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Old 08-19-2008, 06:30 PM   #1
JoeVert
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Anyone directly replace Vert subwoofer?

Has anyone tried to just directly replace the stock sub in the Convertibles ski pass and hook up an aftermarket amp? Something shallow like this may work...

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-fePWo7b...x?I=575P3SD410

I see all kinds of custom ski pass set-ups, which I may do myself but before busting out the saw and starting a new project or spending the cash on the BSW system, I figured I would check on this possibility first.
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Old 08-19-2008, 06:41 PM   #2
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That ski pass door is pretty sketch. The latch that holds it shut isn't very durable and if you put a sub with any kind of magnet, it's going to be way too heavy for the plastic material and hinges.

Building the custom mount was really easy. Here's my set up and build (cut and pasted from many posts, so sorry if it gets jumbled.....) :

Ok, so after dinner I started working on this and thought I would start reporting back. All I did tonight was take out the oem sub/ski pass. Here are the steps so far:

1-With the top up on the car, fold up the compartment that holds the top in it so you have room to work in the trunk. (See your manual if you don't know how).
2-Open the swinging subwoofer door.
3-Unclip the wiring harness to disconnect the sub.
4-With the top still up, remove your armrest and unravel the ski bag into the back seat of the car so it's out of your way when you're in the trunk.
5-Back in the trunk, look through the tunnel through the skipass. Near the edge, about 1/2 an inch in, at the center of every side of the square, you'll see a tiny notch for a clip. Take a very thin tiny screwdriver and press in there to seperate the back 1/2 of the sub enclosure from the front half. Do this on all 4 sides. Yours might come apart at this point, but mine was still very stuck on the 4 corners, even though the centers would pry really far apart.
6-So to get it apart, I started the inside portion of the job. At this point, open the vert's top compartment back up and drop the top on the car so you can work in it.
7-First, pull off the flap of leather that keeps the armrest hole covered by simply lifting the long clip apart. It spreads around the bar it's connected to.
8-Remove the bottom cushion of the rear seat first by pushing on the front ledge (where your knee would be if you were sitting down). Push it backwards towards the trunk and then lift up. The seat will unclip from the bottom. Then lift it out of the rear clips and it comes right up as one big piece.
9-Undo the two 12mm nuts that hold the back portion of the rear seats in. They are located under where the bottom cushion was, about half way between each seat. They are holding down a metal tab that is connected to the backs.
10-Once those are off, simply lift and remove the back piece now.
11-Now there are 4 Torx bolts and a 14mm bolt that are revealed that hold in the ski pass from the front. If it's easier for you, you can remove the bag at this point by taking a small screwdriver and prying the thin plastic bars that wedge the bag edge in place. Remove all 4 and the bag is out. Pulling on the bag while you pry helps make this easier.
12-Once all 4 torx bolts and the 14mm bolt are removed, all that's left is to seperate the front 1/2 and the rear 1/2 of the ski pass. From the inside of the car looking back into the ski pass: You'll see the centers are pryed apart from our work earlier (especailly if you just left the little scred driver in the notch holding the edges apart) so now there's the corners that are still stuck. I took a gasket scraper (looks like a flat-head screwdriver where the flat head part has been smashed really thin and wide) and slid it into the gap. From inside the car, start on the TOP RIGHT corner, slide it as close to the corner as possible and pushed it all the way in... then take a hammer and lightly tap it.
13-The side tab that was holding extremely tight on the corner pops off and the whole thing splits open. The reason I say to start on the TOP RIGHT is because there is a gap in the plastic that was made there I think to stretch so that's the spot that will open up the easiest or won't snap.
14-Now both pieces come apart nicely and you can take the ski pass and stock sub door and ski bag all out of the car and you have a nice clean hole for the new sub.
15-I cleaned and conditioned the leather on the rear seats while they were out of the car.

Tomorrow, cut the MDF and mount the sub....
Sorry to be so long winded, but this would have been helpful to me so maybe it will help one of you.


Ok, box built and installed.
Sub installed.
Now to mount and wire up the amp!
Here's some pics for now...










So I started out by using cardboard, made the two side triangle pieces so that it fit flush with the face. Then I made a cut out for the face. Then I forgot that I had to subtract the thickness of the MDF so I had to trim the triangles. Then there was a lot of back and forth to get the triangles to fit. It was really tight. A lot of sanding. Then after it all fit, I decided to carpet any area that would either be seen and also any area that would touch the metal to try and minimixe squeaking.
Then I forgot that would just make it even tighter. So it took a little 'convincing' with a rubber mallet to get the triangles in place. Then I screwed the face on. Then the sub in place. I don't think that is ever going to come out without some serious work.
So the point that I traced the templates at was before sanding and carpeting, so after I put it all together, I was like those templates are usless.
I think I could dig them out if someone really wanted them, but if I were you, I'd just make them on your own with carboard too.
Wow, sorry so long, but figured I'd write it while I remember it....
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Old 08-19-2008, 06:52 PM   #3
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Oh, and here's the only pic I have inside the trunk. Ever since I've done the install, I've added a cover trim around the edge of the carpet around the sub, just to clean it up. All wires are now tucked too, so you can't see them... but this gives you an idea.

I mounted 2 pieces of wood to the metal back, carpet placed back over it, then mounted the amp to the wood pieces.

