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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 06-04-2008, 02:37 AM   #61
scintilla
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alb89n View Post
Of course they aren't designed for jacking-i never said they were. I'm just saying that will support the weight of the car...
I don't think the control arms are as robust as you think. They are designed to control the wheel movement, not to support the weight of the car. The weight of the car is laid on the hub by the strut.
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Old 06-04-2008, 10:48 AM   #62
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Originally Posted by Alb89n View Post
Of course they aren't designed for jacking-i never said they were. I'm just saying that will support the weight of the car...
And I'm saying a very definite NO!! for the safety of you, your car and anyone who might have read your post and been tempted.

I'm not trying to be argumentative in a "my advice is better" competition. Bear in mind, please, newbs may take on board advice in a thread entitled "safe jackpoints - definitive answer". Many of us are striving to give safe advice with photos where possible.

Control arm bushings on an e46 are notorious for failure anyway, you wouldn't want to place extra strain on those bushings, nor place the weight of the car on a control arm. It could bend, affecting your steering, accelerate bushing failure, or worse case scenario bring your car crashing down to the floor.

Control arms, what they look like and what they're for here:
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=421918
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Old 06-04-2008, 08:10 PM   #63
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Originally Posted by Adenosinebambam View Post
My car is too low for ramps.. I just push em across my driveway..
The problem: Standard ramps are too steep for low cars.



The solution: Make some pre-ramps from a solid length of wood 7cm square (or 3" x 3"). Each is 17" long.











The wooden pre-ramps can then be moved out of the way if you wish to use the front OEM jacking point for a jack or stands.



Remember to put the pre-ramps back in place before backing off, and back down slowly to avoid the suspension compressing when you hit the pre-ramps.

I won't post exact dimensions as your ramps may be different (my blue ramps are from Halfords), you would have to measure to fit but you get the idea.
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Old 06-04-2008, 10:00 PM   #64
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so just to be sure... if i'm gonna swap my rear wheels, i only need to use a floor jack, and jack from the rubber pads and that's enough? if i do one side at a time?
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Old 06-05-2008, 02:03 AM   #65
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Old 06-08-2008, 01:10 AM   #66
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Tag, good info!
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Old 07-28-2008, 02:26 AM   #67
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Originally Posted by NikolaiDelov View Post
Ok, this is a great illustration of jacking the rear, but I have one question: how do you get the jack that far up under the car to begin with? My Craftsman jack is maybe two feet long from center of the jack saddle/pad thing to the axle of the pump handle. Shave a few inches off that amount to allow for enough handle travel for the actual jacking up. Now, from the rear of the car, with the front wheels up on rhino ramps, the furthest I can get the jack to reach is the spare wheel well. The distance from the rear bumper to the differential carrier must be at least three feet, maybe a bit more. From the side of the car the diff carrier is too far to reach also.

So... how did you do it? Maybe 2x4's under the rear wheels to pre-lift the whole rear?

M.
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Old 08-21-2008, 11:41 PM   #68
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Old 12-17-2008, 10:53 PM   #69
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Originally Posted by jmctype4 View Post
Ok, this is a great illustration of jacking the rear, but I have one question: how do you get the jack that far up under the car to begin with? My Craftsman jack is maybe two feet long from center of the jack saddle/pad thing to the axle of the pump handle. Shave a few inches off that amount to allow for enough handle travel for the actual jacking up. Now, from the rear of the car, with the front wheels up on rhino ramps, the furthest I can get the jack to reach is the spare wheel well. The distance from the rear bumper to the differential carrier must be at least three feet, maybe a bit more. From the side of the car the diff carrier is too far to reach also.

So... how did you do it? Maybe 2x4's under the rear wheels to pre-lift the whole rear?

M.
One of the best tools I have bought myself (and believe me, I have a ton, duplicates, etc. etc. Even have 3 air compressors...) is:

A very long service jack. I can get the lifting pad under the axle (on cars that have lifting points there) and still jack from behond the bumpers. It also has a foot pump to allow me to lift with my foot without pumping the arm. Then it gets to where you need the leverage, and you can pump. Very substantial.

Cost me about $250 or so, but it has saved me so much time, it is unbelievable.

http://www.alltiresupply.com/p-OME-25058.html

It is basically like the one above. Bought it locally about 6 years ago after the seals in one like yours failed (and replacing them did not fix it...)
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Old 03-21-2009, 02:34 AM   #70
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here is a good one.

