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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 12-04-2007, 04:53 PM   #21
thefoxkazan
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Originally Posted by mjazz81 View Post
So I would recommend that other folks interested in this buy the professional special tool and do it yourself as you will save a TON of time and a ton of money. I also second his opinion that you need a helper… getting out from under the car just to move the shafts around took A LOT of time.
Well, I will certainly agree with you about the tool!!! Makes life so much easier, but I didn't have extra $200 lying around, hence the troubles.

I would recommend trying to put together this tool yourself, from parts you can find in hardware stores, and only if it wouldn't work - going for the special one.
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Old 12-04-2007, 05:08 PM   #22
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It's a choose your poison deal, I think. I would rather not unbolt an axle, but others would disagree.
I would strongly disagree. Removing axles is as easy, as removing 12 bolts. A child can do it.

Also, having differential removed completely out of the car makes it 10 times easier to access each of these bushings, maneuver around them with wrenches, hammer, etc. Plus, if you are not in the shop, and your car is simply up on jack stands, and you are squeezed in there, lying on your back(!!!) - having as much room as possible under the car and around the parts is VERY IMPORTANT.
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Old 12-05-2007, 03:36 PM   #23
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WOW great DIY, I am also looking to do this job but after reading this I may just spring the money to buy the special tools! To bad you didnt fix your rear clucnk sound. I also have that rear clucnk sound on my 2000 323Ci. Maybe the RSM, or RTAB? Anybody?
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Old 12-06-2007, 02:22 PM   #24
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Old 12-18-2007, 02:31 PM   #25
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Definitely Not for the Faint of Heart!

I want to thank the original poster for his write up. It was a big help to me, as I just did the same to my 2000 323i. I also, had to resort to "ghetto mode", as the tool that I had was not strong enough and stripped the threaded rod. Fortunately, because of your advice, I gave up on the tool quickly and just start hacking away. It probably took me 2 hours of drilling, grinding, pounding and swearing to get the rear bushing out- but it did come out! Thanks for you help. Can you be persuaded to do any more projects so I can take advantage of your great illustrated pictures?
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Old 12-27-2007, 10:03 AM   #26
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Thanks for the great post! We just did this to my friends e36 m3. I would add that the old bushings were much easier to remove when heated.
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Old 12-28-2007, 08:46 PM   #27
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If the bushing is not the problem..than what is the problem then??.. i replaced my bushing with a new one but the clunk noise is still there.. I really really want to know what the problem is, can it be the clutch? i have also removed the CDV so the clutch line is now direct. Flex disc has also replaced but no improvement was there. I have this problem like 2 years and BMW say its normal . The subframe is in good shape with no cracks or something like that i am really confused because i can't find the problem.
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Old 01-06-2008, 06:38 PM   #28
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Fuk that. My rear differential bushing is shot, and I was thinking of doing it wiht my buddy, but after seeing this I'd rather pay the $470 they quoted me.

And with me bringing my own parts it should be just a tad cheaper. Ill try to get it down to $400 flat. Is it at all possible to swap just the rear bushing without dropping the entire diff?
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Old 01-06-2008, 07:38 PM   #29
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I've had a clunk for like 3 years now. I had all 3 bushings replaced and it didn't go away. I'm guessing it's coming from the diff or the rear axles.
I also had the flex disk changed.


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Old 01-06-2008, 07:55 PM   #30
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When do u get the clunk?
I get with when I let the clutch out; as soon as that drive goes through to the diff I hear it.

And mine isn't a clunk, its a very distinct THUMP.

Kinda like when u unplug an amp that was turned up.

Them guys at the shop showed me, and u could clearly see the diff rocking in place and the rear bushing almost totally shot.

They also showed me my damn almost shot driver side control arm bushing too.
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Old 01-07-2008, 09:54 AM   #31
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Great write up. if anything, it told me not to even consider doing this job.


Could the clunking sound be the Rear Shock Mounts RSM? have you guys replaced those? An relatively easy and "cheap" thing to do. Get the M RSM.
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Old 01-07-2008, 09:57 AM   #32
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My RSM were upgraded with my suspension.
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Old 01-20-2008, 12:59 AM   #33
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Thanks so much for this write up! It really helped a lot just knowing the order of things to take off and what to expect. The job really was not that bad other than the rear bushing being rusted in. It took me and a buddy 7 hours to do this from start to finish even though we have a lift and lots of power / air tools We found the best way to get the bushing out is completely destroy it and then pull out the pieces ALSO NO MORE CLUNK!!!!!!
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Old 01-20-2008, 01:11 AM   #34
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I want to changr minr.
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Old 01-21-2008, 11:13 PM   #35
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I changed that rear mount a couple years ago. The "thump" sound disappeared but returned about 6 months later.
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Old 01-21-2008, 11:21 PM   #36
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thats why im changing the bad bushing, and the one opposite to it too.
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Old 01-22-2008, 10:14 AM   #37
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This is the source of my clunk...Getting it fixed in a couple of days...Good Luck to all the rest!

