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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 07-21-2008, 09:53 PM   #21
ninsei
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Hi. Chronic2112: What did the old pump sound like when it was going bad? I have this kind of high pitched rattle/squeaky sound at idle sometimes, coming from that area.
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Old 07-22-2008, 06:54 AM   #22
tony325ci_51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ninsei View Post
Hi. Chronic2112: What did the old pump sound like when it was going bad? I have this kind of high pitched rattle/squeaky sound at idle sometimes, coming from that area.
Sounds more like a water pump / belt. A failing PS pump will whine at idle and you'll be able to vary the pitch by moving the steering wheel slightly.
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Old 07-22-2008, 07:33 AM   #23
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Good info - on my car I don't have any noise (high pitch) squel at idle - but if I turn the wheel to the limit (either left or right) then I get a high pitched squel/moan. I ususally hear this the most when backing out of of parking spot or pulling into to one.

My mechanic said that was normal - although he didn't hear it - and my PS is covered under my warranty.

Whadda guys think? Pump going bad or is that fall under "slightly normal"?
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Old 07-22-2008, 11:26 AM   #24
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Turning the wheel to full left or right will cause the pump to make some noise because it's trying to push the wheels more than they are able to go. That's normal.

If you're sitting in a parking space, with the car idling, and you move the wheel a half turn right and you hear a wierd "EEERrrrrrrrrrrr" sound, which stops after you stop trying to turn the wheel... *thats* the power steering pump. It can be relatively loud, but you'll probably want the windows down to listen the best.
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Old 07-24-2008, 11:38 AM   #25
remedyz08
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what ATF fluid is used to fill up the pump??
also is it hard to replace the high pressure hose while doing this?? im tackling this hopefully today
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Old 07-28-2008, 02:33 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by remedyz08 View Post
what ATF fluid is used to fill up the pump??
also is it hard to replace the high pressure hose while doing this?? im tackling this hopefully today
It's not ATF, it's "Power Steering Fluid". I purchased a quart from Kragen for about $5. Also, I haven't touched the high pressure hose, but it shouldn't be too hard to tackle. Good luck!
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Old 07-29-2008, 07:17 AM   #27
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You're supposed to use Dexron III ATF in the PS pump. Sounds strange I know, but that's what it says.
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Old 07-29-2008, 05:40 PM   #28
havnfun328
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Originally Posted by TX_Bullet View Post
Question: what size allen wrench was required to move the tensioner pulley before I do mine this weekend at the power steering pump i got says LUK-120
Yes it's a Torx. T-20 or 25, IIRC.
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Old 08-10-2008, 01:52 PM   #29
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Great DIY.... I have power steering fluid leaking directly from the pump elbow (Large circle in your picture). Can I tighten or replace just that part or will I need to replace the whole PSP?



If I do have to replace the whole PSP, its going to be more work for me cus of my SC

TIA,
Charlie
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Old 08-11-2008, 06:24 PM   #30
madkevo
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A long way from home...