Last edited by handel; 03-22-2009 at 04:45 PM. Reason: photo.
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Old 05-21-2009, 10:43 PM   #71
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Old 06-14-2009, 08:17 AM   #72
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what about jacking by the front jack points, and placing the jack stands under the frame rail ? kinda opposite to the procedure of the OP. i have a low profile jack but not deep enough to reach the frame rail.
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Old 08-15-2010, 07:28 AM   #73
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Originally Posted by miaM7 View Post
what about jacking by the front jack points, and placing the jack stands under the frame rail ? kinda opposite to the procedure of the OP. i have a low profile jack but not deep enough to reach the frame rail.
Why not use your factory jack on rubber jack pads and then slide in your proper lifting jack into the frame rail?

I have a question for those that have put jack stands under the rubber jack points. Dont the rubber jacks pads get all chewed up and indented by resting on the U or V shaped jack stands????

I was swapping round my rear wheels last week, and popped my jack stands under the rear trailing arm...... after reading this post, i guess that was wrong!



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Old 08-15-2010, 08:13 AM   #74
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Thanks for the pic of jacking points. I have used those red points ,on the picture as shown, and I found it was a soft point. The medal gave-in, it bent where the seams kind of split. So I used the floor hack for more support along with the jack-stand for precaution. Next time I will use the green points. It Looks like it just under the floor panel. I would be concerned of a cave in but I'll try it next time when hacking up car.


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Old 08-16-2010, 12:00 PM   #75
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[QUOTE=Oz Striker;12123669]Why not use your factory jack on rubber jack pads and then slide in your proper lifting jack into the frame rail?
I guess you havent read the horror stories about that factory jack ... but to extrapolate from your idea, use another jack to put my low profile jack deeper inside. yes, i did that before.

Yes, if you`re not careful, the jack stand rubber mounts will end being chewed up ...
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Old 08-19-2010, 07:56 PM   #76
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[QUOTE=miaM7;12128318]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oz Striker View Post
Why not use your factory jack on rubber jack pads and then slide in your proper lifting jack into the frame rail?
I guess you havent read the horror stories about that factory jack ... but to extrapolate from your idea, use another jack to put my low profile jack deeper inside. yes, i did that before.

Yes, if you`re not careful, the jack stand rubber mounts will end being chewed up ...
I take it you mean they're somewhat unstable?? Cool thanks for the heads up on the factory jack pads, i'll cut up blocks of wood to slot into them.
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Old 08-20-2010, 07:36 AM   #77
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Ramp question

This is a slightly different question but is there any way to get the rear on some rhino ramps without using jacks? My car is too low but I wondered if there was any way.
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Old 09-28-2010, 10:08 AM   #78
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is it not safe just to use jack on the side jacking point, let say if you're working on the rear brakes? do you really need a jack stand?
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Old 09-29-2010, 06:28 AM   #79
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Originally Posted by pinoybmr3 View Post
is it not safe just to use jack on the side jacking point, let say if you're working on the rear brakes? do you really need a jack stand?
I only use the Jack on the Jack points to change tires. For a brake job, that i assume you don't want to rush, it is safer to use Jack stands. It's easy to do it for the rear, because jacking from the rear U brace in front of the differential raises both sides of the rear. Be safe.
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Old 09-29-2010, 01:13 PM   #80
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Originally Posted by jmctype4 View Post
Ok, this is a great illustration of jacking the rear, but I have one question: how do you get the jack that far up under the car to begin with? My Craftsman jack is maybe two feet long from center of the jack saddle/pad thing to the axle of the pump handle. Shave a few inches off that amount to allow for enough handle travel for the actual jacking up. Now, from the rear of the car, with the front wheels up on rhino ramps, the furthest I can get the jack to reach is the spare wheel well. The distance from the rear bumper to the differential carrier must be at least three feet, maybe a bit more. From the side of the car the diff carrier is too far to reach also.

So... how did you do it? Maybe 2x4's under the rear wheels to pre-lift the whole rear?

M.
I would not put a jack on the rear diff housing.
Between the rear wheels the drive shaft meets the diff should be a U bracket that supports the axle, that you can jack the car up from the rear.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Oz Striker View Post
Why not use your factory jack on rubber jack pads and then slide in your proper lifting jack into the frame rail?

I have a question for those that have put jack stands under the rubber jack points. Dont the rubber jacks pads get all chewed up and indented by resting on the U or V shaped jack stands????

I was swapping round my rear wheels last week, and popped my jack stands under the rear trailing arm...... after reading this post, i guess that was wrong!




I wouldn't use the trailing arm or lower control arm part as jack point. In case you bend your suspension.

Use the 4 rubber jackpoints for jack stands, if you're worried about damaging the rubber, put a flat piece of cut up rubber mat between mount and jack stand. And the front, there's a rectangle that you can jack your front up, put a flat piece of rubber between your floor jack to prevent denting or scratching metal.

I believe I've covered the rear jack point already.

edit: to see the proper jack points, search "automatic or steptronic fluid change"
there's a DIY, refer to those jack points.

Last edited by e46bonestock; 09-29-2010 at 01:27 PM.
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