SI 24 09 98
Automatic Transmission
December 2001
Service Engineering
This Service Information bulletins supersedes S.I. 24 09 98 dated December 1998.

designates changes to this revision

SUBJECT
E46 GM5 Transmission "Clunk" Noise


MODEL
E46 - 323iA, 328iA produced from 05/98 up to 03/00 with A5S360R (GM5) Transmission


SITUATION
A "Clunk Noise" is heard/felt during situations of load reversal. The situation can occur during downshifts, release of accelerator pedal at 20-30mph with 2000-2500 rpm or in reverse at 3000 rpm and accelerator pedal released.

This concern involves E46 vehicles with M52TU engines, fitted with transmission A5S360R until transmission serial number 162728.

CAUSE
Excessive axial clearance between transmission output shaft and transmission output flange.

CORRECTION
A production change has been implemented as of transmission serial number 162728

In the event of a customer complaint on vehicles with a transmission serial number less than 162728 the location of the noise should be determined during a test drive as follows:
• With the engine warm, drive the car at a speed between 20 and 25 MPH. While traveling in this speed range, quickly release the accelerator pedal (causing engine braking to occur).
• If a muffled knocking noise is heard coming from the rear-axle area after going into decel mode, or shortly thereafter, then the cause is with the transmission output flange. Replace transmission output flange with the new version P/N 24 21 7 515 388 with spring washer as per repair instructions 24 21 ... (available as of TIS CD 9/98).
• If the noise does not appear to be coming from the rear axle area further diagnosis is required in order to isolate the source of the "clunk". Recommendation would be to utilize a chassis ear to locate the source of the clunk noise.
The repair kit "Output flange with spring washer" (PN 24 21 7 515 388) can be ordered through the regular parts channels.

PROCEDURE
Installation of the kit on the transmission:
1. Remove the exhaust pipe from the vehicle as per procedure 18 00 020 "Removing and Installing complete exhaust system M52 TU".
2. Remove the propeller shaft from the transmission as per procedure 26 11 000 "Removing and Installing complete propeller shaft"


3. Hold output flange (1) with special tool 23 0 020.
Remove hexagon nut.
Remove output flange (1).
On the transmissions from serial number 7912, remove the retainer (snap ring) from the output shaft
Discard the nut, the seal O-ring of the flange, and the retainer.


Prepare the retrofit kit :
• (1) Snap ring
• (2) O-ring
• (3) Output flange
• (4) Spring washer
• (5) Flange nut


5. Install new drive flange O-ring (1) (from the kit) into the new drive flange (2) using Transmission fluid or petroleum jelly


6. Install the "Retainer" (1) included in the kit using snap ring wrench, as deep as possible on the output shaft (2).
Note: Be careful to not damage lip seal when installing the "Retainer".
7. Install new drive flange with O-ring onto the transmission output shaft and push the retainer fully into place


8. Install the spring washer (1) from the kit as shown on the drive flange (2) (big diameter face to flange 2, small diameter face to nut).


9. Apply coat of "LOCTITE 242" to the thread of the output shaft.
NOTE:
"LOCTITE 242" is the only thread locker/sealant approved for this repair, and it is available from your local Loctite distributor.
10. Tighten the new nut (1) (included in the kit) on the output shaft using a Hexagonal M30 Socket
PARTS INFORMATION
Part Number - 24 21 7 515 388
Description - Repair set output flange
Quantity 1
WARRANTY INFORMATION
Covered under the terms of the BMW New Vehicle Limited Warranty.
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Last edited by DBLAZE; 01-22-2008 at 10:16 AM.
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Old 01-22-2008, 11:08 AM   #38
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how much does this cost to be fixed at the dealer?
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Old 01-22-2008, 11:21 AM   #39
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The kit alone is $200; with labor we are talking about $500-$600 all together...
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-20" Status 931 Staggered Wheels (Black Lip)
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-AC Schnitzer Pedals/Footrest
-Lumma Roof Spoiler (Painted)
-50% Smoke Window Tint
-5W Kaibird LED Angel Eyes
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-K&N Air Filter
Fern Green 323ci - SOLD

Last edited by DBLAZE; 01-22-2008 at 11:25 AM.
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Old 01-23-2008, 09:41 AM   #40
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Yes right.. but there are many people with manual transmission and this repair kit thus not apply for them. I have also 5 speed gearbox and also the clunck noise. By the way we were aware of this fix for automatic transmissions.
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