I've a "nice" one: '00 328i, 150k km / 90k miles on clock. At the moment I'm on vacation about 1200km / 700 miles from home and this evening when taking a right hand bend I felt the steering go heavy and a strange noise from outside - I thought it was a flat tyre in fact. Pulled over and checked for a flat, there wasn;t one. Checked wheel nuts were tight, they were.
Shrugged my shoulders, got in car and pulled off.
However noise was still there, a grinding noise (about 50% of volume of the engine itself) which is there at all times and really gets loud (maybe 5 times louder than engine) when i turn the steering, especially when there is resistance like when parallel parking.
From reading this post and others it sounds like it's the PSP, sure hope it's not the steering rack.
I've tracked down a BMW repair centre quite close to me, but it's the South of France, I've an imperfect command of the language and it's peak holiday season so getting a mechanic on duty will be interesting!
Besides sharing my hard luck story, anyone any idea of how much time BMW will quote for the labour element of a PSP replacement? I guess 3-4 hours.
Will let you know how it all pans out anyhow, thanks for reading/listening!
/Kevin.
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Old 08-12-2008, 04:01 PM   #31
madkevo
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Originally Posted by madkevo View Post
I've a "nice" one: '00 328i, 150k km / 90k miles on clock. At the moment I'm on vacation about 1200km / 700 miles from home and this evening when taking a right hand bend I felt the steering go heavy and a strange noise from outside - I thought it was a flat tyre in fact. Pulled over and checked for a flat, there wasn;t one. Checked wheel nuts were tight, they were.
Shrugged my shoulders, got in car and pulled off.
However noise was still there, a grinding noise (about 50% of volume of the engine itself) which is there at all times and really gets loud (maybe 5 times louder than engine) when i turn the steering, especially when there is resistance like when parallel parking.
From reading this post and others it sounds like it's the PSP, sure hope it's not the steering rack.
I've tracked down a BMW repair centre quite close to me, but it's the South of France, I've an imperfect command of the language and it's peak holiday season so getting a mechanic on duty will be interesting!
Besides sharing my hard luck story, anyone any idea of how much time BMW will quote for the labour element of a PSP replacement? I guess 3-4 hours.
Will let you know how it all pans out anyhow, thanks for reading/listening!
/Kevin.
Don't seem to be able to edit my own post, oh well.
OK, for other who might experience the same thing, noise was still there this morning. Got someone to turn the steering while I popped the bonnet/hood and had a listen. Hard to pinpoint to the PSP, but thought it probably was there.
So, plotted a course to the nearest, non-vacationing, stealer but before I set off I decided to fully lock the steering to see if the noise was much worse, confirming the pump was at fault.
When I reached full-lock, the noise disappeared, and 200km of mountain roads later it's still not returned!!
My brother diagnosed this as a stuck valve in the steering rack, apparently an old VW Passat issue, I'm not so sure.
So, before sinking lots of money into a new PSP, lock hard and see what happens!
Now, if only the weather was co-operating, but a bit out of scope for this forum :-)
/MK

Last edited by madkevo; 08-12-2008 at 04:03 PM.
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Old 08-14-2008, 03:07 AM   #32
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I have a 2001 330ci and it has boosted steering, do you guys think by changing to a later model year power steering pump that my steering will get tighter or only replacing the steering rack will make it tighter? I think the pump is starting to go.
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Old 08-14-2008, 03:33 AM   #33
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I did a little searching and this is what I found. I guess bmw did change the pump. So if you replace p/s pump to an older or newer model besides 2001 it will make steering require more effort.

Heres the part number for power steering pump and what year that bmw had it on their car.

2005 - 32 41 6 760 034
2004 - 32 41 6 760 034 My guess is to buy one of these years
2003 - 32 41 6 760 034
2002 - 32 41 6 760 034

3/2001 - 32 41 6 760 036

4/2001 - 32 41 6 756 582

2000 - 32 41 1 094 965


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Old 09-29-2008, 01:43 PM   #34
tony325ci_51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blingman View Post
I did a little searching and this is what I found. I guess bmw did change the pump. So if you replace p/s pump to an older or newer model besides 2001 it will make steering require more effort.

Heres the part number for power steering pump and what year that bmw had it on their car.

2005 - 32 41 6 760 034
2004 - 32 41 6 760 034 My guess is to buy one of these years
2003 - 32 41 6 760 034
2002 - 32 41 6 760 034

3/2001 - 32 41 6 760 036

4/2001 - 32 41 6 756 582

2000 - 32 41 1 094 965


First a little info:

32416760036 and 32416760034 are identical, both LF-20, both 110 pressure, steering feel will be the same.

I had a (failed) 32416760036 (pre 9/01) pump, replaced with a later 32416760034 (post 9/02) pump, looks and all fittings are identical.

Then a hint on how to to interpret the above info, reading between the lines, from an e46 fanatics "driving enthusiast's" point of view.
For "it will make steering require more effort" read "BMW upgraded the steering to give it more of a sports car feel on the road, as enthusiasts complained of the over-light steering".

As for the blurb about "customer may complain about increased effort to turn the wheel", this would apply mainly to those people who are used to the light finger-touch steering of lesser runabouts who favour easy parking at the supermarket over sporting "feel".