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Old 08-20-2008, 04:45 PM   #4
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yea I read that write up... the install looks great. I will probably have to go the custom route but I was hoping for an easy way to have a sub in the ski pass (to save trunk space) without actually losing the ski pass since I live in Colorado and will be skiing every week come winter. I might just have to build a tight fitting box to the ski pass that is quickly removable for access to the ski bag.
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Old 08-20-2008, 04:52 PM   #5
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my setup:

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Old 08-22-2008, 04:18 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeVert View Post
yea I read that write up... the install looks great. I will probably have to go the custom route but I was hoping for an easy way to have a sub in the ski pass (to save trunk space) without actually losing the ski pass since I live in Colorado and will be skiing every week come winter. I might just have to build a tight fitting box to the ski pass that is quickly removable for access to the ski bag.
So you're saying you want to keep the ski pass accessible so you can go skiing, correct? In that case, take a look at the stealth boxes they make. It's a molded box that fits right in the corner of your trunk, right over the battery compartment. That would be my suggestion.
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Old 09-28-2008, 02:25 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nishboo View Post
my setup:

Your armrest port is amazing.
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Old 10-22-2008, 06:52 PM   #8
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Update, I wanted a little more sound in the cabin, so I ported my armrest. It's hard to see in the pic, but the port has a speaker grill over it. Sounds much better now and I don't have to hassle with pulling out, storing, or putting back in the armrest!

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Old 01-06-2009, 11:32 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by JoeVert View Post
Has anyone tried to just directly replace the stock sub in the Convertibles ski pass and hook up an aftermarket amp? Something shallow like this may work...

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-fePWo7b...x?I=575P3SD410

I see all kinds of custom ski pass set-ups, which I may do myself but before busting out the saw and starting a new project or spending the cash on the BSW system, I figured I would check on this possibility first.
I don't have a vert but I was reading your DIY in regards to your original post about weather its possible to replace the stock amp for a aftermarket?

Or even if you could save the factory sub/amp and somehow add an additional sub and amp without having to go threw the troubles on rewirering it fully?

Obviously not an expert just kinda researching some options because this is probably the next thing I will do to my car over the winter...and help or suggestions would be greats guys your setups look awsome!!!
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Old 01-08-2009, 12:04 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Slick-Vic View Post
I don't have a vert but I was reading your DIY in regards to your original post about weather its possible to replace the stock amp for a aftermarket?

Or even if you could save the factory sub/amp and somehow add an additional sub and amp without having to go threw the troubles on rewirering it fully?

Obviously not an expert just kinda researching some options because this is probably the next thing I will do to my car over the winter...and help or suggestions would be greats guys your setups look awsome!!!
What I originally wanted to do was directly replace the ski pass sub with a shallow aftermarket sub and add an aftermarket amp. You don't have a vert so its not the same for you, but in the vert ski pass there is a 10" sub in a plastic housing that swings and locks open so you can slide skis through the center and into a ski bag that is attached behind the consol cover. for 70% of the year I don't need it but I do ski out here and with snow tires I can make it to the slopes so I actually use the thing.

Anyway I don't plan on saving anything factory except for the radio and wiring because I love the stock look. What I wanted out of the post is whether anyone ever attempted to just screw a new shallow 10" sub into the original plastic housing and replaced the amp with a new one. In hindsight, I may just attempt to build my own box to take up as little room in the trunk as possible or go with the stealth box over the battery. I did however get a few good install posts all gathered into this thread which is convenient!

For your own sub install just keep browsing this forum, there is a lot of good information.
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Old 01-15-2009, 11:24 AM   #11
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i want to do this!

Does all the metal interfear with the sub's magnet?
i know stupid question
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Old 01-26-2009, 04:46 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by TKC View Post
Update, I wanted a little more sound in the cabin, so I ported my armrest. It's hard to see in the pic, but the port has a speaker grill over it. Sounds much better now and I don't have to hassle with pulling out, storing, or putting back in the armrest!

I have a similar system in 01 M3 vert, down to S8L5 solobaric powered by MTX Thunder 4320 amp. I am now planning to power the front mid-woofers with the MTX 2 channel amp. THe other 2 channels drive the sub which is amazingly loud and clear for such a small enclosure and speaker size.
DO you have the color code for the amp/speaker wires? Thanks
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Old 01-26-2009, 04:54 PM   #13
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so what if i have a sedan that doesn't have folding seats?
but has the ski pass thing but there is a plate and its perforated?
can i take that piece out?
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Old 07-05-2009, 01:42 PM   #14
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would the set up be thesame for a sedan?
thanks
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Old 07-06-2009, 10:47 AM   #15
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We offer a solution for the e46 convertible. It is my personal favorite because with the rear armrest/cover installed it is 100% stealth. Installation is a snap and the output/performance/sound quality is exceptional!

http://www.bavariansoundwerks.com/pr...e-M3-3-Series/

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Old 07-07-2009, 10:37 PM   #16
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Halston, I have read elsewhere that you can get good base from the ib110 even with the armrest cover installed. Is this true? If so, how? Thanks.
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Old 07-09-2009, 12:16 PM   #17
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Unless you are going to strap a big amp to it, pick another sub; that sub is very inefficient and won't put out much with the stock amp. Pioneer make a new shallow series that's much more efficient/louder.
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Old 07-09-2009, 03:44 PM   #18
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Halston, I have read elsewhere that you can get good base from the ib110 even with the armrest cover installed. Is this true? If so, how? Thanks.

The armrest cover is not nearly air tight and it leaks, a lot. It is not 100% sealed and thus the bass/pressure/air movement is still there.

I run my convertible with the ib108 with the armrest cover installed almost 95% of the time. Pulling it in and out you cannot hear the difference

You can jam out with it installed or not installed! Let me know if you have ANY other questions!
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Old 12-05-2009, 08:10 PM   #19
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Just wanted to post this here for reference as well.

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Old 12-07-2009, 11:05 PM   #20
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Is the vert factory sub 8" or 10"? I pulled mine out and measured it. The cutout is 7", which indicates a 8" sub. The mount is really shallow, 2" at bottom sloping up to 3" at top. The shallowest aftermarket 8" subwoofer I found requires at least 2.8" clearance.
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