this is the buzzer/speaker that actually makes the noise, that's located at the front of the car, inside my rearview mirror. this is the 3rd brake light where I ran all the wires to above my headliner. Instead of running several wires, i took a 10' printercable, cut the ends off it then soldered a less cumbersome connection on the end. I didn't want to solder things directly to the V1, because I still wanted it to be removable if I need to take it out for whatever reason. here's the printer cable I used to run 11 wires from front to back above the headliner, the pin connector already soldered. Like I stated, I did this because it was cleaner then running 11 individual wires and making a mess with connectors etc. the buzzer/speaker I replaced with a DC plug adapter. By putting the DC plug in I ran a couple wires to the front at the rearview mirror so my sound would be up front, not in back with the detector. Also this allowed me to plug/unplug that wire making the detector still removable. I also wanted to incorporate the mute function so I tapped into the concealed display mute wire (it's a yellow wire that goes into the phone jack plug). By putting momentary switch (other leg of the switch is ground (-)) it enables the mute. So I made a momentary switch behind one of my inactive steering wheel buttons. This now mutes my V1 without removing my hands from the wheel. I forgot to take a picture of the momentary switch, it's pretty sweet though. I ripped apart an old keyboard and fabricated it with that. The switch was placed here on the silicon board, beneath the R/T button located on the left hand side of my steering wheel. When I push that button, it closes the circuit to the momentary switch, then muting the v1. since my OEM mirror doesnt allow any light through it, I had to replace it with a 2-way mirror. For this I went to Car Quest and purchased a generic replacement SIDE-VIEW mirror for a pick-up truck. Side view mirrors are usually 2 way mirrors to prevent glare. When a light source is placed behind the mirror, it can be seen. In this case...the v1 concealed display. After obtaining the 2 way mirror, I cut it to the same shape as my original using the OEM glass as a template. Here's what the display looks like through the glass/mirror. Again, the appearance will change when I change the LED's and figure out how to re-work the arrow indicator system. The volume control is also located inside my rearview mirror, the control knob sticks out the of the mirror housing so I can still adjust the volume if need be. I'll show exactly how the rear detector is located and the overall finished look when I finish making the mold/fabrication process. But as a general install, this was how it was hardwired and relocated. **This was the previous setup (currently being changed, because I can)** I cut a piece of aluminum up and made a mount that tied into my rear passenger head rest. I decided to locate it here for a couple reasons. 1.) it keeps the radar detector low, which will help for Laser, since cops tend to shoot lower on the vehicle (just trying to increase my odds here) 2.) Keeps me physically out of the way of it, since laser cant travel through human flesh Powder coated the bracket wrinkle black I then made a mold out of Foam. This mold will be used to make the housing to help disguise the V1: Made the housing out of CF and here it shows the fitment: Here are some of the mounting pictures, pretty self explanatory. Though, I have decided to make some revisions since my interior is torn apart. The V1 and Display locations will be changed. Enjoy.
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#2 |
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///PIITB
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Albertville, Alabama Status: Motorboating
Posts: 27,499
My Ride: Low Life Marie
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Nice post
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#3 |
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Registered User
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Always loved the custom work you did to your car, keep it up..
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#4 |
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Registered User
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I am in awe of your skills. Great job. What a way to bond with your vehicle.
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#5 |
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Formerly Snox400
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Nice work!
One question for you, since you have already dismantled the unit...Do you see any way that one could seperate the directional sensing units, say have the front detector mounted in front and the rear in the same manner? Im guessing its not possible, but any insight would be appreciated |
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#6 | |
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www.thielstudios.com
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Quote:
When i first took it apart, i was hoping i could do that. Unfortunately, all the sensors/lenses are molded into a diecast aluminum housing (you can see it in the 2nd picture, aluminum color) So, no i couldn't sepearate the points, trust me...i would have if it were easier.
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#7 |
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Registered User
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wow, i'm speechless. I'm new on this board and every time I see another one of your mod threads I become more and more impressed.
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#8 |
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Registered User
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lol...so if someone wanted to sit on the rear passenger side....um....they would have to tilt their head?
lol...great DIY as always ![]() you never cease to amaze me.
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-Cole aka bigtall*****
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#9 |
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Banned
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Nice.
I have a question though..... how hard was it to run the wire through your headliner? any tips or advice? |
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#10 |
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Banned
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x3 triple post.
sorry delete Last edited by Limited_Slip; 04-19-2007 at 06:33 PM. |
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#11 |
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Banned
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.
Last edited by Limited_Slip; 04-19-2007 at 06:33 PM. |
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#12 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Woodland Hills < SFV < LA < SoCal
Posts: 27,173
My Ride: 2001 3 Pedal M54b30
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WOW, great install. very cleanly and professionally done. great work man. i really like what you did.
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#13 |
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Registered User
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you just sick with it.....amazing...your car is lucky
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#14 |
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Registered User
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nice work, but im not sure i like the way that looks....
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![]() 01 330i | Sport | Premium| Custom Intake & Heatshield | Smoked Clear Corners | 7% Tint All Around | 12' Kicker CVR |
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#15 |
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Registered User
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WOW.
BUT WOW, that is impressive! Completely custom install. Very very cool. i think what you might be able to do is forget trying to display via the mirror like that. Leave the V1 mounted in the rear, take out the LEDS and such, and tap the wires are connected to the arrow leds and run them into a carputer, decoding the "number" part should also be pretty easy and basically have the carputer up front display all that. i think you have a carputer right? you were making bezels awhile ago? |
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#16 |
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Registered User
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LAFENGAS,
awesome as usual |
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#17 | |||
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www.thielstudios.com
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thanks again all.
Quote:
Quote:
yeah, me neither. It has since changed though. I'll post new pics when it's presentable. Quote:
no, i just have a navigation/DVD unit. good idea though!
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#18 |
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DFW
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amazing! Can you elaborate a bit more on the work you did for the buttons on the steering wheel?!!
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#19 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Boynton Beach, FL
Posts: 402
My Ride: '05 Z4 2.5, '13 ATS
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Love it! Awesome mod!
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#20 | |
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www.thielstudios.com
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Quote:
Basically, computer keyboards have very thin momentary switches for each character. I took an old keyboard, cut one of these thin switches out. and soldered a wire to each side of the switch. Once i had the wires in place, i just mounted it under the button on the steering wheel. The momentary switch is just a circuit interupt. You don't hook up a power and a ground wire to it. Just one...and it completes the circuit only when it is pressed. understand?
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