So yes, they can fit the older pre-mod 120 or 130 psi pump if you really want more assistance. But do you ?
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Old 10-01-2008, 01:48 PM   #35
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Just to add that Overboosted steering is primarly caused by the steering rack itself, and not the power steering pump.

My 01 330i came with overboosted steering and initially I too thought that it was related to the pump.
After speaking with some people and techs, I confirmed that it was related to steering rack.

I went ahead and swapped my steering rack with one from 98 328i and voila! Overboosted steering is thing of past.
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so 2004 bmw's dont come with a diff?
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Old 10-24-2008, 11:27 PM   #36
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working on changing my Power steering pump today. The Torx star is a T-50 for the idle pulley. I have a 2004 325i with auto transmission. Here's some pictures of the job. I removed my air box up top to make way for light and getting at things easier. The air box is easily removed by taking the 2 bolts loose on the drivers side, loosening the clamp for the air inlet and unplugging the air sensor, then removing the box from the air ducts is fits into. There are 5 or 6 philips screwdriver fittings and there are 3 plastic tabs to take loose also on the front of the under-motor panel. The screws get turned, not removed. There are 2 seperate belts you'll see. The one more towards the radiator is the belt for the power steering pump. I used a hand-squeeze pump vacuum line to remove the power steering fluid into an empty 2 liter soda bottle. You do NOT have to remove the sway bar to remove the pump once you get it loose. There are 3 T-45 torx bolts that face forward and 1 rear facing shorter bolt that goes to a small bracket above the pump. The pulley is taken loose by removing 3 bolts facing forward and pulling it off the pump arm after you remove the pump from the car. It helps if you have small hands or great tools!
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Old 10-24-2008, 11:32 PM   #37
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a few more pictures of the job. also some pictures of the pump and pulley. I noticed that the pump looks a bit different than the one from the first car that posted on their ps pump replacement job.
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Old 10-24-2008, 11:36 PM   #38
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I also had to apply a little paint remover to the pulley shaft on the new pump. They sprayed a good coat of paint on it and the pulley had a .005" clearance problem. I removed the paint and then it went on good and snug.
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Old 10-27-2008, 01:32 PM   #39
tony325ci_51
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Originally Posted by shooterpcb View Post
I noticed that the pump looks a bit different than the one from the first car that posted on their ps pump replacement job.
The OP's car is a '99 (M52 engined 323/328) with the earlier Luk LF-30. (recognisable by "barrel" shape along side).

Yours (like mine >2001, M54 engined 325/330) has the later Luk LF-20. (recognisable by plastic L-pipe).
(unfortunately Realoem incorrectly used a diagram of an LF-30 for both).

Nice write-up with good details of torx bit sizes, etc.
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Old 11-02-2008, 04:00 PM   #40
madkevo
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pump just changed

Hi all,
thanks to OP and other contributors. Just replaced my broken LF-20 (110bar) pump on my 2000 328i - managed to find a new unit at an ok price from C3 BMW in the UK via the 'bay.
My findings:
- Belt tensioner was a mechanical one, so just had to use a 15mm long socket (it was a spark plug socket) turning it clockwise to swing arm to loosen belt so I could release it from alternator pulley (top right hand one).
- Loosened off the pulley from the shaft while belt was still on, 13mm socket to do this.
- Didn't remove sway bar, was plenty of room.
- The shaft of the pump came right out of the pump, had snapped from jammed impeller mechanism. I guess this is better than the pulley jamming...
- All 3 bolts on pump were 13mm.
- Clamped off the inlet hose from the reservoir to minimise fluid loss (I had flushed my fluid lately, otherwise would have just emptied the system).
- Be careful not to lose the tiny seal on the end of the outlet pipe (which attaches to pump via a 17mm bolt; I used an open spanner/wrench) on the pump - for me it was green in colour.
- Replaced BMW's spring clip on inlet with a jubilee clip.

Took about 90 mins in all, in fairness I had already had a trial run with an, ahem, non LF-20 pump... at least it meant that I got some pics of the original pump.
Got air bled out fairly quickly and now as good as new
Cheers,
Kevin.

Last edited by madkevo; 11-02-2008 at 04:07 PM.
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