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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 04-04-2007, 11:19 AM   #41
ca1242
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Usually, the pins follow a standard configuration (layout), so even if they are not labeled, you can figure them out. Click on my sig and go to the relays page in my website. I have diagrams for relays there. Polarity on the coil does not matter.
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Old 04-04-2007, 11:41 AM   #42
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thanks
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Old 09-23-2007, 01:32 PM   #43
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Hi,

I just found this and have to say that it's one of the coolest and cheapest mod ;-) However, after doing the mod, I encounter problems. The passenger angel eyes light and dim slower than the driver side. So whenever I unlock the car, the driver side will come first following by the passenger. And when it dim the passenger side will go off first. Also the headlight malfunction light come on every time but it'll go away when I turn on the headlight. What had I done wrong? I'm unclear of the blue/red stripes wire in the glovebox as describe, so I just connect to any of the room lights. Will this cause the problem? I also have identical relay to the angel eyes each. Should I use a single relay for both side instead? Please advice.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 09-23-2007, 02:12 PM   #44
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They draw very little current. you can use a single relay for both. If one side is dimmer then the other, then you might have a bad ballast. try swapping them and see if the issue moves to the other side. No reason to get a headlight error unless you forgot to plug something up.
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Old 10-16-2007, 01:55 AM   #45
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For some reason, I am still getting the headlight error. I'm not sure the setting of the angel eyes in this thread is the same as mine as I notice in some of the diagram posted here, there's an additional switch used to on/off the angel eyes. For my setting, the angel eyes actually replace the low light (not sure how to address it but it's the 1st position u turn to on the light when the 2nd position will turn on the HID light). So there's no longer small bulb for the low light but it's the angel eyes instead.

Whenever I turn on the light, the error will be gone. But I off it and after a while, the error light will lit again. Please help
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Old 10-16-2007, 04:01 AM   #46
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I think i have the same kit which plugs into the parkers or the 'low light' as you describe. They turn on with the first switch of the headlight.

Mine however does not give an error when they are off. Perhaps a resistor wired in after the halos might work. I'm guessing that the computer is looking for a bulb, even when the lights are off, so you'll have to trick the computer somehow.
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Old 10-16-2007, 05:41 AM   #47
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I think i have the same kit which plugs into the parkers or the 'low light' as you describe. They turn on with the first switch of the headlight.

Mine however does not give an error when they are off. Perhaps a resistor wired in after the halos might work. I'm guessing that the computer is looking for a bulb, even when the lights are off, so you'll have to trick the computer somehow.
The error lights only come up after I've added relays to mod this "remote" angel eyes. Initially everything is fine (without "remote"). Does yours have "remote"?
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Old 12-03-2007, 04:52 PM   #48
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Old 12-04-2007, 01:46 AM   #49
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Do you mean you re-wired to use the relay? Then i suspect that your LCM/ECU is looking for a bulb which is no longer there. Prior to your remote mod, your angel eyes were wired direct to the parkers which i assume functioned in place of your parker bulb. No that it is not there, you get bulb out error.

I recently had the same issue... i've ditched the relay and wired it myself without relay.
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Old 12-09-2007, 04:09 PM   #50
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Thanks! This was an awesome addition to my DDE's

I always had that extra trigger wire just tied up but now it's actually hooked up to the footwell lighting. Fades in during unlock and fades out during lock and is constantly on when engine is on.

If you have angel eyes, and are not using the extra trigger wire put it to good use and hook it up
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Old 12-09-2007, 11:35 PM   #51
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very nice, I must do when putting in my eyes
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Old 04-03-2008, 12:00 AM   #52
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Thanks to Highvoltage


so just for explanation .. when the footwell lights are activated via the key power is supplied via 87a across the relay to 30 and then to the angel eyes. when the ignition is turned on (ie power supplied to pin 85) the coil in the relay is activated which pulls up the bar away from 87a to connect with 87 instead. the footwell supply is broken and power is supplied to the angel eyes via 87 and 30. the switch of course makes or breaks the circuit after the relay.
Dragging an old but great post up.....

On the pic,if I were to wire my "sidelights", first headlight switch position, to pin 85 and not bother with the switch would it work with no bulb out error?
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Old 04-03-2008, 07:49 AM   #53
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Switch not required, it is only an option.
You can tap to any source of power. Sidelights should work fine.
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Old 04-03-2008, 08:19 AM   #54
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Switch not required, it is only an option.
You can tap to any source of power. Sidelights should work fine.
Thanks,you always help

I've actually just finished the mod.Tapped into the sidelights for the power and grounded the AE's locally on the sidelight ground.

I used a relay as I had no diodes,works well.

I connected the footwell light from the passenger side (drivers where I live), its an easy job and it brings it out just where you need it plus it saves dropping the glovebox and or fishing cables through.

Thanks again forall the info
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Old 04-08-2008, 03:48 PM   #55
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Using a 3M T Tap .. simply tap your wire coming from the engine bay onto this blue / red wire. and.. bingo... you're done. Go ahead and put the glove box back in place and put a 10amp fuse in the inline fuse holder (if you added one).
I understood everything but this...

what exactly does it mean to "tap" a wire? what is a 3M T tap? what is a 10 amp fuse? and what the hell is an inline fuse holder?
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Old 04-08-2008, 04:28 PM   #56
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Are you joking? You don't know what a fuse is?

A t-tap is a fastener that crimps two wires together (and existing wire and a new wire). I personally do not recommend t-taps are they make for an unreliable connection. If you want a realibale connection, strip insulation on the car wire, wrap the new wire around and solder, then insulate with tape.

Google is your friend:

http://images.google.com/images?um=1...ne+fuse+holder

http://images.google.com/images?um=1...9US210&q=t-tap
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Old 04-08-2008, 05:20 PM   #57
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Originally Posted by ca1242 View Post
Are you joking? You don't know what a fuse is?

A t-tap is a fastener that crimps two wires together (and existing wire and a new wire). I personally do not recommend t-taps are they make for an unreliable connection. If you want a realibale connection, strip insulation on the car wire, wrap the new wire around and solder, then insulate with tape.

Google is your friend:

http://images.google.com/images?um=1...ne+fuse+holder

http://images.google.com/images?um=1...9US210&q=t-tap
im a med student man...im neck deep in medical crap it leaves me with little common knowledge concerning things like wiring....
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Old 04-08-2008, 05:23 PM   #58
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and while i now know what a t tap looks like and what an inline fuse looks like...i still have no idea if i need them...or how to use them or...im basically more lost than before haha
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Old 04-08-2008, 06:53 PM   #59
ca1242
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Don't you guys have to jump start people in the er or wire pacemakers and stuff?

Diagram above shows pretty much what you have to do. If you want to make your life easier, buy a kit from someone like Umnitza or Jlevi. Their kits come with all the parts you need and instructions with details and pictures.
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Old 04-08-2008, 07:01 PM   #60
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Don't you guys have to jump start people in the er or wire pacemakers and stuff?

Diagram above shows pretty much what you have to do. If you want to make your life easier, buy a kit from someone like Umnitza or Jlevi. Their kits come with all the parts you need and instructions with details and pictures.
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